Community Brag Posts

I've been a fan of Ana White’s Round Farmhouse Table for years, always intending to build it, but life kept getting in the way. Last year, after we remodeled our kitchen, my wife mentioned she wanted a 5-foot round table for the dining room. I immediately thought of Ana's design, but with no space to work on it, the project was delayed. That all changed in January when I discovered our community's Woodworking Club offering a 6-week class where you could bring your own project. I jumped at the chance!

While Ana White’s plans are geared toward simple tools, I was fortunate to have access to a fully equipped woodshop and guidance from a former high school shop teacher. With these resources, the Round Farmhouse Table became my personal project—and I decided to make a few custom modifications to fit my vision.

Leg Design: I didn’t want the legs to look like basic 2x4s. My instructor suggested ordering rough-cut poplar and shaping it myself. With $150 worth of poplar delivered, I learned to use the jointer, planer, and tablesaw to mill the pieces I needed for both the legs and tabletop.

Seating & Structure: Since I wanted the table to comfortably seat six, I was concerned the original four-leg design would interfere with the chairs. So, I reimagined the table with three legs instead of four. This led to a big departure from the original plans. I created a hexagon core using 1x6 and 1x2 boards, and I even learned vCarve Pro to design a custom core base on the CNC router.

Mobility: Knowing we might need to move the table in the future, I designed it to be disassembled. The table breaks down into five pieces—the tabletop, three legs, and core base. Two bolts per leg securely attach the top to the base, making it easy to take apart and transport.

The tabletop was finished with a whitewash and sealed with TotalBoat Halcyon poly. I stained the legs with a deep Graphite color, finishing them with a satin poly spray for a smooth, polished look.

This project was a blast, and I couldn’t have done it without the inspiration from Ana White. Thanks for the great plans, Ana! - Scott Fosseen

My father-in-law and I knocked this project out in about 5 hours including the trip to the lumber yard. You've got a great basic design here! A few modifications we made:

1. I thought the depth of the shelves in the original plan was a little too shallow so I used 3 2"X6"s instead of the 4 2"x4"s. That made the shelves 1 1/2" deeper. Although 2"x6"s are obviously more expensive, the overall cost for the project didn't change much because we only had to use 3 boards per shelf instead of 4. This also reduced the amount of screwing and made it easier to position the shelf boards without taking measurements since we only had one middle board to deal with (instead of 2 with the 2"x4"s). We just eyeballed the spacing of the middle shelf board as we worked.

2. Since our garage has a 10' ceiling, I decided to go 8' tall with the unit. This allowed us to add a 5th shelf.

3. Some oversized tubs can be 18-20" high or more so I varied the height of each shelf -- 24" at the bottom, then 20", 18" and 16". There's approx. 24" available between the top shelf and the ceiling.

4. Due to the position of the garage door track, I had to notch out a couple feet at one side. The end support piece is only 6' high.

5. Since many storage tubs can be 16-18" wide, I made sure that there was at least 54" between 3 of the vertical support structures. This will allow us to store 3 tubs side-by-side and maximize storage. You might notice that I have two vertical supports that appear to be very close together near the back wall. I did this so I would have something on that side to attach more shelving to on that short wall where the garage door opener is. 

The only cuts we had to make for this entire project were for the 18 1/2" 'braces' or support pieces on the vertical ladder structures. The shelves are either 14' or 12' (top shelf only) and the vertical 2"x4"s are either 8' or 6'. Most lumber yards will carry these lengths in either 2"x4"s or 2"x6"s. 

We didn't use any wood glue, and I admit this may come back to haunt me. However, to get a good fit and eliminate gaps, I used clamps I already owned to squeeze the boards together before adding the screws. Everything feels very solid and sturdy to me. 

Because of the extra height compared with the original plan, I was worried about it possibly tipping over (we have a 10-year-old who likes to climb ) so I made sure that 3 of the supports are lined up with the wall studs. After leveling the entire unit, I plan to anchor it to the wall using 3 1/2" screws.

So for about $187 in lumber and maybe $20 in construction screws, I've got 76 feet of STURDY shelving that should accommodate hundreds of pounds! Not a bad investment at all...

Modern plant stand/end table. - James from Virginia Beach VA

I am loving my new garage shelves.  They were my first woodworking project and very easy to do!  I left the bottom right side open to fit my outdoor table and chairs in the winter (I live in Michigan).  I also used thicker plywood than plan because my shelves are a bit deeper.

From start to completion, it was exactly two weeks.  One of those weeks, I was sick and didn't get a chance to do much.  I believe we picked the hottest days to work on this project, so we were taking more breaks than actually working.

My dog loves to people watch all day while I'm at work and she needed a new bed so I took the plans for the lower platform and modified them so it would stand alone. Took the platform and put it on the bottom so that her bed would sit inside instead of on top where she could more easily fall off.

I tried building without PH screws at first and all I ended up with was a lot of cracked and wasted lumber. Got the PH jig and finished the whole build myself in 2 hours. Sanding, staining, and sealing tomorrow but I'm just so excited about it I had to post now!

Just finished up this unique TV console.  Built from reclaimed pallet wood. 

Here we have a Parsons style dining table built out of solid Alder wood. The table length is 72" but can extend up to 110" with two drop in leaves on either end. The table was clear coated with a satin poly.

I ABSOLUTELY LOVE THIS CABINET! It's the perfect finishing touch to our kitchen remodel. We are still waiting on the finishing touch; a hand-polished Hoosier style latch for the doors. We found them at House of Antique Hardware. I will say that this cabinet required "non-mortising" hinges, ones that don't require you to dig out anything in the wood and that don't bulge up together in the space behind the door. These were nearly impossible to find in our town in a small enough size, even with the two big box stores and smaller hardware shops. We had to order them online HardwareSource. These were cheap at this source and we even ordered two styles in case we didn't like one of them. A local shop could order them for us @ 6 hinges for 48$!! The ones we found online came to $17 with shipping.

We modified our cabinet a bit because we wanted it to have feet that were different than the original plan. I have a thing about cabinetry that I can't see under! So, we just made the cabinet flat bottomed instead of having the bottom shelf sit higher and the facade on the bottom front. We also added I-frames to the interior of the doors because we have high humidity where we are and we thought it might help keep the doors keep their shape over time.

After building just the bookshelf part, we kept looking at it like we couldn't believe we built it. It's really beautiful. We do a lot of remodeling, demolition, and rebuilding in our home, but have always been intimidated by building furniture until finding this site.

My husband was so jazzed by our newfound furniture building skills that he built the planter/trellis for his mother last weekend for her birthday right after we finished this project. Pictures of that will be forthcoming as soon as we plant the rosebush in it. Thank you Ana White!!!!