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Farmhouse Bed - Standard King Size

farmhouse bed king size
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Difficulty
Intermediate
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This stunning (and extra sturdy!) Farmhouse King Bed frame costs just a fraction to build vs buy.  It's made of solid wood and you won't need a ton of tools to whip it out.  You'll love the step by step diagrams, shopping list and cut list.

We also have Queen Farmhouse Bed Plans, and check out our full room build with this bed and matching nightstands. 

Reader submitted photo by JHAVINGA and Anonomous

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No Pocket Hole Plans

The very first real project that I ever tackled all by myself was this EXACT Farmhouse Bed in King size.

farmhouse bed grey paint

I remember being stunned at how well the project turned out.  And here we are, over a decade later, and it's still just as beautiful, just as sturdy, and I'm just as stunned.

The farmhouse beds have been built thousands of times and is a reader favorite.

What Wood Do You Use

We use standard off the shelf lumber to build - just framing lumber and common boards.  You can of course build with any type of wood, just make sure your material dimensions match dimensional lumber sizes (for example a 2x4 is actually 1-1/2" x 3-1/2").

Matching Nightstands

This bed is quite substantial and deserves matching nightstands.  I have put together nightstand plans that are designed to match - so you can get a full bedroom furniture set!

matching farmhouse nightstands

Updated Farmhouse King Bed Plans

We have updated these plans to be easier to build and not require pocket holes.  You can still access the old plans here.

If you need a different sized farmhouse bed, check out all our farmhouse bed plans here.

Pin For Later! 

Farmhouse Bed King Size

Dimensions
Dimensions diagram for king farmhouse bed
Designed to fit STANDARD king approximately 76" x 80

Preparation

Shopping List

2 - 4x4, 8 feet long

1 - 2x2, 8 feet long

7 - 1x6, 8 feet long

4 - 1x4, 8 feet long

2 - 2x6, 8 feet long OR stud length

2 - 1x10 OR 2x10 @ 8 feet long

18* - 2x4, 8 feet long OR stud length

2 small L brackets (1-1/2" wings)

2 straight brackets (6" overall length)

150 - 1-1/4" brad nails

150 - 2-1/2" self tapping wood screws (try SPAX or similar)

*Includes 11 2x4s for the mattress slats.  You can substitute 1x4s, 1x3s, ripped plywood etc for the slats if you have other materials on hand

Common Materials
Elmer's Wood Glue
Elmer's Wood Filler
Cut List

HEADBOARD CUT LIST

2 - 4x4 @ 54" - headboard legs

2 - 2x2 @ 30" - headboard cleats

14 - 1x6 @ 30" - headboard panel

2 - 1x4 @ about 77" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x4 @ about 84" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x6 @ about 86" - measure and cut to fit

FOOTBOARD CUT LIST

2 - 4x4 @ 21" - footboard legs

2 - 2x2 @ 8" - footboard cleats

2 - 2x2 @ 3" - footboard cleats

14 - 1x6 @ 15" - footboard panel

2 - 1x4 @ about 77" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x4 @ about 84" - measure and cut to fit

1 - 2x6 @ about 86" - measure and cut to fit

MATTRESS SUPPORT FRAME/SIDERAILS

4 - 2x4 @ 83-1/2" - mattress supports

1 - 2x4 @ ~77" - headboard tie in - cut to fit

4 - 2x4 @ 12-1/2" - center legs

2 - 1x10 or 2x10 @ 80"

11 - 2x4 @ ~77" cut to fit - mattress slats

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander

Instructions

Step 1

diagram of cleats attached to headboard legs

Attach 2x2 cleats flush to the back of the legs, with 2-1/2" screws

 

NOTE: Pocket hole users can skip this step

Step 2

diagram showing headboard panel construction

Layout the 1x6 headboard panels, and measure the overall width.

Cut 1x4 boards to this measurement.

Attach 1x6 boards to the 1x4s with glue and 1-1/4" brad nails from the back side to hide nail holes.

Make sure you apply glue between the 1x6 boards as you go.

Check to make sure that the panel is constructed square (NOT a parallelogram) 

 

POCKET HOLE USERS: Attach 1x4s to the 4x4 legs with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.  Then nail the 1x6s to the 1x4s inside the headboard panel.

Step 3

Attach panel to the 2x2 cleats with 2-1/2" screws and glue.  Also attach with a few 1-1/4" nails through front side into the 2x2 cleat where there is no 1x4.

 

POCKET HOLE USERS can skip this step

Step 4

diagram showing 2x4 attaching to the headboard panel

Measure the top overall width.  Cut a 2x4 to this width.  Attach with glue and screws to top of headboard.

Step 5

diagram showing 2x6 attached to the headboard panel

Cut a 2x6 2" longer than the 2x4.  

Attach with 1" overhang on all sides with 2-1/2" screws and glue.

This completes the headboard build.

Step 6

diagram showing 2x2 cleats attached to the 4x4 legs

The footboard is constructed the same as the headboard, with the exception of the 2x2 cleats on the back so that the siderail cleats can notch in.  

If you have trouble with your smaller 2x2 splitting try predrilling holes.

Step 7

diagram of footboard construction

Finish construction of the footboard exactly as you did the headboard.

Step 8

diagram of siderail cleats attaching to the headboard and footboard

Attach siderail cleats inside the footboard and to the headboard legs.  Use 2-1/2" screws to secure.

This completes the footboard.

Consider painting or staining your footboards and headboards and siderails now - then move all the pieces into the room for final assembly.

Step 9

Attach headboard support piece between the siderail cleats.

Step 10

Build the center legs - space the legs about 1/3 the way down - you don't have to be exact here.

Step 11

Attach the center legs inside the bed, splitting the spacing by about 1/3

Step 12

Attach siderails to the siderail cleats.

We recommend using brackets to attach siderails at the top to the headboard and footboard.

POCKET HOLE USERS: Drill a pocket hole at the top and attach.

Step 13

Cut slats and lay about 4" apart in the bed.
Screw down with 2-1/2" screws.

Project Type
Beds and Bed Frames
King Size Beds and King Bed Frames
Room
Bedroom
Style
Farmhouse Furniture

Comments

Guest (not verified)

Sat, 12/31/2011 - 11:03

Why would you provide plans for a bed that is 80 inches wide when there are no beds made that are that size? Shouldn't you make the plans for a 76 inch wide king (standard) or for a 72 inch wide bed (California).

Rebecca Mitchell (not verified)

Fri, 07/20/2012 - 11:54

My King sized bed is 76 by 80 but we prefer to have it the longer way, so I love these plans.

MonkeyRatt

Fri, 12/09/2016 - 11:30

I realize I am replying to an old post, but since it is high on the list for everyone to see, I thought I should.

You do not actuallt lose anything when the side rails are added. The instructions state that add side rails, you follow the instructions for the Queen Size bed with an arch. When adding side rails per that plan, you are only adding wood that will be under the mattress or box to hold them up. The actual width of the space for the mattress will still be 80". I would assume this blan was designed to be used with a California king. If using a standard King Mattress you should adjust the plan. A standard King Mattress is 76" wide and 80" long. 

Neal J

Sat, 10/05/2019 - 16:03

I realize that I'm responding to an old post, but with all due respect, the person who wrote this post must not have been looking at the plans correctly.

The plans fit a standard king bed perfectly (76" wide x 80" long). I have made this bed in the queen and king size and have had no problems with the dimensions.

I was just reviewing the plans again because I'm going to build another one with built in storage.

Jeralyn24

Fri, 04/16/2021 - 06:28

Did you end up building one with storage? If so I would love to know how you added the storage to the bed. This look is what I want but storage would make it better for the room it will be in. Thanks.

steffany (not verified)

Sat, 01/09/2010 - 15:36

beautiful! I have sent several people your way since yesterday, and they are all as blown away as I am. Thank you for sharing.

Alexandria~~Th… (not verified)

Sat, 01/09/2010 - 17:55

I love, love, love your blog! I stumbled upon you from The Graphics Fairy and love everything.

My husband better get ready because we're about to become carpenters!

Hillary (not verified)

Sat, 01/09/2010 - 18:49

We are planning on upgrading to a king bed and I have been drooling over this bed since I found your blog! Thanks!

Funky Junk Interiors (not verified)

Sun, 01/10/2010 - 11:06

I LOVE this bed, Ana! But then I love everything you do. Your style is so classic.

Thanks for being the incredible inspiration that you are. YOU are encouraging women to build. And to me, that is a very good thing.

Thanks for linking up yet again to SNS! Now go back and pick what print you'd like if you won and comment on it. I'd love to qualify you in the giveaway. ;)

FJ Donna

Ana White (not verified)

Sun, 01/10/2010 - 11:25

DO NOT USE TREATED LUMBER

Sorry for the caps, but I just do not want anyone to put toxins in their homes.

Untreated 4x4 Posts should be readily available at Home Depot or Lowes. In our stores, the 4x4 posts are in a weird location. Perhaps ask an associate for their location. They are also cheap, like $6 for an 8' post. The more "distressed" the better!

ericsodt

Sat, 03/06/2021 - 10:59

Oh how I wish lumber prices remained the same! That same post now costs $16 :(

I would guess that if people tried to build this during the pandemic, it would be at least 3 times the cost...

Proud Daddy (not verified)

Sun, 01/10/2010 - 11:47

Ana that's why I asked the question. I wanted to make sure that wasn't the case. Some of the Lowes depending on where you are at don't have the untreated 4x4's, I am going to check out Home Depot to see if they have them. If not then I will stack 2x4's Thanks for the plans I had planned on building a bed similar to this but was going Wainscoting for the center of the head and foot boards but I actually like the way you are doing it much better and it will be a HECK of alot cheaper.

Ana White (not verified)

Sun, 01/10/2010 - 13:24

Proud Daddy,

Thank you so much for asking the question in a comment. I have actually had tons of emails with the same question, and I wanted to make sure everyone saw it.

You are much appreciated!

Thank you!

Ana

Proud Daddy (not verified)

Sun, 01/10/2010 - 14:00

You are welcome. I am a fairly new woodworker about a year now and that was one of the things that I learned early on. I love the fact that you are using sketchup, I have been modeling some of my thoughts in that. It's a great program. Anyway.. Thanks for the plans and for finally getting my wife interested in woodworking she asked me this afternoon if she could build something. I just finished one of the Hyde end tables and we are going to build the coffee table I made a few changes to the table. I used pocket hole joinery and Used dowls to join the top to the base. I will shoot you over a pic after while. I am going to let her attack the coffee table if she is up to it.

Thanks,

Kevin

Katherine Klegin (not verified)

Tue, 01/19/2010 - 08:12

Hey there! SO excited to start building this! My dad and I are going to make this our little project. Can you help me convert this to a california king though? I would like to include a frame and sideboards as well. You are so talented and I appreciate all of your hard work!

Kate (not verified)

Tue, 01/19/2010 - 12:45

Love, love, love this bed!

Can you please clear something up for me though?

When looking at the (colored) plans for the king size bedframe, I can't get the measurements to add up. Can you please tell me what I am doing wrong?

(10) 8" Panels = 80"
(2) 3" End Pieces = 6"
(2) 4" Posts = 8"

The total of all these pieces is 94".

I don't understand how the plans show an overall width of 89".

HELP...what am I doing wrong!!!!

Thank you so much! I can't wait to make this bed! I'm obsessed! :)

Kate (not verified)

Tue, 01/19/2010 - 12:58

Ok, by reading some of the other comments I think I saw my question answered!

The "actual" measurements are different that the "nominal" measurement.

That makes sense!

Thanks anyway!

Kara (not verified)

Sun, 01/24/2010 - 16:35

Just built the King this weekend. I wanted to note a few errors in the plans. On the shopping list, it calls for (4)1x8x8ft which is 384 inches. The plan calls for 10 30 inch pieces and 10 15 inch pieces which is 450 inches so you actually need (5) 1x8x8ft.

Also when you stack the 10 30 inch pieces with the 2 3 inch pieces the 80 inch band board is too long. I added a 3rd 3 inch piece an it it fit perfectly. Overall, it came out great. Great site, can wait to build more.

Don Current (not verified)

Fri, 07/01/2011 - 07:20

I wish there was a way to move comments like these to the top of the list so people don't miss them. I found the same thing as you. You need an additional 1x8 for a total of (5). I also found that two 1x3's weren't enough, so I went with 1"x4"s to make up the width on mine in place of the 1"x3"s and that worked also. Best thing to do would be to measure what the 1x8's are actually running when you buy your lumber and then determine what size "filler" pieces you need.

Michelle D (not verified)

Mon, 12/31/2012 - 07:46

Thank you for this comment...wish we would have read it before shopping. We are in the middle of making this bed as well and found that (4) 1x8x8 ft was not enough to cut the pieces required. I would appreciate the plan materials list being updated. We are running into some other snags but I think that is more due to the lumber width (as is noted in the plan) and it should still be fine. Love the plan and the look...hoping to have my own brag photo and full review when it's done :)

Laurie (not verified)

Fri, 01/29/2010 - 20:46

I am amazed by your blog. Thanks for going to all this work for us!
I feel like this is the dumbest question--- do you need to sand and prime the wood before you paint it? Can you tell this is my first project?

Ana White (not verified)

Mon, 02/01/2010 - 17:26

Hi Laurie, not a dumb question at all. I don't give alot of information on finishing because there is no right or wrong method to finishing - in other words, you get what you want. I would recommend sanding first to remove any hard edges, wood putty, or soften edges. Depending on your desired finish, you can prime first. If you are trying to keep the wood showning through the paint, I would recommend not priming. My best recommendation is to try out a variety of different finishes before painting.

Whitney (not verified)

Sun, 02/14/2010 - 13:27

My husband and I just got home from the store with our wood for this project! I'm super excited, but confused on one thing. We bought our wood from the "shopping list" and when we got back, we realized the "cut list" has 1x3s. They were not on the shopping list, so I'm wondering if I'm missing something or if we need to go back to the store tomorrow?

Anonymous (not verified)

Fri, 02/19/2010 - 12:30

I have been looking over the plans thoroughly since I very much want to make this bed. I believe a standard king size is 76 wide and 80 long, the 80" length is the same as for a queen. Your plans are geared towards 80" wide and 60" long. Also I can't figure out how in the Queen if you have 60" of space you can fit two 2x10s and 57" joists into a 60" space. 57+4 = 61" or maybe I'm confused

Ana White (not verified)

Fri, 02/19/2010 - 13:41

Okay, let's see if I can tackle this question. There was a typo, but only in reference, the king should in fact be 80" long. The width of a standard king is 76". I made my bed (shown in the picture) 80" wide because we turned our mattress 90 degrees to get the bed to fit better in the room. This plan calls for a headboard of 80" wide. You can build yours 76" wide by resizing your panel boards.

The "cleats" in reference to the queen size are each only 1 1/2" wide, as a 2x board does not measure 2" in width, but 1 1/2".

I hope this makes sense.

hsweeten

Thu, 01/02/2020 - 19:01

Ana, 

My husband and I just recently stumbled upon this bed plan! In searching, I have read that there might be plans that Accommodate a box spring? Do those exist? Standard King size farmhouse bed with box spring??? Thank you, can’t wait to tackle some projects :) 

Anonymous (not verified)

Fri, 02/19/2010 - 16:26

Thank you, that really makes sense, and I bet the bed being 80" long will feel roomier as well.

Anonymous (not verified)

Wed, 03/31/2010 - 06:12

Ana, we are going to make your bed this weekend, but would like to make the rails along with it. Could you put up the measurements for the King size rails and how you did it?

B (not verified)

Fri, 04/09/2010 - 06:48

First and foremost, I LOVE what you do. I stumbled upon your site about 2 weeks ago and have already built a bench that I found here last weekend. I have a question on the beds. Is there a way to make them so you can disassemble them easily for when you move or need to take them out of the room without having to unscrew the side boards?

Please, please please keep writing and inspiring your readers. Best. Site. Ever.

Twigs @ Twiggl… (not verified)

Mon, 06/14/2010 - 14:45

okay guys. i plan on making this bed sometime this month. rough estimate of what it's going to cost me in material?

The Young Family (not verified)

Thu, 07/01/2010 - 04:29

It looks like all plans are designed for no box spring. I can't seem to find what to build if we have box springs???

anonnymouse (not verified)

Wed, 09/15/2010 - 02:09

Could you post a shopping/cut list for a Kingsize bed NOT turned sideways (the mattress in the standard orientation)? My husband is 6'6" and can't fit on it sideways!

Thanks!

anonnymouse (not verified)

Wed, 09/15/2010 - 02:14

I would lower where you attach the side rails 6-8 inches to accommodate a box spring- you also wouldn't need as many cross pieces underneath to support the mattress.

justinorr (not verified)

Sun, 09/19/2010 - 12:45

Just finished my king size farmhouse bed. It looks great! Thanks for the plans Ana. It can be seen in the photos section. (My Farmhouse Bed 1 and My Farmhouse Bed 2). It has the red and white plaid comforter. I used a flat black paint and attempted to distress. Also I found a good altenrative to the 1x8's is using a product called "Barn Siding" that I found at Lowe's. I think this will make the project cheaper and easier. On to night stands.....

Guest (not verified)

Mon, 05/09/2011 - 17:01

Curious about the barn siding. Cannot find pictures of your finished product. Could you post a link?

Ginny Haines (not verified)

Sat, 10/02/2010 - 06:14

Please don't call this King Size if it is not the plans for the standard orientation of a king size bed! You suggested to a previous poster that they just need to re-size the head and foot-boards, but having plans, a buy list and a cut list would be much appreciated for REAL king size. Please reformat the plans for standard king size if you have some spare (ha!) time.

Christy Allen (not verified)

Sat, 10/16/2010 - 05:45

I LOVE this bed but do not have the skill to convert these measurements to a normal king size bed 76 w x 80 L. Could you please post these in a buying and cutting list.
Thanks soooo much.. I was just introduced to this site and it is phenomenal!

kyrsteno (not verified)

Thu, 10/28/2010 - 15:13

I just have a quick question- how would you replace the individual panel peices, for a full panel peice?

ashlee (not verified)

Tue, 11/02/2010 - 16:31

because mags- cosleeping is amazing, and one of the best things you can do to build and maintain a close family bond! children will move to their own beds when they feel secure enough in them to do so!!

ana..!!!! THANK YOU! loove it.

Parie (not verified)

Tue, 11/09/2010 - 17:23

Hi there!

Your talents are incredible! I visit your blog often hoping that someday I will actually tackle one of the plans. I have a question...are the plans on this page for the 80x60 or 76x80. I have never attempted to build anything myself and I want to make sure I'm doing all the right measurements.

Thank you,
Paralee

Frequently Asked Questions

Wood Questions

What kind of wood should I use?
Most of our plans use standard construction lumber like pine or fir. It's affordable, easy to work with, and easy to find. It's also rapidly renewing and biodegradable, so a great eco friendly choice!

Can I use hardwoods instead?
Yes—just keep in mind they're heavier, cost more, and can be tougher on tools and harder to join together and finish. I recommend not tackling a hardwood project until after you have built several softwood projects.

What if my boards are warped?
Choose the straightest boards at the store. You can often work around slight warps by cutting them into shorter pieces.

What wood should I use for outdoor furniture?
Use red-toned or pressure-treated 2x lumber for framing, and cedar or cedar fence pickets for the decking. Outdoor furniture should be built like a deck—your local home center can help recommend the right wood for your climate.

Will my wood move or warp after I build?
Potentially, especially in humid climates. Let your wood acclimate indoors before building. Once acclimated and kept in a stable environment, movement should be minimal. Remember, most houses are built using framing lumber - it's all about keeping moisture down indoors.

Cutting Questions

Do I need a miter saw?
A miter saw is great, creating fast, safe, and precise cuts, even for beginners. But most plans can be built with a circular saw and a straight edge. If using a circular saw to cut, take time to practice, and get good at making cuts, before cutting your project boards.

How do I get clean cuts with a circular saw?
Clamp your board, measure twice, cut slow, and use a sharp blade. This takes practice, so spend some time making cuts. I go through becoming proficient at freehand cutting in my course, it is worth taking if you want to master this skill.

Will the store cut my wood?
Yes—most stores will do rough cuts to help you transport your materials home. But from store to store, the quality of cuts could greatly vary.

Joinery Questions

What screws should I use?
We recommend star-head self tapping screws for framing, most common sizes are 2-1/2", 1-3/4". Pre-drill if close to the edge or you find your wood is splitting.

Do I have to use pocket holes?
Pocket holes are the cheapest, easiest and fastest way to do some joints - like edge to edge or a hidden fastener joint. There are other methods, but these can be time consuming and expensive. We recommend using pocket holes as indicated in plans for best results.

How do I keep things square?
Use a speed square and measure diagonals after each step. Always clamp joints before screwing to keep them tight and flush.

Finishing Questions

Stain or paint before or after building?
A quick sand before and a full finish after gives the best results. Pre-finish if you're doing two-tone or detailed finishes.

What type of finish?
Use oil-based or water-based stain. For paint, cabinet-grade latex or enamel works great. High use surfaces on indoor projects should get a coat of polyurethane, I recommend a Helsman or Spar or other flexible poly that won't crack or peel with wood movement. For exterior projects, use a finish suitable for exterior fences.

How to get a smooth finish?
Start with a well sanded project. Sand between coats (220 grit), wipe clean, and apply light coats with a foam brush or roller.

Plan Questions

Can I change the size?
Many people do, and that's the great thing about building your own furniture! But do keep in mind going bigger might mean more supports are required, and often plans are optimized for minimal material waste.

Are these beginner-friendly?
Yes—plans are written with simple tools and clear steps in mind, with every effort to make plans as simple as possible.

Can I sell what I build?
Absolutely! Just don’t resell or repost the plans themselves.

General Questions

What tools do I really need?
A drill, circular saw, tape measure, square, and a few clamps will get you through most projects.

Do I need a workshop?
Nope! A driveway or small patio is plenty to get started, just make sure you have a level place to work. If you find you are building several projects a year, creating a small workbench is a great way to store tools and have a dedicated workspace.

What if I mess up?
Wood filler, sanding, or flipping boards goes a long way. Mistakes are part of the process!

What can I do to make my projects look more professional?
Start with straight boards, make accurate cuts, clamp all joints, and line up everything neatly. Sand thoroughly, use a neutral finish, and apply it in light coats for a clean look.

I've never built anything before. Where should I start?
Start with a few smaller softwood projects to get hands-on experience. Or if you're tackling a big project, buy a little extra lumber and practice your cuts and joints first. If possible, work with someone who has a bit of experience.

Care & Maintenance

How long will my furniture last?
With good joinery and regular care, your DIY furniture can last for decades. I have pieces in my own home that are over 20 years old and still going strong! One of the best parts about DIY furniture is that it’s easy to repaint, refinish, or repair—so your projects can grow and adapt with you.

How should I care for outdoor furniture?
Lightly pressure wash or hose it down once or twice a year. Tighten screws and reapply finish as needed to protect it—just like a deck or fence. A little upkeep goes a long way in extending the life of your furniture.

How about indoor furniture?
Regularly dust or wipe with a damp cloth. If it starts to look worn, a light sanding and touch-up paint or stain can refresh it in no time. DIY pieces are meant to be durable and fixable—so don’t be afraid to give them some love now and then.

Want to Build with Confidence?

Check out my ebook: 12 Skills to Build Your Own Furniture
It walks you through the core skills every builder needs—measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing—so you can build beautiful furniture that lasts.

Still Have Questions?

Email us anytime at [email protected] and we’ll be happy to help!