Cedar Planters with 2x2 Legs

easy to build cedar planter plans
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Using cedar fence pickets, you can make these beautiful planters for about $20 each!  Our plans include step-by-step diagrams, shopping and cut lists, and dozens of reader submitted photos and success stories. 

 We also have plans for a taller, more modern planter, a cedar ladder planter (also using cedar fence pickets!) and lots more planter projects here.

easy to build cedar planters

Cedar planters are so beautiful - you cannot replicate the natural texture and grain of real wood.  But cedar can be expensive.  Why not use cedar fence pickets (about $2 for 6 feet each) and build your own for a fraction of the cost?

This was a quick and easy project, and I absolutely love how it turned out! Every time I come home, I admire my planters.

 

Framed Top Modification

Many of our readers have modified this plan to have a mitered framed top, like this one below by Hillary Louise

beautiful reclaimed wood planter box made by a reader with yellow flowers

To do this modification, simply cut the 2x2 legs 22" long (instead of 23-3/4").  Attach the side panels flush to the tops of the legs in step 2.  

You'll need to add a 1x3, 8 feet long, to the shopping list.  Cut four 1x3 @ 21" longest point to longest point - both ends cut at 45 degrees, ends NOT parallel. Nail or screw to the top of the planter after you have completed building. 

 

Rectangle Cedar Planter

You can also easily alter the size of the planters up to double the width rectangle shape, without having to add additional legs, as done here.

rectangle shaped cedar planter with trellis, doubled in width from the plans

This is an easy modification - just add a couple more cedar fence pickets and 1x3s to your shopping list.  I recommend laying out the cedar fence pickets and measuring how long you need to cut your 1x3s (instead of just doubling the cut list dimensions) because cedar fence pickets can vary in width.

 

Cedar Fence Picket Planter Plans

The plans for the cedar fence picket planter are below.  Please share a photo if you build - we greatly appreciate brag posts.

 

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Cedar Planters with 2x2 Legs

Dimensions
dimensions diagram of cedar planter
Dimensions shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 2 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 3 - 5 1/2" wide x 72" long cedar fence pickets
  • 1 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 2 1/2" exterior pocket hole screws
  • 1 1/4" exterior screws or galvanized nails
  • exterior wood glue
Cut List
  • 10 - 1x3 @ 17"
  • 5 - 1x2 @ 17"
  • 4 - 2x2 @ 23 3/4"
  • 12 - cedar fence pickets @ 17 3/4" long (shortened by 1/4" from diagrams to allow for saw blade width and dog eared end)
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

Start by first building your four panels. I sized this plan to allow for an 1/8" gap between the cedar pickets as they will shrink/expand with moisture and let's just face it - the cedar fence pickets are not going to be perfect! I used 1 1/4" galvanized nails and exterior glue from the insides.

Step 2

On all four of your panels, drill 2 - 1 1/2" pocket holes on the inside, behind each 1x3 on the ends. This will put screws through the fence pickets, 1x3s and then into your legs. Join two of the panels to the legs as shown in diagram.

Step 3

And then add the remaining two panels to create your planters. Adjust for square.

Step 4

Now don't think that this whole planter needs to be filled with dirt!!! Unless you are planning on harvesting potatoes in there! I put my bottom 6" down from the top to keep the planter lighter and use less dirt. Start by attaching cleats to sides at desired height.

Step 5

Comments

Andrew Malizia (not verified)

Wed, 08/08/2012 - 13:07

Neat project Ana. These will tie in nicely with my short 30" cedar fence around my front porch I just built. I even have 16" cedar boards leftover from my cuts.

Error: Cutlist: 10 - 1x3 @ 17" (You've listed 1x8)

Thanks again!

Kaila (not verified)

Wed, 08/08/2012 - 13:16

...Cedar Fence Pickets don't seem to exist in my part of the country! I have a friend that works for Blue and he says they don't actually carry cedar in this region (central PA) in anything but pre-fab fence sections and corner posts. :-(

Guess I'll have to go the more expensive independent store cedar board route for my planters and raised beds.

Back Woods Woo…

Tue, 10/30/2012 - 22:08

I have a small problem. I have my 1/8" gap on all sides like the plans say, but as soon as I put my PH screws in the gap goes away. That even after I glued it and nailed it. So my gaps in the middle are no longer 1/8". But it still looks good even with the bigger gap, but I'll post some pictures as soon as I finish it.

Monique (not verified)

Sat, 12/15/2012 - 17:21

I absolutely love your website. I'm so excited to get started on a few of your plans. You're any inspiration. Is the budget or $20 the cost per planter?

Continued blessings,
Monique

mybartmart

Sun, 04/07/2013 - 13:15

Well for me the 1/8th of an inch over on each end didn't work when attaching the 2x2's it made them buckle a bit inward. I think next time I would just make it flush. They are very sturdy when done and look great in different finishes.

JavaJoe

Wed, 06/11/2014 - 14:29

I used the main plan for ideas, but opted to use 3.5 inch pickets instead of the 5.5's, which allowed for a smaller planter that wasn't as big. Also chose to miter 1x3s for the top which I think really finishes it off. Used cedar for everything, including the one bys. Sanded everything with a belt sander to 220 grit.

Assembled using a pneumatic staple gun from the backside, then finished with exterior wood screws so nothing would show.

For the finish, I used minwax golden pecan plus three coats of poly inside and out (much faster to treat all the boards first before cutting and assembling), to keep the rain out! Finished size was about 17x17. Tile spacers work great to keep the gaps even!

Thanks so much for the good idea... the wife loved it which is the most important thing (especially if you want to keep buying new tools LOL!!!)

Angel Rose

Sun, 06/15/2014 - 11:59

Made two of these. Love them, but the slats I put in the bottom rotten/molded quickly. What have others used to protect the wood at the bottom or are most people using a plastic inserts?

Mary Helen

Wed, 06/25/2014 - 13:35

I thought I would make one planter just to get me started and give me enough courage to move on to bigger things (like a farmers table). Well, I made the planter with no problem. It was pretty easy. My husband liked it so much he contracted me out to our church who in turn wanted 4 more planters for there new wooden deck. So, I made 5 planters for my churches new wooden deck. I am so proud of my work that everytime I go to church I tell someone new, Guess who made those planter? Duh! Me. Yep, I made them all by myself. Thanks Ana for the plans!!

LYoung26

Sun, 02/15/2015 - 17:01

These look great! I have a question though. On step one it says, "attach at bottom and top with 1 1/2 inch ph screws and 2 1/2 phs screws." There aren't 1 1/2 ph screws in the shopping list. The 2 1/2 Pocket hole screws are for the pocket holes right? And then we attach the cedar planks to the 1x3's from the inside with 1 1/4 pan head screws? Is that right?

Sue Hill

Wed, 04/22/2015 - 09:17

I just love all your projects using these pickets. I have tried all over CT to find them but no luck. I've been using pressure treated pickets 1x6x6' but would rather find the cedar. Anyone have a source?

bclute

Wed, 12/02/2015 - 19:23

I built these with pine and stained with steel wool and vinegar.  They turned out good, but I would like to use them outside.  Should I put a coating on them for protection (one that has a matte finish), or will they be ok?

 

Mark1115

Thu, 12/31/2015 - 14:35

An alternative to the 1x3 pine would be to rip a cedar picket in half.  As the cedar pickets are 5.5 inches wide, you wouldn't end up with 3 inches per board, you get something like 2.625 inches in width for each board. But I think the advantage is the cedar pieces will weather better than the pine.

 

For the verical slats, if each picket is 6 feet in length you should be able to get 4 boards per picket, each 18" in length - helpful to those people wanting to build a bigger box.  If wanting to conceal the dog ear, put the dog ear end on the bottom of the planter and it will be hidden from everyone except the gophers.

 

It may be easier to attach the cleats (step 4) prior to building and fastening the box on all four sides, the advantage being you can screw or nail the cleats while each side of the planter is on a flat surface, and then do the tilt-up.  If attaching the cleats after the box has been built, it creates a somewhat awkward angle for hammering or screwing in that you don't have a direct downward view on your fasteners while attaching the cleats.

 

 

BrandyK

Sun, 04/03/2016 - 16:51

This is my first project with pocket holes....and I have already messed it up during step 1. I attached the fence pieces to the 1 bys with your & 2 screws for each board at top & bottom (4 screws per board). I now do not have enough room for the pocket holes :(. I am hoping I can correct this by removing the screws that are in the way. I wanted to mention this to try to help another newbie. Ana, thanks for sharing so many free woodworking plans. I hope to learn from this one & try several more.

Wayne Oglesby

Sun, 05/22/2016 - 12:40

Am I reading the instructions attaching legs by drilling 1 1/2 pocket holes but use 2 1/2 screws? FWIW I nearly cut the end of my thumb off getting in hurry cutting legs 2 weeks ago. Surgery this week. Anxious to finish and build more. 

Wayne Oglesby

Seasonal And Holiday

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!