Simple Outdoor Dining Table

Submitted by Ana White on Tue, 05/05/2020 - 14:03
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Build your own outdoor table!  We love the simple styling and clean lines of this outdoor table. This simple plan requires no special tools and is beginner friendly!  Build and enjoy this weekend!  Free plans by

diy outdoor dining table

Built and photographed by Mr Thompson

This modern style outdoor table is easy to build.  The matching bench plans are available here.

This plan has been updated.  The old plans are still available here.

simple modern outdoor dining table plans
Overall Dimensions are shown above.


Shopping List
  • 4 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long (cut longest boards first)
  • 5 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 100 - 1-1/4" to 2" long - self tapping exterior screws (look for star bit ones)
  • 25 - 2-1/2" long self tapping exterior screws
Cut List

3 - 2x4 @ 56-1/2" - frame 

2 - 2x4 @ 28-3/4" - frame ends

4 - 2x4 @ 29-1/4" - legs

15 - 1x4 @ 31-3/4" - tabletop boards

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Miter Saw
Power Sander


Step 1

Build the frame of the table with the longer screws, two screws per joint.

Adjust for square by taking opposite diagonal measurements and adjusting until the opposite diagonals match.

Step 2

Attach legs to the frame (will be easiest upside down).  Multiple screws at an angle into the legs will be stronger than screws straight on.

Step 3

Clamp a straight edge to the outside of the table and lay out the tabletop boards with a 1/2" gap in between.  Screw down with the shorter screws.

For the end boards, screw to the end of the frame too - this will add considerable strength to your table.


Joe C (not verified)

Fri, 08/17/2012 - 06:37

Hi Jody,

I did not screw from the top, my handyman suggested against that and I'm glad he did. I screwed in from the bottom. I did not buy a Kreg jig either. All the kreg does is helps you angle your drill precisely. I chopped a couple of little blocks and built my own jig. Just something to hold the angle consistent - but halfway thru it- I had the angle down pat and didnt need it. The Kreg is expensive, if you can afford it - go for it - it will make it easier. If you're crafty and handy you can work around it.

If I were to do it again I'd figure out how to do all that with the table upside down, perhaps building a brace of some sort - equally spacing out the top boards is challenging - i used some spacers - but after a few boards the fraction of an inch differences add up - so in the end I made lots of eyeball adjustments - but it all came out great.

So... some other things... when I was building this, I had it out on my back patio, with the plans and everything all laid out. I had a handyman at my house a few days doing other work. He offered to help me if I needed it on the patio (he was more interested in fun carpentry than hanging drywall). Anyhow - he told me one day that he was looking at the plans and disagreed with some things. For one, he suggested some corner braces, he pointed out that there was nothing to prevent twisting. So I very simply cut a couple of scrap pieces into small triangles and screwed them on the inside corners - it helped alot. The other thing I would do differently, is add a second board to each leg. The boards used for the legs are pretty thick - so there isnt much flex to the boards themselves, but since they are all fixed in one direction - another board perpendicular, (hard to describe) so the legs look like an L shaped piece of molding standing on its end.

Feel free to contact me with other questions.

Here is my finished table:


Sat, 12/14/2013 - 20:56

You only need 17 tabletop boards. These are about 3' each so you get 4 out of each 12' board. That means 4 of the boards will be cut into tabletop pieces and only one tabletop piece will come from the last 12' board. So you use the last 8' board to get one side apron and end apron and the 9' left over from the 5th 12' board to get the other side and end apron.

Guest (not verified)

Fri, 03/23/2012 - 15:30

What kind of wood should be used for this project? Would love to do it but need to price it out. What kind of wood did you use?

Lori N (not verified)

Fri, 03/30/2012 - 18:52

I love this table and have everything ready to begin construction. We are concerned that the legs are not going to be sturdy enough if someone were to lean on or push into it. The 2 x 4 leg only goes into a 3/4" thick board. We purchased 1/4" carriage bolts so that we can remove the legs for storage. Wondering what others might have done to add stability to the underside for the leg support.

Tonya Tuntevski (not verified)

Tue, 04/10/2012 - 10:49

I'm a newbie but this looks pretty straight forward. The only question I have is when you secure the boards on top to the supports and apron how does it work with 2" screws? If you're using a 1 x 4 I know it's really not a full 4" but still a 2" screw isn't going to go through the support and partial way through the table top board. Are you screwing them in on an angle?

Tsu Dho Nimh

Thu, 04/12/2012 - 08:46

They are fastened down through the table top into the crosswise supports and apron. I assume they are countersunk. The screws would be visible, or you could use wood filler.

Visible brass screws look good in outdoor furniture.

Jessica W (not verified)

Thu, 04/12/2012 - 17:08

Use a Kreg Jig for better stability and to hide those screws!

Jessica Renee (not verified)

Tue, 05/29/2012 - 12:01

A 1x4 is typically 3/4" thick. So, once you get the screw (put in straight down/square) through the table top board you'll have another 1 1/4" that will secure the board into the support/apron.

If you aren't using a Kreg Jig, you'd be screwing from the top of the table down and not from the underside. I think that's where you might be confused, too.

Jessica W (not verified)

Thu, 04/12/2012 - 17:09

I think you use the Kreg Jig for better stability and to hide those screws. I didn't know what it was before finding this blog, but it looks like a great tool!

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