Farmhouse Table - Updated Pocket Hole Plans

Submitted by Ana White on Fri, 08/23/2019 - 14:53
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Free plans to build a Farmhouse Table. This table has been built tens of thousands of times and is loved the world over for it's basic material composition, simple clean lines, easy to build steps, and sturdy, functional size.  Our step by step plans with diagrams make it easy.

This plan uses pocket holes and is the updated plan.  We also have this plan available to build without pocket holes.

farmhouse table

Built by Hillary at The Friendly Home, we upgraded the farmhouse table for pocket hole joinery (no visibile fasteners) and easier construction.

Hillary made this table with pocket holes instead of adding the 2x2 supports as done in the original plan, saving a ton of cuts and holes to be drilled, which saves time and money.

Also, by using pocket holes, we hide most all of the screw holes, so a beautiful stained finish like Hillary's is very easy to do.

The easy to do pocket hole plan follows if you want to build this table.

And as always, Hillary delivers a beautiful finish, and you can get all the details on how Hillary finished her table here. I love the stain color and will have to try it as well!

PS - Don't have a pocket hole jig? Here's the original Farmhouse Table Plans.

PSS - Have trouble finding 4x4s? Check out this beginner friendly 2 Tool/$50 Farmhouse Table plans

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Farmhouse Table Pin

farmhouse table plans
Dimensions shown above.


Shopping List
  • 4 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 1 - 4x4 @ 10 feet long
  • 4 - 2x8 @ 6 feet long
  • 1 - 2x8 @ 8 feet long (breadboard ends)
  • 1 - 2x10 @ 6 feet long
Common Materials
Cut List
  • 4 - 4x4 posts @ 29" (legs)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 67" (long aprons)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 27" (short aprons)
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 74" (stretcher)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 34" (stretcher supports)
  • 4 - 2x8 @ 70.5" (table top planks)
  • 1 - 2x10@ 70-1/2" (center table top plank -- I had to use one 2x10 to get the right overall width)
  • 2 - 2x8 ~38" (breadboard ends -- measure your joined tabletop before cutting these)
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Kreg Jig
Circular Saw
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!


Step 1

First, cut and notch out the 4x4s. If you can get your home improvement store to make square cuts, ask them to cut your 4x4s. Otherwise, you'll need a 12" (maybe a 10" will work too) miter saw or set your circular saw to the deepest possible cut. Cut one side, flip the 4x4 and finish the cut on the bottom side. Sand until cut is smooth. You'll probably add cork or felt pads under the legs later on to level table up and protect your floor.

Then notch out the stretcher joint as shown in diagram. Definitely practice first on a scrap if you can. This is easier to do than it looks - just be sure to get the top and bottom cut right, and it will all work out!

Step 2

Notch out the stretcher support board first, then attach to the 4x4s. Remember the screws will show here, so drill in pattern. Use 3" screws to attach.

Do both ends.

Step 3

Then add your top aprons with 1 1/2" pocket holes and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws.

NOT SHOWN: Drill 1 1/2" pocket holes on the insides of your aprons facing upward for later attaching the the tabletop too. Drill three holes per end apron.

Step 4

Now attach the two ends together to create your table frame.

NOT SHOWN: Drill 1 1/2" pocket holes on the insides of your aprons facing upward for later attaching the the tabletop too. Drill five holes per side apron.

Step 5

Attach base stretcher with pocket holes underneath.

Step 6

Now start building your tabletop.

Step 7

Measure and cut your breadboard ends to fit and attach to tabletop.

Step 8

Then attach the base to the tabletop through predrilled 1 1/2" pocket holes with 2 1/2" pocket hole screws.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.



Thu, 01/18/2018 - 16:34

This was my first wood project ever. I did not have any kind of tools or knoledge. 

Thanks to Ana's website I mustered the currage to take on this project. Thank you Ana! I am happy with how the finished product turned out.

I just want to leave a few tips for anybody that is an absolute beginner with wood working - things that I have learned along the way.




Tue, 02/20/2018 - 07:37

I am finishing up the building part of this table but the ends are real flimsy.  i was worried about that when is seen the design? anyone got a fix for the flimsy 2x8s on the end of the table top?


Mon, 03/05/2018 - 10:36

never got a response from anyone so i just notched out the 2x4's up top on the ends and ran two 2x4's the length of the table plus about 4" past each end to help carry loads on the bread boards.  i think it even added character to the table.  i cut a 45 off of each end to dress the boards up a little and seems to support the bread boards well


Sat, 08/24/2019 - 17:21

I recommend using an HD pocket jig and HD screws, and ensure that the end piece joints are centered over the end of your base, that way the 4x4 legs will overhand and provide support.

This plan used to have instructions to glue the end pieces, but I'm guessing someone realized that would end up splitting the table top when the wood expands/contracts.


Mon, 05/27/2019 - 17:42

I was browsing youtube and came across a video that said the way most farmhouse tables are made doesnt allow the wood to swell and contract like it does sometimes and it leads to cracks in the table. Has another had an issue with that? Also have people ripped the edges of the boards to get a more flush fit and then palm sanded over it to get a table top woth less grooves and cracks for crumbs to get stuck in?


Sat, 08/24/2019 - 17:25

I would suggest finding a wood source that sells dressed, kiln-dried furniture grade lumber. I was able to have a nearly flush surface by buying the right wood.

If you want a perfect surface, you'll need access to a jointer.


Sat, 08/24/2019 - 17:27

For the cracking issue, as long as you only use screws for your breadboard ends, you should be fine. It's fine to glue the rest of the pieces lengthwise since the wood only contracts/expands across the grain.

Will Brown

Fri, 05/31/2019 - 11:41

I am looking at building this and was wondering- is everyone screwing, gluing and clamping as you join each of the table top boards, letting them dry and then joining the next one? Or gluing and screwing them all together and then clamping the entire thing? 


Sat, 08/24/2019 - 17:23

I glued two pieces together, clamped them, screwed them in, and moved on to the next piece. The crews act as a strong enough clamp. I used the heavier HD screws, though.

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