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Tryde Console Table

diy console table plans
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Difficulty
Intermediate
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Build your own rustic console table!  This beautiful solid wood table is made using pine lumber, so it's full of texture and made with soft, less expensive wood.  

This is a DIY project plan with step by step diagrams, shopping and cut list - everything you need to build your own console table!

RELATED: Build the matching coffee table and end table with free plans from Ana-White.com

Collections
Tryed Rustic Accent Table Collection

 

Reader submitted photo by METSFAN94

Dimensions
tryde console table dimensions
48" x 16-1/2" x 30"

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 1 - 4x4 @ 10 feet long
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 12 feet long (can cut into a 4 foot and 8 foot piece for transport)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 10 feet long
  • 2-1/2" pocket hole screws (about 50)
  • 120 grit sandpaper
  • wood glue
  • wood stain and top coat
  • right angle drill
Cut List

 

  • 2 – 2×4 @ 16-1/2″ (Breadboard Ends) (You may wish to measure and cut these to get a perfect fit as you build) 
  • 3 – 2×6 @ 41″ (Tabletop)
  • 4 – 4×4 Posts @ 28 1/2” (Legs) 
  • 6 – 2×4 @ 8-1/2″ (End Aprons and Stretcher) 
  • 2 – 2×4 @ 38″ (Side Aprons)
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 38-1/2" (Stretcher)

 

 

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Kreg Jig
Drill
Miter Saw
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

Prepare the tabletop boards by cutting and then drilling a 1-1/2" pocket hole on each end as shown.

Then on two of the 2x6 boards, drill 1-1/2" pocket holes along one long edge.

Attach with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws and glue.

 

Step 2

Measure and cut the 2x4 breadboard ends.

Attach the 2x6 center panel to the 2x4 breadboard ends with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Prepare two of the 2x4 @ 8-1/2" long by drilling 1-1/2" pocket holes on each end, and then 1-1/2" pocket holes upwards for attaching the tabletop in later steps.

Prepare two more of the 2x4 @ 8-1/2" long by drilling 1-1/2" pocket holes on each end (to be used at the bottom stretcher)

Build two leg sets by attaching the short 2x4 pieces in between with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws.  

Step 4

Prepare the two side aprons with 1-1/2" pocket holes on each end, and also facing upward for attaching the tabletop in later steps.

Attach the two leg sets with the side aprons using 2-1/2" pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Attach the base to the underside of the tabletop through the predrilled pocket holes in the aprons with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws.

Step 6

Build the stretcher with 2-1/2" screws - you can use pocket hole screws, just predrill so the head of the screw is sunken below the surface of the wood.

Step 7

Place the stretcher inside the legs and attach with a couple of 2-1/2" screws (or can use 2" nails to hide better)

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Sand the entire project with 120 grit sandpaper.
Remove all sanding residue.
Finish Used
Apply wood stain in the direction of the wood grain.
When dry, add a clear poly top coat.
Project Type
Console Table Plans
Room
living room
Style
Farmhouse Furniture

Comments

lanisanford (not verified)

Mon, 01/04/2010 - 07:56

oooh Thanks for this one! I don't need a dining table OR a coffee table but I am going to make an island that looks like this for my kitchen. Being a tiny kitchen I will have to make it bigger than the console table but smaller than the dining table :D I am going to put two shelves in I think...

JamesandKelsey (not verified)

Mon, 01/04/2010 - 09:32

My father and I just finished building this table! Your tutorial made it incredibly easy, and neither of us are carpenters so that`s saying something!!

I`m waiting for the finish to dry and then I`ll be sending pictures your way = D

-k

Melissa E (not verified)

Mon, 01/04/2010 - 18:58

OHHHHH yea! I'm so excited you posted this!! :) I think we are going to go for it this weekend!!

Anonymous (not verified)

Tue, 01/05/2010 - 17:42

Love this table..have been looking to buy one exactly just like it but cost too much $. Thank you so much for your site. I am totally clueless about building but you seem to make it took like I could do it. Just wondering what kind of wood to use??

Ana White (not verified)

Thu, 01/07/2010 - 06:37

The cheapest and easiest way is to use stud grade lumber. It's already distressed. AND it's exactly what Pottery Barn uses for their pine colored table! I hope you take a second to look at the Beth's Hyde Coffee Table (http://knockoffwood.blogspot.com/2009/12/bragging-board.html ) and End Table (http://knockoffwood.blogspot.com/search/label/Bragging%20Board) - she used pine and it is beautiful.

Angela (not verified)

Sun, 01/10/2010 - 10:31

After looking through the plans you've done of benches for say a dining room table I think we're going to use the console table plan, shorten the legs and lengthen the top to make benches for our sorav dining table (world market). We got this table out of their dumpster last year. It took a year but we were finally able to get replacement legs and fix the damage to the table itself. This will totally save us the $500 for chairs and benches. Awesome!

The Faveros (not verified)

Mon, 01/11/2010 - 12:38

Me and my husband just made this as a house warming gift for my Aunt! I was so worried because she has such a beautiful home but it turned out so great- can't wait to paint it and post pictures!! It only cost us 35.00 to build but we already had the 4x4's left over from something else!!

Crazy Girl Blond (not verified)

Tue, 01/19/2010 - 06:47

I love this table and have plans to make it ASAP! I have one question. I was looking at the console table that Kelsey and her dad made (real simple console table) They added a shelf on the bottom. Can I do the same thing with this table? If so how do I do that?
Thanks for all you do! I can not wait to fill my house up with furniture!!!

Ana White (not verified)

Tue, 01/19/2010 - 08:32

to make a bottom shelf, you would essentially need to construct a second table top, much like you did for the top. Only this time, use 1x2s as the supports and aprons. I would extend the aprons so that they are flush with the legs, instead of inset.

Cover the top of the shelves in 1x4 boards. Copy the top by doing a "breadboard" end between the legs, and then fill in the remaining pices with 1x4s.

Rachel (not verified)

Mon, 02/15/2010 - 12:38

I've been working on the Hyde console table this weekend and wanted to share what i've found in doing it. (almost there--near the finish line!) One thing I noticed was that the cut list only calls for 2 side apron spacers, but you need 4 to put one on each leg. Not a major problem!

I think this makes for a good first project--definitely "doable," but I did have to "call for help" a few times. Looking forward to going out on my own for the next project (Farmhouse bed?) Pictures coming when its done! Thanks again, Ana!

Vanilla Comfort (not verified)

Sun, 03/07/2010 - 16:16

You can build one for me! Please?! Seriously though, I just found your blog and I want to thank you so much. I don't know if I will ever have the courage/time/money (yes, money, I'm that poor) to actually build anything, but it does make my pottery barn dreams seem a bit closer!

Lorilyn (not verified)

Thu, 03/18/2010 - 12:39

OH my goodness. I am so excited to try and build this during the weekend! I figure it can't go any worse then my first pajama sewing project did (Pockets ended up down at the knees!)

Dee (not verified)

Sun, 04/18/2010 - 11:14

We just finished this project & are so proud of ourselves. Thanks for this awesome plan. Will post pictures once we get it stained.

Tuli (not verified)

Tue, 04/20/2010 - 20:37

Are you all using green lumber, as in not kiln dried? I live in Oregon and no one locally has this kiln dried...

Carpentr-E (not verified)

Sun, 05/16/2010 - 12:59

Hi, thanks for sharing your wonderful plans! I want to make this console table, but I live in Atlanta and I'm having a super hard time finding a 4'x4' that is not pressure treated. I've tried the major DIY hardware stores, but no luck. Where did you find the 4'x4'?

BBFHOA (not verified)

Sun, 08/01/2010 - 11:23

Ana,

I just found your blog and am very inspired! I'm a beginning woodworker and thought all furniture was hard to build...until I found your plans!

One question - where do you find your 4x4 lumber? I've checked both HD and LHI and found that they carry only pressure treated 4x4s. Any suggestions for those of us in the piedmont area of NC?

Joy (not verified)

Sat, 08/21/2010 - 18:24

Ana (and all!)

Was wondering if I could use this as the base idea for a side table/radiator cover? They are SO expensive to buy or have custom made and little fingers are curious... so I want to get started now before the heat comes on late this fall...

I would have to take out the last stabilizing piece but could put something on the outside of the legs if needed. Would also probably use metal perforated sheets to fill the other areas...

Unless radiator cover plans are coming!

Joy (not verified)

Sat, 08/21/2010 - 18:25

Ana (and all!)
Could I modify this to a table/radiator cover?

Little fingers are curious and I need to get started soon so I am sure to be done by late fall when the heat comes on...

unless there are radiator cover plans coming soon...

Erin I (not verified)

Wed, 08/25/2010 - 18:13

BBFHOA - If you are close to Raleigh, NC, check out Capital City Lumber, right off 440 beltline. They have 4x4 untreated for about $8 for 8'.

Loralee (not verified)

Wed, 10/06/2010 - 04:48

Hi Ana,
Thanks for these awesome instructions! I was just wondering something-I noticed that the tables are longer in some of the pictures, and I'd like to make a table longer than 48"-which pieces do I need to change the cut length on in order to do that? I'm assuming it's the front and back aprons, tabletop pieces and the stretcher-am I correct?
I'm so excited to try this!!
thanks,
Loralee

Ashley Mjoen (not verified)

Sun, 11/14/2010 - 17:39

Here is out "Tryde" console table. We love it. We are now working on the side tables. We added L shaped brackets under the ends for extra support. C:\Users\Ashley\Pictures\Nov Dec 2010\IMG_0017

Lisa W (not verified)

Fri, 12/10/2010 - 17:18

Ana - I'm cutting the wood for this right now and wouldn't you need 4 of the side apron spacers labeled as B? Just want to make sure!

Joey Marcelo (not verified)

Mon, 12/13/2010 - 09:44

did my version of ana's design of the console table and might proud of the results!
did a dark stain of dark walnut to match my floors and staircare finish! thanks for the inspiration ana!

Guest (not verified)

Sat, 08/06/2011 - 17:38

Ana, do you have a how-to section on this site? I've looked for it, but can't find it.

Jen Orgill (not verified)

Wed, 02/01/2012 - 15:57

I love this table and especially love the finish. Can you tell me what finish you used on it? It is exactly what I am wanting to do a kitchen table in. Thanks!

Jaime_G (not verified)

Wed, 06/27/2012 - 08:46

Where can I buy the lumber for this. Does Homedepot sell this kind of wood? or do I need to find a specialized lumber store?

davidmac (not verified)

Wed, 06/27/2012 - 13:33

Yes, you can get it at home depot. Make sure you get the regular lumber and not the pressure treated kind.

JTF (not verified)

Thu, 08/30/2012 - 08:52

About to start building this but can't figure out how to attach the breadboard ends in step 6. It says to use the 4" screws into the leg, but as it sits in the picture the table is resting on the breadboard end with only 1.5 inch overlap and there does not appear to be a way to screw the two together Almost seems like it would need an L-bracket. Or do I turn it over and screw into the leg from the top?

Also, the materials list calls for a Kreg jig and 1 1/4 and 2 1/2 PH screws but I can't see where in the instructions they are used. Any help would be most appreciated. Thanks.

Kjm25bball

Fri, 03/04/2016 - 08:18

I'm buying Kreg jig to make this today but the plans don't make it clear where to drill the pocket holes?  Can someone help me? 

atbrunette

Mon, 02/20/2017 - 09:22

I want to build one like this without a crossbar at the bottom to allow small stools to tuck under. Can that be done?

marinaaamarie

Sun, 03/07/2021 - 17:38

Beautiful stain on that table! May I ask what the name of the stain is? It looks as though it would match our home furniture color and I'd love to try it!

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!