Farmhouse Bed (California King Size)

Submitted by Ana White on Thu, 06/20/2019 - 13:09
| Print this plan

The blog favorite Farmhouse Bed, now in California King! This bed plan is a must read, as the construction is a tad different to accommodate no 4x4 posts and an easier method of joining the siderails with the headboard. Special thanks to JME Blog for their marvelous photos!

blue farmhouse bed
white farmhouse bed
black farmhouse bed
farmhouse bed dimensions california king
80 1/2" x 91" x 57"


Shopping List

9 – 1×8 boards, 8′ Long

1 – 1×3 board, 8′ Long

2 – 2×6 board, 8′ Long or Stud Length (doesn’t matter)

13 – 2×4 boards, 8′ Long or Stud Length (doesn’t matter, you may need more or less depending on if you have a box spring or not)

3″ self tapping wood screws

2 1/2″ self tapping wood screws

2″ self tapping wood screws

1 1/4″ nails for a brad nailer

Common Materials
wood conditioner
paint brush
Cut List


  • 4 – 1×4 @ 72 1/2″ (Panel Trim)
  • 2 – 1×3 @ 30″ (Ends of the Panel)
  • 9 – 1×8 @ 30″ (Main boards in the Panel)
  • 2 – 2×4 @ 34 1/2″ (Inner Leg for Headboard)
  • 2 – 2×4 @ 54″ (Outer Leg for Headboard)
  • 1 – 2×4 @ 78 1/2″ (Top of Legs and Panel for Headboard)
  • 1 – 2×6 @ 80 1/2″ (Top of Headboard)
  • 2 – 2×4 @ 10″ (Bottom Leg Piece for Headboard)



  • 4 – 1×4 @ 72 1/2″ (Panel Trim)
  • 2 – 1×3 @ 15″ (Ends of Panel)
  • 9 – 1×8 @ 15″ (Main Boards in the Panel)
  • 4 – 2×4 @ 21″ (Legs)
  • 1 – 2×4 @ 78 1/2″ (Top of Legs and Panel for Headboard)
  • 1 – 1×6 @ 80 1/2″ (Top of Headboard)


Siderails and Frame

  • 2 – 2×10 @ 87 1/2″ (Siderails)
  • 2 – 2×4 @ 88 1/2″ (Side Cleats)
  • 8 – 2×4 @ 69 1/2″ (Joists, you can use less if you have a box spring, may need more if your mattress is flimsy or you choose not to add plywood to top)
  • Optional plywood on top of joists
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander


Step 1

Front of Headboard Panel. Lay out the panel pieces on a clean level surface. Take a measurement of the total length and cut your trim boards to this measurement (approximately 78 1/2″). Then fasten the trim pieces to the panel as shown above. Use the 1 1/4″ nails and glue. Attach from the back to hide your nail holes.

Step 2

Back of Headboard Panel. In the same manner as step 1, fasten the back trim pieces to the headboard. This is shown above. Use glue and 2″ nails. This will be the back of the headboard, as your nail holes are showing.

Step 3

Inner Leg. Predrill and countersink your screws, attaching the inner leg to the headboard panel as shown above. Use glue and the 3″ screws.

Step 4

Outer Leg. Fasten the outer leg to the inner leg, using the 3″ screws and glue. Again, use the countersink bit. Keep top and outside edges flush.

Step 5

Step 6

Bottom Leg Piece for Headboard. Use the 2″ screws and glue to attach the bottom leg piece. Countersink your screws. You may need to shorten or lengthen the bottom leg piece, depending on the thickness of your side rails. Take a measurement of your side rails before cutting this piece.

Step 7

Footboard. Except for the changes in the legs as shown above, the footboard will be assembled just like the headboard. The footboard leg pieces are identical in size and there is not bottom leg piece.

Step 8

Siderails and Frame. Begin by building the frame using 3″ screws and glue. The above joists are shown spaced every 12″. You may need to add more if you are not using a box spring (standard maximum slat spacings is 6″), and you could possibly get away with less if you have a good box spring. Remember, king beds often have 2 box springs.
After you have built the frame, attach the side rails to the frame. Keep the front edges flush. The bottom edge of the frame will overhang the siderails by 5/8″. Please note that you can adjust the height of the frame to suit your needs, higher for no boxspring, lower to accomodate a box spring.

Step 9

Attaching the siderails to the Headboard. You will only need a few screws on each side rail to attach the siderails to the frame because the bottom leg piece holds the weight. Predrill and countersink your screws, using 2 1/2″ screws. Do not use glue here.

Step 10

Attaching to the Footboard. Fasten the bottom frame joists directly to the footboard panel as shown here. Use the 2″ screws, but no glue.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill any visible nail holes with wood filler and sand and finish as desired.


SaraReno (not verified)

Mon, 03/01/2010 - 07:35

Buy the plates and then use them for backup and you get the best of both worlds. It's the same reason that once a week we eat out because I'm too tired to cook dinner. You've been a housewife for a few years but now you also have a second job on top of it and you can hardly be expected to do everything (none of us are really Super Woman, no matter how we try).

The modification for the 4x4s is really interesting. I have them available here but I may do it this way anyhow since the extra support under the side rails would be nice (my kids tend to jump on beds a lot).

Thanks again for another great plan!

lynnor (not verified)

Mon, 03/01/2010 - 09:06

Our cal king beds have always had extra legs/supports down the middle under the slats. Should those be added here, or not since the boards are not "flat" but on their side?

Cara M (not verified)

Mon, 03/01/2010 - 16:17

I think these are your best plans to date! The detail you have added since the first farmhouse bed post is incredible! I love your blog!!!!

Ana White (not verified)

Mon, 03/01/2010 - 16:34

Thank you Cara, and thanks for reading. I have noticed a big improvement also when I go back and edit plans myself, so thanks to all the readers for keeping me going and suggesting how I can improve.

Lynnor, I have thought the same as I was putting the plans together. My bed is a a regular king and spans more than the cali king and no center post and it's fine. I think the point where you will need to worry about the center post is when you use split box springs. You can easily add a center post by placing a 2x4 under the joists, running perpendicular down the center. Then add a "leg" made of a 2x4 from the center of the support to the floor. This should take care of any worries.

Hope this helps, Ana

Jen @ Sunshine… (not verified)

Mon, 03/01/2010 - 17:03

Ana, when a housewife is our only job (and it's a HUGE one) we know how much of our love we put into even washing a plate. I think that it's more about the love we think we aren't able to put into "here's your paper plate."

You're putting your love into other things than washing plates these days...Letting your child see you flourish as a businesswoman and artist. Letting your child see the joy you get from success. Letting your child know that it's okay to rearrange things in your life when you need to focus on something that is about to explode into blessings for the family.

By the darn plates, girl. Or buy a dog to do the first rinse cycle on the dishes before you toss them into the dishwasher for proper cleaning and sterilization. :)

Jessica (not verified)

Mon, 03/01/2010 - 20:47

Ana, You Rock!!!
I love this bed and am looking forward to making it. I love Julianne's modification on the foot board and was wondering if we could get the dimensions and such that she changed. Thank you so much for everything you do and thanks to your hubby for sharing you with us!

Heather - Doll… (not verified)

Mon, 03/01/2010 - 21:37

I have had that paper plate talk w/my husband too... I can't help it, I love my website. :)

Beth (not verified)

Thu, 03/04/2010 - 16:27

Hi Ana, in Ontario our King size mattress measures 76"(w) x 79.5"(l). What would the cuts be for the Farmhouse Bed?

Katherine Klegin (not verified)

Tue, 03/09/2010 - 09:04

Hey Ana,

My dad and I have begun building this bed and found out that you do not need [9] 1x8's. You only need 5. You should be able to get [3] 30" sections out of each 1x8 and (obviously) [6] 15" sections out of each board. Also, rather than having the two 1x3's on the end of the panel section, we found that simply adding 1 more 2x8 made it come out to 72.5" I will be posting my progress on my blog and will email you when I'm finished. Thanks so much for this plan!

Pink Little Ladies (not verified)

Thu, 03/11/2010 - 06:45

Is the bed put together so that if you needed to move you could take it apart or once its built is it one piece and unable to disassemble? I would like to make two twin beds for my girls but there is a possibility we may be moving in the next few months and would be sad if the beds couldn't come with us.

Free Plans Made Possible By Our Sponsors