Farmhouse Table - Updated Pocket Hole Plans

Submitted by Ana White on Fri, 08/23/2019 - 14:53
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Free plans to build a Farmhouse Table. This table has been built tens of thousands of times and is loved the world over for it's basic material composition, simple clean lines, easy to build steps, and sturdy, functional size.  Our step by step plans with diagrams make it easy.

This plan uses pocket holes and is the updated plan.  We also have this plan available to build without pocket holes.

farmhouse table

Built by Hillary at The Friendly Home, we upgraded the farmhouse table for pocket hole joinery (no visibile fasteners) and easier construction.

Hillary made this table with pocket holes instead of adding the 2x2 supports as done in the original plan, saving a ton of cuts and holes to be drilled, which saves time and money.

Also, by using pocket holes, we hide most all of the screw holes, so a beautiful stained finish like Hillary's is very easy to do.

The easy to do pocket hole plan follows if you want to build this table.

And as always, Hillary delivers a beautiful finish, and you can get all the details on how Hillary finished her table here. I love the stain color and will have to try it as well!

PS - Don't have a pocket hole jig? Here's the original Farmhouse Table Plans.

PSS - Have trouble finding 4x4s? Check out this beginner friendly 2 Tool/$50 Farmhouse Table plans

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Farmhouse Table Pin

farmhouse table plans
Dimensions shown above.


Shopping List
  • 4 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 4x4 @ 10 feet long
  • 4 - 2x8 @ 6 feet long
  • 1 - 2x8 @ 8 feet long (breadboard ends)
  • 1 - 2x10 @ 6 feet long
Common Materials
Cut List
  • 4 - 4x4 posts @ 29" (legs)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 67" (long aprons)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 27" (short aprons)
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 74" (stretcher)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 34" (stretcher supports)
  • 4 - 2x8 @ 70.5" (table top planks)
  • 1 - 2x10@ 70-1/2" (center table top plank -- I had to use one 2x10 to get the right overall width)
  • 2 - 2x8 ~38" (breadboard ends -- measure your joined tabletop before cutting these)
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Kreg Jig
Circular Saw
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!


Step 1

First, cut and notch out the 4x4s. If you can get your home improvement store to make square cuts, ask them to cut your 4x4s. Otherwise, you'll need a 12" (maybe a 10" will work too) miter saw or set your circular saw to the deepest possible cut. Cut one side, flip the 4x4 and finish the cut on the bottom side. Sand until cut is smooth. You'll probably add cork or felt pads under the legs later on to level table up and protect your floor.

Then notch out the stretcher joint as shown in diagram. Definitely practice first on a scrap if you can. This is easier to do than it looks - just be sure to get the top and bottom cut right, and it will all work out!

Step 2

Notch out the stretcher support board first, then attach to the 4x4s. Remember the screws will show here, so drill in pattern. Use 3" screws to attach.

Do both ends.

Step 3

Then add your top aprons with 1 1/2" pocket holes and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws.

NOT SHOWN: Drill 1 1/2" pocket holes on the insides of your aprons facing upward for later attaching the the tabletop too. Drill three holes per end apron.

Step 4

Now attach the two ends together to create your table frame.

NOT SHOWN: Drill 1 1/2" pocket holes on the insides of your aprons facing upward for later attaching the the tabletop too. Drill five holes per side apron.

Step 5

Attach base stretcher with pocket holes underneath.

Step 6

Now start building your tabletop.

Step 7

Measure and cut your breadboard ends to fit and attach to tabletop.

Step 8

Then attach the base to the tabletop through predrilled 1 1/2" pocket holes with 2 1/2" pocket hole screws.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.



Mon, 12/01/2014 - 19:07

You might want to use glue on the boards prior to screwing them together. Once you have them glued and screwed, let them set for a little before handling them so the glue has some time to bond. You can get glue that is quick setting. 


Thu, 02/07/2013 - 08:34

I need to extend this to be longer for the holidays... For the holidays we have at least 12 adults so I need to make leaves to accommodate.... Already thinking of making the table longer for everyday. Please help as I am going to start this project next weekend since it is a 3 day weekend for me :) Thank you!


Sun, 05/12/2013 - 15:47

Hi! Has anyone put a table like this outdoors? How has it held up?

I noticed on other plans people mentioned using cedar (which we didn't see). We are able to put the top of the table together and wish we had researched more!

We plan to use an outdoor plan and water-based seal. Anything else we can do to help it wear less?



Wed, 05/15/2013 - 10:16

The tabletop went together smooth, but when I went to attach the breadboard ends, they don't seem to fit as snug as the boards side by side. Did anyone else have issues with loose breadboard ends? I purchased metal plate fasteners that I'm going to attach on the underside of the table where the breadboard ends connect to the table top.


Tue, 06/18/2013 - 13:12

Has anyone made this table without the stretchers? Would it be secure enough? I love the look of the Tryde Coffee table as a dining room table and I'm thinking this plan would be easier to modify than the coffee table plan... thoughts?


Sun, 06/30/2013 - 09:32

I am curious if anyone has experienced problems due to differential expansion between the breadboard ends and the main body of the table?

Wood expands and contracts due to changes in humidity. The effect is greater across the grain than along the grain so the main body of the table will expand and contract more than the ends. This type of the table is probably the most common example of what differential expansion is and how to deal with it. If not properly dealt with, this expansion can cause the wood to split or deform.

Most fine woodworking versions of this type of table make the ends wider than the main table, and attach the ends in a loos fashion, such as as pegs in elongated holes, so that they can can move.


Tue, 07/30/2013 - 21:24

I have always dreamed of having a farmhouse table like this! When I found these plans I was SO excited. Then I won't fit. My teeny tiny dining area is about a foot longer than the size of the table. So, I was wondering is there a way this can be made to extend? Maybe a 4x4 foot square table with 1 foot extensions on the end or a leaf or something?! When I have company I turn the table the other direction and it run into my living room (its all one long space). I like the length for company but on a regular basis it just doesn't fit. Any suggestions?


Thu, 08/01/2013 - 07:10

More often, woodworking projects are expensive in nature, so you must plan your budget beforehand, and consult an experienced contractor that can understand and fulfill your requirements within your pocket size.

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