Rustic Parsons Farmhouse Table

rustic 4x4 parsons table
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This dining table inspired by Parsons style tables features a solid, 4x4 legs, with the end grain exposed on the top.  This is a free step by step plan, with diagrams, shopping and cut list.

Photo Credit: AMJOY37 

 

Similar Style Table with 1x Top

I loved this design so much, I did a similar build with a 1x top.  You can check out those plans here.

Parsons dining table

Dimensions
dimensions of table as shown
Dimensions are shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 1- 10′ long 4×4 Post, cut into 29 7/8″ pieces
  • 10 – 2×4, 8 foot or stud length
  • 4 – 2×2 @ 8 foot long
  • 1 – 2×3 @ 6 foot long
  • 2 1/2″ self tapping wood screws
  • 3″ self tapping wood screws
  • Wood Glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 4×4 Post @ 29 7/8″ (Legs)
  • 6 – 2×2 @ 30″ (Under Table Joists)
  • 8 – 2×4 @ 65″ (Tabletop Boards)
  • 2 – 2×4 @ 58″ (Tabletop Side Boards)
  • 2 – 2×3 @ 28″ (End Joists – you could use 2x2s here if you cannot find 2x3s)
  • 2 – 2×2 @ 58″ (Side Aprons)
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Power Sander
Level
Drill Bit Set

Instructions

Step 1

Matching Bench Plans

The matching bench can be built using the same methods.  Here are the plans for it.

Step 2

Tabletop

If you have a Pocket Hole Jig, you will want to build your tabletop first (all 10 tabletop boards) with 1-1/2" pocket holes drilled every 8-12" and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws, and then add the supports.

Otherwise, you can screw through the supports into the underside of the tabletop boards, minimizing the gaps between the tabletop boards as you go. Use 2 1/2″ screws and glue.

For those of you looking for that super smooth tabletop – you could run your 2x4s through a table saw and trim off any rounded edges first but beware that this will change the dimensions of your support boards. I did not run mine through a tablesaw, and think that’s what a farm table is all about – being a little rustic and obviously made of real boards. Predrill all holes.

Step 3

Top Ends

Add the top ends as shown above. Minimize the gap between the tabletop boards and predrill and screw down with 2 1/2″ screws and glue.

Step 4

Sides of Tabletop

Now add the side aprons by screwing to both the tabletop end boards and the joists. Use glue and 2 1/2″ screws. Predrill all holes.

Step 5

Attach the 2x2 supports to the undersides as shown.

Step 6

There should be no exposed holes visible on the outside of the table. I simply sanded my table with 120 grit sandpaper and vacuumed clean. Make sure you stain or seal your table to keep the wood from accepting food or other unwanted stains.

Comments

George from Boston (not verified)

Sat, 01/05/2013 - 18:33

Hi Ana, beautiful table and an incredibly handy site, thanks for sharing! I'm looking to build this table as on of my 1st projects. Could you provide some details on how you did the bead board on the ends of the table top?

Kind regards,
George

Dave8293

Mon, 09/30/2013 - 04:23

This is site GREAT. I'm psyched to build a table, I just can't figure out where the pocket holes go(!). Can anyone help? Looking at the big ur table I can see that the joists need to be attached to the table top boards and that the legs attach to the top. Just not sure how using kreg jig pocket holes.

Thanks so much!!

[email protected]

Sun, 08/09/2020 - 20:00

Great table and project! Struggling with fastening the 4x4s if there are any better pictures or techniques to help? Table top looks great, legs not so much. HELP...

Doug

[email protected]

Sun, 08/09/2020 - 20:00

Great table and project! Struggling with fastening the 4x4s if there are any better pictures or techniques to help? Table top looks great, legs not so much. HELP...

Doug

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!