Plywood Gift Crate (man crate)

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Build this crate and fill it with gifts, nail the top on, and present it along with a crowbar to open it! Who wouldn't have fun opening a gift with a crowbar?

Unlike girly frilly gift baskets, this is a “Manly” gift crate that you have to open with a crowbar. How fun is that? Build a plywood gift crate from some scrap plywood and craft boards. This is my interpretation of the popular “mancrate”. Inspiration : mancrates.com

Build this crate and fill it with gifts, nail the top on, and present it along with a crowbar to open it! Who wouldn’t have fun opening a gift with a crowbar?

This can be made from scrap wood or you can make the whole crate from one 2’ x 2’ plywood piece and 16 feet of ¼” x 1 ½” craft board (about $15 for wood). This plan shows measurements using both ¾” plywood and ½” plywood. Prototypes made from both sizes are shown. Instead of craft board, you can substitute lattice or you could cut 1 ½” wide strips of ¼” plywood. I’m showing pictures of it done with craft board and with 1/4" plywood strips. Nail it shut with something like these:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_58185-37672-532407_0__?productId=3036018&Ntt=wi…¤tURL=%3FNtt%3Dwire%2Bnails&facetInfo=

And when you present the gift, give a crowbar also for prying it open:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_117699-16878-62897_0__?productId=4777013&Ntt=pr…¤tURL=%3FNtt%3Dpry%2Bbar&facetInfo=

I’m hoping my hubby and son like these crates! I’m planning an entertainment theme with some of their faves – mugs or things from their favorite sports teams, DVDs, popcorn, favorite homemade candy, that kind of thing. I’m thinking of making myself one too -- a “ma’am” crate ;) (heeeheee) A .pdf copy of the plan is attached just below the General Instructions section. I hope you build this, and post a brag picture! This was a fun project!

NOTE: Project calculator: I’ve created an Excel file to calculate the cut list based on desired crate size, thickness of wood and trim, and width of trim. To use it, just fill in the #s in the yellow highlighted fields, and the spreadsheet will do the rest! I wasn't able to attach the Excel file to the plan (screenshot of it is attached), but if you send me (JoanneS) a note through the Contacts -- I’ll reply and email it to you.

Happy Building!

12" L, 12" W, 7 1/4" H (3/4" plywood), 12" L, 12" W, 6 3/4" H (1/2" plywood)

Preparation

Shopping List

1 pc ½” or ¾” plywood @ 2’ x 2’

4 pc ¼” x 1 ½” x 4’ poplar craft board

OR two 8’ sticks of ¼” x 1 ½” pine lattice

OR 1 pc ¼’ plywood @ 2’ x 2’, cut 8 strips, 1 ½” wide, (this will use half of the piece)

1 ¼” wire nails (for attaching the top -- you want these nails to be removable)

1 – 7” pry bar ( for opening up the sealed crate)

Finishing materials for desired finish

Supplies list:

Miter saw

Circular saw or table saw

Nailgun and hammer

Sander or sandpaper

Measuring tape

Wood Glue

1 ¼” finish nails

5/8” brad nails

Finishing materials as desired

Cut List

Crate dimensions: 12” L x 12” W x 6 ¾” H

½” plywood:
2 pc @ 5 ½” x 10 ½” (sides)
2 pc @ 5 ½” x 11 ½” (front/back)
1 pc @ 11 ½” x 11 ½” (bottom)
1 pc @ 12” x 12” (top)

¼” x 1 ½” craft board/trim:
Crate:
4 pc @ 12” (front/back upper & lower trims)
4 pc @ 11 ½” (side upper & lower trims)
8 pc @ 3” (side upright trims) (measure and cut to fit)
Top:
2 pc @ 12” (front/back trims)
2 pc @ 9” (side trims)

Cut list for ¾” plywood:

Crate dimensions: 12” L x 12” W x 7 ¼” H

½” plywood:
2 pc @ 5 ½” x 10 ” (sides)
2 pc @ 5 ½” x 11 ½” (front/back)
1 pc @ 11 ½” x 11 ½” (bottom)
1 pc @ 12” x 12” (top)

¼” x 1 ½” craft board/trim:
Crate:
4 pc @ 12” (front/back upper & lower trims)
4 pc @ 11 ½” (side upper & lower trims)
8 pc @ 3 ¼” (side upright trims) (measure and cut to fit)
Top:
2 pc @ 12” (front/back trims)
2 pc @ 9” (side trims)

Cutting Instructions

Cut lists for 3/4" and 1/2" plywood are included.

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Hammer
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Circular Saw
Miter Saw
Table Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Attach sides between front and back as shown. Use glue and 1 ¼” finish nails.

Step 2

Attach bottom to box, keeping outside edges flush. Use glue and 1¼” finish nails.

Step 3

Attach upper and lower trim to sides of box, keeping top and outside edges flush. Use glue and 5/8” brad nails.

Step 4

Attach upright trims to sides of box, keeping outside edges flush. You should measure and cut these to fit. Use glue and 5/8” brad nails.

Step 5

Step 6

Attach upright trim to front and back of box, keeping outside edges flush. You should measure and cut these to fit. Use glue and 5/8” brad nails.

Step 7

Attach front and back trim to box top, keeping outside edges flush. Use glue and 5/8” brad nails.

Step 8

Attach side trim to box top, keeping outside edges flush. Use glue and 5/8” brad nails.

Step 9

Sand piece to smooth cut edges and any rough spots. Finish as desired. You could leave unfinished if using as a “man crate”. If desired, you could stencil “Man Crate” or a fun caption on the side after sanding.

Step 10

To use this as a “Man crate”, after filling the box, attach the top using wire nails and a hammer. No glue is required here. These would work: http://www.lowes.com/pd_58185-37672-532407_0__?productId=3036018&Ntt=wi…¤tURL=%3FNtt%3Dwire%2Bnails&facetInfo=

Step 11

Use a crowbar to open the top of the box. You can also use it to remove the nails. This would work: http://www.lowes.com/pd_117699-16878-62897_0__?productId=4777013&Ntt=pr…¤tURL=%3FNtt%3Dpry%2Bbar&facetInfo=

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Finish Used
These "Man crates" are unfinished, just sanded smooth. You could stencil the outside if desired, or add paint or stain.

Comments

yurra-bazain

Tue, 11/12/2013 - 20:26

I am now feeling excited for Christmas if only to make a Man Crate to give my husband, crowbar and all! Best of all, if he doesn't want to open it, I can! Haha. =D Love your version of this neat idea! Putting this one of my "To Build" list.

JoanneS

Wed, 11/13/2013 - 18:03

Thanks Yvonne! Building these got me into the holiday spirit too! I started shopping for the gifts to fill these over the weekend. Can't wait to see what you build! These were really fun - now I'm thinking of ways I could use this type of crates for decorative storage too. I might make some and stain them gray, to hold stuff for my new work table (BTW- it's already broken in - there are some paint splotches on it ;)

Val Manchuk

Sat, 11/16/2013 - 23:09

This will make Christmas so much fun! My husband and two boys will be the lucky recipients of some Man Crates this year! Thanks for a cool idea!

Val
artsybuildinglady.blogspot.ca

In reply to by Val Manchuk

JoanneS

Sun, 11/17/2013 - 05:32

Thank you for the nice comment, Val! I've had a ball making these. Yesterday I built one with hardwood plywood for someone at work who is retiring next week. The team will be giving him his gifts in his very own man crate, and he'll have to use a crowbar at his retirement party (roast!) :) I think the folks are also going to sign the top. That will be fun!

ManCrates

Fri, 11/29/2013 - 09:33

Great minds must think alike. We're all about guys getting better gifts- thanks for putting together this DIY on how to build a Man Crate (TM). If we could add our expert advice- we'd advise sealing the crate with Gorilla wood glue (allow overnight to dry) or industrial hot glue instead of nails.
Nails pry off more easily, and exposed nail heads in the lid are hazardous once the guy gets into the awesome contents of your crate.
Craft hot glue can also work, just make sure you apply some pressure to the lid while it dries.

If you don't want to DIY check out the awesome options at www.mancrates.com

Azule74

Tue, 03/10/2015 - 13:21

Does anyone know where I can get the excel sheet? I am being lazy and not wanting to figure out the measurements today. I tried to email Ana White's crew and they said that it was not from Ana White and someone here might know who the original creator is.

JoanneS

Tue, 03/10/2015 - 17:32

Hi Azule 74, just click on my name and send me a note through the 'contacts' tab, and I will reply and email it to you.
JoanneS

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!