Farmhouse Bed - Standard King Size

Submitted by Ana White on Tue, 05/28/2019 - 16:18
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This stunning (and extra sturdy!) Farmhouse King Bed frame costs just a fraction to build vs buy.  It's made of solid wood and you won't need a ton of tools to whip it out.  You'll love the step by step diagrams, shopping list and cut list.

We also have Queen Farmhouse Bed Plans, and check out our full room build with this bed and matching nightstands. 

Reader submitted photo by JHAVINGA

beautiful farmhouse bed in king size

The very first real project that I ever tackled all by myself was this EXACT Farmhouse Bed in King size.

farmhouse bed grey paint

I remember being stunned at how well the project turned out.  And here we are, over a decade later, and it's still just as beautiful, just as sturdy, and I'm just as stunned.

The farmhouse beds have been built thousands of times and is a reader favorite.


What Wood Do You Use

We use standard off the shelf lumber to build - just framing lumber and common boards.  You can of course build with any type of wood, just make sure your material dimensions match dimensional lumber sizes (for example a 2x4 is actually 1-1/2" x 3-1/2").


Matching Nightstands

This bed is quite substantial and deserves matching nightstands.  I have put together nightstand plans that are designed to match - so you can get a full bedroom furniture set!

matching farmhouse nightstands


Updated Farmhouse King Bed Plans

We have updated these plans to be easier to build and not require pocket holes.  You can still access the old plans here.

If you need a different sized farmhouse bed, check out all our farmhouse bed plans here.

Dimensions diagram for king farmhouse bed
Designed to fit STANDARD king approximately 76" x 80


Shopping List

2 - 4x4, 8 feet long

1 - 2x2, 8 feet long

7 - 1x6, 8 feet long

4 - 1x4, 8 feet long

2 - 2x6, 8 feet long OR stud length

2 - 1x10 OR 2x10 @ 8 feet long

18* - 2x4, 8 feet long OR stud length

2 small L brackets (1-1/2" wings)

2 straight brackets (6" overall length)

150 - 1-1/4" brad nails

150 - 2-1/2" self tapping wood screws (try SPAX or similar)

*Includes 11 2x4s for the mattress slats.  You can substitute 1x4s, 1x3s, ripped plywood etc for the slats if you have other materials on hand


Cut List


2 - 4x4 @ 54" - headboard legs

2 - 2x2 @ 30" - headboard cleats

14 - 1x6 @ 30" - headboard panel

2 - 1x4 @ about 77" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x4 @ about 84" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x6 @ about 86" - measure and cut to fit



2 - 4x4 @ 21" - footboard legs

2 - 2x2 @ 8" - footboard cleats

2 - 2x2 @ 3" - footboard cleats

14 - 1x6 @ 15" - footboard panel

2 - 1x4 @ about 77" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x4 @ about 84" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x6 @ about 86" - measure and cut to fit



4 - 2x4 @ 83-1/2" - mattress supports

1 - 2x4 @ ~77" - headboard tie in - cut to fit

4 - 2x4 @ 12-1/2" - center legs

2 - 1x10 or 2x10 @ 80"

11 - 2x4 @ ~77" cut to fit - mattress slats


Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander


Step 1

Attach 2x2 cleats flush to the back of the legs, with 2-1/2" screws


NOTE: Pocket hole users can skip this step

Step 2

Layout the 1x6 headboard panels, and measure the overall width.

Cut 1x4 boards to this measurement.

Attach 1x6 boards to the 1x4s with glue and 1-1/4" brad nails from the back side to hide nail holes.

Make sure you apply glue between the 1x6 boards as you go.

Check to make sure that the panel is constructed square (NOT a parallelogram) 


POCKET HOLE USERS: Attach 1x4s to the 4x4 legs with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.  Then nail the 1x6s to the 1x4s inside the headboard panel.

Step 3

Attach panel to the 2x2 cleats with 2-1/2" screws and glue.  Also attach with a few 1-1/4" nails through front side into the 2x2 cleat where there is no 1x4.


POCKET HOLE USERS can skip this step

Step 4

Measure the top overall width.  Cut a 2x4 to this width.  Attach with glue and screws to top of headboard.

Step 5

Cut a 2x6 2" longer than the 2x4.  

Attach with 1" overhang on all sides with 2-1/2" screws and glue.

This completes the headboard build.

Step 6

The footboard is constructed the same as the headboard, with the exception of the 2x2 cleats on the back so that the siderail cleats can notch in.  

If you have trouble with your smaller 2x2 splitting try predrilling holes.

Step 7

Finish construction of the footboard exactly as you did the headboard.

Step 8

Attach siderail cleats inside the footboard and to the headboard legs.  Use 2-1/2" screws to secure.

This completes the footboard.

Consider painting or staining your footboards and headboards and siderails now - then move all the pieces into the room for final assembly.

Step 9

Attach headboard support piece between the siderail cleats.

Step 10

Build the center legs - space the legs about 1/3 the way down - you don't have to be exact here.

Step 11

Attach the center legs inside the bed, splitting the spacing by about 1/3

Step 12

Attach siderails to the siderail cleats.

We recommend using brackets to attach siderails at the top to the headboard and footboard.

POCKET HOLE USERS: Drill a pocket hole at the top and attach.

Step 13

Cut slats and lay about 4" apart in the bed.
Screw down with 2-1/2" screws.



Mon, 01/09/2017 - 18:42

Hi Ana;

Just a little stumped on a few things.  A)  How High did you mount the side rails and B) What hardware was used to attach the side rails. - Loving the site!


In reply to by John13

Clint Porter

Tue, 04/18/2017 - 19:26

Hi John,

I'll take a shot at this since nobody has replied.  I made two of these beds for my daughters but in a twin size. I ran into the same problem with the bed rails.  After a little digging I came accross some hardware that Rockler sells.  I'll add the link to the bottom of this post and pictures of what it looks like on their beds.  


As far as the height of the bed rails, what I did (not initially but after multiple attempts) was take the thickness of my mattress and box spring which was 26", get a piece of wood or ruler or whatever you can make to the height of your mattress and box spring and just hold it up against the head board and see where you want the height of your mattress to be when its all built.  Once you found that sweet spot, mount the top of your bed rail so that its flush with the top of your box spring.  This is important if you are going to use a bed skirt otherwise your bed skirt will be coming up over the bed rail and will just look weird.  That should solve that issue.  Here is the Rockler link Also here are some pictures of my beds and the side rails.


Hope that helps

In reply to by John13


Mon, 08/28/2017 - 19:55

I did a version of this plan and measured 7" from the floor to the bottom of the bed rail.  I've also got some detailed instructions on using the rail hardware if that helps anyone as well as some comments on my post about not using a box sring for the king version (I've done Queens and Fulls of this design as well).

Good building!


Tue, 06/19/2018 - 06:15

I would like a way to make this bed come apart easily and noticed that some have used bed mortis brackets to mount on the out of the posts rather than on the inside with screws.. this is a great technique but by my by my calculations that would leave you an 83” in width from side rail to side rail versus the 76” that you end up with in this plan by putting the rails on the posts in the inside with screws.. I use a box spring and mattress and 2x10 as rails to hide the box spring as well.. so after lots of thinking if I mounted the rails on the front of the posts using the mortis brackets and shortened the headboard and footboard to 76” or 76.5 inches would this make up for the excess space that you get by not putting the rails on the inside of the posts? I am really needing something for a box spring to be used on this bed and the bed is easily taken apart... can you please help? 




Tue, 05/28/2019 - 17:57

Thank you for updating this plan. It's so much easier now to follow for a standard king. Just in time too because our king mattress is on its way.


Mon, 06/10/2019 - 12:04

I notice that we are supposed to put screws into the footboard from the front paneling and top to secure the pieces of wood. How does one go about hiding these screw holes? Would wood filler or putty work?


Mon, 09/16/2019 - 12:18

Hi. We are almost done making this bed and super excited. We love the color you use in the first picture - what stains did you use/ do you have instructions on how we can make it look like this? Thank you!