Do you want a farmhouse table, but don't want to spend thousands of dollars? Have you thought about building your own? Thousands of people have with minimal tools and woodworking experience using these very plans!

Preparation
- 8 – 2x4 8 feet long
- 6 – 2x2s 8 feet long
- 1 - 2×8 8 feet long
- 7 – 2x6s 8 feet long
- 2 3/4″ Self Tapping Wood Screws (About 100) (try spax brand or similar)
- 4″ Self tapping wood Screws (About 20)
A) 4 - 2×4 @ 28 1/2″ (Outside Legs)
B) 4 – 2×4 @ 28 1/2″ (Inside Legs)
C) 2 -2×4 @ 34 1/2″ (Bottom End Supports for the Stretcher)
D) 1 – 2×4 @ 81″ (Stretcher)
E) 2 – 2×4 @ 81″ (Side Aprons)
F) 2 – 2×4 @ 28 1/2″ (End Aprons)
G) 2 – 2×2 @ 28 1/2″ (Overhang Supports, Ends)
H) 2 – 2×2 @ 78″ (Overhang Supports, Sides)
I) 10 – 2×2 @ 28 1/2″ (Under Tabletop Supports)
J) 2 – 2×8 @ 38 1/2″ (Breadboard Ends)
K) 7 – 2×6 @ 81″ (Tabletop Pieces)
Start by cutting all your boards. The best way to cut is with a compound miter saw. You can also use a circular saw with a guide - good square cuts are very important.
Always use glue. Use the longest possible screws, and predrill with a countersink bit to hide the screw heads.
Instructions
Step 1
Step 2
Step 4
Step 6
Screw the support, C, into the legs, as shown above. Make sure you use 2 screws on the inside leg and 2 screws on the outside legs per side of the end supports. NOTE: If you would like the support to be on the outside, rotate the legs, keeping the inside legs on the inside, and add 4″ to your stretcher, D. This will reduce your leg room for end chairs, but the notch out will be more visible, like my table and the Restoration Hardware table.
Step 8
Step 9
Fit the apron frame into the base of the table as shown above. Use the long screws to screw at an angle through the apron into the legs. Use 3 screws per leg on all legs. Lots of glue here. Now is a good time to check your table for square. Visit the HOW-TO section if you do not know how to check for square.
Step 10
Step 11
Step 13
Step 14
Step 15
Step 16
Add the next tabletop boards, K, as shown below. As you screw each board down, take special care to line up the edges with the existing boards. You do not want a gap between the boards on the tabletop. Remember to screw through the top on the ends and then screw through the bottom of the under supports to the underside of the tabletop boards.
After all the boards are screwed in place, then use the long screws to screw through the tabletop boards into the breadboard ends, as shown above.
Sand the entire table with 120 grit sandpaper, working in the direction of the wood grain.
Refill holes with wood filler if needed.
Sand table with 180 grit sandpaper.
Stain or paint. If the table feels rough between coats, lightly sand with 180 grit sandpaper.
A final coat of poly on the top can help keep the top easy to finish and wipe cleanable.
Comments
Anonymous (not verified)
Tue, 01/19/2010 - 13:00
I, too, just discovered your
I, too, just discovered your blog and FB page. Please tell me how to make this an island. Sounds just like what I've been wanting. Great site!!!
Cynthia
krisha (not verified)
Wed, 01/20/2010 - 06:58
Does this table have a
Does this table have a matching buffet?
Erika (not verified)
Wed, 01/20/2010 - 08:06
OK,now i'm addicted to your
OK,now i'm addicted to your blog. got here via young house love and can't get away. I have wanted a farmhouse table for I don't know, forever!I immediately sent this link to my husband who I am going to partner with to make this! Thank you so much and can't wait to try all of your other plans, love them!!
banananutmeg (not verified)
Thu, 01/21/2010 - 18:15
I'm in love. No really. Your
I'm in love. No really. Your blog is a total drug for a furniture junkie! I love it. I'll be back for another hit soon...like tomorrow.
ainhoa vega (not verified)
Sun, 01/31/2010 - 02:36
I found your blog via
I found your blog via Apartment Therapy and I love it! I've wanted a solid wood table for my patio but all of them are really expensive. So after seeing this I think I'm going to try and make one myself with the help of my boyfriend! Our only question is what kind of wood should we use if it rains a lot where we live? I know we would probably be better of with a plastic/metal table but I really don't like them...
Bill K. (not verified)
Sat, 12/29/2012 - 09:05
Given the price listed for
Given the price listed for the wood pieces, I would assume it is pine. If the table will be an outdoor table, be sure to coat it with water sealant. Also, there are better, longer lasting, wood such as cedar, which is better suited for furniture exposed to the elements.
Ana White (not verified)
Mon, 02/01/2010 - 16:59
For an outdoor table, I would
For an outdoor table, I would recommend using cedar or teak or other outdoor woods. These are expensive options.
You can use pine or other hardwoods, but you will need to refinish the table every year if you live in a rainy area (think rotting picnic tables). Refinishing is easy if you keep up with it - just scrape and apply a new coat of poly or varnish.
bundle#1 (not verified)
Sat, 02/06/2010 - 08:47
Ana --- How many people does
Ana --- How many people does this table sit? We have a lot of family get togethers and that means a LOT of people.
Thanks!
Beth Bliss (not verified)
Tue, 02/09/2010 - 08:14
Love this table, but
Love this table, but currently looking to do an island and would LOVE one w/this style, maybe w/ 2 shelves underneath vs just the one bottom? am in love with your site! :)
Anonymous (not verified)
Tue, 02/16/2010 - 07:06
Hey Ana,One more time of
Hey Ana,
One more time of begging you to tell me how to make this an island. Mt dd's bday get together is 3/5 and I'd like to have it in my kitchen by then. ;-)
Cynthia