Corner Hutch Plans for the Twin Storage Beds

Submitted by Ana White on Tue, 07/09/2019 - 11:07
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Shared room?  What about adding a corner hutch between beds?  It acts as a headboard for both beds and contain storage.  We've got you covered with the free plans below.

We also have plans for twin storage or captains beds here.

green twin beds with corner unit

 

OVERALL DIMENSIONS

Are shown above.  Remember that a twin bed runs about 75" long to fit the space.

 

ROOM MEASUREMENTS Ready to build it?  Go measure your room and make sure you've got 116" of space in two directions in a corner.  I could actually see a setup like this in a family room.  And somewhere, someone's gonna put a TV on top and use the corner unit as a footboard instead of a headboard.  I won't tell on you.

Dimensions
dimensions diagram for corner unit for beds
Dimensions for corner unit shown in diagram. Consider twin beds runs about 75″ long to fit the space

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 7 – 2×2, 8′ Long, Furring Strips
  • 2 – 32″ High x 40 1/2″ Long (or longer) Wainscoting Panels OR 1 sheet of 1/4″ plywood or MDF
  • 2 – 1×8 Boards, 8′ Length (Pine is cheapest)
  • 1 – sheet of 3/4″ plywood or MDF
  • Edge Banding (if you are using plywood and staining the bed)
  • Wood Filler
  • Wood Glue
Common Materials
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Cut List

CUT LIST FOR THE BOX

  • 4 – 2×2 @ 40 1/4″ (Tops and Bottoms Box Ends)
  • 4 – 2×2 @ 29″ (Legs for the Box Ends)
  • 6 – 2×2 @ 37 1/4″ (Supports)
  • 2 – 32″ High Wainscoting @ 40 1/2″ (Panels)

 

CUT LIST FOR THE TOP UNIT

  • 1 – 1×8 @ 40 1/2″ (End)
  • 2 – 1×8 @ 39 3/4″ (Long Dividers)
  • 1 – 1×8 @ 14 1/2″ (Short Divider)
  • 1 – 1×8 @ 24 1/2″ (Final Divider)
  • 1 -1×2 @ 24 1/2″ (Cleat for Support Lid, 1st one installed)
  • 1 – 1×2 @ 23 3/4″ (Cleat for Support Lid, 2nd one installed)
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Level
General Instructions

Work on a clean level surface with straight boards and check for square after each step. Always predrill and countersink every screw. If you are working with MDF, use Drywall screws and be sure to predrill the entire length of your screw. Use glue. Be safe and have fun.

Instructions

Step 1

BOX ENDS Build the box ends as shown above using 2″ screws and glue.

Step 2

SUPPORTS FOR THE BOX Add the box supports using 2″ screws and DO NOT GLUE. Make sure your project is square at this point. To relocate the bed, you can simply unscrew, disassemble, and then reassemble.

Step 3

WAINSCOTING Measure and cut your wainscoting to fit one side of the box. Then add the second piece. Attach with 1 1/4″ screws and DO NOT GLUE on all four edges. You want these pieces removeable so that you can move it in and out of a room. NOTE: If your doorways are larger than 32″ you can move this unit without disassembling, but just in case you move to a different home, I would still not glue this step.

Step 4

DIVIDERS Use 2″ screws and glue to build your dividers as shown above. Then add the 1×2 cleat (shown above in white) with 1 1/4″ screws and glue.

Step 5

Step 6

FINAL CLEAT Add the final cleat, using 1 1/4″ screws and glue. Then also attach from the outside of the project using 2″ screws and glue.

Step 7

BOTTOM Cut your bottom plywood and attach it to the bottom of your unit (cleats are on the top) as shown above. Use 2″ screws and glue. This is just like attaching a back to a bookcase.

Step 8

TOP Cut your top, as directed above. Attach only the white piece to the top of your project. The pink piece is removable for storage (might be scary in a teens room

Step 9

ASSEMBLY Attach from underneath the top unit to the base unit using 2″ screws. Don’t glue so that removal is easy to do. You may also wish at this point to drill holes in certain point to create a “Smart” storage unit. You could hide cords in the “secret compartment” and keep cell phone chargers, laptop cords, or cords for media units tucked away neatly.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
You can add trim to make the piece nicer, but just remember that the base will most likely be covered by pillows from the beds. Use wood filler to fill all holes. If you are staining, iron on edge banding to any exposed plywood edges. Sand starting with a coarse grade sandpaper and work your way up to fine. Prime or add wood conditioner (if desired for staining pine). Paint or stain. Seal if necessary.

Comments

Teresa Pomerantz (not verified)

Mon, 06/21/2010 - 03:07

That was a great story to wake up to today Ana. Thank you for featuring my girlies beds and all the nice compliments- but don't forget to take credit because I couldn't have done it without your plans! I love your site and really appreciate your hard work. I should mention this was my first but not last woodworking project- Thanks for the Inspiration!

Barbara (not verified)

Mon, 06/21/2010 - 06:27

If I could make one suggestion:

My friend growing up had beds like these (they were common in the "old days") but one slid under the middle piece so the room could be "bigger". I think if you could make one slide under, it would be a nice option!!

Guest (not verified)

Wed, 04/06/2011 - 05:20

... one sliding under the other. I was thinking, with the space limitations in my boys' room, I had better think of another way to make this happen, as i love this plan and layout. and then i read your post. that is an awesome idea.

MomBrose (not verified)

Mon, 06/21/2010 - 06:57

Do you think a piece of molding added to the top of the platform would help the mattress stay in place?? I would be concerned about it slipping off the slick surface. Those are so beautiful though!!

Sarah (not verified)

Mon, 06/21/2010 - 09:59

I love that you can have a little storage compartment in the corner that is hidden away. Good place to put a bunch of blankets and bedding!

Teresa Pomerantz (not verified)

Mon, 06/21/2010 - 16:07

MomBrose- the mattresses haven't slid at all, which surprised me with 2 active 3 year olds. It hasn't been a problem- but someone suggested putting the nonslip rug mats under them, if it becomes a problem, that is what I will do.

bec (not verified)

Mon, 06/21/2010 - 17:34

I love your blog! There's something great about women using powertools!

I just wanted to add my two cents. We just finished making the storage day bed and we love it! But it would be sooo much easier if it was built like Teresa's green bed. If we had made two long rows of cubbies with long strips of trim, instead of three horizontal sets with individual trim (that has to match the one next to it!) it would have save us oh so much time!

Anyway thanks so much for all the great plans, we love them!!

Adriane (not verified)

Mon, 06/28/2010 - 23:55

Careful with the non-slip mats. We used the foam ones from Wally World and they are permanently stuck to the bed! I tried to pull one up when we moved and gave up- the foam was just tearing off. I guess it's okay, since it's still doing it's job, but I kinda wish we hadn't opted for black on an oak colored bed. :)

Brett (not verified)

Tue, 06/29/2010 - 04:51

How hard would it be to make the other headboard for this bed? The one that's not a corner unit

http://www.pbteen.com/products/stuff-your-stuff-headboard-and-store-it-…

My 2 year old daughter loves to sit in bed and "read", and insists on having a pile of books in bed with her. I'd like to make her a bed that has some storage by her head so the books wouldn't constantly fall out.

Thanks. I'm hoping to start on those open toy boxes soon!