Farmhouse Bedside Table

Submitted by Ana White on Thu, 06/20/2019 - 13:04
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A bedside table to match our Farmhouse Beds. Features one large bottom shelf and one large drawer built with no drawer slides.  Free step by step plans with diagrams created by Ana White.

white distressed farmhouse nightand

Reader submitted brag post by  PEACHES76 

farmhouse nighstand bedside table dimensions
Dimensions are shown above.


Shopping List

1 – 1×12 @ 6 feet long

2 – 1×6 @ 8 feet long

4 – 2×2 @ 8 feet long

2 – 1×2 @ 8 feet long

1/4″ plywood scrap, at least 24″ x 8″ (minimum, ideally 26″ x 8 1/2″)

2 1/2″ Screws or Pocket Hole Screws

1 1/4″ Finish nails or Screws

Wood Glue, wood filler and finishing supplies

2 Knobs

Cut List

2 – 1×12 @ 8 3/4″ (Sides)

2 – 1×2 @ 11 1/2″ (Side Trim – needs to be width of your 1x12s)

4 – 2×2 @ 26 1/4″ (Legs)

2 – 2×2 @ 11 1/2″ (Side Stretchers, same width as your 1x12s)

6 – 2×2 @ 23″ (Front/Back Trim)

1 – 1/4″ Plywood or paneling or other sheet goods @ 26″ x 8 1/2″ (back, optional)

3 – 1×2 @ 11 1/2″ (Top Supports)

3 – 1×6 @ 28″ (Top)

2 – 1×6 @ 22 3/4″ (Front and Back of Drawer)

2 – 1×6 @ 11 1/2″ (Width of 1×12 – Sides of Drawers)

1 – 1×12 @ 21 1/4″ (Bottom of drawer)

1 – 1×12 @ 26″ (Bottom Shelf)

2 – 1×2 @ 23″ (Bottom Shelf Trim)

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Circular Saw
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set


Step 1

Sides Build the sides by screwing or nailing from the insides into the back sides of the 1×2 trim, as shown above. Remember that the 1x2s are on the outside, so hide your fasteners on the back side. Use glue. Make sure trim is flush on top and ends with the 1×12. You will need to build two of these.

Step 2

Legs Next add the legs to the project as shown above. Predrill holes and use glue and 2 1/2″ screws. Finish with the bottom stretcher. You will need to do this on both sides.

Step 3

Front/Back Trim Join the two side pieces with the front and back trim as shown above. Use 2 1/2″ screws and glue.

Step 4

Back This could even be a stiff cardboard or hardboard if that’s what you have on hand. Try asking at your hardware store for a scrap piece of plywood or a damaged sheet to save extra money. Tack on with either 1 1/4″ finish nails or screws and glue.

Step 5

Step 6

Top The top needs to overhang the base by 1″ on all sides. If you have a pocket hole system, build your top, then screw the base to the top through the supports. Otherwise, screw the supports to the top, starting with the middle top board, and minimizing gaps between the boards as you screw the outer boards to the supports.

Step 7

Drawer Build your drawer as shown above. Use screws and glue. The bottom is inset, with all sides screwed into the bottom. The front is merely false cuts made with a circular saw with the saw blade set at 1/8″.

Step 8

Drawer Slides What I would start with is screwing the drawer slides in place, flush with the bottom of the sides. Then fit the drawer in and unscrew the drawer slide and adjust until the gap around the top and sides is even and the drawer slides in and out nicely.

Step 9

Front Trim Attach the front trim to the legs as shown above, leaving an even gap on the underside of the drawer.

Step 10

Bottom Shelf You can lay the bottom shelf on the side stretchers, or you can screw to the legs as shown above.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
For a stained finish, be very careful to not let glue dry on any exposed seams or areas. Sand and stain, followed with wood filler that matches the stain, followed with a light sanding, a second coat of stain, and a clear top coat.



Sun, 05/08/2011 - 19:53

Hi, everyone! I just finished building this, but since I don't have a digital camera (and the table isn't painted yet, anyway), maybe posting some tips is a way I can help before attempting to get a photo somehow! :)

- To figure out the gap for the bottom of the drawer (i.e., where to install the drawer sliders), I measured what space there was taller than the drawer, then divided it in two, then drew pencil lines to mark this measurement. It was really easy, and I didn't have to adjust the drawer slides once!

- The plan calls for "6 – 2×2 @ 23″ (Front/Back Trim)," but I could only find five in the instructions.

- At least with the table I ended up with, there's no "stop" in the back for the drawer--in fact, it can slide in almost 2" more than it should. Because of this, though, it's almost impossible *not* to make a "flush" drawer. Hooray!

- My shelf ended up being a tad short. If I had to do this all over again, I would have had the "big box store" cut it slightly longer, and then belt-sanded it down after it was installed. Part of the problem may have been that I tried something new for the legs--and hope to be able to share it soon!

- The only good 2 x 2s I could find were over $5 each in 3' lengths! I used some at first, but after a while, ended up making my own, by laminating together two 1 x 2s. This worked really well, and I liked the widths better than the "quality" 2 x 2s, which were not really square.

- I glued the three table pieces together (along their sides) before putting them on. Just a bit of hand sanding and belt sanding helped clean things up.

- Becky V., "inset" means that the drawer bottom is flat on the ground, with the other pieces attached to its sides rather than its top.

- I made this the "old-fashioned" way--plain old counter-sunk screws. You'll be left with painter-quality furniture, because so much obvious patching will be needed.

- Like member jsle_bel, I also chose to go with just one center pull (a knob). It creates a whole different look! You can also dress up the drawer--I added moulding to match another piece of furniture made from Ana White plans.

Thanks so much for sharing this plan and your talent, Ana!

Guest (not verified)

Sat, 06/04/2011 - 18:27

Thank You, Ana for the plans for the Farmhouse Bedside Table. Hubby built one for me for my birthday and I absolutely *love* it! (I've asked for the Farmhouse Bed for Christmas :) I have quite the honey-do list for things I'd love to have... maybe he will offer to teach me to use the tools and I could create something myself! Thanks again!


Fri, 12/16/2011 - 08:47

I love this! Im going be building two for my wife and i next week. Dear ana all i want for christmas is a plan for a farmhouse tallboy dresser from pottery barn? Please?


Sat, 12/17/2011 - 07:07

I love this! Im going be building two for my wife and i next week. Dear ana all i want for christmas is a plan for a farmhouse tallboy dresser from pottery barn? Please?

Guest (not verified)

Fri, 01/13/2012 - 18:56

I'm about to start working on a pair of these tables this weekend and I'm a little worried, I purchased my lumber from the big blue box store and all of it is just a bit smaller than it is suppose to be, 1x12 and just a fraction over 11" 1x6 just making 5 1/4, all the 1 by stuff somewhere between 1/2 and 3/4. I'm worried about how this will effect the outcome of the project but we'll see. On thing I learned already though is it's lumber yards for me from here on out.

Guest (not verified)

Sat, 01/14/2012 - 08:36

I love the look of this table and plan to make 2 smaller (less wide) versions along with a farmhouse bed for my wife for valentines day. With that said, I have also made the loft bed for my step daughter with desk/bookcase under it and she loves it. I painted that white. I would like to stain these pieces. I have never stained before.... You say sand, then stain, THEN wood fill? then of couse light sand and stain again... Whats the philosophy to not just wood fill before the FIRST coat of stain?

Like I said, new to this, but my step daughters bed turned out well and her mother and I got some really good quality time in building it, same with your floating shelves, love this site, keep up the good work!

Robert (not verified)

Sat, 08/18/2012 - 19:52

This is a great looking plan. It calls for quite a few 2x2's. The only stock pine in this dimension that I can find are furring strips, which are poor in quality. I've ripped 2x4's down to this size, and even starting with better material, the results still aren't suitable for furniture, IMO. I thought about gluing up 1x2 select pine, since that is what I'm using on the rest of the project . What do you use when the plan calls for for 2x2 pine?

Elizabeth K (not verified)

Mon, 09/17/2012 - 16:33

Hi there! This was my very first wood project and considering that, I don't think it turned out that bad. But I am very discouraged that my drawer gets stuck coming in and out. It's roughly about 1/8" at the top and bottom like the plans says but I think there is a little bit more room on the sides which causes this problem? What can I do to fix it? Today is a rainy day and it is almost impossible to not want to throw the thing across the room just trying to open it! Help!!! I don't think there is enough room to install a runner or anything. I've seen stuff about using a router to make grooves in the side of the drawer? Remember, this is my first project! Any advice would be appreciated!

In reply to by Elizabeth K (not verified)


Mon, 10/08/2012 - 12:08

Hi Elizabeth,

Is your drawer perfectly square? That could be causing your problems. Easiest way to measure for square is to measure diagonally corner to corner. Your 2 corner to corner measurements should be exactly the same. If not, you will need to unscrew and and adjust your drawer until they are.

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