Farmhouse Bed - Queen Sized

Submitted by Ana White on Sun, 05/19/2019 - 13:30
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This beautiful farmhouse bed can be made for just a fraction of the cost to buy - all from standard, off the shelf lumber!  You won't need a pocket hole jig or any special tools to build.

This bed has been built thousands of times and is a reader favorite.  You can also find the twin version, king version, and all our farmhouse bed plans here.

White farmhouse bed with distressed edges built by Ana White

Having a beautiful bed can transform any bedroom.  It's the most important piece in your bedroom, but can also be the most expensive.

Over a decade ago, I built my first farmhouse bed (pictured above).  We still use it today, it's still as strong and sturdy and beautiful as ever.  And it only cost about $120 to build then - thousands less than buying!

Farmhouse Bed Plans

We updated the original farmhouse bed plans to use less tools, less materials, but be just as beautiful!  You won't need a pocket hole jig - just a drill, nailer and a saw, to tackle this project.

The plans are below.  Please let us know in the comments or add a brag post on how your farmhouse bed turned out.  Thank you for using our plans.

NOTE: This bed plan has been updated and improved.  If you need the original plans, we have created a printable PDF for your convenience.

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Queen Size Farmhouse Bed

diagram of queen farmhouse bed showing dimensions
Dimensions fit a standard Queen Mattress 60" x 80"


Shopping List

12 - 2x4 8 feet long

2 - 2x6 8 feet long

2 - 1x10 8 feet long

2 - 4x4 8 feet long

1 - 2x2 8 feet long

6 - 1x6 8 feet long

4 - 1x4 8 feet long

100 - 1-1/4" long brad nails

75 - 2-1/2" long self tapping wood screws 

Cut List


2 - 4x4 @ 54"

2 - 2x2 @ 30"

11 - 1x6 @ 30" 

2 - 1x4 @ about 60-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x4@ 67-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x6 @ 69-1/2" - measure and cut to fit


2 - 4x4 @ 21"

2 - 2x2 @ 8"

2 - 2x2 @ 3"

11 - 1x6 @ 15" 

2 - 1x4 @ about 60-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x4@ 67-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x6 @ 69-1/2" - measure and cut to fit


3 - 2x4 @ 83-1/2"

1 - 2x4 @ 60-1/2"

2 - 2x4 @ 12-1/2"

2 - 1x10 @ 80"

20 - 2x4 @ 32" - can be as short as 30" if you need to burn up scraps

Cutting Instructions

Cut all boards except as noted to measure and cut.  We recommend using a compound miter saw for the straightest cuts, but you can also use a circular saw and a carpenter's square - just make sure your cut ends are nice and straight.

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander


Step 1

Attach the longest 2x2s to the longest 4x4s, flush to the back edge with 2-1/2" self tapping screws.  

Step 2

Layout the 30" 1x6 boards flat, side by side.  Measure the overall width of all the 1x6 boards.  Cut two 1x4s to this measurement.

Nail the 1x6 boards with glue to the 1x4s.  Apply glue between the 1x6 boards as you go.

Make sure the panel is built square by measuring opposite diagonals (outside top corner of 1x4 to outside bottom corner of opposite 1x4) and adjusting so the opposite diagonals match.

Step 3

Attach the headboard panel to the 2x2s on the legs with 2-1/2" screws.  Only screw to the headboard panel at the top and bottom portion backed by the 1x4s.

Also attach the panel from the front 1x6s to the 2x2s with 1-1/4" brad nails.

Step 4

Measure and cut the 2x4 for the top.  Attach with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 5

Repeat steps for the 2x6 top, leaving a 1" overhang on all four sides.

This completes the headboard build.

Step 6

The footboard is constructed exactly as the headboard, with the exception of the 2x2 cleats and the overall height.

Attach the 2x2 cleats with 2-1/2" screws.  The smaller cleat may split on you since the wood piece is so small.  You can predrill holes to help prevent wood from splitting.

Step 7

Build the panel and attach to the 2x2 cleats.

Step 8

Attach top 2x4 and 2x6 to the footboard with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 9

Attach the 2x4 cleat to the footboard, set in the 2x2 cleats, resting on the bottom cleat.  Use 2-1/2" screws to attach the 2x4 to the 4x4 legs.

Mark the headboard legs as shown in the diagram, and attach 2x4 cleat to the 4x4 legs with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 10

Use 2-1/2" screws to attach the headboard support between the cleats.

Step 11

Center legs add a ton of support and strength to the bed.  

First attach the shorter 2x4 "legs" to the center 2x4.  Then place the center 2x4 in place inside the bed, and attach to the footboard and the headboard 2x4.

Step 12

Measure and cut to fit the 1x10 siderails.  

Attach with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.

NOTE: If you find your 1x10s need to be attached at the top, you can buy small L brackets and use to attach 

Step 13

Cut the wood slats from remaining 2x4s and set inside the bed with about a 1/2" gap in between each slat.  You only need one screw on the siderail cleat to attach - but you can also add screws to the center support.



Finishing Instructions
Finish Used
I gave this bed an Antique White finish, but have done natural wood and other colors with the same success. I choose to distress this bed by lightly sanding outside edges. I also ran a flat bladed screwdriver down any groves in the planks to highlight the planking in the panel.



Thu, 01/16/2020 - 07:37

Hey Ana - can you point me to where the full size plan is for this bed? Love your website by the way!

Barton (not verified)

Sun, 11/01/2009 - 17:59

I love this! I have wanted this bed for a while. I need a new bed and wanted the farmhouse one.. but who seriously pays that much?! I considered it, but couldn't bring myself to it. I think me and my husband will try this! Do you have any tips for a california king?

Ana White (not verified)

Sun, 11/01/2009 - 19:18

Hi Barton, thanks for the comment! A california king measures 72" wide x 84" long (as opposed to a standard queen of 60x80). To adjust the plan for a california king, you would increase all width measurements by 12" and all length measurements by 4" (length measurements only apply to the frame and the sideboards).

For the panel, I would recommend building the panel 75" wide, using (10) 2x8's cut at 30" for the headboard and 15" for the footboard. Also cut the 1x4 trim boards to 75". Build the panesl at 75", then trim the panels down to 72" by taking 1 1/2" off either side, as demostrated in the post on converting the bed to a full size. This will ensure the boards are centered.

For the greatest success, cut as you go and take exact measurements. Also make sure to fully understand what you are building and why each board is of what length before you begin the project.

Hope this works for you. If you still have questions, please comment and I will post some diagrams to help explain better.

Best Luck! Love, Ana

In reply to by Ana White (not verified)


Fri, 03/04/2016 - 10:24

Ana, My bed is a standard king, and I know the dimensions are 76x80, and I know I must add 16" to the width pieces. The problem is: after looking over the shopping and cutting list, I'm not sure I understand (yet) which pieces are the width pieces.  Can you be more detailed on which pieces are width and which are length?  For example, do I need more panel pieces or wider ones? I know the joists are width pieces, but I guess the panel part is confusing me. 



The Boone Family (not verified)

Mon, 11/02/2009 - 09:50

Hi Ana. How would you do a regular king? I'm thinking of doing the black distressed look? Thanks, Rebekah

Ana White (not verified)

Mon, 11/02/2009 - 12:49

Hi Boone Family!

The bed shown in the photo is a standard king. The measurements for a standard king are 76x80, meaning the standard king is the same as a queen, just 16" wider. So the frame and the side rails would remain the same, the only difference is you would make the headboard and footboard 16" wider.

What you could do to keep things simple is use 1x10s for the panel instead of 1x8s. Using (8) 1x10s in the panels, the total distance would be exactly 76". Make your cuts for the panel trim (the 8 1x4s) at 76", the 2x4 topper at 83" and the 2x6 overall header at 85".

In the bed in the picture, I ended up using 1x8 T&G leftover from a wood ceiling because it was what I had on hand, but it would be simpler to use the 1x10s.

Just a word of caution, there are actually 4 different types of king mattresses, so be sure to take the exact measurements of your mattress before building anything. Then use the overall width to figure your dimensions.

I hope I haven't confused you further. Let me know if you have any more questions. Best Luck!

Love, Ana

Ana White (not verified)

Mon, 11/02/2009 - 12:52

One more thing to the Boone Family -

The black distressed look is one of my absolute favorites! I've done alot of finishes, and the black is beautiful and classic. Once I delivered a furniture order to a retailer, and every black piece was sold within days!

Keep checking back, I will post on how to get that distressed finish.

Love, Ana

Sarah (not verified)

Thu, 11/26/2009 - 15:39

I just found your blog and LOVE it! Thanks for all of the great plans. Makes me want to break out my saw right this very second!

SAHMamacita (not verified)

Sun, 11/29/2009 - 22:07


Do you still accept orders? I've read through this blog and find it inspiring... Although I intend to attempt a few of these projects, was curious if you still sold your work? If so, please advise. Specifically, I was interested in the kid's table - Land of Nod and Thanksgiving table. Please post plans for the chairs or any kid chair, if possible. Would love to order a storage system for my kids' rooms, armoire, and Farmhouse bed (full size). Thanks!! Kathy

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