Farmhouse Bed - Queen Sized

Submitted by Ana White on Sun, 05/19/2019 - 13:30
Difficulty
Intermediate
| Print this plan

This beautiful farmhouse bed can be made for just a fraction of the cost to buy - all from standard, off the shelf lumber!  You won't need a pocket hole jig or any special tools to build.

This bed has been built thousands of times and is a reader favorite.  You can also find the twin version, king version, and all our farmhouse bed plans here.

Collections
White farmhouse bed with distressed edges built by Ana White

Having a beautiful bed can transform any bedroom.  It's the most important piece in your bedroom, but can also be the most expensive.

Over a decade ago, I built my first farmhouse bed (pictured above).  We still use it today, it's still as strong and sturdy and beautiful as ever.  And it only cost about $120 to build then - thousands less than buying!

Farmhouse Bed Plans

We updated the original farmhouse bed plans to use less tools, less materials, but be just as beautiful!  You won't need a pocket hole jig - just a drill, nailer and a saw, to tackle this project.

The plans are below.  Please let us know in the comments or add a brag post on how your farmhouse bed turned out.  Thank you for using our plans.

 

NOTE: This bed plan has been updated and improved.  If you need the original plans, we have created a printable PDF for your convenience.

Dimensions
diagram of queen farmhouse bed showing dimensions
Dimensions fit a standard Queen Mattress 60" x 80"

Preparation

Shopping List

12 - 2x4 8 feet long

2 - 2x6 8 feet long

2 - 1x10 8 feet long

2 - 4x4 8 feet long

1 - 2x2 8 feet long

6 - 1x6 8 feet long

4 - 1x4 8 feet long

100 - 1-1/4" long brad nails

75 - 2-1/2" long self tapping wood screws 

Cut List

HEADBOARD CUT LIST

2 - 4x4 @ 54"

2 - 2x2 @ 30"

11 - 1x6 @ 30" 

2 - 1x4 @ about 60-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x4@ 67-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x6 @ 69-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

 

FOOTBOARD CUT LIST

2 - 4x4 @ 21"

2 - 2x2 @ 8"

2 - 2x2 @ 3"

11 - 1x6 @ 15" 

2 - 1x4 @ about 60-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x4@ 67-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x6 @ 69-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

 

MATTRESS SUPPORT FRAME/SIDERAILS

3 - 2x4 @ 83-1/2"

1 - 2x4 @ 60-1/2"

2 - 2x4 @ 12-1/2"

2 - 1x10 @ 80"

20 - 2x4 @ 32" - can be as short as 30" if you need to burn up scraps

Cutting Instructions

Cut all boards except as noted to measure and cut.  We recommend using a compound miter saw for the straightest cuts, but you can also use a circular saw and a carpenter's square - just make sure your cut ends are nice and straight.

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

diagram showing 2x2s attaching to the 4x4 legs

Attach the longest 2x2s to the longest 4x4s, flush to the back edge with 2-1/2" self tapping screws.  

Step 2

diagram showing the headboard panel pieces

Layout the 30" 1x6 boards flat, side by side.  Measure the overall width of all the 1x6 boards.  Cut two 1x4s to this measurement.

Nail the 1x6 boards with glue to the 1x4s.  Apply glue between the 1x6 boards as you go.

Make sure the panel is built square by measuring opposite diagonals (outside top corner of 1x4 to outside bottom corner of opposite 1x4) and adjusting so the opposite diagonals match.

Step 3

Diagram showing attaching headboard panel to legs

Attach the headboard panel to the 2x2s on the legs with 2-1/2" screws.  Only screw to the headboard panel at the top and bottom portion backed by the 1x4s.

Also attach the panel from the front 1x6s to the 2x2s with 1-1/4" brad nails.

Step 4

Diagram showing attaching the 2x4 top to the headboard panel

Measure and cut the 2x4 for the top.  Attach with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 5

Diagram showing attaching the 2x6 top to the headboard panel

Repeat steps for the 2x6 top, leaving a 1" overhang on all four sides.

This completes the headboard build.

Step 6

The footboard is constructed exactly as the headboard, with the exception of the 2x2 cleats and the overall height.

Attach the 2x2 cleats with 2-1/2" screws.  The smaller cleat may split on you since the wood piece is so small.  You can predrill holes to help prevent wood from splitting.

Step 7

Build the panel and attach to the 2x2 cleats.

Step 8

Attach top 2x4 and 2x6 to the footboard with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 9

diagram showing headboard and footboard attached to siderail cleats

Attach the 2x4 cleat to the footboard, set in the 2x2 cleats, resting on the bottom cleat.  Use 2-1/2" screws to attach the 2x4 to the 4x4 legs.

Mark the headboard legs as shown in the diagram, and attach 2x4 cleat to the 4x4 legs with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 10

diagram showing bed frame assembly

Use 2-1/2" screws to attach the headboard support between the cleats.

Step 11

diagram showing center legs on bed frame

Center legs add a ton of support and strength to the bed.  

First attach the shorter 2x4 "legs" to the center 2x4.  Then place the center 2x4 in place inside the bed, and attach to the footboard and the headboard 2x4.

Step 12

diagram showing the siderails attaching to the bed frame

Measure and cut to fit the 1x10 siderails.  

Attach with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.

NOTE: If you find your 1x10s need to be attached at the top, you can buy small L brackets and use to attach 

Step 13

Cut the wood slats from remaining 2x4s and set inside the bed with about a 1/2" gap in between each slat.  You only need one screw on the siderail cleat to attach - but you can also add screws to the center support.

 

 

Finishing Instructions
Finish Used
I gave this bed an Antique White finish, but have done natural wood and other colors with the same success. I choose to distress this bed by lightly sanding outside edges. I also ran a flat bladed screwdriver down any groves in the planks to highlight the planking in the panel.
Help Improve This Plan

We apologize if there was an error in this plan. Please help us out and report any errors here.

Comments

Lauren (not verified)

Mon, 02/15/2010 - 03:15

Hi Ana!
I just have a question...
I'm going to start the bed today and it's my first project(so excited!)
I was wondering when you use the brad gun and glue to attach parts of the headboard together, do you have to clamp it? I'm a beginner and am not sure when/if clamping is needed...
Thank you!!

Sabrina (not verified)

Mon, 02/15/2010 - 08:01

Lauren, my husband is almost finished with our bed, and he didn't clamp anything while he glued/nailed. He said the only thing he thinks you would need to clamp is if you didn't find 4x4's and used 2 2x4s, you'd probably need to clamp those. But we had no problem finding the 4x4's at our home depot.

Anonymous (not verified)

Fri, 02/19/2010 - 10:40

WOW! Thank you SO MUCH for posting this WONDERFUL plan. I tried to make my own plans on Google Sketch-Up and gave up in frustration, but I am SO THANKFUL to have something to build for my wife on a limited budget that looks so phenomenal! Thank you, thank you!

Karianne (not verified)

Fri, 02/26/2010 - 08:10

I am thinking of building just the headboard for this bed. Can I bolt the headboard onto our metal bed frame? How would that best work?

sunflowerlin (not verified)

Fri, 02/26/2010 - 20:39

OH MY GOODNESS! I LOVE this bed :D Can you please inform me when you get the plans/dimensions for the king size version because I would love to take a crack at it!

Loving all of your blog, one day when we have a little income, I am going to build a lot of furniture pieces and you will definitely be a HUGE resource!

Thanks!
sun_flower_lin (at) hotmail (dot) com

lorchick @ ON{… (not verified)

Sun, 02/28/2010 - 16:49

Hi Ana, I've been following your blog for a few months and you're just so inspiring to me! My next giftie from my husband is going to be a compound mitre saw. He's absolutely delighted that I want a tool that he wants too ;)
For now, though, I just fired an email off to my dad, who has all the woodworking tools one could want, and asked him if he can help me build this farmhouse bed for my hubby for his birthday (in may). I couldn't pick a countersink bit out of a lineup a few weeks ago, but hopefully by May I'll be tossing around carpentry terms like a pro ;) Thanks for your inspiration! (I've also linked to your blog from my sidebar for a while now, too!)

Jen (not verified)

Wed, 03/03/2010 - 10:35

Hi Ana, thanks again for sharing your plans! We went to our Lowe's and purchased our lumber, only a sales associate told us they do not make 4 and a half in screws:(

Was it a lag bolt or a different kind of screw? We can't wait to build this but just don't know which screw to get for that part of the list. If anyone else knows will you email us? girlxmom@yahoo.com

THANKS a million!! love your work!

Melissa (not verified)

Thu, 03/04/2010 - 10:05

Hi Ana, love your blog! Forgive me if someone already asked this but would this attach to a simple metal frame, or would I have to adjust the plans? We already have one and in the interest of time and energy I would just as soon attach our metal frame to the head and footboards.

Thanks!
-Melissa

Christopher (not verified)

Sun, 03/07/2010 - 14:01

For everyone who has asked about 4 1/2 inch screws, forget Lowe's or Home Depot. Go to Ace or True Value, walked in this morning and in 2 mins i was walking out the door with my nails at .25 a piece.