Farmhouse Bed (Twin Size)

Submitted by Ana White on Mon, 07/15/2019 - 12:21
Difficulty
Intermediate
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If you are looking for a classic farmhouse style bed for your child's room, this is the project for you. Featuring simple styling, large headboard and footboard tops, substantial legs, sturdy siderails, and the option to go with or without a boxspring, this beautiful bed is definitely worth your sweat! 

Step by step plans with diagrams and lots of readers submitted photos.  Check out all our Farmhouse Bed plans here.

Collections
farmhouse bed twin sized boy room painted blue
farmhouse bed with trundle

Reader submitted photo by KELLI224

This plan has been updated.  If you need the old plans, we have them available here.

Dimensions
farmhouse bed dimensions diagram ana white plans
Fits twin sized mattress

Preparation

Shopping List

3 - 1x6 @ 8 feet long

1 - 1x6 @ 4 feet long

2 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long

2 - 4x4 @ 8 feet long

1 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long

4 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long

2 - 2x6 @ 8 feet long

2 - 1x10 @ 8 feet long

6 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long

2 - 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" L brackets

2 - 3" long straight mending plate brackets

Common Materials
2 1/2 inch screws
1 1/4 inch finish nails
Cut List

HEADBOARD

  • 7 - 1x6 @ 30"
  • 2 - 1x4 @ ~38-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
  • 2 - 4x4 @ 54" 
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 30"
  • 2 - 2x4 @ ~45-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 47-1/2"

FOOTBOARD

  • 7 - 1x6 @ 15"
  • 2 - 1x4 @ ~38-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
  • 2 - 4x4 @ 21"
  • 4 - 2x2 @ 5-1/2" 
  • 2 - 2x4 @ ~45-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 47-1/2"

BED FRAME & SIDERAILS

  • 2 - 2x4 @ 80"
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 8-1/2"
  • 2 - 1x10 @ 75"
  • 12 - 1x3 @ 38-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

 

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the 1x6 headboard boards with a miter saw (preferred) or circular saw with straight edge.

Lay out as shown in diagram.

Measure the overall width.

 

POCKET HOLE USERS: You can join the 1x6 boards together edge to edge with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Attach 1x4 on top and bottom, with all outside edges flush, with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.

Make sure the panel is square (not a parallelogram) by taking outside corner diagonal measurements and adjusting until the two opposite diagonals measurements match.

POCKET HOLE USERS: Drill two 3/4" pocket holes on each end of the 1x4 boards.  Attach to the 4x4 legs with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.  Then nail the 1x6 boards to the 1x4s.

Step 3

Use 2-1/2" screws to attach the 2x2 cleats to the inside back edge of the 4x4 legs.

POCKET HOLE USERS: Skip this step.

Step 4

Attach panels to the 2x2 cleats with 2-1/2" screws and 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.

POCKET HOLE USERS: Skip this step.

Step 5

Measure and cut the top 2x4.  Attach with 2-1/2" screws and glue.

Step 6

Place 2x6 on top of 2x4.  Make sure all outside edge overhangs are even.

Screw on with 2-1/2" screws and glue.

Step 7

Repeat the same steps for building the footboard panel.

Step 8

If using the cleats for attaching, leave a space in the cleats as shown for accepting the bed frame in later steps.

Step 9

Attach footboard panel as you did the headboard panel to the legs.

Step 10

Repeat steps to finish top of footboard.

Step 11

Attach 2x4 cleats to the 4x4 legs with 2-1/2" screws.

The spacer blocks are not attached and are just used as guides for setting up the bed.

Step 12

Place sidreails on cleats and attach with glue and 1-1/4" brad nails.

Also recommended is attaching with an L bracket and a straight bracket at tops.  Pocket hole users can use a 3/4" pocket hole and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 13

Lay slats in bed frame, space evenly.  Screw down with 2" screws or 1-1/4" brad nails.

Comments

Mollylizc

Sat, 07/11/2015 - 11:33

We are military too. I wonder what could be changed to make it more mover friendly?

In reply to by Mollylizc

Lady Goats

Sat, 07/11/2015 - 20:28

To make this mover friendly, just build the headboard, footboard, and slat section (you could build them attached to the sides) separately, and then use surface mount bed rail hardware to easily disassemble. I actually recommend using bed-rail hardware on any bed that you build, because it allows for movement between the headboard or footboard and the rails without pulling/straining the screws that connect them. Here's a link to some with great reviews. Click here. 

Kristin (not verified)

Sat, 01/09/2010 - 07:57

I deleted my previous comment after reading through some of your other posts. Mainly the TOOLS category! How long do the slats need to be to not use a boxspring?

Lissa (not verified)

Sat, 01/09/2010 - 09:35

SO gorgeous! I love this bed and everything about it! We don't have room in our bedroom right now for a bed frame for our king size bed but this is going into my "someday" folder. Love it!

Ana White (not verified)

Sat, 01/09/2010 - 10:57

KING SIZE STRATTON

I will be posting the diagrams to modify the bed to a king size today! I am listening!

Ana White (not verified)

Sat, 01/09/2010 - 11:05

SLATS FOR TWIN SIZED BED

For those of you who do not have a box spring, you can use 2x2s cut at 38 1/2". Just rest the 2x2s on the cleats and screw in place. You will only need a single screw to keep each slat in place on each end.

I would space the slats ever 1 1/2" , just because you might have little ones jumping on the bed. The easiest way to do this is to just use a scrap 2x2 (measures 1 1/2" wide) and hold it in place while you screw the next slat in place. Then remove the scrap and so on. You will need approximately 24 2x2s, so about 12 2x2 boards (these are cheap, about $1.50 each, you can buy them in bundles)

Also, if you are not using a box spring, this will affect the overall height of the mattress, moving the mattress down. To avoid an empty space under the headboard, you can either:

1. Shorten the legs of the headboard. Measure your mattress and determine how high it will sit on the headboard. Subtract the difference.

2. Higher the mattress. Simply attach the cleates higher on both the headboards and footboard. Please note that this will make your mattress higher.

3. Make your headboard panel longer. Just cut your panel pieces, the 1x6s, longer (instead of the 30"). Determine the extra length by measuring your mattress and determining how much empty space would be exposed, and add this amount to your panel pieces (so if 6" would be exposed, cut your panel pieces at 6")

LouLou@thelife… (not verified)

Sat, 01/09/2010 - 14:09

Ana!! Thank you for these plans! I only requested them a week or so ago!!! I can't wait to get started.... As soon as those trundle instructions are posted we're headed to Lowe's!

Jessica (not verified)

Mon, 01/11/2010 - 05:49

I just found your blog and I cannot even tell you how amazed and excited I am! I have been trying so hard to find two twin beds for my boys room and they are all so expensive so I was having no luck. I have no experience building, but I am a big DIY'er so I am so excited to try my luck with these beds.

Thanks SO much for posting!

TheOnesInColorado (not verified)

Sun, 01/17/2010 - 17:19

Wow - this is beautiful! I have been in love with this daybed
http://tinyurl.com/yz398y6

for my daughter and think that your Farmhouse bed might be just the thing. I think I could make one long "headboard" for the long back piece of the bed. How might you modify the sides for a daybed? Thank you so much for sharing!
Erika