Farmhouse Bed (Twin Size)

Submitted by Ana White on Mon, 07/15/2019 - 12:21
Difficulty
Intermediate
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If you are looking for a classic farmhouse style bed for your child's room, this is the project for you. Featuring simple styling, large headboard and footboard tops, substantial legs, sturdy siderails, and the option to go with or without a boxspring, this beautiful bed is definitely worth your sweat! 

Step by step plans with diagrams and lots of readers submitted photos.  Check out all our Farmhouse Bed plans here.

farmhouse bed twin sized boy room painted blue
farmhouse bed with trundle

Reader submitted photo by KELLI224

This plan has been updated.  If you need the old plans, we have them available here.

Dimensions
farmhouse bed dimensions diagram ana white plans
Fits twin sized mattress

Preparation

Shopping List

3 - 1x6 @ 8 feet long

1 - 1x6 @ 4 feet long

2 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long

2 - 4x4 @ 8 feet long

1 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long

4 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long

2 - 2x6 @ 8 feet long

2 - 1x10 @ 8 feet long

6 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long

2 - 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" L brackets

2 - 3" long straight mending plate brackets

Common Materials
2 1/2 inch screws
1 1/4 inch finish nails
Cut List

HEADBOARD

  • 7 - 1x6 @ 30"
  • 2 - 1x4 @ ~38-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
  • 2 - 4x4 @ 54" 
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 30"
  • 2 - 2x4 @ ~45-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 47-1/2"

FOOTBOARD

  • 7 - 1x6 @ 15"
  • 2 - 1x4 @ ~38-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
  • 2 - 4x4 @ 21"
  • 4 - 2x2 @ 5-1/2" 
  • 2 - 2x4 @ ~45-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 47-1/2"

BED FRAME & SIDERAILS

  • 2 - 2x4 @ 80"
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 8-1/2"
  • 2 - 1x10 @ 75"
  • 12 - 1x3 @ 38-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

 

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the 1x6 headboard boards with a miter saw (preferred) or circular saw with straight edge.

Lay out as shown in diagram.

Measure the overall width.

 

POCKET HOLE USERS: You can join the 1x6 boards together edge to edge with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Attach 1x4 on top and bottom, with all outside edges flush, with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.

Make sure the panel is square (not a parallelogram) by taking outside corner diagonal measurements and adjusting until the two opposite diagonals measurements match.

POCKET HOLE USERS: Drill two 3/4" pocket holes on each end of the 1x4 boards.  Attach to the 4x4 legs with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.  Then nail the 1x6 boards to the 1x4s.

Step 3

Use 2-1/2" screws to attach the 2x2 cleats to the inside back edge of the 4x4 legs.

POCKET HOLE USERS: Skip this step.

Step 4

Attach panels to the 2x2 cleats with 2-1/2" screws and 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.

POCKET HOLE USERS: Skip this step.

Step 5

Measure and cut the top 2x4.  Attach with 2-1/2" screws and glue.

Step 6

Place 2x6 on top of 2x4.  Make sure all outside edge overhangs are even.

Screw on with 2-1/2" screws and glue.

Step 7

Repeat the same steps for building the footboard panel.

Step 8

If using the cleats for attaching, leave a space in the cleats as shown for accepting the bed frame in later steps.

Step 9

Attach footboard panel as you did the headboard panel to the legs.

Step 10

Repeat steps to finish top of footboard.

Step 11

Attach 2x4 cleats to the 4x4 legs with 2-1/2" screws.

The spacer blocks are not attached and are just used as guides for setting up the bed.

Step 12

Place sidreails on cleats and attach with glue and 1-1/4" brad nails.

Also recommended is attaching with an L bracket and a straight bracket at tops.  Pocket hole users can use a 3/4" pocket hole and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 13

Lay slats in bed frame, space evenly.  Screw down with 2" screws or 1-1/4" brad nails.

Comments

Robert (not verified)

Mon, 01/18/2010 - 16:43

Wow this is a great. It was pretty easy to build once I got the gumption to start. I would recommend this design to any do it yourselfer. It looks great and is very strong.

The buy list is short a couple things for the twin size only.
1 2x6x8
1 1x6x8

I feel like the 4x4's should be pre-drilled all the way rather than half way. They just seem to fit better totally drilled and cinch up more completely.

Thank you for an excellent site and i plan on building more of these great designs.

Kristin (not verified)

Sat, 01/23/2010 - 15:39

I only found the list to be short one 1x6, but a 4 foot board will work instead of an 8 foot. Also for the 1x4s (that you nail the 1x6s to) the measurement is short about a 1/2 inch. Measure your 1x6 planks before cutting the 1x4 trim. Unfortunately I already cut all mine before I realized it, but fortunately I was in a fully equipped wood shop and just took my panels down with the table saw.

It is taking me MUCH longer than I thought it would (11 hours total so far!), but it is my very first project. I am also in a public wood shop and have had to wait on machines a little. With it being my first project, I can attest to the fact that nothing has been too difficult! I have done a few things a little different. I will post on that once I am finished with the bed.

I absolutely love it so far!!!

Ana White (not verified)

Sat, 01/23/2010 - 15:49

Hi Kristin, I 'm sorry to hear about your challenges. To avoid this in the future, it's a good idea to cut to measurement, like your recommended. The other thing to look out for is a different width in your 1x6 board. A standard 1x6 measures 3/4" x 5 1/2" , and 7 of these would measure exactly 38 1/2". If you purchased boards that were "off" even just an 1/8", over seven boards, you would be off almost 1".

Thanks for sharing your challenges!

Ana

Erin (not verified)

Tue, 01/26/2010 - 07:25

This is exactly what I have been wanting for my daughter but in a daybed form. Any ideas on how to make this twin farmhouse bed into a daybed??

Thanks! We're making the Stratton bed for our room too!

Jody (not verified)

Fri, 02/19/2010 - 18:42

Did the TWIN farm bed instructions dissappear?? I cannot find them for the life of me and the "Read More" is not popping up above the share button. Is there a direct link? I LOVE LOVE LOVE your site Ana, its my birthday on Monday and I told my husband I need some tools:)

meg (not verified)

Sun, 02/21/2010 - 09:25

Went and bought all my wood on Friday. Started cutting today and realized the wood list is short one 1x6x8. Just back from Lowes with another board. Hoping this is the last trip there today.

Kristin (not verified)

Fri, 02/26/2010 - 09:37

I built this bed! I thought some of you might like to know the approximate cost. I live in north Florida and the lumber cost me about $95. I made my slats as described on the plans for the Simple Bed. I used whitewood board. I didn't have to buy nails, screws, or glue. So $95 for the lumber...not bad!

FYI for all military out there: Lowes (at least mine) gives a 10% military discount! Not much when you run in for paint, but a considerable amount when you buy $100 in lumber! The $95 mentioned about is without the discount.

lindsy (not verified)

Tue, 03/02/2010 - 21:29

Hi Ana
I'm going to start building 2 of these tomorrow. It sounds like you can use the metal frame instead of the cleats (with a boxspring) ... how exactly do you do this? Do you screw the metal frame to the rails so the boxspring sits on the metal frame??
Thanks