Farmhouse Table - No Pocket Holes Plan

Submitted by Ana White on Wed, 04/17/2019 - 22:15
Difficulty
Intermediate
| Print this plan

Do you want a farmhouse table, but don't want to spend thousands of dollars?  Have you thought about building your own?  Thousands of people have with minimal tools and woodworking experience using these very plans!

Collections
farmhouse table with chairs
farmhouse table featured in country living magazine

The Farmhouse Table Story

Beloved for hundreds of years, the Farmhouse Table was usually made by the family that used it, from wood that was locally harvested, using basic tools.  Soft woods were easier to use, but the soft wood dents easily, and the tables showed wear, creating that authentic distressed look.

Today, a true farmhouse table is just that - built by hand by the family that uses it, using soft woods, and finished by hand.  The tables are meaningful, with each scratch and scuff having a story, each moment creating memory for the family that uses it.

Start your family's Farmhouse Table Story by building your own table, and gathering around it to share a meal, to fold laundry on and do homework on - to create the foundation of your family's home.

 

The Farmhouse Table Plans

Our Farmhouse Table plans have been built tens of thousands of times and are in homes all over the world. The extremely sturdy, rustic styling is easy to build and authentic to history.

Built out of all off the shelf lumber - builders spend between $50 and $100 making their farmhouse tables.

You just need a saw and a drill to make this farm table.  

Special thanks to ssshindler for the featured photo.

This table was also featured in Country Living Magazine!  Built by Michael and Emily Knotts, photo by Lucas Allen

 

The plans for this farmhouse table follow.  Also check out these other plans:

Thank you so much for using our plans.  If you build, please share a photo and let us know how your build went in the comments or a brag post.

Dimensions
farmhouse table dimensions
30″ High x 38 1/2″ Wide x 96″ Long

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 8 – 2x4 8 feet long
  • 6 – 2x2s  8 feet long
  • 1 - 2×8  8 feet long
  • 7 – 2x6s 8 feet long
  • 2 3/4″ Self Tapping Wood Screws (About 100) (try spax brand or similar)
  • 4″ Self tapping wood Screws (About 20)
Common Materials
Cut List

A) 4 - 2×4 @ 28 1/2″ (Outside Legs)

B) 4 – 2×4 @ 28 1/2″ (Inside Legs)

C) 2 -2×4 @ 34 1/2″ (Bottom End Supports for the Stretcher)

D) 1 – 2×4 @ 81″ (Stretcher)

E) 2 – 2×4 @ 81″ (Side Aprons)

F) 2 – 2×4 @ 28 1/2″ (End Aprons)

G) 2 – 2×2 @ 28 1/2″ (Overhang Supports, Ends)

H) 2 – 2×2 @ 78″ (Overhang Supports, Sides)

I) 10 – 2×2 @ 28 1/2″ (Under Tabletop Supports)

J) 2 – 2×8 @ 38 1/2″ (Breadboard Ends)

K) 7 – 2×6 @ 81″ (Tabletop Pieces)

Cutting Instructions

Start by cutting all your boards.  The best way to cut is with a compound miter saw.  You can also use a circular saw with a guide - good square cuts are very important.

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Hammer
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

Always use glue. Use the longest possible screws, and predrill with a countersink bit to hide the screw heads.

Instructions

Step 1

Notch out boards A, the Outside Legs, as shown above. If you do not know how to notch out boards, watch me notch the boards out for my table in my HOW-TO section.

Step 2

Notch out the inside leg as shown above. Make sure you notch both the top and the bottom as shown above. Use the measurements from step 2 to notch the bottom. See the below diagram for a closeup on notching the top.

Step 3

The above diagram show you how to notch out the top of the inside legs.

Step 4

Now screw an inside leg to an outside leg, using glue and 2 3/4″ screws. Be aware of where each leg is placed – it does matter on what sides the inside leg sits. Also, screw through the inside leg into the outside leg to keep your screw holes on the inside.

Step 5

Step 6

Screw the support, C, into the legs, as shown above. Make sure you use 2 screws on the inside leg and 2 screws on the outside legs per side of the end supports. NOTE: If you would like the support to be on the outside, rotate the legs, keeping the inside legs on the inside, and add 4″ to your stretcher, D. This will reduce your leg room for end chairs, but the notch out will be more visible, like my table and the Restoration Hardware table.

Step 7

Put your stretcher in place and screw down.

Step 8

Build your apron on a level surface as shown above, using side apron boards E and end apron boards F.

Step 9

Fit the apron frame into the base of the table as shown above. Use the long screws to screw at an angle through the apron into the legs. Use 3 screws per leg on all legs. Lots of glue here. Now is a good time to check your table for square. Visit the HOW-TO section if you do not know how to check for square.

Step 10

Mark the side apron every 5 3/4″ and place the 2×2 supports, I, as shown above. Remember that a 2×2 is 1 1/2″ wide. This does not have to be exact and the last support will not be exactly 5 3/4″ from the end. Use the 2 3/4″ screws here.

Step 11

Add the overhang supports, G and H, as shown above. Keep the top edges flush, use the 2 3/4″ screws. Make sure you screw these in good.

Step 12

Now the breadboard ends, J. See the below diagram for measurements:

Step 13

Use the long screws to screw the breadboard end into the legs. Then screw from the underside of the overhang support, board G, into the underside of the breadboard end.

Step 14

First mark all the ends of the tabletop boards, K, for the screw pattern. The screw pattern I used was 1″ from the end, and 1″ from each side and one in the middle. Predrill the ends on the marked pattern, as shown above.

Step 15

Then begin adding the tabletop pieces K, starting with the center piece. Screw the center board in place on the ends through the top, pre,drilled and marked in step 15. Then from the underside of the table, screw through the tabletop supports, I, into the underside of the tabletop boards, K.

Step 16

Add the next tabletop boards, K, as shown below. As you screw each board down, take special care to line up the edges with the existing boards. You do not want a gap between the boards on the tabletop. Remember to screw through the top on the ends and then screw through the bottom of the under supports to the underside of the tabletop boards.

After all the boards are screwed in place, then use the long screws to screw through the tabletop boards into the breadboard ends, as shown above.

Finishing Instructions
Finish Used
Fill any wood screw holes with wood filler. Use stain matched wood filler for best stain hiding. For a painted finish, any wood filler works. Overfill the screw holes. Let dry.
Sand the entire table with 120 grit sandpaper, working in the direction of the wood grain.
Refill holes with wood filler if needed.
Sand table with 180 grit sandpaper.
Stain or paint. If the table feels rough between coats, lightly sand with 180 grit sandpaper.
A final coat of poly on the top can help keep the top easy to finish and wipe cleanable.
Help Improve This Plan

We apologize if there was an error in this plan. Please help us out and report any errors here.

Comments

Erika (not verified)

Wed, 01/20/2010 - 08:06

OK,now i'm addicted to your blog. got here via young house love and can't get away. I have wanted a farmhouse table for I don't know, forever!I immediately sent this link to my husband who I am going to partner with to make this! Thank you so much and can't wait to try all of your other plans, love them!!

banananutmeg (not verified)

Thu, 01/21/2010 - 18:15

I'm in love. No really. Your blog is a total drug for a furniture junkie! I love it. I'll be back for another hit soon...like tomorrow.

ainhoa vega (not verified)

Sun, 01/31/2010 - 02:36

I found your blog via Apartment Therapy and I love it! I've wanted a solid wood table for my patio but all of them are really expensive. So after seeing this I think I'm going to try and make one myself with the help of my boyfriend! Our only question is what kind of wood should we use if it rains a lot where we live? I know we would probably be better of with a plastic/metal table but I really don't like them...

Bill K. (not verified)

Sat, 12/29/2012 - 09:05

Given the price listed for the wood pieces, I would assume it is pine. If the table will be an outdoor table, be sure to coat it with water sealant. Also, there are better, longer lasting, wood such as cedar, which is better suited for furniture exposed to the elements.

Ana White (not verified)

Mon, 02/01/2010 - 16:59

For an outdoor table, I would recommend using cedar or teak or other outdoor woods. These are expensive options.

You can use pine or other hardwoods, but you will need to refinish the table every year if you live in a rainy area (think rotting picnic tables). Refinishing is easy if you keep up with it - just scrape and apply a new coat of poly or varnish.

bundle#1 (not verified)

Sat, 02/06/2010 - 08:47

Ana --- How many people does this table sit? We have a lot of family get togethers and that means a LOT of people.

Thanks!

Beth Bliss (not verified)

Tue, 02/09/2010 - 08:14

Love this table, but currently looking to do an island and would LOVE one w/this style, maybe w/ 2 shelves underneath vs just the one bottom? am in love with your site! :)

Anonymous (not verified)

Tue, 02/16/2010 - 07:06

Hey Ana,

One more time of begging you to tell me how to make this an island. Mt dd's bday get together is 3/5 and I'd like to have it in my kitchen by then. ;-)

Cynthia

Kelly (not verified)

Mon, 02/22/2010 - 15:39

Just finished building this and I LOVE IT!!! Never built anything before, but I'm quite in love with the feeling of a saw in my hand! This thing is HUGE for our big family of 7 and I have my grandmother's old dining chairs that will be added with a bench (our next build) and we'll have plenty of seating. About to head to the garage to apply my stain in Cabot's Peppermill and Tannery semi-transparent... Can't wait to see it. I have pics and will post them to my blog soon!!!!