Farmhouse Table - Updated Pocket Hole Plans

Submitted by Ana White on Fri, 08/23/2019 - 14:53
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Free plans to build a Farmhouse Table. This table has been built tens of thousands of times and is loved the world over for it's basic material composition, simple clean lines, easy to build steps, and sturdy, functional size.  Our step by step plans with diagrams make it easy.

This plan uses pocket holes and is the updated plan.  We also have this plan available to build without pocket holes.

farmhouse table

Built by Hillary at The Friendly Home, we upgraded the farmhouse table for pocket hole joinery (no visibile fasteners) and easier construction.

Hillary made this table with pocket holes instead of adding the 2x2 supports as done in the original plan, saving a ton of cuts and holes to be drilled, which saves time and money.

Also, by using pocket holes, we hide most all of the screw holes, so a beautiful stained finish like Hillary's is very easy to do.

The easy to do pocket hole plan follows if you want to build this table.

And as always, Hillary delivers a beautiful finish, and you can get all the details on how Hillary finished her table here. I love the stain color and will have to try it as well!

PS - Don't have a pocket hole jig? Here's the original Farmhouse Table Plans.

PSS - Have trouble finding 4x4s? Check out this beginner friendly 2 Tool/$50 Farmhouse Table plans

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Farmhouse Table Pin

farmhouse table plans
Dimensions shown above.


Shopping List
  • 4 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 4x4 @ 10 feet long
  • 4 - 2x8 @ 6 feet long
  • 1 - 2x8 @ 8 feet long (breadboard ends)
  • 1 - 2x10 @ 6 feet long
Common Materials
Cut List
  • 4 - 4x4 posts @ 29" (legs)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 67" (long aprons)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 27" (short aprons)
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 74" (stretcher)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 34" (stretcher supports)
  • 4 - 2x8 @ 70.5" (table top planks)
  • 1 - 2x10@ 70-1/2" (center table top plank -- I had to use one 2x10 to get the right overall width)
  • 2 - 2x8 ~38" (breadboard ends -- measure your joined tabletop before cutting these)
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Kreg Jig
Circular Saw
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!


Step 1

First, cut and notch out the 4x4s. If you can get your home improvement store to make square cuts, ask them to cut your 4x4s. Otherwise, you'll need a 12" (maybe a 10" will work too) miter saw or set your circular saw to the deepest possible cut. Cut one side, flip the 4x4 and finish the cut on the bottom side. Sand until cut is smooth. You'll probably add cork or felt pads under the legs later on to level table up and protect your floor.

Then notch out the stretcher joint as shown in diagram. Definitely practice first on a scrap if you can. This is easier to do than it looks - just be sure to get the top and bottom cut right, and it will all work out!

Step 2

Notch out the stretcher support board first, then attach to the 4x4s. Remember the screws will show here, so drill in pattern. Use 3" screws to attach.

Do both ends.

Step 3

Then add your top aprons with 1 1/2" pocket holes and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws.

NOT SHOWN: Drill 1 1/2" pocket holes on the insides of your aprons facing upward for later attaching the the tabletop too. Drill three holes per end apron.

Step 4

Now attach the two ends together to create your table frame.

NOT SHOWN: Drill 1 1/2" pocket holes on the insides of your aprons facing upward for later attaching the the tabletop too. Drill five holes per side apron.

Step 5

Attach base stretcher with pocket holes underneath.

Step 6

Now start building your tabletop.

Step 7

Measure and cut your breadboard ends to fit and attach to tabletop.

Step 8

Then attach the base to the tabletop through predrilled 1 1/2" pocket holes with 2 1/2" pocket hole screws.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.



Sat, 12/12/2015 - 15:24

I built this table a few days ago. I found that the ends needed more support so I used shelf angles to support it. I stained the top (maple hue and clear satin poly)and distressed the bottom ( black stain and satin poly). I would love to add a photo however I'm uncertain how to do that. It's a great size. Still deciding on spindle back or ladder back chairs. 


Tue, 03/01/2016 - 10:05

Do you use pocket wholes to attach the bread board to the base? or is the breadboard only attached to the table top? In the pictures and building instructions it looks like the table top is only attached with pocket holes on the long apron side. Also I am using 2x10s  as my bread boards, has anyone run into problems with this? I want to make sure that 2x10s are not to long!


Tue, 03/29/2016 - 05:19

Love your site!  How much sanding do you typically do on each table top you build?  I find myself using my belt sander and planer a lot, like a lot!  Using 50 grit sandpaper at first for all the uneven joints. Am I the only one?  Pictures online always look like your table tops are perfect. What's your secret?


Wed, 05/11/2016 - 07:19

When you build these farm style tables what type of wood do you typically use.  I have access to a jointer and Planer, but when I do that the edges are not the same.  I just built a farmhouse table using 2x12's because they came in douglas fir and were kiln dried.  I am struggling to find decent Kiln Dried 2x6s in the area that are dry enough so I do not have to worry about them warping after it is built or is that not a concern once it is built.




Tue, 07/19/2016 - 05:01

I am hoping to make this table 8 ft long (about 1 foot longer than the current plans) and a few inches wider as well. To make it longer, all I am planning on doing is cutting the top boards, stretcher, and lengthwise apron 1 foot longer. I don't think this would add any kind of problem but wanted to see if anyone had any thoughts or pitfalls I may run into. 


To make it a few inches wider, I may just use a 2x12 on the center top board instead of a 2x10. I would keep the frame the same (end aprons would stay same). Would that create too much pressure on the outside top boards, since each side would then have an additional inch hanging off the side? Again, I am not sure, though I wouldn't think 1 inch on each side would create too big a problem. Any suggestions?


Thu, 07/21/2016 - 17:20

My husband and I will embark in the adventure of building this farmhouse table for our new home but we're debating what type of wood should we get to build it.

Can someone give me a little advice as to what type of wood you used, or you think will be best for this project?



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