Modern Farm Table

Submitted by Ana White on Mon, 11/23/2009 - 11:59
| Print this plan

This easy to build modern farm table plan will add that touch of rustic modern to your contemporary space. Plans also available for matching modern farm bench and square modern farm table. By Reader submitted photos.

grey modern farm table
modern farm table

30" High x 66" long x 32" wide (approximate)


Shopping List

6 - 2x6 boards (make sure these boards are VERY straight) (about $2.50 each)

5 - 2x2 board (under tabletop supports) (about $1 each)

2 - 2x4 boards (about $1 each)

2 1/2" wood self tapping screws

Sandpaper, ranging from coarse to fine

Wood Filler

Stain or Paint of choice

Common Materials
120 grit sandpaper
wood conditioner
paint brush
Cut List

A) 4 - 2x6 cut at 30" (Legs)

B) 2 - 2x2 cut at 33" (Inside End Supports)

C) 2 - 2x4 @ 63" (Side Apron)

D) 2 - 2x4 @ 25" (End Apron)

E) 7 - 2x2 cut at 33" (Under tabletop supports)

F) 6 - 2x6 cut at 63" (Tabletop pieces)

Cutting Instructions

It is very important that you measure the width of your boards and make sure they are 5 1/2" wide (tabletop boards) otherwise, your aprons could be short or long. See the Square Modern Farm Table Plans for a tutorial on how to build the tabletop first with pocket hole screws, and then attach the legs and aprons. That way you can adjust your aprons as necessary.

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander


Step 1

Start by taking 2 of the leg pieces, A and marking 1 1/2" down from the top, and 1 1/2" in from the outer edge. Then screw one of B, the outside end support, to the two legs as shown above. Do the same for the other set of legs.

Step 2

Now add the side aprons, C, as shown above, screwing into the end support, B. Also, screw through the outside of A, the legs, into the end edges of C, the side apron. Now is a good time to check for square. If you do not know how to check for square, see the HOW-TO section for a tutorial.

Step 3

Now add the end aprons, D, screwing into B, the end supports. Again, check for square.

Step 4

Measure down 1 1/2" down from the top of the side apron, and mark all the way down the length of the apron. This will be the top side of the tabletop support pieces, E. Then mark every 6" and place a board E, keeping the top edge 1 1/2" below the top of the table, as shown above. Do not worry about the last support piece not being exactly 6" from the end - this does not matter. Make sure your project is square.

Step 5

Step 6

Screw pattern for the tabletop pieces shown above.

Step 7

Flip the table over on it's top and predril through all the 2x2 support pieces, drilling two holes per tabletop piece, per support piece. You will drill a total of 108 holes. Screw the top to the 2x2 support pieces through the predrilled holes.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill holes with putty and finish as desired. If you are staining the table, you may wish to fill the screw holes after staining, as wood putty does not stain the same color as natural wood.


The Powells (not verified)

Sun, 01/10/2010 - 09:50

I am going to make this table! Oh I am so excited about your blog! We just bought a house and I can see so many possibilities for furniture now that I found your blog. :-) ah it makes my heart sing. My only request that you do a post just for beginners to give simple instructions on some of your terms or directions, ie how do I predrill holes? or how exactly do I use the wood putty? I have never built anything in my life so a post like that would be way helpful to me. :-) you are awesome and I am excited to start building things! AH!!

Christina (not verified)

Sun, 01/31/2010 - 12:28

My table legs don't feel as sturdy as they should. I followed directions but maybe I need to add more screws? Any advice. Other than that it looks good but I don't want it to wobble (its level but the legs don't feel strong).


Sun, 11/30/2014 - 10:37


Unfortunately, the 2 x6 legs are inherrently more unstable than a 3x3 or 4x4 post would be.  Other than adding additional screws or inserting diagonal or horizontal leg braces, I am uncertain if there is anything you can do at this point.  Sorry to rain on your parade :(    I typically steer away from plans that have 2x6 legs for this very reason.   


Fri, 08/07/2015 - 16:35


Can you tell me what other adjustments to the measurment and cuts would be neccessary to accomaadte 3x3 post legs insead of the 2x6 as listed in these plans. Is it just a matter of also adding thicker aprons to fit flush with these wider legs? thanks for any help....


Sun, 11/30/2014 - 11:30


I was wondering if you applied wood glue in all of your joints in addition to the screws?  A great wood glue will make all the difference in the world.  

AdronsCatherine (not verified)

Sun, 01/31/2010 - 14:50

I just discovered your blog this afternoon, and am SOOOOOO inspired!!! I have been driving myself crazy trying to find storage solutions for my sewing room, wanting a nice bed to go with the king size mattress set we just bought, and the need to replace a worn out hand-me-down kitchen table. I am more than just a little intimidated by the whole process, but you make it look doable!

Would it be possible to build this table longer by adding more supports? We have 5 kids and need to be able to seat more than 8 people if we have ANYONE over ;o) I love that it doesn't have a stretcher for the kiddos to climb on lol!

Ana White (not verified)

Mon, 02/01/2010 - 16:56

Hi Cristina, I haven't had any complaints about sturdiness from anyone else, so I think the plan is fine. I would try adding more screws, even try screwing from an angle from the bottom corners of the aprons up into the legs so the screws are hidden. Make sure you take a square before doing this.

Also, I encourage you to go wobble your existing table. You are always more critical of what you build than what you buy.

If there is still a wobble, you can corner brace the legs with either metal 90 degree corners or a piece of wood cut at an angle (check out the underside of a table to see how corners are braced).

Kate Bailey (not verified)

Tue, 02/02/2010 - 09:53

Ana, I love this table! I want to make it a little wider though, so it fits better in my dining room.... more like 4 feet x 6 feet. I can figure out how to adjust the cuts, but do you think I'll have any problems with support if it's larger? I'm thinking if I do the benches, I'll have them be on the shorter sides of the table and put chairs on the longer sides so I don't have to worry about them being able to support the extra weight. Anyway, let me know if you think I'd run into a problem with this... if not, I'm going to give it a try!

Free Plans Made Possible By Our Sponsors