Farmhouse Bed - Queen Sized

Submitted by Ana White on Sun, 05/19/2019 - 13:30
Difficulty
Intermediate
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This beautiful farmhouse bed can be made for just a fraction of the cost to buy - all from standard, off the shelf lumber!  You won't need a pocket hole jig or any special tools to build.

This bed has been built thousands of times and is a reader favorite.  You can also find the twin version, king version, and all our farmhouse bed plans here.

Collections
White farmhouse bed with distressed edges built by Ana White

Having a beautiful bed can transform any bedroom.  It's the most important piece in your bedroom, but can also be the most expensive.

Over a decade ago, I built my first farmhouse bed (pictured above).  We still use it today, it's still as strong and sturdy and beautiful as ever.  And it only cost about $120 to build then - thousands less than buying!

Farmhouse Bed Plans

We updated the original farmhouse bed plans to use less tools, less materials, but be just as beautiful!  You won't need a pocket hole jig - just a drill, nailer and a saw, to tackle this project.

The plans are below.  Please let us know in the comments or add a brag post on how your farmhouse bed turned out.  Thank you for using our plans.

 

NOTE: This bed plan has been updated and improved.  If you need the original plans, we have created a printable PDF for your convenience.

Dimensions
diagram of queen farmhouse bed showing dimensions
Dimensions fit a standard Queen Mattress 60" x 80"

Preparation

Shopping List

12 - 2x4 8 feet long

2 - 2x6 8 feet long

2 - 1x10 8 feet long

2 - 4x4 8 feet long

1 - 2x2 8 feet long

6 - 1x6 8 feet long

4 - 1x4 8 feet long

100 - 1-1/4" long brad nails

75 - 2-1/2" long self tapping wood screws 

Cut List

HEADBOARD CUT LIST

2 - 4x4 @ 54"

2 - 2x2 @ 30"

11 - 1x6 @ 30" 

2 - 1x4 @ about 60-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x4@ 67-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x6 @ 69-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

 

FOOTBOARD CUT LIST

2 - 4x4 @ 21"

2 - 2x2 @ 8"

2 - 2x2 @ 3"

11 - 1x6 @ 15" 

2 - 1x4 @ about 60-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x4@ 67-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x6 @ 69-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

 

MATTRESS SUPPORT FRAME/SIDERAILS

3 - 2x4 @ 83-1/2"

1 - 2x4 @ 60-1/2"

2 - 2x4 @ 12-1/2"

2 - 1x10 @ 80"

20 - 2x4 @ 32" - can be as short as 30" if you need to burn up scraps

Cutting Instructions

Cut all boards except as noted to measure and cut.  We recommend using a compound miter saw for the straightest cuts, but you can also use a circular saw and a carpenter's square - just make sure your cut ends are nice and straight.

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

diagram showing 2x2s attaching to the 4x4 legs

Attach the longest 2x2s to the longest 4x4s, flush to the back edge with 2-1/2" self tapping screws.  

Step 2

diagram showing the headboard panel pieces

Layout the 30" 1x6 boards flat, side by side.  Measure the overall width of all the 1x6 boards.  Cut two 1x4s to this measurement.

Nail the 1x6 boards with glue to the 1x4s.  Apply glue between the 1x6 boards as you go.

Make sure the panel is built square by measuring opposite diagonals (outside top corner of 1x4 to outside bottom corner of opposite 1x4) and adjusting so the opposite diagonals match.

Step 3

Diagram showing attaching headboard panel to legs

Attach the headboard panel to the 2x2s on the legs with 2-1/2" screws.  Only screw to the headboard panel at the top and bottom portion backed by the 1x4s.

Also attach the panel from the front 1x6s to the 2x2s with 1-1/4" brad nails.

Step 4

Diagram showing attaching the 2x4 top to the headboard panel

Measure and cut the 2x4 for the top.  Attach with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 5

Diagram showing attaching the 2x6 top to the headboard panel

Repeat steps for the 2x6 top, leaving a 1" overhang on all four sides.

This completes the headboard build.

Step 6

The footboard is constructed exactly as the headboard, with the exception of the 2x2 cleats and the overall height.

Attach the 2x2 cleats with 2-1/2" screws.  The smaller cleat may split on you since the wood piece is so small.  You can predrill holes to help prevent wood from splitting.

Step 7

Build the panel and attach to the 2x2 cleats.

Step 8

Attach top 2x4 and 2x6 to the footboard with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 9

diagram showing headboard and footboard attached to siderail cleats

Attach the 2x4 cleat to the footboard, set in the 2x2 cleats, resting on the bottom cleat.  Use 2-1/2" screws to attach the 2x4 to the 4x4 legs.

Mark the headboard legs as shown in the diagram, and attach 2x4 cleat to the 4x4 legs with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 10

diagram showing bed frame assembly

Use 2-1/2" screws to attach the headboard support between the cleats.

Step 11

diagram showing center legs on bed frame

Center legs add a ton of support and strength to the bed.  

First attach the shorter 2x4 "legs" to the center 2x4.  Then place the center 2x4 in place inside the bed, and attach to the footboard and the headboard 2x4.

Step 12

diagram showing the siderails attaching to the bed frame

Measure and cut to fit the 1x10 siderails.  

Attach with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.

NOTE: If you find your 1x10s need to be attached at the top, you can buy small L brackets and use to attach 

Step 13

Cut the wood slats from remaining 2x4s and set inside the bed with about a 1/2" gap in between each slat.  You only need one screw on the siderail cleat to attach - but you can also add screws to the center support.

 

 

Finishing Instructions
Finish Used
I gave this bed an Antique White finish, but have done natural wood and other colors with the same success. I choose to distress this bed by lightly sanding outside edges. I also ran a flat bladed screwdriver down any groves in the planks to highlight the planking in the panel.
Help Improve This Plan

We apologize if there was an error in this plan. Please help us out and report any errors here.

Comments

Ana White (not verified)

Fri, 01/15/2010 - 08:30

Screw Holes. I can see the screw holes, but no one else has ever noticed them. I'm slightly a perfectionist when it comes to my furniture.

From my experience, you need to overfill the screw holes with wood putty. Let dry completely. Then sand evenly. If you do this correctly, you should not even see the screw holes.

If you have a chance, look at the Kids Storage Chair I built. This shows the chair sanded, and the chair was screwed together.

Anonymous (not verified)

Fri, 01/15/2010 - 18:42

Thank you for these plans. You do great work. What kind of wood did you use for the frame and for the 4x4s.

Laura (not verified)

Sun, 01/17/2010 - 10:17

Hi Ana!
First, I just have to say that I LOVE your site and am so glad you have shared your plans! I have not built anything before but can't wait to try a number of your plans!
I just have one question... The tool list says to use a brad nailer...is it possible to just nail the nails in with a hammer? or is it not as good? This is all new to me so I need all the help I can get ;) thanks so much!!!

Ana White (not verified)

Sun, 01/17/2010 - 10:22

Hi Laura, I am going to recommend not using a hammer and nails. The biggest reason is that the nails will be very evident because of the larger head size for standard nails. Also, it is very difficult to hold your piece steady and straight while nailing.

If you can get your hands on a nailer, please do. My sister has always hated any DIY and this past week, I had her build with my nailgun. She's in love! It's like hand sewing vs a sewing machine. I'm not saying it cannot be done . . . it's just that you will face a mcuch greater challenge.

You may be able to rent a nailer from Home Depot or Lowes for a day. You can also purchase refurnbished nailers cheap. I've seen a good nailer for as low as $40. But you will also need a air compressor.

I wish you could just come over to my shop and build with me!

Ana

Kara Pothier (not verified)

Mon, 01/18/2010 - 09:30

I came across your site from younghouselove.com and fell in love. Your furniture is beautiful.

I have some (perhaps a few!) questions regarding the bed. It looks as though it is meant to be used without a box, is that right? Do you alter it to use a box? How high from the ground do you screw the rails into the head and footboard? How do you recess the screws in the post so you can putty them? And is this a bed that can be taken apart and put back together if we move, do we need to screw new holes?

I'm so excited about this project! Thanks

Ana White (not verified)

Mon, 01/18/2010 - 15:24

Hi Kara,

You can use a boxspring if you have one, or if you don't have a box spring, you can add the slats. I suggest looking through the other bed plans to see the different methods for constructing the bed frame. If you have a boxspring, you will simply lower the inside cleats. If you do not have a box spring, then you will need to add the framing. Depending on your desired mattress height, fasten the rails to the footboard and headboard. Make sure you fasten the same height.

You will need to use a countersink bit to hide your screw holes on the 4x4 posts.

You can use the same screw holes for several times over, especially since the screws are so long, but if you plan on assembling and reassembling this bed repeatedly, you should look into purchasing brackets designed for headboards to connect to side rails.

Hope this helps! Ana

eli (not verified)

Mon, 01/18/2010 - 15:36

One more question...
When you say 4 1/2" screw, you mean Lag Bolt right? I've been to many stores and they do not make a
4 1/2 screw.
Thanks

Anonymous (not verified)

Sat, 01/23/2010 - 13:28

This site is amazing! Very excited to get my husband working on our new King bed! You make a great name for women - love your style and energy... fabulous blog!

Brandi (not verified)

Mon, 01/25/2010 - 10:22

Just finished making this bed and I just love it. Made a couple of simple mistakes but nothing that coildn't be fixed. Now it is time to paint.

eli (not verified)

Mon, 01/25/2010 - 13:52

I also just finished making the bed, I used treated 4x4's since the ceder and fir 4x4's were $40 a peice. Wondering if anyone has does this? For they seem pretty wet (not dried out yet) I'm wondering if I paint them (wet) will it affect anything? Rot or discoloring ect...It sure added a lot of weight.