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Farmhouse Bed (Twin Size)

farmhouse bed twin sized boy room painted blue
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Intermediate
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If you are looking for a classic farmhouse style bed for your child's room, this is the project for you. Featuring simple styling, large headboard and footboard tops, substantial legs, sturdy siderails, and the option to go with or without a boxspring, this beautiful bed is definitely worth your sweat! 

Step by step plans with diagrams and lots of readers submitted photos.  Check out all our Farmhouse Bed plans here.

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No Pocket Hole Plans
farmhouse bed with trundle

Reader submitted photo by KELLI224

This plan has been updated.  If you need the old plans, we have them available here.

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Farmhouse Bed (Twin Size)

Dimensions
farmhouse bed dimensions diagram ana white plans
Fits twin sized mattress

Preparation

Shopping List

3 - 1x6 @ 8 feet long

1 - 1x6 @ 4 feet long

2 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long

2 - 4x4 @ 8 feet long

1 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long

4 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long

2 - 2x6 @ 8 feet long

2 - 1x10 @ 8 feet long

6 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long

2 - 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" L brackets

2 - 3" long straight mending plate brackets

Common Materials
2 1/2 inch screws
1 1/4 inch finish nails
Elmer's Wood Glue
Elmer's Wood Filler
Cut List

HEADBOARD

  • 7 - 1x6 @ 30"
  • 2 - 1x4 @ ~38-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
  • 2 - 4x4 @ 54" 
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 30"
  • 2 - 2x4 @ ~45-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 47-1/2"

FOOTBOARD

  • 7 - 1x6 @ 15"
  • 2 - 1x4 @ ~38-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
  • 2 - 4x4 @ 21"
  • 4 - 2x2 @ 5-1/2" 
  • 2 - 2x4 @ ~45-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 47-1/2"

BED FRAME & SIDERAILS

  • 2 - 2x4 @ 80"
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 8-1/2"
  • 2 - 1x10 @ 75"
  • 12 - 1x3 @ 38-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

 

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the 1x6 headboard boards with a miter saw (preferred) or circular saw with straight edge.

Lay out as shown in diagram.

Measure the overall width.

 

POCKET HOLE USERS: You can join the 1x6 boards together edge to edge with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Attach 1x4 on top and bottom, with all outside edges flush, with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.

Make sure the panel is square (not a parallelogram) by taking outside corner diagonal measurements and adjusting until the two opposite diagonals measurements match.

POCKET HOLE USERS: Drill two 3/4" pocket holes on each end of the 1x4 boards.  Attach to the 4x4 legs with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.  Then nail the 1x6 boards to the 1x4s.

Step 3

Use 2-1/2" screws to attach the 2x2 cleats to the inside back edge of the 4x4 legs.

POCKET HOLE USERS: Skip this step.

Step 4

Attach panels to the 2x2 cleats with 2-1/2" screws and 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.

POCKET HOLE USERS: Skip this step.

Step 5

Measure and cut the top 2x4.  Attach with 2-1/2" screws and glue.

Step 6

Place 2x6 on top of 2x4.  Make sure all outside edge overhangs are even.

Screw on with 2-1/2" screws and glue.

Step 7

Repeat the same steps for building the footboard panel.

Step 8

If using the cleats for attaching, leave a space in the cleats as shown for accepting the bed frame in later steps.

Step 9

Attach footboard panel as you did the headboard panel to the legs.

Step 10

Repeat steps to finish top of footboard.

Step 11

Attach 2x4 cleats to the 4x4 legs with 2-1/2" screws.

The spacer blocks are not attached and are just used as guides for setting up the bed.

Step 12

Place sidreails on cleats and attach with glue and 1-1/4" brad nails.

Also recommended is attaching with an L bracket and a straight bracket at tops.  Pocket hole users can use a 3/4" pocket hole and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 13

Lay slats in bed frame, space evenly.  Screw down with 2" screws or 1-1/4" brad nails.

Project Type
Beds and Bed Frames
Twin Beds and Twin Bed Frames
Room
Bedroom
Style
Farmhouse Furniture
Children's and Kid's Room Furniture and Toy Plans

Comments

Melissa (not verified)

Thu, 12/30/2010 - 19:12

A few things to keep in mind if you are building this twin bed for a wiggly sleeper..

First let me say this was my first experience building, and I had a great time. (although it did take me a while to fit this in between work, kids, soccer, etc!) I built this bed for my 3 1/2 year old who falls out of bed regularly. When the headboard and footboard are flush with the wall, the space between the siderail and the wall are great enough that my son can fall between the bed and the wall. My 5 year old outgrew falling out of his bed and I assume my little one will too, so for now I have solved this problem with a very firm pillow stuffed in the space. If you have plans for siderails that can be easily attached I would love them.
Also, I am living in the south and can tell you 4x4's were impossible to find unless I wanted Yellawood. Not comfortable using chemically treated wood for my toddlers bed, so we went with two 2x4's nailed and glued together. They worked fine.

Teresa (not verified)

Sat, 01/01/2011 - 13:23

We would LOVE to make this for our daughters who share a room and this is almost identical to the bunk beds we were planing on purchasing. How would you modify the farmhouse bed to bunk beds? To come apart later for twin beds after we move. I just glanced through the previous posts so I'm sorry if it was mentioned before.

Pottery Barn O… (not verified)

Fri, 01/07/2011 - 06:09

[...] was originally $499 and today it is marked down to $299… but for way less than that you can build your own with Ana White’s Knock-Off Wood plans. I guess if you have no tools and don’t like to build furniture (and it’s not as hard [...]

Lindsey (not verified)

Sat, 01/08/2011 - 12:39

Ana, we can't wait to finish this! We finished cutting and sanding the boards for this bed today and are hoping to get it together tomorrow. Would you suggest painting the boards before assembling or after the bed is together? We are going to be using a crisp white with no distressing (for a little girls room!) Can't wait to share our results! Thanks!

john (not verified)

Thu, 02/10/2011 - 16:14

i have a question... hopefully someone can answer... with this bed ( twin ) when attatching the "legs" to the headboard .. how many 4.5" screws are being used... can someone please give me an idea .. i am done but don't want to do "final" assembly..... i jused 4 --- 2 on each side.

Natalie&Morgan (not verified)

Fri, 05/13/2011 - 08:39

i just used 6 per leg.. 3 at the top of the panel, and 3 at the bottom of the panel.. just in 1 vertical line so it screwed into the sandwiched panel.. i could only find 4" screws (i looked in every single hardware/metal store in town !) so i just sunk the screws about 1/2 an inch into the post.. and it is SOO sturdy !

smalls444

Mon, 04/04/2011 - 13:02

Hi Ana,

Just curious if it would be possible to modify the farmhouse bed into bunk beds?  I was thinking of something like the Simple Bunk Beds, only using the Farmhouse design instead??  What do you think?

mom@home (not verified)

Thu, 04/07/2011 - 17:29

I love this bed! But I need two and would love for them to be able to convert to a bunk bed. Do you have plans for this farm house twin bed that are for bunk beds?
 

ShelleyP (not verified)

Mon, 05/02/2011 - 22:49

I was looking at all the comments hoping to see something about bunk beds and the last 2 are exactly that! I want to make this into bunk beds as well! Do you think you'll do plans for this?

Areka (not verified)

Tue, 05/10/2011 - 23:31

I an interested in making this with a trundle underneath as well and could not get the link you mentioned in the comments (above) to work. Is there an updated link? Thanks!!

Natalie&Morgan (not verified)

Fri, 05/13/2011 - 07:57

i am in the process of making the farmhouse, in full size, for my daughter.. needs to be finished for her bday on sunday..

i like the idea of the side rail cleats in this tutorial, so we can adjust the height for storage, but i dont understand how to convert the measurements from twin to full (this is my first build)..

so could anyone please provide me with the measurements of the cuts needed to make side rail cleats for a full/double size bed.. (cuts k,l & m) thanks !

Michelle C (not verified)

Sun, 05/22/2011 - 23:15

The 2 x 2 selection at our Lowes is pitiful. They are all cracked and warped. I thought I might use 2 x 4's for the slats instead. How far apart would it be best to place those for a twin bed? Just wondering! Thank you so much for these beautiful plans.
Michelle

Saadia (not verified)

Mon, 06/13/2011 - 23:43

Hello Ana and everyone,

I am interested in making this bed for my 3 1/2 year old daughter. However, I am concerned about the fact that the bed does not fit flush against a wall along the side. My daughter is still young and I don't want to worry about her falling in the side. Is there anyway to modify the bed so that the the bed rails are attached closer to the outer edge of the headboard/footboard posts. I am very new to building so I don't know if this modification would make the bed less sturdy or otherwise wouldn't work?

Thanks!

Jeff (not verified)

Fri, 02/17/2012 - 10:54

It doesn't look to me that you would want to attach the side rails further out. One possibility would be to cut a piece of foam rubber to fill up the gap.

Saadia (not verified)

Thu, 03/01/2012 - 22:13

Hi Jeff,

Would you mind explaining why that would be a problem? I understand that I would need to adjust the width of the headboard/footboard to make it work so that the mattress still fits properly, but since I am new to building, I just want to make sure that I don't do anything to mess up the structure and stability of the bed! I hope to make this for my daughter and want to make sure it's still safe! Plus I hate to have wasted space in any room and having the bed not flush against the wall is just wasted space!

Thanks for your help!
Saadia

guest (not verified)

Mon, 08/01/2011 - 08:54

I am in the process of building this bed for my daughter. Although ive had a few set backs its coming along. When attaching the panel to the legs someone please tell me what screws to use. I told my husband i thought we needed to use 4 1/2 screws and pre drill in the 4x4 but he seems to think it will split the 1x4 please help...

WVUBAKER

Sun, 09/11/2011 - 18:15

I've got most of the bed finished... but I'm having a hard time understanding the directions on attaching the siderails. I bout the rail connectors from Rockler that everyone has talked about. Do I attach these connectors to the Siderails or to the cleats? I'm confused.

Thanks!

Tasha Cordel (not verified)

Thu, 02/02/2012 - 17:57

Hey there,

I am just about to finish this bed...but really wondering what the best way to do the siderails is. Any chance you would share with me what you did?
Thnx
Tasha

littleislandgirl

Fri, 09/30/2011 - 16:26

Saw a few posts from military families that are constantly on the move and need beds to break down easily and still be sturdy when you reach the next duty station. Found some bed brackets that help with break down and easy set up for you or the movers:
Surface Mounted Keyhole Bed Rail Brackets

This set got the best ratings and seems to be the easiest to use!!

Thanks Ana for this website. I have a list of projects that I want to get started on and a few friends requesting pieces. As a military wife who constantly moves it is wonderful to have nice things that are easily fixed and doesn't make my heart stop because something really expensive got damaged in the move.

Aprince60

Sun, 01/31/2016 - 05:24

This may be a silly question, but I'm a bit confused! I'm planning to make the headboard and footboard, but then use metal bedrails for ease of disassembling the bed when needed. Question: I've seen discussions re: rockler (or similar brand) bed rail brackets. If you use these, you still have to make the siderails to connect, right? And then if you use these, how do you get a boxspring to set in the frame? Sorry, so many questions for a probably simple thing!

Dexter (not verified)

Wed, 10/05/2011 - 11:13

Would it be possible for you to update the material list? i don't see how the 3 in screws will go through the 4x4's and attach to the panel. In the Queen version you call for 4-1/2 screws but not here. Any idea of how many each? you had posted 20 for the 4-1/2' but indicate you need 6 in each post for the foot board and headboard - that's at least 24. grreat plans by the way, just need an update on list!

Thanks.

Candace (not verified)

Wed, 10/26/2011 - 20:06

I stumbled across your site today while searching for plans to build a bed like the Ashby from Pottery Barn. Like many people on this site, I have Pottery Barn taste on a Walmart Budget. Any chance you'd be willing to check her out and consider posting queen-size plans for it? Its similar to some of the reclaimed and farmhouse styles up on this site, but different in that the headboard is curved. Thanks alot and keep up the good work!

Candace

noviceman

Sat, 11/12/2011 - 09:38

printed out these plans and print sosmall I cant read them.,.most of the plans have a PRINTER FRIENDLY app to click on...didnt see one for these plans..Please help..thanks

Sandie

Thu, 01/12/2012 - 12:24

I had the same issue with it, and decided to copy & paste it into Word...worked very well for me.

Janis (not verified)

Fri, 12/23/2011 - 13:46

I have been asking "Santa" to bring me tools for Christmas for years and he finally listened. I have always wanted to build furniture and would love to make this the Farmhouse Bed for my grandaughter. Is this bed simple enough for a first project or should I set my sights a little lower to start? It looks simple enough but I know things are not always as they look. BTW, I just love this site!

ChristiV

Tue, 12/27/2011 - 00:35

I'm so thankful for finding your site, I came to you from Shanty 2 Sheik, and I found that site when I was on www.stumbleupon.com a few days ago.

We have four kids and a tight budget and I was looking for bunk bed plans for our boys a few months ago. I searched and searched but all I could find was a couple of sites who had bunk bed plans for sale. I didn't see a point in paying for professional plans being an beginner; I need tips and help....not just plans.

So I just want to say thanks so much for sharing your know-how for free and creating a community where fellow thrifty moms can try something new and help each other out. I can't wait to get started on projects and I'll be sure to post brags!

June (not verified)

Fri, 01/06/2012 - 19:18

In the process of making this bed. Thanks, Ana for the wonderful, detailed plans! I just wanted to comment that untreated 4x4s are nowhere to be found where we live in the Southern US. We tried both big chain stores (orange and blue) and called 2 local lumber yards. All said they've never carried non-pressure treated 4x4s. Our only option was 4x4 cedar posts at $15 each. Any suggestions on something else we could use for the 4x4s or a way to improvise when we build this bed again in a king size? Thanks so much!

Tasha Cordel (not verified)

Thu, 02/02/2012 - 18:00

What is the best way to attach the fram to the headboard and footboard? And then do I just screw the siderails to the frame from the inside. OR do I attach the siderails to the headboard and footboard using kreg pocketholes and then attach the frame? I am building this for a girlfriends' daughter..and want to make sure it lasts a long time without falling apart! Thanks for the help....ANYONE - PLEASE!!

Daniel Dube (not verified)

Sat, 02/11/2012 - 22:22

Hey everyone,

Getting ready to build this bed for my two daughters. I would like to set it up to have a trundle underneath. Does anyone have a recommendation on what size mattress to use for the trundle and how I should adjust the height? Also need the top bed to be adjusted to accommodate only a mattress, no box sprint. Any and all advice is welcome.

t00court

Fri, 08/22/2014 - 16:39

These are my exact questions as well. I want to build this with no box spring, and would like to accommodate a trundle bed as well.
Did you ever get answers to your question? Thanks for sharing.

Guest (not verified)

Sun, 03/04/2012 - 07:06

I noticed the Queen sized version of this bed has a link to a "printer friendly version", but this one does not...any chance you can add? Thanks!

Great site by the way!

Saadia (not verified)

Sun, 03/11/2012 - 13:29

Hi,

I was wondering if anyone has tried making this bed with 1/2 inch thick boards for the paneling on the headboard/footboard? I think the 4x4 posts and 1 x boards are too bulky (and heavy!) for what I am looking for. I found some 1/2 inch thick pine boards that I could use for the paneling and am trying to get a hold of a 3x3 or 2/4 for the posts. I am just concerned about when I attach the posts to the headboard. I'm afraid I'll split the 1/2 inch panel when I screw into it. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

roosta (not verified)

Sat, 03/17/2012 - 12:37

just finished building this bed. looks amazing but weighs a tonne! i have used 1x8's for the side rails with 2x2 cleats attached and 1x4 slats spaced every 3 1/2 inches. also used galvanized plates for brackets on the side rails in order to disassemble. thanks anna :-) awesome site. will post to brag board soon....

NHMama (not verified)

Tue, 07/10/2012 - 12:36

I am looking to do the exact same thing for my 2 yr old (no box spring/use galvanized brackets) - I'm wondering... could you tell me the clearance below the side rails? I'm thinking of cutting off some height to make it lower to the ground, but wanted to keep at least a 7" clearance.

Saadia (not verified)

Sun, 03/25/2012 - 12:33

Hello Everyone!

I am in the process of building this bed and am planning on using the Rockler brackets to attach the siderails to the legs of the bed. I was wondering how everyone adjusted the cleats to make this work. It seems like I would have to make the cleats a bit shorter than the length of the siderail to leave room to attach the brackets on the edges of the siderail. Just wondering if that's what everyone did!

Thanks!

Guest (not verified)

Fri, 04/06/2012 - 17:11

How much do you think this will cost to build?

CristinaCS (not verified)

Wed, 06/06/2012 - 16:08

Anybody out there able to comment on how much it cost to build this bed? Trying to figure out whether the cost of all that lumber will save me much in the long run...I think we already have most of the tools. ALso, how long did it take most of you to build? (another factor to consider) DH is pretty handy, but hasn't done anything with his tools in awhile.

Rob (not verified)

Thu, 07/12/2012 - 17:40

1. Twin size mattresses are 39" wide and these plans look like they are made for a 38 1/2" width. How is everyone fitting their twin mattress into this or what am I missing.

2. The plans call for 3" screws only. How do I attached the 2x4 frame to the 1x10 bed rails? If I use the 3" screws here it would go through both pieces of wood.

Thanks.

Rob (not verified)

Thu, 07/12/2012 - 19:10

Sorry, did some more research and found plenty of twin mattresses at 38". Shouldn't have trusted wikipedia.

The second question still stands.

sambenedetto7@…

Thu, 08/02/2012 - 05:54

i want to adjust the height of the bed. my goal is to be able to use under bed space for storage( maybe a 10" high basket) . I also do not want the mattress( i will be using a box spring) to "sit" above the end of footboard. please Ana , help! i want specific measurements prior to going to buy supplies. I have one week to get the details down . thank you

Michela (not verified)

Fri, 08/24/2012 - 15:09

Ciao a tutti, cerco questo letto ma le cifre qui in Italia sono esorbitanti, poi lo vedo qui proprio come lo vorrei....
Il tutorial però riporta misure che non riesco a tradurre in centimetri qualcuno potrebbe aiutarmi?
Grazie in anticipo!!

bethanysmom

Mon, 10/08/2012 - 16:44

any clue where to get them down here in the south that arent pressure treated?

bethanysmom

Mon, 10/08/2012 - 16:46

any clue where to get them down here in the south that arent pressure treated? anyone know if 84 lumber would have?

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!