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Modern Farmhouse Bed Frame

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Submitted by Ana White on Fri, 08/09/2019 - 23:51
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Build your own wood bed frame!  This modern farmhouse style bed is easy to build with off the shelf materials and basic tools.  You'll love our step by step diagrams, shopping list and cut list for all standard mattress sizes, and lots of reader submitted photos.  Designed by Ana White.

Matching nightstand plans are here.

modern farmhouse wood bed frame
modern farmhouse bed plans

The right bed makes the room.  In a bedroom, the bed dominates the room, grounds it, and is the focal point.  All the other bedroom furniture simply compliments the bed.

So when it comes to designing a bedroom, I always start with the bed.  And it better be grand!

 

Why Build Your Own Bed?

But the problem is, a beautiful bed can be very expensive - as in thousands of dollars.  But the good news is beds are fairly easy to build, and for the size of the bed, astonishingly inexpensive.  Most beds we build (including this one) include a platform (so no need for a box spring) - saving you even more money.

You can save upwards of 90 PERCENT OFF when you build your own bed!

If saving money isn't incentive enough, consider being about to choose a custom finish, being able to customize the size, building a sturdier bed - there's lots of reasons to go DIY.  And let's not forget - a solid wood bed is so beautiful!

 

What Happened to the Original Farmhouse Bed?

We just moved into a new home, and our original DIY farmhouse bed wouldn't fit between the windows.

But I still wanted that "farmhouse" look - the square styling, the planked headboard, the beefy legs.  But maybe a little more modern.  

 

Modern Farmhouse Bed Design

Using off the shelf 2x4s, 2x6s, 4x4s and leftover tongue and groove from our house ceiling (you can also use 1x6s or other materials), we built this new, modern farmhouse bed.

modern farmhouse bed frame

We ran the planking horizontal this time, and traded the footboard and siderails in for a platform base.  The results are all that rustic charm, but in a simplified version that is just as sturdy and beautiful as the original.

modern farmhouse bedroom grey walls

This bed also ended up being easier to build and less expensive than the original farmhouse bed, thanks to the simplified design, less cuts and less joints, and less trim boards.

 

Matching Nightstands

This bed really made our room amazing when paired with our matching Modern Farmhouse Nightstands

modern farmhouse nightstand gray finish

You can find plans for the matching nightstands here.

 

 

Weathered Wood Finish

We kept the finish simple with Varathane Weathered Wood Accelerator - it ages the wood in minutes and creates a natural looking grey finish.

 

 

Video Tutorial of Modern Farmhouse Bed Build

We did a video on the build of this bed, do watch - lots of little tricks and tips -

 

Modern Farmhouse Bed Plans

The step by step plan follows, with diagrams and shopping lists and cut list.  For your convenience, the plans include everything you need to make this bed in a twin, full, queen or king (both standard and california king).  Thank you for using our plans, it is much appreciated.

 

Dimensions
diagram of modern farmhouse bed plans showing dimensions
Dimensions shown above

Preparation

Shopping List

TWIN SHOPPING LIST - Mattress Size 39" x 75"

  • 2 - 4x4 @ 6 feet long
  • 11 - 2x4 @ 8 feet or stud length (includes mattress slats)
  • 3 - 2x6 @ 8 feet or stud length
  • 5 - 1x6 boards or tongue and groove paneling @ 4 feet long
  • 1 - 2x2 @ 6 feet long
  • 2-3/4" self tapping screws
  • 1-1/4" brad nails
  • 2-1/2" pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4" pocket hole screws (optional)

 

FULL SHOPPING LIST - Mattress Size 54" x 75"

  • 2 - 4x4 @ 6 feet long
  • 5 - 2x4 @ 8 feet or stud length (cut the 75" boards from these)
  • 7 - 2x4 @ 10 feet (cut slats and rest of boards from these)
  • 4 - 2x6 @ 8 feet or stud length
  • 5 - 1x6 boards or tongue and groove paneling @ 54" long
  • 1 - 2x2 @ 6 feet long
  • 2-3/4" self tapping screws
  • 1-1/4" brad nails
  • 2-1/2" pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4" pocket hole screws (optional)

 

QUEEN SHOPPING LIST - Mattress Size 60" x 80"

  • 2 - 4x4 @ 6 feet long
  • 6 - 2x4 @ 8 feet or stud length (cut the 75" boards from these)
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 10 feet (cut 60" boards from these)
  • 5 - 2x4 or 1x4 @ 12 feet long (cut slats from these)
  • 4 - 2x6 @ 8 feet or stud length
  • 5 - 1x6 boards or tongue and groove paneling @ 60" long
  • 1 - 2x2 @ 6 feet long
  • 2-3/4" self tapping screws
  • 1-1/4" brad nails
  • 2-1/2" pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4" pocket hole screws (optional)

 

STANDARD KING SHOPPING LIST - Mattress Size 76" x 80"

  • 2 - 4x4 @ 6 feet long
  • 8 - 2x4 @ 8 feet or stud length (cut the 75" boards from these)
  • 11 - 2x4 or 1x4 @ 8 feet or stud length (cut slats from these)
  • 4 - 2x6 @ 8 feet or stud length
  • 5 - 1x6 boards or tongue and groove paneling @ 76" long
  • 1 - 2x2 @ 6 feet long
  • 2-3/4" self tapping screws
  • 1-1/4" brad nails
  • 2-1/2" pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4" pocket hole screws (optional)

 

CALIFORNIA KING SHOPPING LIST - Mattress Size 72" x 84"

  • 2 - 4x4 @ 6 feet long
  • 8 - 2x4 @ 8 feet or stud length (cut the 75" boards from these)
  • 11 - 2x4 or 1x4 @ 8 feet or stud length (cut slats from these)
  • 4 - 2x6 @ 8 feet or stud length
  • 5 - 1x6 boards or tongue and groove paneling @ 72" long
  • 1 - 2x2 @ 6 feet long
  • 2-3/4" self tapping screws
  • 1-1/4" brad nails
  • 2-1/2" pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4" pocket hole screws (optional)
Cut List

TWIN CUT LIST - Mattress Size 39" x 75"

  • 2 - 4x4 @ 52-1/2" - Headboard Legs
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 46" - Top of headboard
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 27-1/2"
  • 5 - 1x6 or 1x6 tongue and groove @ 39" - Headboard planking
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 39"
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 75" - Siderail Top
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 75" - Siderail
  • 2 - 4x4 @ 14-1/2" - Footboard Legs
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 39" - Footboard Top
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 39" - Footboard Base
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 75" - Cleats 
  • 11 - 1x4 or 2x4 @~41" - Slats (cut to fit)

 

FULL CUT LIST - Mattress Size 54" x 75"

  • 2 - 4x4 @ 52-1/2" - Headboard Legs
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 61" - Top of headboard
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 27-1/2" - headboard cleats
  • 5 - 1x6 or 1x6 tongue and groove @ 54" - Headboard planking
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 54"
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 75" - Siderail Top
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 75" - Siderail
  • 2 - 4x4 @ 14-1/2" - Footboard Legs
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 54" - Footboard Top
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 54" - Footboard Base
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 75" - Cleats
  • 1 - 2x4 @ ~76" - Center Cleat (cut to fit)
  • 11 - 1x4 or 2x4 @ ~56" - Slats (measure and cut to fit)

 

QUEEN CUT LIST - Mattress Size 60" x 80"

  • 2 - 4x4 @ 52-1/2" - Headboard Legs
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 67" - Top of headboard
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 27-1/2"
  • 5 - 1x6 or 1x6 tongue and groove @ 60" - Headboard planking
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 60"
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 80" - Siderail Top
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 80" - Siderail
  • 2 - 4x4 @ 14-1/2" - Footboard Legs
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 60" - Footboard Top
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 60" - Footboard Base
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 80" - Cleats
  • 1 - 2x4 @ ~81" - Center Cleat (cut to fit)
  • 10 - 1x4 or 2x4 @ ~62" - Slats (measure and cut to fit)

 

STANDARD KING CUT LIST - Mattress Size 76" x 80"

  • 2 - 4x4 @ 52-1/2" - Headboard Legs
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 83" - Top of headboard
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 27-1/2"
  • 5 - 1x6 or 1x6 tongue and groove @ 76"- Headboard planking
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 76"
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 80" - Siderail Top
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 80" - Siderail
  • 2 - 4x4 @ 14-1/2" - Footboard Legs
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 76" - Footboard Top
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 76" - Footboard Base
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 80" - Cleats
  • 1 - 2x4 @ ~81" - Center Cleat (cut to fit)
  • 11 - 1x4 or 2x4 @ ~82" - Slats (measure and cut to fit)

 

CALIFORNIA KING CUT LIST - Mattress Size 72" x 84"

  • 2 - 4x4 @ 52-1/2" - Headboard Legs
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 79" - Top of headboard
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 27-1/2"
  • 5 - 1x6 or 1x6 tongue and groove @ 72" - Headboard planking
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 72"
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 84" - Siderail Top
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 84" - Siderail
  • 2 - 4x4 @ 14-1/2" - Footboard Legs
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 72" - Footboard Top
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 72" - Footboard Base
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 84" - Cleats
  • 1 - 2x4 @ ~85" - Center Cleat (cut to fit)
  • 11 - 1x4 or 2x4 @ ~86" - Slats (measure and cut to fit)
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Miter Saw
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

Attach top 2x4 to legs - we just screwed through top with 2-3/4" self tapping screws.

Step 2

Screw 2x2 cleats to the 4x4 legs with 2-3/4" screws and glue.

NOTE: The diagram shows a 1x2.  Either will work but the 2x2 is stronger.

Step 3

Attach first plank board to cleats, top and legs.  If using tongue and groove, place groove side up, tongue side down.  Pocket holes (3/4" setting, 1-1/4" screws) recommended for attaching to legs and top.

Step 4

Attach remaining planking boards.  If not using tongue and groove, you will need to attach each 1x6 to the 1x6 before it with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Step 6

Build two of the siderails by attaching 2x6 to 2x4 with pocket holes.  We centered the 2x4 on the 2x6.  I also drilled pocket holes to attach the 2x4 (place carefully so won't be covered by 2x6) and 2x6 to the legs in later steps (see step 8).

Step 7

Build the footboard as you did the siderail, then attach to legs.

Step 8

Attach siderails to the legs with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws or metal brackets.

Step 9

Add cleats with 2-3/4" self tapping wood screws.  Center cleat optional for twin bed.

For additional support center legs can be added to the center cleat.

TWIN: No center support is needed

Step 10

Lay slats over cleats and screw down.

Project Type
Beds and Bed Frames
Twin
King
Full
Queen
Room
Bedroom
Style
Farmhouse Furniture
Industrial Style Furniture Plans
Modern Style Furniture Plans
Rustic Furniture Plans

Comments

canuck

Mon, 01/29/2018 - 21:46

Woodje12, do you have a photo of the finished bed? I'm about to start building tomorrow and also want to raise it up a bit... and I was thinking of using 1x10s as the side rails instead of 1x6s.  I'm new to woodworking and would love to see an example before I go buy everything!

woodje12

Tue, 01/30/2018 - 03:49

I've been meaning to post photos. I was also going to do 1 x 10's too but man was that going to be heavy. As it is, this thing could take a direct mortar hit! It is solid for sure. Take a look, I went up 2 inches from the plan and I could have pushed it a little more without affecting the syle IMHO but the wife wasn't so sure at the time.

canuck

Tue, 01/30/2018 - 19:00

Thank you! I saw your brag build and it looks amazing.  Hmm... just have to decide which to sizes to buy tomorrow... might be a game-time decision!

woodje12

Tue, 01/30/2018 - 19:10

It appears that my posts are showing up so not sure if this will either but I posted pictures under the Brag Your Build section. Please take a look there. I thought about 1x10's as well but they were so heavy. Even with the 1x6's I think this bed could withstand a direct mortar attack!

canuck

Wed, 01/31/2018 - 14:32

One last question for you... did you use 1x6s or 2x6s?  The plan calls for 2x6s (and I was thinking of going wiht 2x10s) but I"m having a hard time finding them in decent shape.  1x6s or 1x10s are more readily available but I wasn't sure if they're strong enough as the rails... any thoughts?  Thanks!

Jendaily

Sun, 01/07/2018 - 08:24

I want to make this for my son's room. What are the dimensions for an XL twin bed?

jlvhawk3

Mon, 01/22/2018 - 14:12

I believe there may be an issue in the cut list with the following line:

1 - 2x4 @ width of mattress - Footboard Base

I'm thinking this is supposed to be the 2x6 underneath the 2x4 top? 

omega21

Wed, 01/31/2018 - 04:53

Thank you so much for the detailed pictures and instructions. Really anyone can build his own bed from scratch following this. Your style really takes Woodworking to the next level. Keep up the good work. My elder bro is working on a new design which he thinks will blow! I always watch his craft as I follow the threads. They are awesome and I help him with some ideas. While surfing today, I came across this thing which I found very useful for him and for some other friends. Please check it, you may be interested as well. http://bit.ly/woodycraft

Cstacy007

Fri, 03/16/2018 - 13:46

For some reason i have a gap at the end of the headboard plank and the top of the bed.  i added an additional tongue/grove plank on the headboard for a total of 6 planks and still ended up with a gap (bottom of tongue/groove and top of my bed) that might eat pillows  ;)

Is my 8" mattress not tall enough? did your bed in the picture have a box spring as well? trying to come up with a solution since i can't get behind the frame anymore without taking the bed and side rails off of the headboard.

my browser is currently not letting me paste the picture to give you a visual example :(