This beautiful farmhouse bed can be made for just a fraction of the cost to buy - all from standard, off the shelf lumber! You won't need a pocket hole jig or any special tools to build.
This bed has been built thousands of times and is a reader favorite. You can also find the twin version, king version, and all our farmhouse bed plans here.

Preparation
12 - 2x4 8 feet long
2 - 2x6 8 feet long
2 - 1x10 8 feet long
2 - 4x4 8 feet long
1 - 2x2 8 feet long
6 - 1x6 8 feet long
4 - 1x4 8 feet long
100 - 1-1/4" long brad nails
75 - 2-1/2" long self tapping wood screws
HEADBOARD CUT LIST
2 - 4x4 @ 54"
2 - 2x2 @ 30"
11 - 1x6 @ 30"
2 - 1x4 @ about 60-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
1 - 2x4@ 67-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
1 - 2x6 @ 69-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
FOOTBOARD CUT LIST
2 - 4x4 @ 21"
2 - 2x2 @ 8"
2 - 2x2 @ 3"
11 - 1x6 @ 15"
2 - 1x4 @ about 60-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
1 - 2x4@ 67-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
1 - 2x6 @ 69-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
MATTRESS SUPPORT FRAME/SIDERAILS
3 - 2x4 @ 83-1/2"
1 - 2x4 @ 60-1/2"
2 - 2x4 @ 12-1/2"
2 - 1x10 @ 80"
20 - 2x4 @ 32" - can be as short as 30" if you need to burn up scraps
Cut all boards except as noted to measure and cut. We recommend using a compound miter saw for the straightest cuts, but you can also use a circular saw and a carpenter's square - just make sure your cut ends are nice and straight.
Instructions
Step 1
Step 2
Layout the 30" 1x6 boards flat, side by side. Measure the overall width of all the 1x6 boards. Cut two 1x4s to this measurement.
Nail the 1x6 boards with glue to the 1x4s. Apply glue between the 1x6 boards as you go.
Make sure the panel is built square by measuring opposite diagonals (outside top corner of 1x4 to outside bottom corner of opposite 1x4) and adjusting so the opposite diagonals match.
Comments
natalie&morgan (not verified)
Mon, 05/02/2011 - 18:48
BIG problem..
hi ! we're making this bed for our daughter, in the full size version, and cannot find 4 1/2" screws ANYWHERE ! all our lumber and all the other supplies are bought already, we even bought an air compressor and a realllly expensive nail gun for this project.. dont know what to do now that we cant find nails that size.. please help !
natalie&morgan (not verified)
Mon, 05/02/2011 - 19:09
oh.. and i dont have a ace or
oh.. and i dont have a ace or true value.. im in grande prairie alberta canada..
aria_dia
Wed, 05/11/2011 - 02:36
are the plans fixed or still broken?
has the plans for the bed been fixed about the discrepancy on the 1x8's not fitting and the mattress not fitting correctly or are they still incorrect?
Also to chime in with the crowd... could I just screw in my metal frame or would that ruin the bed or show through?
mindymom79
Wed, 05/11/2011 - 06:29
The headboard and footboard are fine.
Just make the frame (joists) a little wider and the rails a little shorter, so you can attach to the front of the 4x4's, instead of the inner sides. It's just as easy. or if you haven't started, go ahead and extend the headboard. I admit I made the king, not the queen, but I found some great brackets from Rokler, that I'm going to attach to the front, not the sides, so it's easy to collapse to move.
Guest (not verified)
Tue, 05/24/2011 - 18:58
Beautiful!
Ana -
I've been rummaging through my old barn and have discovered a treasury of old wood! I was wondering, for the sideboards, can I use 1x10s or does it need to be a 2x10?
Thanks,
Ashley
Ralph S (not verified)
Sat, 05/28/2011 - 19:33
Sideboards
1*10s might be a bit thin if actually using to support the mattress\boxspring but if just decorative I don't see why they would not work.
R
Ralph S (not verified)
Sat, 05/28/2011 - 19:31
Great Project!
I have just started this project in Queen size. Being an apartment dweller with lots of restrictions on what we can do, I went over to a friends to do the cutting of the lumber. While visiting both the Orange Box and Blue Box building supply stores I was a bit surprised to find that 8" boards measured in at 7 1/4". So I have to go back and pick up some 1/4 inch filler. I am thinking Dowels or something similar to give a bit of a beaded look between the boards. Just need to get the Side Boards and Hangers before I have everything to complete it. Keep up the great site!
Mark (not verified)
Mon, 06/20/2011 - 20:19
Pressure treat 4x4's
Hey everyone, I'm in the process of building this bed, cost me just $300.00 (I live in Canada so prices on lumber may differ substantially). I just wanted to mention to all who are considering building this bed that YOU DO NOT USE PRESSURE TREATED 4X4 as the chemicals used in pressure treating can be very harmful and nasty (even if you get a sliver you can get a bad infection). They use arsnic and other harmful substances so I just thought I would put that out there. You can get untreated 4x4's...just ask for them at your lumber store!
Tim and Amy
Wed, 08/03/2011 - 06:39
Stained pine finishing
Hi Ana,
We LOVE your blog. We just started building, and I've even got my mother hooked with plans of things to build! We started making the farmhouse queen this weekend and are staining it a dark walnut colour using minwax. It looks great, but there is no sheen at all and I'd like a more 'finished' look. I'm hesitant to use polyurethane due to the toxins, and am considerin watco teak oil. What is your experience with finishing stained pine products? Are there any alternatives that you can recommend that would be less toxic but still seal and give a bit of a shine?
Thanks,
Amy
yogashell
Tue, 09/27/2011 - 12:03
Less toxic sealant
Hi Amy,
We have used AFM Safecoat sealant on other wood projects and also plan to use it on the bed. It leaves a slightly shiny surface and seems to protect well although we just recently tried it. I would recommend giving that a try, they have a good reputation for being low toxicity and environmentally responsible.
shelli