Outdoor sectional
Made the outdoor sectional. The coffee table was made out of left over pieces!
Made the outdoor sectional. The coffee table was made out of left over pieces!
This is such a cute countertop organizer ! The possibilities for this are endless - maybe a tea / coffee bar or a hot chocolate bar - a breakfast bar or a snack bar ..... I may need to make another one...and definitely one for the bathroom !
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The shelves slide to change the width or turn one and it becomes a corner piece!
Tue, 09/12/2023 - 12:30
So great to see you made this and it turned out awesome! Thank you so much for taking time to share photos.
Your craft table was the kicking off point for this desk. Pine cabinets, plywood drawers, maple top.
Modified from Ana White's Faux Fireplace with Hidden Storage Plan
DIY Greenhouse by Trenton Kirby on Facebook!
I modified the plans for the Classic Bunk beds by making them 74" tall instead of 63" and added a fourth slat all the way around to add more protection from potential falls. I created one opening in the front for my youngest to get into the bottom bunk, and built slats about 2/3's across the front to act as a gaurd rail. I created another opening on the side for my oldest to get into the top bunk with stairs instead of ladders to again prevent falls. I had to modify the Sweet Pea stairs to accomodate for the extra height in the bunk beds, simplified the railings, and I created each cubby to be big enough to use cloth storage totes that were 11x11x11. Sanded the whole bed and stairs so the corners and edges were all rounded and smooth, and put two coats of white Deck and Porch paint to stand up to the the boys running up and down. I used brackets to secure the stairs to the bed, and sixteen 3" bolts to bind the bed together. Precut and drilled 17 slats for each bed seperated them 2" apart. Spent a few hours every night during the week measuring, cutting, glueing, drilling and assembling the bed and stairs. Spent an entire weekend sanding and painting. Very happy with the way these beds turned out. Overall cost of the project including the paint was around $400.
I made this table to go next to an outdoor grill to be used as a food prep area or just a surface for holding ingredients (instead of using the deck railing!). The top is stainless steel which fits tightly over 2 3/4" pieces of plywood laminated together. The bar/handle in front is made out of galvanized pipe. All wood was treated.
Legs - 4x4 posts
Bottom shelf - 1x6's
Sides - 1x4's
Top - 2 pieces of 3/4" plywood laminated together with a stainless steel top (custom fit) over top
Towel bar - galvanized pipe (cut and threaded to size at Lowe's), floor flanges and 90 degree elbows
Thu, 05/15/2014 - 10:33
Sorry about the late reply! Yes, I just gave my dimensions to a local steel supplier and they made the top. I think I have about $40 into the stainless. They didn't weld the corners but I've never had an issue with them.
Sat, 04/26/2014 - 15:41
I too would like to know your source for the sheet metal.
In reply to Stainless steel sheet metal by Pursuit of Handyness
Thu, 05/15/2014 - 10:35
I just found a local steel supplier, told them what I need and they formed the top. It cost me around $40 (without welding of the corners). I took a fine grit sandpaper to it afterward to scuff it up so it didn't look so bright.
In reply to Stainless steel sheet metal by Pursuit of Handyness
Thu, 05/15/2014 - 10:35
I just found a local steel supplier, told them what I need and they formed the top. It cost me around $40 (without welding of the corners). I took a fine grit sandpaper to it afterward to scuff it up so it didn't look so bright.
Wed, 04/30/2014 - 12:55
I would like to know are there any plans available to make this table? I am very impressed of its design.
In reply to Grill table with stainless steel top by AMR4412
Thu, 05/15/2014 - 10:46
No...I didn't have any plans when I built it but it's a very simple concept. I chose to use all treated wood since I knew it would be sitting outside unprotected. However, my 4x4 posts weren't square so this caused a lot of problems and everything was built to fit. I believe I just used 4x4's, 1X6s (for the bottom shelf) and 1x4s for the sides (top and bottom). For the top, I just laminated 2 pieces of 3/4" plywood together to bulk it up and then had the stainless top built to fit. It fit perfectly so I didn't glue it to the plywood. This makes it easy to remove and clean, if necessary. For the galvanized pipe (towel bar), I bought it at Lowe's and had them cut/thread it to fit my dimensions.
Loved this build had to make it smaller but wow.
Paula
We went off the Farmhouse table and bench design but had to customize the length of the table and bench so that it fit in our kitchen space. The table was our first ever project and we made a few mistakes but learned from them and built the bench and are hoping to move up to the Farmhouse bed and then the fullstorage bed.
I loved the Idea of new closet doors and hated the idea of bi-folds. My house is crooked it seems. The doors don't sit straight and bi-folds always fall off their tracks. When I came upon the plans for Bypass Doors from Old Paint Designs I was hooked! I made 4 doors for the hallway in 1 day, oiled it with Danish Oil in Dark Walnut, hung it the next day and what a difference!! Glass is rather expensive in Hawaii and so is plexi-glass so I opted for Bead Board which gave it a more "country" feel instead of a more modern feel. I wish I could have used glass but the $150 price tag just wasn't fitting into my budget very well. My hubby loved the bypass doors so much he asked me to build them for our open closet. 2 days of work, 8 doors, 2 closets done!
Thu, 01/26/2012 - 13:48
Those turned out great. Love the bead-board and color.
Thu, 01/26/2012 - 23:24
Wow! Those turned out great! I love the idea of using beadboard - so creative!
In reply to Wow! Those turned out great! by oldpaintdesign
Fri, 02/17/2012 - 17:13
Thank you for your plans...love them. I've been asked to help a friend of mine build some doors for his house!
Tue, 08/28/2012 - 15:27
Great job on the doors! I am interested in doing this myself. I will have to make 4 doors for my closet as well since I have such a large opening. Can you tell me what the measurments of your closets are? Also what are the dimensions of the pine that you used? Thanks a bunch!
In reply to Bypass Closet Doors by Jilley27 (not verified)
Tue, 08/28/2012 - 18:44
My closet opening is about 8' across. Each door is 26" wide and 79" tall. I made them so the would have a 1" overlap on each side...
I used 1x6 @ 8' lengths of pine. I like the really knotty pine with lots of character! Have fun building! These were pretty simple to make once you get all the boards cut.
We wanted to make a large sandbox for lots of kids. We love that it has an easy cover and two large benches to sit.
Supplies and Steps are shared at http://myhomedonemyway.blogspot.com/2013/07/building-6-x-8-sandbox.html
Wed, 02/26/2014 - 13:37
I hope sharing this will inspire others of things that they can make. Check out my blog for other DIY projects: http://myhomedonemyway.blogspot.com
Built this over the weekend for my girlfriends sister. It was a great project and the whole family was able to work together on it, sanding and waterproofing it before assembling. The loveseat plans need a little tweaking. We ran ran the slats the same direction as the chair plans call for so we added a middle support for extra stability. We also pitched the seating down towards the back by 5* to make a more natural sitting position.
I scaled back the length of the sofa by a few inches and I made the sectional only one seat to fit my space on the deck. This was my first woodworking project that I did by myself. I got the cushions for more than 1/2 off at Ikea so the whole project cost about $150 ($80 for the cushions). It took me about a week to complete but the total time was less than 10 hours to build and stain. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.
Beautiful bed build. shared by Leslie.
I used Ana’s Shelf Help Configurator to build these shelves for a deeply sloped ceiling. None of those well known Closet Organizer Companies could come up with a decent plan for this closet and they charge a small fortune.
We chose this project because we have a small garage and space is at a premium. The dimensions of this build fit well in our limited space and allowed us to organize items such as paint, stain, screws and nails into one central location. I chose 2x4's on the sides to give it a more stable feel. Our garage and parking lot are all sloped and with the 2x4's this prevented the twisting. It feels solid and the wheels are smooth. We picked everything up at Home Depot. The screws that came with the hinges are to long and my husband used the Dremel to grind them down. You could just buy shorter screws. This is one of my firsts builds and I've definitely learned a lot of lessons along the way. Measure, measure, then measure again before you cut a piece and use a level surface to make level pieces. Overall, everyone in my family played a part in helping me build this piece and so I love it and will cherish this piece and the memories always. Thanks Ana for all your fun videos, sharing your life with your family, and providing resources like this plan to us for free. I'm thankful for my son who bought me a compound miter saw for Mother's Day and other family for buying me a Ryobi circular saw. I'm truly blessed and loved. Thanks
Mon, 08/31/2020 - 11:19
I love how you used the 2x4 on the sides. great idea
Ana, thanks for these plans! They inspired me to make my first bed build. I also want to thank all of you that added brag posts! They gave me ideas for some of the modifications that I made. I did this build by mixing your Queen Farmhouse and Queen Farmhouse Storage bed plans. I also added a number of modifications to suit my own preferences. The drawer boxes I changed by building a faceplate (I didn't want the plywood ends exposed), and by increasing in depth to maximize some additional storage. Since I increased the drawer sizes, I went with the euro roller bearing slides. I increased the foot-board height to be slightly higher than the mattress. I also designed the footboard to have a removable inner section with hidden latches on the inside. I did this because I wanted to make use of the "dead space" between the drawer boxes. I then used this space to house a hidden drawer, that is approx six feet deep (I couldn't help myself-I love hidden drawers ). Because I added the hidden drawer, I changed the opptional center support to 4X4 blockes that were pocket screwed under the center of the boxes. I ended up using birch plywood and fir for this build. For my first bed build I'm fairly happy with how it came out. Thanks again!
Thu, 12/11/2014 - 07:41
This is your first build and you did all of those awesome modifications?! Really impressive and it looks perfect! Congrats and welcome to the community!
In reply to Seriously?! by spiceylg
Sun, 12/14/2014 - 06:03
Thanks for the compliments! It was a fun learning experience. Making all the modifications definitely slowed down the build, but also made it more rewarding!
Fri, 12/12/2014 - 13:18
I just started my bed (mostly out of Baltic Birch) and am wondering where you were able to find such nice 4x4s. Your bed is gorgeous! No luck here. I bought redwood, but really wanted fir for the sharper edges. It's my first project, too. I also bought same drawer slides, but the soft close. Didn't want the slam. I figure building it will be the easy part compared to procuring nice 4x4s! Hope you can help!
Sun, 12/14/2014 - 06:01
Thanks! The 4x4s I found at a place called Better Living Building Supply. They had a pretty nice assortment of fir, including the 4x4s, so that is why I chose it for the build. Finding the 4x4s slowed down my start on the build. Our local Lowes only had them in treated pine.
Sat, 09/05/2015 - 20:47
Thank you for the pictures, the bed turned out Awesome. I was wondering about the latching system for the foot of the bed. Do you think a piano hinge on the lower would work too? Also on the center drawer did you use rollers or is it just friction? Can't wait to start the build.
Thanks
Mon, 02/15/2016 - 14:11
This is excellent!!! I really like this, so much in fact that the wife is going to have to get used to it too. lol But really, GREAT work! Any chance you could post a pic and or comment about how you attached that removeable end? i think this is the best part! Cheers!
Wed, 10/24/2018 - 23:21
How can I get / purchase the plans for the construction of the bed ?
Tue, 12/10/2019 - 08:42
Beekeeper, Awesome build!!! Have you posted your altered plans anywhere? I'm very interested in your build, I was wondering about some aspects of it and how you approached it. Plans would clear it up instead of bothering you with all my questions.
Mon, 11/16/2020 - 15:42
Bed turned out awesome. I was wondering if you have the plans for the bed with a list of supplies it took to make this bed. I so want this bed it's just what we are needing
Great job
I made a few modifications from the original plans as I wanted to have some visibility into the cabinets. I used natural pine and finished with a tea, vinegar/steel wool solution to give it the reclaimed wood look.
Wed, 08/17/2016 - 23:42
Would you have plans available for the modifications that you made? This is beautiful!!
Mon, 07/22/2019 - 10:52
Do you have plans for the modifications you made on the doors? Thank you
I built this for my daughter after building a ladder shelf for my kids bathroom. It took more time to install and adjust the drawer slides and paint the project.
Sat, 09/07/2019 - 03:32
Hi mltdblack
Really nice finish on the cabinet.
It looks like there’s molding on top of your mirror.
Did you buy a mirror with a frame or buy molding and put it on over the mirror?
What molding did you use an how did you secure it?
What size mirror did you use? Thanks
Fri, 01/07/2022 - 14:14
I am so sorry. This is the first I am seeing your question. The mirror came with a frame and I carefully nailed thru the frame to attach with my 18 gauge nailer. I bought the mirror at Lowe’s and I believe it was 15.5” x 50”. Also, I used full extension soft close drawer slides.
My second building project... this one took quite a while, building in the evenings after the kids went to bed.
The playhouse is based off of Ana's Playhouse Building series, with some modifications to fit the space in my backyard and accommodate climbing wall, monkey bars, and slide.
To put the main deck structure into the ground for sturdiness while protecting from moisture, I dug out 5 holes to fit single hole cinder blocks (4 corners plus an extra 4x4 for the monkey bars; you can see an leftover block on the ground in one of the pictures). I placed some brick in the holes, then the cinder blocks on top. I then partially filled the cinder blocks with sand, put the pre-built deck in the cinder block holes (with help - it's heavy!), and then filled the rest of the cinder block holes with sand. It's worked remarkably well - the deck has been up for about a year now. I also sprayed some clear waterproof sealant on the bottom part of each beam near the ground for extra protection (deck, monkey bars, climbing walls, and swingset A-frame). This has allowed me to still run sprinklers near/around the playset and even grow grass underneath the swings!
Materials used:
* Playhouse: pine, plywood, Suntuf solar grey polycarbonate corrugated roofing panels (I live in Arizona, so little rain to worry about but lots of heat - the sheeting lets light in but blocks most of the UV rays, corrugated shape also provides venting at top when placed sideways)
* Deck/Swingset/Monkey bars: treated lumber, composite decking, pine for railings, monkey bars purchased from Amazon
* Climbing wall: pine, treated lumber, handholds/railing bought off ebay/Amazon
* Swings/slide/bongos/wheel, telescope: purchased from Amazon
Modifications:
* Turned playhouse 90 degrees to be in back of the deck, with swingset coming off the side. This meant the support beam for the swingset had to pass through the playhouse - modified the frame for that wall slightly and created a notch for the beam to pass through.
* Slide comes out one end of playhouse - made the "window" on that end larger than the plans called for in order to give room for the slide.
* Monkey bars come off one side of the deck - used extra 4x4 here to create support for the bars, and used extra bars to make a ladder on this side
* Climbing wall instead of ladder for main entrance
* Put large window in back wall of the playhouse
* Added cross bracing to side of decking on swingset end to make it more solid/cut down on sway when swinging
Tue, 04/29/2014 - 20:41
This is phenomenal - just the plan & design we've been looking for. Can you upload a few more pictures? Any sketches you can provide? Shopping list? Really great job - I hope your kids love it. It looks awesome.
Wed, 09/10/2014 - 14:03
Thanks! It's certainly nestled in right behind that tree - I originally was going to place it in between that tree and another one but then decided to just place it behind them in order to take better advantage of shade (critical in AZ) and fit in everything I wanted to put on it (monkey bars, swings, slide, climbing wall)
Mon, 07/08/2019 - 00:48
We've been looking at these type of players for our son, and good grief! Prices are astronomical for playsets that are NOTHING like this. This absolutely an amazing place for those boys to make memories. You're amazing! Do you mind if I ask what it cost once it was finished? I never imagined that it would cause a tic in my eye to look at the kids from Lowe's or anywhere else for that matter.
Tue, 08/20/2019 - 10:14
I don't remember how much it cost in the end... but probably around $900? That may include getting some tools that I needed but didn't have at the time. The slide was the most expensive single piece I bought - I think I got it from Amazon.
When it was all done, I remember thinking that what I got for my money was *way* beyond what I would have gotten by purchasing a kit or a pre-built play structure. Plus, by going my own way, I was able to build it to fit my space and the needs/abilities of my kids.
While the whole thing is big and looks like an intimidating build, it really isn't bad - the platform is a fairly blank base to design everything else off of, and is incredibly sturdy. Everything else is a discrete part that branches off of the platform and can be planned out as you need. Adding the monkey bars required putting in a 5th upright (the first 4 are the corners), but that was an easy modification since I knew I wanted it before building the platform. The playhouse just sat on top of the platform (screwed down, of course).
Sat, 08/01/2020 - 20:40
Hello. This is pretty cool, probably the best modification that I am looking for from Ana's default plans. Could you please add some more detail on the right side wall, and how you incorporated the support beam through the playhouse? (with maybe a picture from inside of that wall). And secondly, if you can add the dimensions for the monkey bar setup on the left side of the deck? Thanks, much appreciated
Comments
Ana White
Wed, 10/02/2019 - 09:54
So smart to make the coffee…
So smart to make the coffee table out of the spare pieces.
Looks amazing!
devanino
Thu, 06/18/2020 - 12:02
May I ask where you found…
May I ask where you found the cushions!?