1. Home
  2. Plan Catalog

Modular Office - Narrow Drawer Base Unit

build your own office desk system drawer base
|save this plan
Difficulty
Intermediate
| Print this plan

Build your own office with our Modular Office Collection of plans!

In this woodworking plan, you can build a narrow double drawer base for that can support a desktop.  These roomy drawers can be used for storing files, extra supplies, crafts and more.  Our free step by step plans include full diagrams, shopping and cut lists.

Collections
Modular Office Collection
Dimensions
modular office build your own drawer base
Dimensions shown above, works with plans in our modular office collection

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 1 - 3/4" plywood half sheet (4x4) ripped into strips 15-1/2" wide x 4 feet long OR one strip, 15-1/2" wide x 8 feet long
  • 1/4" plywood, 48" x 24" (can use smaller scraps, you'll need two pieces 17" x 14")
  • 1 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 1x4 @ 4 feet long
  • 1 - 1x12 @ 3 feet long
  • 2 sets of 14" drawer slides (white euro slides recommended)
  • We recommend a Kreg Jig for joinery with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws, but you can also build with 2" self tapping wood screws
  • Iron on edge banding if you want to finish the front exposed plywood edges to match the wood grain.  You'll need a razor knife to trim excess off.  If you plan to paint, you can fill the plywood edges with wood filler and sand smooth.
Common Materials
3/4 inch finish nails
1 1/4 inch finish nails
Elmer's Wood Glue
Elmer's Wood Filler
120 grit sandpaper
Cut List

Cabinet

  • 2 - 3/4" plywood @ 15-1/2" x 29" - sides
  • 2 - 1x4 @ 18" - base trim
  • 4 - 1x2 @ 18" - top and middle trim
  • 1 - 3/4" plywood @ 15-1/2" x 19-1/2" - top

Drawers

  • 4 - 1x8 @ 14"
  • 4 - 1x8 @ 15-1/2"
  • 2 - 1/4" plywood @ 17" x 14"

 

 

 

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

TIP: If you want to finish the front edges of plywood with edge banding, do so now instead of later.  You only need to apply edge banding to the side front edges.

We recommend attaching the 1x boards to the plywood with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws, but you can also use 2" self tapping wood screws and glue.

Clamping down the board while you attach the plywood can help if you don't have an extra person to help hold things in place.

Step 2

Attach top with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue, all outside edges are flush.

Step 3

Build the drawer with either 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws or 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.

Attach bottoms with 3/4" brad nails and glue.

NOTE: You can build a deeper drawer by using 1x10s instead of 1x8s.  You can save some money and use 1x6s but the drawer sides won't be as tall.

Install drawer members of the drawer slides on the bottom of the drawers.  The drawer box should be inset 3/4" from the front edge of the cabinet.

Step 4

Install cabinet members of the drawer slides inside the cabinet.

Step 5

Test drawer slide fit.  If you need to adjust, now is the time.  Make sure everything slides smoothly and easily.

Step 6

Position 1x12 on front of the drawer.  The cabinet should be setting upright (Do NOT lay on back to attach).

Attach with a few 1-1/4" brad nails from front avoiding areas where you may add drawer hardware.

Remove drawer and add 1-1/4" screws from back to further attach.

Step 7

Add side trim with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.

Step 8

Measure and cut to fit the front trim as it may vary slightly on final step and you want this piece to look nice.

Attach with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.

Project Type
Desk, Desk Systems and Project Table Plans
Room
Storage Solutions
Craftroom
office
Style
Farmhouse Furniture

Comments

Karla (not verified)

Thu, 02/25/2010 - 09:23

You are most correct, Ana. Details, details, details... :) I can't wait for spring so I can start building...no garage, in Alaska...so I must wait. :(

brandi (not verified)

Thu, 02/25/2010 - 09:41

Ana, what would I need to do to make those drawers capable of holding files? Is there hardware that can be purchased and installed?

tawna (not verified)

Thu, 02/25/2010 - 10:02

I am in total agreement that the hardware can make an item. (i LOVE your site, btw...)

question: has anyone had any luck finding hardware like the beloved PB's? I LOVE the hinged pulls and the label holders...

There are so many of us out there building and itching to build using your fabulous plans- and the hardware is KEY to top it off! Is there anyway of creating a page/section where viewers can post pics of their hardware as well as where they found it?

THANK YOU THANK YOU for all your work!!

Yolanda (not verified)

Thu, 02/25/2010 - 12:19

Re: drawer pulls

I love working my google muscle to find things, but I found it VERY hard to locate a high-polished nickel drop pull like the Pottery Barn ones. But here are a few possibilities for people who are looking. I used the search terms "bail pull” and “drop pull”.

Satin Chrome Cabinet pull—
http://www.rensup.com/Cabinet-Pulls/97189.htm

Classic Hardware Card Holder Pull—
http://www.decorisland.com/product/classic-hardware/100289-03/classic-h…

Mission Style Drop Pull — http://www.nextag.com/Avante-Hardware-62076AB-Antique-524748138/prices-…

Hardware Resources Matte Black Pull—
http://www.decorglamour.com/hardware-resources-r1011mb.html

Rae (not verified)

Thu, 02/25/2010 - 12:21

I'm mistaken, I think a minor error in math on the shopping list. The shopping list says 26" of a 1x16 but the cut list says 2 - 1x16 and cut them into 13.5" pieces. that's 27" inches of 1x16 (13.5 x 2).

Love this collection, that will probably be my 2nd project once I make my bunk beds :) Thanks!

Sona Jacob (not verified)

Thu, 02/25/2010 - 19:13

HI!

Very neat!!

What software do you use to create the initial view? Of all the units put together?

Sona

Debbee (not verified)

Wed, 03/03/2010 - 15:21

Hi All,
I can help with all of these questions regarding an excellent source for hardware in one address: www.leevalleytools.com!
Lee Valley Tools has been around for years, has a HUGE variety of different styles (and types) of hardware: drawer slides, knobs, pulls, hinges..., plus they also have all kinds of Wood Working & Gardening tools and toys. It's my absolute favourite place to shop; virtually or in person.
Enjoy, Deb

Debbee (not verified)

Wed, 03/03/2010 - 16:01

Hello Ana,
I found you through Michaela's link from "The Gardener's Eden" and boy am I excited about it! This is a great idea. Thanks so much for showing everyone just what they can accomplish. DIY never looked so good!

Regarding high end hardware sourcing: I believe I just may have THE answer to all of your questions: www.leevalleytools.com!

Lee Valley Tools has been around for years, has a huge variety of styles and types of cabinetry hardware: handles, pulls, slides, hinges, etc.
They also carry (and design) tons of wood working and gardening tools and toys and give customer satisfaction like nobody's business.

It's my absolute favourite place to shop - virtually or in person...

Hope this helps, Deb

Jezeriah Cook (not verified)

Wed, 11/17/2010 - 05:38

I have a question if someone could please help me! It seems that the bottom of the drawer is supposed to be 16" x 13.5". However the back of the drawer is only 15.5" in width. How does this line up with the width (16") of the bottom? It seems like I either need to make the bottom narrower or the back wider. I'm not sure which one I should do to ensure that the drawer still fits in the cabinet.

I appreciate any ideas!

Jezeriah

Ana White (not verified)

Wed, 11/17/2010 - 09:27

Jezeriah, you have to leave 1/2" on each side for the drawer slides, but you want the drawer face to cover the drawer slides. I would purchase the slides and read the clearance on them before building the drawer. Hope this helps. Ana

Mary (not verified)

Wed, 11/24/2010 - 12:21

Hey everyone!

I found hardware almost EXACTLY like the PB version. It is galvanized, but you could spray it if you want it shiny. It is the exact same style as PB uses on their desk. Believe it or not, they are cheap! $2.79. Made my National. I found mine at an Ace Hardware, in the section with utilitarian hinges and pulls like you would use on a farm. NOT in the cabinet isle.

I hope this helps. I built the Bedford desk before I knew of Ana's site. This is fantastic! I can't wait to see what else I can make...without having to draw up the plans myself this time! ;o)

If you need specifics on the hardware, feel free to email me. [email protected]

Mary

eoren1 (not verified)

Sun, 02/20/2011 - 04:26

Ana-
Thanks for the plans! I'm planning on starting this next weekend. I did notice that, on the Open File Base Unit plans, the height of the top and bottom drawers seem to differ. The plans for the drawer (using 1x12) would work for the bottom; but not the top (it measures 13 1/4 on the plans).
Also, I was at PB yesterday and saw this desk with the two file cabinet drawers on one side and three drawers on the other. Any chance of adding plans to mod the CPU base so that it has two narrow and one deeper drawer?
Thanks again
E

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Question

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish.  I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal.  Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners.  But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade.  This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts.  I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint.  There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive.  We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethaned, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.  

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project.  Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture!  But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work.  If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, it can last decades. I have DIY pieces over 20 years old! The beauty of DIY is you can always repaint, refinish, or repair it as needed.

Care & Maintenance

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it looks worn, a light sand and touch-up paint or stain can bring it right back to life.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!