Farmhouse Table - Updated Pocket Hole Plans

Submitted by Ana White on Fri, 08/23/2019 - 14:53
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Free plans to build a Farmhouse Table. This table has been built tens of thousands of times and is loved the world over for it's basic material composition, simple clean lines, easy to build steps, and sturdy, functional size.  Our step by step plans with diagrams make it easy.

This plan uses pocket holes and is the updated plan.  We also have this plan available to build without pocket holes.

farmhouse table

Built by Hillary at The Friendly Home, we upgraded the farmhouse table for pocket hole joinery (no visibile fasteners) and easier construction.

Hillary made this table with pocket holes instead of adding the 2x2 supports as done in the original plan, saving a ton of cuts and holes to be drilled, which saves time and money.

Also, by using pocket holes, we hide most all of the screw holes, so a beautiful stained finish like Hillary's is very easy to do.

The easy to do pocket hole plan follows if you want to build this table.

And as always, Hillary delivers a beautiful finish, and you can get all the details on how Hillary finished her table here. I love the stain color and will have to try it as well!

PS - Don't have a pocket hole jig? Here's the original Farmhouse Table Plans.

PSS - Have trouble finding 4x4s? Check out this beginner friendly 2 Tool/$50 Farmhouse Table plans

Dimensions
farmhouse table plans
Dimensions shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 4 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 4x4 @ 10 feet long
  • 4 - 2x8 @ 6 feet long
  • 1 - 2x8 @ 8 feet long (breadboard ends)
  • 1 - 2x10 @ 6 feet long
Common Materials
Cut List
  • 4 - 4x4 posts @ 29" (legs)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 67" (long aprons)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 27" (short aprons)
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 74" (stretcher)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 34" (stretcher supports)
  • 4 - 2x8 @ 70.5" (table top planks)
  • 1 - 2x10@ 70-1/2" (center table top plank -- I had to use one 2x10 to get the right overall width)
  • 2 - 2x8 ~38" (breadboard ends -- measure your joined tabletop before cutting these)
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Power Sander
Level
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

First, cut and notch out the 4x4s. If you can get your home improvement store to make square cuts, ask them to cut your 4x4s. Otherwise, you'll need a 12" (maybe a 10" will work too) miter saw or set your circular saw to the deepest possible cut. Cut one side, flip the 4x4 and finish the cut on the bottom side. Sand until cut is smooth. You'll probably add cork or felt pads under the legs later on to level table up and protect your floor.

Then notch out the stretcher joint as shown in diagram. Definitely practice first on a scrap if you can. This is easier to do than it looks - just be sure to get the top and bottom cut right, and it will all work out!

Step 2

Notch out the stretcher support board first, then attach to the 4x4s. Remember the screws will show here, so drill in pattern. Use 3" screws to attach.

Do both ends.

Step 3

Then add your top aprons with 1 1/2" pocket holes and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws.

NOT SHOWN: Drill 1 1/2" pocket holes on the insides of your aprons facing upward for later attaching the the tabletop too. Drill three holes per end apron.

Step 4

Now attach the two ends together to create your table frame.

NOT SHOWN: Drill 1 1/2" pocket holes on the insides of your aprons facing upward for later attaching the the tabletop too. Drill five holes per side apron.

Step 5

Attach base stretcher with pocket holes underneath.

Step 6

Now start building your tabletop.

Step 7

Measure and cut your breadboard ends to fit and attach to tabletop.

Step 8

Then attach the base to the tabletop through predrilled 1 1/2" pocket holes with 2 1/2" pocket hole screws.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Help Improve This Plan

We apologize if there was an error in this plan. Please help us out and report any errors here.

Comments

Sarah @ ROR (not verified)

Mon, 11/12/2012 - 12:31

So gorgeous and clean! I just started reading your site a month ago and keep coming back for more. I featured you on my blog today as a huge source of inspiration for me. (rain-on-roses.blogspot.com) Congrats on the book, I'm so happy for you!

MattVD (not verified)

Mon, 11/19/2012 - 11:09

I decided to make a farmhouse table using your plans 2 weeks back, but decided to adjust the plans for pocket holes. After I had already started, you posted this update!! Happy to see that I pretty much made the adjustments you did and now my table looks great! Thanks for putting these plans out there!

In reply to by MattVD (not verified)

stevenleerson

Wed, 05/27/2015 - 17:27

You can construct your own farmhouse table made of planks of solid reclaimed pine, this farmhouse table expands to seat up to 8 people. Bearing the knots and imperfections from its previous life, every piece is subtly distinct.

But you can modify this plan to your desired measurements & appearance:

- 60"w x 38"d x 31"h. (Comfortably seats up to 6; up to 8 when expanded to 80"w.)
- Expands to 80"w with drop-in leaf.
- Solid reclaimed pine in a weathered finish.
- A .5 cm gap in the apron between the extension and the table allows the solid wood to naturally expand and contract.

To match your newly-built farmhouse table with bench, here's another plan: http://ana-white.com/2011/01/plans/farmhouse-bench

Chris G (not verified)

Mon, 11/26/2012 - 08:13

Hi Ana! So I am in NJ, and I am having the hardest time finding any 2 x lumber other than Doug Fir Framing Wood. I read that most folks are using Dried Southern Pine, but they only have 1x of that here.

Can I glue the 1x's together face to face, or should I use the Framing Lumber? Any help would be really appreciated!

Thanks,
Chris

Sandy Tull (not verified)

Wed, 11/28/2012 - 11:38

In a previous design there were extentions for the table to add I believe 15 more inches per end. I cannot find that plan, can you help?
Thanks,
Sandy

Sandy Tull (not verified)

Wed, 11/28/2012 - 11:38

In a previous design there were extentions for the table to add I believe 15 more inches per end. I cannot find that plan, can you help?
Thanks,
Sandy

Vince (not verified)

Fri, 11/30/2012 - 14:18

Has anyone built this and run into a problem with seats at the end, not pushing in enough to actually eat at the table? I'm using this plan to build my own table to seat 10 in a couple of weeks and was curious if someone had any ideas on how to solve that problem? Thanks, love the plan!