This beautiful farmhouse bed can be made for just a fraction of the cost to buy - all from standard, off the shelf lumber! You won't need a pocket hole jig or any special tools to build.
This bed has been built thousands of times and is a reader favorite. You can also find the twin version, king version, and all our farmhouse bed plans here.
Preparation
12 - 2x4 8 feet long
2 - 2x6 8 feet long
2 - 1x10 8 feet long
2 - 4x4 8 feet long
1 - 2x2 8 feet long
6 - 1x6 8 feet long
4 - 1x4 8 feet long
100 - 1-1/4" long brad nails
75 - 2-1/2" long self tapping wood screws
HEADBOARD CUT LIST
2 - 4x4 @ 54"
2 - 2x2 @ 30"
11 - 1x6 @ 30"
2 - 1x4 @ about 60-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
1 - 2x4@ 67-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
1 - 2x6 @ 69-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
FOOTBOARD CUT LIST
2 - 4x4 @ 21"
2 - 2x2 @ 8"
2 - 2x2 @ 3"
11 - 1x6 @ 15"
2 - 1x4 @ about 60-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
1 - 2x4@ 67-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
1 - 2x6 @ 69-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
MATTRESS SUPPORT FRAME/SIDERAILS
3 - 2x4 @ 83-1/2"
1 - 2x4 @ 60-1/2"
2 - 2x4 @ 12-1/2"
2 - 1x10 @ 80"
20 - 2x4 @ 32" - can be as short as 30" if you need to burn up scraps
Cut all boards except as noted to measure and cut. We recommend using a compound miter saw for the straightest cuts, but you can also use a circular saw and a carpenter's square - just make sure your cut ends are nice and straight.
Instructions
Step 1
Attach the longest 2x2s to the longest 4x4s, flush to the back edge with 2-1/2" self tapping screws.
Step 2
Layout the 30" 1x6 boards flat, side by side. Measure the overall width of all the 1x6 boards. Cut two 1x4s to this measurement.
Nail the 1x6 boards with glue to the 1x4s. Apply glue between the 1x6 boards as you go.
Make sure the panel is built square by measuring opposite diagonals (outside top corner of 1x4 to outside bottom corner of opposite 1x4) and adjusting so the opposite diagonals match.
Step 3
Attach the headboard panel to the 2x2s on the legs with 2-1/2" screws. Only screw to the headboard panel at the top and bottom portion backed by the 1x4s.
Also attach the panel from the front 1x6s to the 2x2s with 1-1/4" brad nails.
Step 4
Measure and cut the 2x4 for the top. Attach with 2-1/2" screws.
Step 5
Repeat steps for the 2x6 top, leaving a 1" overhang on all four sides.
This completes the headboard build.
Step 6
The footboard is constructed exactly as the headboard, with the exception of the 2x2 cleats and the overall height.
Attach the 2x2 cleats with 2-1/2" screws. The smaller cleat may split on you since the wood piece is so small. You can predrill holes to help prevent wood from splitting.
Step 7
Build the panel and attach to the 2x2 cleats.
Step 8
Attach top 2x4 and 2x6 to the footboard with 2-1/2" screws.
Step 9
Attach the 2x4 cleat to the footboard, set in the 2x2 cleats, resting on the bottom cleat. Use 2-1/2" screws to attach the 2x4 to the 4x4 legs.
Mark the headboard legs as shown in the diagram, and attach 2x4 cleat to the 4x4 legs with 2-1/2" screws.
Step 10
Use 2-1/2" screws to attach the headboard support between the cleats.
Step 11
Center legs add a ton of support and strength to the bed.
First attach the shorter 2x4 "legs" to the center 2x4. Then place the center 2x4 in place inside the bed, and attach to the footboard and the headboard 2x4.
Step 12
Measure and cut to fit the 1x10 siderails.
Attach with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.
NOTE: If you find your 1x10s need to be attached at the top, you can buy small L brackets and use to attach
Step 13
Cut the wood slats from remaining 2x4s and set inside the bed with about a 1/2" gap in between each slat. You only need one screw on the siderail cleat to attach - but you can also add screws to the center support.
We apologize if there was an error in this plan. Please help us out and report any errors here.
Comments
Anonymous (not verified)
Sat, 01/23/2010 - 13:28
This site is amazing! Very
This site is amazing! Very excited to get my husband working on our new King bed! You make a great name for women - love your style and energy... fabulous blog!
Brandi (not verified)
Mon, 01/25/2010 - 10:22
Just finished making this bed
Just finished making this bed and I just love it. Made a couple of simple mistakes but nothing that coildn't be fixed. Now it is time to paint.
eli (not verified)
Mon, 01/25/2010 - 13:52
I also just finished making
I also just finished making the bed, I used treated 4x4's since the ceder and fir 4x4's were $40 a peice. Wondering if anyone has does this? For they seem pretty wet (not dried out yet) I'm wondering if I paint them (wet) will it affect anything? Rot or discoloring ect...It sure added a lot of weight.
Kim (not verified)
Wed, 01/27/2010 - 06:01
I'm having the same problem -
I'm having the same problem - I've called around and Home Depot & Lowes only have TREATED 4x4 posts. The lumber yards only have cedar and fir which are very expensive. Are there any alternatives? Is using treated wood for just the posts a possibility or is there a workaround? Thanks!
eli (not verified)
Wed, 01/27/2010 - 06:15
From what my friend tells me,
From what my friend tells me, you should not use treated because they will shrink and twist. Two bad for me, because I will have to throw the head and foot board in the trash. For they are not coming off.
Kristin (not verified)
Wed, 01/27/2010 - 08:29
AN ALTERNATIVE TO THE 4x4
AN ALTERNATIVE TO THE 4x4 POSTS:
I used 2-2x4s. I was in a fully equipped wood shop so you may not have access to all the tools and machinery. Try to find squared-off ones instead of the rounded ones. I couldn't so I trimmed the rounded edges off with a table saw, making my boards 3x3s when put together. (I don't think it will really matter if they are still rounded, maybe you can use putty in the seam. Somebody correct me if I am wrong on that as I haven't actually done it.)
I then glued two boards together and clamped them over night to dry. Make sure to get glue all over the parts that will touch. Also make sure the edges are flush. Mine were a little off so I sanded them down real well after I scraped the glue off that dripped out. (Dripping glue is good...it means you had enough glue in between the boards!)
I then put my seams facing the sides so they are not as noticeable. If you join the two boards well enough, you won't be able to notice at all. On one leg I had a hard time finding the seams to put on the outside and I was looking for it!
Ana, I hope you don't mind me jumping in here! I almost didn't build a bed because I could not find the 4x4s untreated! I am so glad you told me I could use 2-2x4s!
Candace @ Cand… (not verified)
Thu, 01/28/2010 - 14:46
I just found your blog
I just found your blog through Made with love and Glue, and I'm hooked! Thanks so much for this bed tutorial! I really hope my husband can make this for me! I mean us!
And perhaps adapt the design to make a twin size version for my daughter!
Kristin (not verified)
Thu, 01/28/2010 - 17:53
Candace, Ana posted a
Candace, Ana posted a modified plan for a twin size of the farmhouse. So you don't have to do it!!
Anonymous (not verified)
Fri, 01/29/2010 - 18:11
First of all, Nice blog, Love
First of all, Nice blog, Love it! I just have a one thing. when you select your 1x8 boards you want to try to find 7 1/2" boards. I, not knowing better got 7 1/4 boards and it only came out to 57 3/4" not 60" so the bed turned out a little less wide. Anybody else run into this problem?
Anonymous (not verified)
Fri, 01/29/2010 - 18:18
Oh yeah 4x4s. I found 8' fir
Oh yeah 4x4s. I found 8' fir for like 12$ each at menards. My total was like 130$ minus paint and plywood, still cheap enough.