Wood Tilt Out Trash or Recycling Cabinet

Submitted by Ana White on Thu, 04/28/2011 - 23:10
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About Project

Solid wood tilt out trash cabinet or recycling cabinet. Easy to build, fully framed, open back, fits standard trash cans.

I ran into a friend of mine the other day, and after the normal how are yous, she looked at me straight, and said, "Ana, HOW are you?" 

 "I'm great . . . what do you mean?" I asked. 
 And she said, "I read your blog, and I've noticed that you haven't been posting as often, and was just wondering if everything is okay with you." 
 I was quite touched that my friend took her time to read my blog faithfully enough to know that I have not been posting six . . . sometimes seven . . . days a week, and even more touched that she would stop me to make sure everything is okay. 
That evening when I was putting hinges on this very trash bin cabinet, I thought about our conversation in the condiment aisle. Is something wrong? 
As I closed the door on this trash bin for the first time, and stood back and inspected the finished project, I got goosebumps all over. 
No, nothing's wrong, because even after all these years and hundreds of pieces of furniture built, I still get goosebumps over a completed project. My passion for what I do is very much alive and well. 
But you see, a few months back when our site was crashing all the time, I got a few quotes from web design companies and I just could not afford to spend $20,000 on a website, and wait three months for the work to be done.

But I knew that there was $20,000 of work to be done on the site. 

So I sat my family down for a business meeting. I estimated that for the next three weeks, I would need to work long long long hours, and I would need the help of my husband and daughter to make this happen. Because I decided to take on the job of not just building a new site for our plans, but also learning how to build a website, and migrating hundreds of posts and plans.
And I made a deal with my preschool daughter. I promised her after I finished the new website, I would spend less time in my office on the computer, and more time with her. 
Well, the website is done, and she's holding me to our deal. 
I want to be doing what I'm doing for many many years. But in order to keep the goosebumps coming, I've got to find balance, to remember the reason I build - to make a better life for my family.

So I've set more modest goals, to post when I can, to not stress about posting when I cannot. I hope you understand, and I thank those of you who would stop me in the condiment aisle if you lived in our tiny town in Alaska.

All is perhaps better than ever.
Dimensions shown above. Fits trash can less than 16" wide x 22" high x 12" deep overall.


Shopping List

2 - 1x12 @ 6 feet long
1 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
2 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
Narrow Hinges (the cheapo kind with flat headed screws)
Knob or Pull

Common Materials
2 inch screws
1 1/4 inch finish nails
2 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
wood conditioner
paint brush
Cut List

2 - 1x12 @ 29 1/4"
1 - 1x12 @ 19"
1 - 1x12 @ 17 1/2"
2 - 1x3 @ 19"
3 - 1x2 @ 19"
2 - 1x2 @ 26" (Back)
2 - 1x2 @ 25 1/4" (Front)

Door Slab overall 1/4" less than opening
1 - 1x12 @ 12" cut in half diagonally
1 - 1x12 the width of the door (approximately 15 3/4")

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!


Step 1

Use either a Kreg Jig or 2" screws or finish nails to build your box as shown above. The bottom shelf is 2 1/2" from the bottom, at the top. So leave 1 3/4" gap underneath the bottom shelf. Check for square.

Step 2

Once your box is done, choose the less attractive side and attach trim as shown above. I used 1 1/4" finish nails and glue.

Step 3

Now the sides on the back. You can also choose to cover the back in 1/4" plywood, but I personally wanted an easy means of both changing trash bags and cleaning the cabinet out. So my trash bin is actually open on the back.

Step 4

Now the front. I like to cut footers out in place because you don't have to worry about clamping it down or anything like that. Nail down and then mark as shown in the diagram (you can click images for a larger view) and cut out with a jigsaw.

Step 5

Step 6

And the front. Notice that the top has a 3/4" gap. This is good.

Step 7

Finally the front edge. Nail and glue in place. This completes the cabinet construction.

Step 8

I used a new technique to build a raised panel door for this project! But I'd like to get that content to you in the form of video, so please be patient - will get that tutorial posted in the next day or so.

You should always build your doors to fit your openings - especially for inset doors. For inset doors, I like to leave an 1/8" gap around all sides of the door, so that means you need to make the door overall 1/4" less wide and 1/4" less tall than the opening.

You can use other methods to build the door - a full slab for a modern look or beadboard on a 1x3 frame for a cottage look.

Build the base as shown above, securing to the door.

Step 9

And then just hinge the door to the cabinet. For our tilt out trash cabinet/recycle center, we didn't even have to worry about a magnetic catch - the weight of the tilt out base keeps everything closed nicely.

However, you may need to install either hardware or a chain to keep the tilt out door from opening all the way and bruising your toes :)

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.