Farmhouse Bed - Standard King Size

Submitted by Ana White on Tue, 05/28/2019 - 16:18
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This stunning (and extra sturdy!) Farmhouse King Bed frame costs just a fraction to build vs buy.  It's made of solid wood and you won't need a ton of tools to whip it out.  You'll love the step by step diagrams, shopping list and cut list.

We also have Queen Farmhouse Bed Plans, and check out our full room build with this bed and matching nightstands. 

Reader submitted photo by JHAVINGA

beautiful farmhouse bed in king size

The very first real project that I ever tackled all by myself was this EXACT Farmhouse Bed in King size.

farmhouse bed grey paint

I remember being stunned at how well the project turned out.  And here we are, over a decade later, and it's still just as beautiful, just as sturdy, and I'm just as stunned.

The farmhouse beds have been built thousands of times and is a reader favorite.

What Wood Do You Use

We use standard off the shelf lumber to build - just framing lumber and common boards.  You can of course build with any type of wood, just make sure your material dimensions match dimensional lumber sizes (for example a 2x4 is actually 1-1/2" x 3-1/2").

Matching Nightstands

This bed is quite substantial and deserves matching nightstands.  I have put together nightstand plans that are designed to match - so you can get a full bedroom furniture set!

matching farmhouse nightstands

Updated Farmhouse King Bed Plans

We have updated these plans to be easier to build and not require pocket holes.  You can still access the old plans here.

If you need a different sized farmhouse bed, check out all our farmhouse bed plans here.

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Farmhouse Bed King Size

Dimensions diagram for king farmhouse bed
Designed to fit STANDARD king approximately 76" x 80


Shopping List

2 - 4x4, 8 feet long

1 - 2x2, 8 feet long

7 - 1x6, 8 feet long

4 - 1x4, 8 feet long

2 - 2x6, 8 feet long OR stud length

2 - 1x10 OR 2x10 @ 8 feet long

18* - 2x4, 8 feet long OR stud length

2 small L brackets (1-1/2" wings)

2 straight brackets (6" overall length)

150 - 1-1/4" brad nails

150 - 2-1/2" self tapping wood screws (try SPAX or similar)

*Includes 11 2x4s for the mattress slats.  You can substitute 1x4s, 1x3s, ripped plywood etc for the slats if you have other materials on hand

Cut List


2 - 4x4 @ 54" - headboard legs

2 - 2x2 @ 30" - headboard cleats

14 - 1x6 @ 30" - headboard panel

2 - 1x4 @ about 77" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x4 @ about 84" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x6 @ about 86" - measure and cut to fit


2 - 4x4 @ 21" - footboard legs

2 - 2x2 @ 8" - footboard cleats

2 - 2x2 @ 3" - footboard cleats

14 - 1x6 @ 15" - footboard panel

2 - 1x4 @ about 77" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x4 @ about 84" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x6 @ about 86" - measure and cut to fit


4 - 2x4 @ 83-1/2" - mattress supports

1 - 2x4 @ ~77" - headboard tie in - cut to fit

4 - 2x4 @ 12-1/2" - center legs

2 - 1x10 or 2x10 @ 80"

11 - 2x4 @ ~77" cut to fit - mattress slats

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander


Step 1

Attach 2x2 cleats flush to the back of the legs, with 2-1/2" screws


NOTE: Pocket hole users can skip this step

Step 2

Layout the 1x6 headboard panels, and measure the overall width.

Cut 1x4 boards to this measurement.

Attach 1x6 boards to the 1x4s with glue and 1-1/4" brad nails from the back side to hide nail holes.

Make sure you apply glue between the 1x6 boards as you go.

Check to make sure that the panel is constructed square (NOT a parallelogram) 


POCKET HOLE USERS: Attach 1x4s to the 4x4 legs with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.  Then nail the 1x6s to the 1x4s inside the headboard panel.

Step 3

Attach panel to the 2x2 cleats with 2-1/2" screws and glue.  Also attach with a few 1-1/4" nails through front side into the 2x2 cleat where there is no 1x4.


POCKET HOLE USERS can skip this step

Step 4

Measure the top overall width.  Cut a 2x4 to this width.  Attach with glue and screws to top of headboard.

Step 5

Cut a 2x6 2" longer than the 2x4.  

Attach with 1" overhang on all sides with 2-1/2" screws and glue.

This completes the headboard build.

Step 6

The footboard is constructed the same as the headboard, with the exception of the 2x2 cleats on the back so that the siderail cleats can notch in.  

If you have trouble with your smaller 2x2 splitting try predrilling holes.

Step 7

Finish construction of the footboard exactly as you did the headboard.

Step 8

Attach siderail cleats inside the footboard and to the headboard legs.  Use 2-1/2" screws to secure.

This completes the footboard.

Consider painting or staining your footboards and headboards and siderails now - then move all the pieces into the room for final assembly.

Step 9

Attach headboard support piece between the siderail cleats.

Step 10

Build the center legs - space the legs about 1/3 the way down - you don't have to be exact here.

Step 11

Attach the center legs inside the bed, splitting the spacing by about 1/3

Step 12

Attach siderails to the siderail cleats.

We recommend using brackets to attach siderails at the top to the headboard and footboard.

POCKET HOLE USERS: Drill a pocket hole at the top and attach.

Step 13

Cut slats and lay about 4" apart in the bed.
Screw down with 2-1/2" screws.



Tue, 01/19/2016 - 06:02

Just a quick question about the Farmhouse storage bed, I'm about to start this project but when I noticed the storage boxes are made of plywood and the face of the drawers don't cover the entire side won't that leave the unfinished edge of the plywood exposed? I plan on staining this bed and not painting it, won't that look bad?


Thu, 01/28/2016 - 09:39

Hey! I am new to DIY projects and this will actually be my first project since our bed is currently on the floor. I want to do it this weekend but i am trying to figure out how many 2x4's i will need for the frame floor since we have the two box springs. also what was the size of the plywood that you put on top of the slats? TIA.


Thu, 01/28/2016 - 19:41

  I'm getting ready to build a variation of this bed, basically using the footboard and the side rails/frame. But where I'm kind of stuck, is I'm trying to figure out dimensions for incorporating my box springs without making them visible. Are most people not using box springs with their beds? We have a Tempurpedic and you have to use the box springs with them. 


Fri, 01/29/2016 - 08:42

i have the same issue. we just got a king tempurpedic with the dual box springs (HEAVY!!!) and trying to figure out the foundation for this bed! i really want to make it this weekend so im hoping i can figure it out frown


Fri, 07/15/2016 - 22:03

Ana I fell in love with this bed as soon as I saw it. Even though we know nothing about building looking over the plan it seemed pretty straight forward. So went out and bought the cut list but when I printed out the plan to begin my project I saw some missing information. How are the side rails attached to the head and footboard? I see a lot of questions about the dimensions of the bed not being standard but some are saying that because of the way that the rails are attached that this is standard? And lastly I read one of your posts that says something about your plan being angled because you didn't have the room, I really didn't understand this, what part is angled? Sorry for so many questions


Wed, 07/27/2016 - 20:57

I love how detailed this plan is. Color coded and each step including measurements. Do you have a set of plans for the queen version of this bed that are as detailed as the king version. I am new to this site and woodworking in general so this makes it way easier for me to understand!!!

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!

Chayah L

Sat, 08/13/2016 - 18:01

There are two significant errors in the plan, -and shopping list for this project. 

1. To build the head and footboard, you will need AT LEAST 6 1x8s, not four as listed. We reduced the height of the headboard by five inches to fit a funny spot in our bedroom, and we've still come

up VERY short. 

2. The 1x3s listed are not even close to wide enough to make the frame the proper width. 8x1 are actually closer to 7.25" when well dried, and 3x1 are more like 2.5. That is 77.5", which is a BIG gap, and doesn't create enough frame space for a king bed!! Measure the wood you have - you'll probably want to go up to 1x4s at least. So, because of all of this, my husband and I didn't get to build our new bed today as planned with our only day off for forever, but instead spent it cursing and frustrated that the lumberyard was closed. 


Beautiful project - hope we get to finish it without any other glaring problems. 


Mon, 10/17/2016 - 07:08

Hi, I am new to the site, i should be working! Love this bed. I am upgrading from a queen bed to a king with little money so love that I can make this beautiful bed for so little. Can it be made with re-claimed barnboard? I see you used pine from a hardware I believe. Just wondering if you think thats possible. Also your plan does not include side rails. Is there a seperate plan for that? I am so excited to get started!

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