Farmhouse Bed - Queen Sized

Submitted by Ana White on Sun, 05/19/2019 - 13:30
Difficulty
Intermediate
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This beautiful farmhouse bed can be made for just a fraction of the cost to buy - all from standard, off the shelf lumber!  You won't need a pocket hole jig or any special tools to build.

This bed has been built thousands of times and is a reader favorite.  You can also find the twin version, king version, and all our farmhouse bed plans here.

White farmhouse bed with distressed edges built by Ana White

Having a beautiful bed can transform any bedroom.  It's the most important piece in your bedroom, but can also be the most expensive.

Over a decade ago, I built my first farmhouse bed (pictured above).  We still use it today, it's still as strong and sturdy and beautiful as ever.  And it only cost about $120 to build then - thousands less than buying!

Farmhouse Bed Plans

We updated the original farmhouse bed plans to use less tools, less materials, but be just as beautiful!  You won't need a pocket hole jig - just a drill, nailer and a saw, to tackle this project.

The plans are below.  Please let us know in the comments or add a brag post on how your farmhouse bed turned out.  Thank you for using our plans.

 

NOTE: This bed plan has been updated and improved.  If you need the original plans, we have created a printable PDF for your convenience.

Dimensions
diagram of queen farmhouse bed showing dimensions
Dimensions fit a standard Queen Mattress 60" x 80"

Preparation

Shopping List

12 - 2x4 8 feet long

2 - 2x6 8 feet long

2 - 1x10 8 feet long

2 - 4x4 8 feet long

1 - 2x2 8 feet long

6 - 1x6 8 feet long

4 - 1x4 8 feet long

100 - 1-1/4" long brad nails

75 - 2-1/2" long self tapping wood screws 

Cut List

HEADBOARD CUT LIST

2 - 4x4 @ 54"

2 - 2x2 @ 30"

11 - 1x6 @ 30" 

2 - 1x4 @ about 60-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x4@ 67-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x6 @ 69-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

 

FOOTBOARD CUT LIST

2 - 4x4 @ 21"

2 - 2x2 @ 8"

2 - 2x2 @ 3"

11 - 1x6 @ 15" 

2 - 1x4 @ about 60-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x4@ 67-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x6 @ 69-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

 

MATTRESS SUPPORT FRAME/SIDERAILS

3 - 2x4 @ 83-1/2"

1 - 2x4 @ 60-1/2"

2 - 2x4 @ 12-1/2"

2 - 1x10 @ 80"

20 - 2x4 @ 32" - can be as short as 30" if you need to burn up scraps

Cutting Instructions

Cut all boards except as noted to measure and cut.  We recommend using a compound miter saw for the straightest cuts, but you can also use a circular saw and a carpenter's square - just make sure your cut ends are nice and straight.

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

diagram showing 2x2s attaching to the 4x4 legs

Attach the longest 2x2s to the longest 4x4s, flush to the back edge with 2-1/2" self tapping screws.  

Step 2

diagram showing the headboard panel pieces

Layout the 30" 1x6 boards flat, side by side.  Measure the overall width of all the 1x6 boards.  Cut two 1x4s to this measurement.

Nail the 1x6 boards with glue to the 1x4s.  Apply glue between the 1x6 boards as you go.

Make sure the panel is built square by measuring opposite diagonals (outside top corner of 1x4 to outside bottom corner of opposite 1x4) and adjusting so the opposite diagonals match.

Step 3

Diagram showing attaching headboard panel to legs

Attach the headboard panel to the 2x2s on the legs with 2-1/2" screws.  Only screw to the headboard panel at the top and bottom portion backed by the 1x4s.

Also attach the panel from the front 1x6s to the 2x2s with 1-1/4" brad nails.

Step 4

Diagram showing attaching the 2x4 top to the headboard panel

Measure and cut the 2x4 for the top.  Attach with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 5

Diagram showing attaching the 2x6 top to the headboard panel

Repeat steps for the 2x6 top, leaving a 1" overhang on all four sides.

This completes the headboard build.

Step 6

The footboard is constructed exactly as the headboard, with the exception of the 2x2 cleats and the overall height.

Attach the 2x2 cleats with 2-1/2" screws.  The smaller cleat may split on you since the wood piece is so small.  You can predrill holes to help prevent wood from splitting.

Step 7

Build the panel and attach to the 2x2 cleats.

Step 8

Attach top 2x4 and 2x6 to the footboard with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 9

diagram showing headboard and footboard attached to siderail cleats

Attach the 2x4 cleat to the footboard, set in the 2x2 cleats, resting on the bottom cleat.  Use 2-1/2" screws to attach the 2x4 to the 4x4 legs.

Mark the headboard legs as shown in the diagram, and attach 2x4 cleat to the 4x4 legs with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 10

diagram showing bed frame assembly

Use 2-1/2" screws to attach the headboard support between the cleats.

Step 11

diagram showing center legs on bed frame

Center legs add a ton of support and strength to the bed.  

First attach the shorter 2x4 "legs" to the center 2x4.  Then place the center 2x4 in place inside the bed, and attach to the footboard and the headboard 2x4.

Step 12

diagram showing the siderails attaching to the bed frame

Measure and cut to fit the 1x10 siderails.  

Attach with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.

NOTE: If you find your 1x10s need to be attached at the top, you can buy small L brackets and use to attach 

Step 13

Cut the wood slats from remaining 2x4s and set inside the bed with about a 1/2" gap in between each slat.  You only need one screw on the siderail cleat to attach - but you can also add screws to the center support.

 

 

Finishing Instructions
Finish Used
I gave this bed an Antique White finish, but have done natural wood and other colors with the same success. I choose to distress this bed by lightly sanding outside edges. I also ran a flat bladed screwdriver down any groves in the planks to highlight the planking in the panel.
Project Type
Room

Comments

eli (not verified)

Wed, 01/27/2010 - 06:15

From what my friend tells me, you should not use treated because they will shrink and twist. Two bad for me, because I will have to throw the head and foot board in the trash. For they are not coming off.

Kristin (not verified)

Wed, 01/27/2010 - 08:29

AN ALTERNATIVE TO THE 4x4 POSTS:

I used 2-2x4s. I was in a fully equipped wood shop so you may not have access to all the tools and machinery. Try to find squared-off ones instead of the rounded ones. I couldn't so I trimmed the rounded edges off with a table saw, making my boards 3x3s when put together. (I don't think it will really matter if they are still rounded, maybe you can use putty in the seam. Somebody correct me if I am wrong on that as I haven't actually done it.)

I then glued two boards together and clamped them over night to dry. Make sure to get glue all over the parts that will touch. Also make sure the edges are flush. Mine were a little off so I sanded them down real well after I scraped the glue off that dripped out. (Dripping glue is good...it means you had enough glue in between the boards!)

I then put my seams facing the sides so they are not as noticeable. If you join the two boards well enough, you won't be able to notice at all. On one leg I had a hard time finding the seams to put on the outside and I was looking for it!

Ana, I hope you don't mind me jumping in here! I almost didn't build a bed because I could not find the 4x4s untreated! I am so glad you told me I could use 2-2x4s!

Candace @ Cand… (not verified)

Thu, 01/28/2010 - 14:46

I just found your blog through Made with love and Glue, and I'm hooked! Thanks so much for this bed tutorial! I really hope my husband can make this for me! I mean us!
And perhaps adapt the design to make a twin size version for my daughter!

Kristin (not verified)

Thu, 01/28/2010 - 17:53

Candace, Ana posted a modified plan for a twin size of the farmhouse. So you don't have to do it!!

Anonymous (not verified)

Fri, 01/29/2010 - 18:11

First of all, Nice blog, Love it! I just have a one thing. when you select your 1x8 boards you want to try to find 7 1/2" boards. I, not knowing better got 7 1/4 boards and it only came out to 57 3/4" not 60" so the bed turned out a little less wide. Anybody else run into this problem?

Anonymous (not verified)

Fri, 01/29/2010 - 18:18

Oh yeah 4x4s. I found 8' fir for like 12$ each at menards. My total was like 130$ minus paint and plywood, still cheap enough.

Ana White (not verified)

Tue, 02/02/2010 - 09:04

No chisel - I actually used a flat bladed screwdriver and scraped the paint between all the boards in the panel to add some depth.

Leslie (not verified)

Wed, 02/03/2010 - 07:20

Sorry I am a bit confused how to make the box spring work with this bed. It I do 2 X 6 joists my box spring is going to sit about 4 inches above the side rails. Can I use 2 x 4's instead or will that make the bed not strong enough? Also, my box spring is 60 inches wide and the joists are only 57. From side to side of my 4x4s there is 60 inches. I really should have premeasured the box spring, but this is my first project and do not really know what i am doing. I have already built the headboard. Any ideas how to fix this without starting completely over. I would like to hide as much of my box spring as possible since I wont be able to use the dust ruffle anymore.
Thanks for all your plans, I am loving this, hopefully I will start to figure out what I am doing though!
Leslie (sorry I saw afterwords you want them on the blog, not email)