This stunning (and extra sturdy!) Farmhouse King Bed frame costs just a fraction to build vs buy. It's made of solid wood and you won't need a ton of tools to whip it out. You'll love the step by step diagrams, shopping list and cut list.
We also have Queen Farmhouse Bed Plans, and check out our full room build with this bed and matching nightstands.
The very first real project that I ever tackled all by myself was this EXACT Farmhouse Bed in King size.
I remember being stunned at how well the project turned out. And here we are, over a decade later, and it's still just as beautiful, just as sturdy, and I'm just as stunned.
The farmhouse beds have been built thousands of times and is a reader favorite.
What Wood Do You Use
We use standard off the shelf lumber to build - just framing lumber and common boards. You can of course build with any type of wood, just make sure your material dimensions match dimensional lumber sizes (for example a 2x4 is actually 1-1/2" x 3-1/2").
Matching Nightstands
This bed is quite substantial and deserves matching nightstands. I have put together nightstand plans that are designed to match - so you can get a full bedroom furniture set!
Updated Farmhouse King Bed Plans
We have updated these plans to be easier to build and not require pocket holes. You can still access the old plans here.
If you need a different sized farmhouse bed, check out all our farmhouse bed plans here.
Preparation
2 - 4x4, 8 feet long
1 - 2x2, 8 feet long
7 - 1x6, 8 feet long
4 - 1x4, 8 feet long
2 - 2x6, 8 feet long OR stud length
2 - 1x10 OR 2x10 @ 8 feet long
18* - 2x4, 8 feet long OR stud length
2 small L brackets (1-1/2" wings)
2 straight brackets (6" overall length)
150 - 1-1/4" brad nails
150 - 2-1/2" self tapping wood screws (try SPAX or similar)
*Includes 11 2x4s for the mattress slats. You can substitute 1x4s, 1x3s, ripped plywood etc for the slats if you have other materials on hand
HEADBOARD CUT LIST
2 - 4x4 @ 54" - headboard legs
2 - 2x2 @ 30" - headboard cleats
14 - 1x6 @ 30" - headboard panel
2 - 1x4 @ about 77" - measure and cut to fit
1 - 2x4 @ about 84" - measure and cut to fit
1 - 2x6 @ about 86" - measure and cut to fit
FOOTBOARD CUT LIST
2 - 4x4 @ 21" - footboard legs
2 - 2x2 @ 8" - footboard cleats
2 - 2x2 @ 3" - footboard cleats
14 - 1x6 @ 15" - footboard panel
2 - 1x4 @ about 77" - measure and cut to fit
1 - 2x4 @ about 84" - measure and cut to fit
1 - 2x6 @ about 86" - measure and cut to fit
MATTRESS SUPPORT FRAME/SIDERAILS
4 - 2x4 @ 83-1/2" - mattress supports
1 - 2x4 @ ~77" - headboard tie in - cut to fit
4 - 2x4 @ 12-1/2" - center legs
2 - 1x10 or 2x10 @ 80"
11 - 2x4 @ ~77" cut to fit - mattress slats
Instructions
Step 1
Attach 2x2 cleats flush to the back of the legs, with 2-1/2" screws
NOTE: Pocket hole users can skip this step
Step 2
Layout the 1x6 headboard panels, and measure the overall width.
Cut 1x4 boards to this measurement.
Attach 1x6 boards to the 1x4s with glue and 1-1/4" brad nails from the back side to hide nail holes.
Make sure you apply glue between the 1x6 boards as you go.
Check to make sure that the panel is constructed square (NOT a parallelogram)
POCKET HOLE USERS: Attach 1x4s to the 4x4 legs with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. Then nail the 1x6s to the 1x4s inside the headboard panel.
Step 3
Attach panel to the 2x2 cleats with 2-1/2" screws and glue. Also attach with a few 1-1/4" nails through front side into the 2x2 cleat where there is no 1x4.
POCKET HOLE USERS can skip this step
Step 4
Measure the top overall width. Cut a 2x4 to this width. Attach with glue and screws to top of headboard.
Step 5
Cut a 2x6 2" longer than the 2x4.
Attach with 1" overhang on all sides with 2-1/2" screws and glue.
This completes the headboard build.
Step 6
The footboard is constructed the same as the headboard, with the exception of the 2x2 cleats on the back so that the siderail cleats can notch in.
If you have trouble with your smaller 2x2 splitting try predrilling holes.
Step 7
Finish construction of the footboard exactly as you did the headboard.
Step 8
Attach siderail cleats inside the footboard and to the headboard legs. Use 2-1/2" screws to secure.
This completes the footboard.
Consider painting or staining your footboards and headboards and siderails now - then move all the pieces into the room for final assembly.
Step 9
Attach headboard support piece between the siderail cleats.
Step 10
Build the center legs - space the legs about 1/3 the way down - you don't have to be exact here.
Step 11
Attach the center legs inside the bed, splitting the spacing by about 1/3
Step 12
Attach siderails to the siderail cleats.
We recommend using brackets to attach siderails at the top to the headboard and footboard.
POCKET HOLE USERS: Drill a pocket hole at the top and attach.
Step 13
Cut slats and lay about 4" apart in the bed.
Screw down with 2-1/2" screws.
We apologize if there was an error in this plan. Please help us out and report any errors here.
Comments
In reply to Side Rails by John13
ehart3000
Mon, 08/28/2017 - 19:55
Answer to the side rails question
I did a version of this plan and measured 7" from the floor to the bottom of the bed rail. I've also got some detailed instructions on using the rail hardware if that helps anyone as well as some comments on my post about not using a box sring for the king version (I've done Queens and Fulls of this design as well).
Good building!
Ed
Spcschaffer
Tue, 06/19/2018 - 06:15
Frame with a box spring
I would like a way to make this bed come apart easily and noticed that some have used bed mortis brackets to mount on the out of the posts rather than on the inside with screws.. this is a great technique but by my by my calculations that would leave you an 83” in width from side rail to side rail versus the 76” that you end up with in this plan by putting the rails on the posts in the inside with screws.. I use a box spring and mattress and 2x10 as rails to hide the box spring as well.. so after lots of thinking if I mounted the rails on the front of the posts using the mortis brackets and shortened the headboard and footboard to 76” or 76.5 inches would this make up for the excess space that you get by not putting the rails on the inside of the posts? I am really needing something for a box spring to be used on this bed and the bed is easily taken apart... can you please help?
Respectfully,
Theresa
Nor
Tue, 05/28/2019 - 17:57
Thank you for updating this…
Thank you for updating this plan. It's so much easier now to follow for a standard king. Just in time too because our king mattress is on its way.
Smalltownbigdreams
Fri, 05/31/2019 - 09:41
Could you explain further…
Could you explain further how you are attaching the center legs through the panel? Are you angling the screws from the center leg into the panel?
KariAnn0929
Mon, 06/10/2019 - 12:04
I notice that we are…
I notice that we are supposed to put screws into the footboard from the front paneling and top to secure the pieces of wood. How does one go about hiding these screw holes? Would wood filler or putty work?
foster428
Mon, 09/16/2019 - 12:18
Hi. We are almost done…
Hi. We are almost done making this bed and super excited. We love the color you use in the first picture - what stains did you use/ do you have instructions on how we can make it look like this? Thank you!
rbernier09
Thu, 10/03/2019 - 10:51
Screw thread size
What size screw to use? #8 or #10? Thanks.
In reply to Screw thread size by rbernier09
Ana White
Thu, 10/03/2019 - 14:39
If you can get a #8 that…
If you can get a #8 that would be better. The #10s are so much harder to drive and tend to split wood more often.
countrylmart90…
Sun, 10/27/2019 - 08:20
stain finish
What type of stain was used to get the white washed look in original king size bed photo?
Mookada225
Sat, 11/23/2019 - 00:21
Good
I am glad to read the information you shared on this page about. <a href="http://saskatoonsports.com/">saskatoonsports</a>