Farmhouse Bed - Queen Sized

Submitted by Ana White on Sun, 05/19/2019 - 13:30
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This beautiful farmhouse bed can be made for just a fraction of the cost to buy - all from standard, off the shelf lumber!  You won't need a pocket hole jig or any special tools to build.

This bed has been built thousands of times and is a reader favorite.  You can also find the twin version, king version, and all our farmhouse bed plans here.

White farmhouse bed with distressed edges built by Ana White

Having a beautiful bed can transform any bedroom.  It's the most important piece in your bedroom, but can also be the most expensive.

Over a decade ago, I built my first farmhouse bed (pictured above).  We still use it today, it's still as strong and sturdy and beautiful as ever.  And it only cost about $120 to build then - thousands less than buying!

Farmhouse Bed Plans

We updated the original farmhouse bed plans to use less tools, less materials, but be just as beautiful!  You won't need a pocket hole jig - just a drill, nailer and a saw, to tackle this project.

The plans are below.  Please let us know in the comments or add a brag post on how your farmhouse bed turned out.  Thank you for using our plans.


NOTE: This bed plan has been updated and improved.  If you need the original plans, we have created a printable PDF for your convenience.

diagram of queen farmhouse bed showing dimensions
Dimensions fit a standard Queen Mattress 60" x 80"


Shopping List

12 - 2x4 8 feet long

2 - 2x6 8 feet long

2 - 1x10 8 feet long

2 - 4x4 8 feet long

1 - 2x2 8 feet long

6 - 1x6 8 feet long

4 - 1x4 8 feet long

100 - 1-1/4" long brad nails

75 - 2-1/2" long self tapping wood screws 

Cut List


2 - 4x4 @ 54"

2 - 2x2 @ 30"

11 - 1x6 @ 30" 

2 - 1x4 @ about 60-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x4@ 67-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x6 @ 69-1/2" - measure and cut to fit



2 - 4x4 @ 21"

2 - 2x2 @ 8"

2 - 2x2 @ 3"

11 - 1x6 @ 15" 

2 - 1x4 @ about 60-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x4@ 67-1/2" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x6 @ 69-1/2" - measure and cut to fit



3 - 2x4 @ 83-1/2"

1 - 2x4 @ 60-1/2"

2 - 2x4 @ 12-1/2"

2 - 1x10 @ 80"

20 - 2x4 @ 32" - can be as short as 30" if you need to burn up scraps

Cutting Instructions

Cut all boards except as noted to measure and cut.  We recommend using a compound miter saw for the straightest cuts, but you can also use a circular saw and a carpenter's square - just make sure your cut ends are nice and straight.

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander


Step 1

Attach the longest 2x2s to the longest 4x4s, flush to the back edge with 2-1/2" self tapping screws.  

Step 2

Layout the 30" 1x6 boards flat, side by side.  Measure the overall width of all the 1x6 boards.  Cut two 1x4s to this measurement.

Nail the 1x6 boards with glue to the 1x4s.  Apply glue between the 1x6 boards as you go.

Make sure the panel is built square by measuring opposite diagonals (outside top corner of 1x4 to outside bottom corner of opposite 1x4) and adjusting so the opposite diagonals match.

Step 3

Attach the headboard panel to the 2x2s on the legs with 2-1/2" screws.  Only screw to the headboard panel at the top and bottom portion backed by the 1x4s.

Also attach the panel from the front 1x6s to the 2x2s with 1-1/4" brad nails.

Step 4

Measure and cut the 2x4 for the top.  Attach with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 5

Repeat steps for the 2x6 top, leaving a 1" overhang on all four sides.

This completes the headboard build.

Step 6

The footboard is constructed exactly as the headboard, with the exception of the 2x2 cleats and the overall height.

Attach the 2x2 cleats with 2-1/2" screws.  The smaller cleat may split on you since the wood piece is so small.  You can predrill holes to help prevent wood from splitting.

Step 7

Build the panel and attach to the 2x2 cleats.

Step 8

Attach top 2x4 and 2x6 to the footboard with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 9

Attach the 2x4 cleat to the footboard, set in the 2x2 cleats, resting on the bottom cleat.  Use 2-1/2" screws to attach the 2x4 to the 4x4 legs.

Mark the headboard legs as shown in the diagram, and attach 2x4 cleat to the 4x4 legs with 2-1/2" screws.

Step 10

Use 2-1/2" screws to attach the headboard support between the cleats.

Step 11

Center legs add a ton of support and strength to the bed.  

First attach the shorter 2x4 "legs" to the center 2x4.  Then place the center 2x4 in place inside the bed, and attach to the footboard and the headboard 2x4.

Step 12

Measure and cut to fit the 1x10 siderails.  

Attach with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.

NOTE: If you find your 1x10s need to be attached at the top, you can buy small L brackets and use to attach 

Step 13

Cut the wood slats from remaining 2x4s and set inside the bed with about a 1/2" gap in between each slat.  You only need one screw on the siderail cleat to attach - but you can also add screws to the center support.



Finishing Instructions
Finish Used
I gave this bed an Antique White finish, but have done natural wood and other colors with the same success. I choose to distress this bed by lightly sanding outside edges. I also ran a flat bladed screwdriver down any groves in the planks to highlight the planking in the panel.



Thu, 01/12/2012 - 13:17

Can the kreg jig be used to make the actual frame portion or is that not advised

Erika (not verified)

Wed, 02/08/2012 - 20:44

What is the measurement between the top of the side rails and the bottom of the headboard?
If you've already answered this, I'm sorry-I did look through all the plans, honest :)


Wed, 02/15/2012 - 07:45

How precisely are we supposed to attach the posts in step 2? We literally just drill into the section of the head/footboard where it is three boards thick? Do we then use wood putty to cover up where the screws are? How do we make sure the screws don't go into the (4) nails which were put in in previous steps?

Also, how are we supposed to attach the frame to the footboard.

Are there more detailed plans available via google sketchup?

This blog is awesome, its really cool to see all these detailed plans and people's stories... keep up the great work all and thank you very much!


Puddles872 (not verified)

Wed, 02/29/2012 - 16:38

Love this bed design but wondered how to modify so the top of the mattress would not be lying flat but rather elevated 2-3" higher than the foot of the mattress. My husband has GERD and this is what his doctor recommends and how we have our bed presently. Thanks Ana for your wonderful designs!


Fri, 03/02/2012 - 06:08

I hope this question hasn't already been answered through other comments. I am getting ready to start this project but we do have a box spring for our mattress, so how does this need to be modified to work with that?


Fri, 03/02/2012 - 06:27

If you have a box spring, or anything else than changes the height, you can compensate by moving the support rails up or down appropriately. The best solution is to figure out how high you want the top of the bed to be. Then measure the thickness of the stack you're going to be sleeping on, i.e. box spring, mattress, futon. Subtract the height of the mattress stack from the desired bed height, and that's where the top of the support slats should be.

The height that I might find comfortable for a bed is very different than the height my mother in law would like, since we have a twelve inch difference in height.

Myself, I really like to be able to sit with my feet on the floor at the edge of the bed. Can't do that with my current bed arrangement, but that's what I really like for bed height.

Guest (not verified)

Sun, 03/04/2012 - 14:07

Ana, my wife just turned me on to your web site and she sold me on building this beautiful farmhouse bed. I will be building it in king but i am trying to figure out how to use it with the split box spring that i currently have. I saw your design for a single box spring in queen, how would i modify this to fit our needs. Thanks much in advance, cant wait to start building.

Katerina (not verified)

Thu, 03/08/2012 - 04:42

Hi there! I have never built anything like this but am going to give it a shot this weekend. For step one I wondering if I can use screws instead of nails? I do not have a nail gun, and my boyfriend pointed out that it is easier to take things apart that are make with screws if a mistake is made. As I am BRAND NEW to this kind of stuff I would really appreciate advice! Thanks so much, and thanks to the talented Ana for sharing this site with us!! It's amazing!


Thu, 03/08/2012 - 04:54

I'd hammer in the morning, and get a lot of complaints from my wife about all the racket. Also, she doesn't like it when I sing Woodie Guthrie songs.

But seriously, you don't need an air nailer to use nails. A good 16oz hammer and a nail set will work just fine. Just avoid the temptation to think "I'm only a girl, I should buy a small hammer." The bigger the hammer, the easier the nails are to drive. A 12oz hammer for driving nails will make you sore and mad. Also look for one with a smooth face on the hammer, rather than a waffle face.

You should also pick up nail sets, which are used to drive the nail heads below the surface.

Katerina (not verified)

Sat, 03/17/2012 - 16:37

Thanks for your advice. I decided to go ahead and pick up a hammer and I've had great success! My bed is almost finished, I just need to paint it. Thanks for your encouragment :)