This beautiful farmhouse bed can be made for just a fraction of the cost to buy - all from standard, off the shelf lumber! You won't need a pocket hole jig or any special tools to build.
This bed has been built thousands of times and is a reader favorite. You can also find the twin version, king version, and all our farmhouse bed plans here.
Having a beautiful bed can transform any bedroom. It's the most important piece in your bedroom, but can also be the most expensive.
Over a decade ago, I built my first farmhouse bed (pictured above). We still use it today, it's still as strong and sturdy and beautiful as ever. And it only cost about $120 to build then - thousands less than buying!
Farmhouse Bed Plans
We updated the original farmhouse bed plans to use less tools, less materials, but be just as beautiful! You won't need a pocket hole jig - just a drill, nailer and a saw, to tackle this project.
The plans are below. Please let us know in the comments or add a brag post on how your farmhouse bed turned out. Thank you for using our plans.
NOTE: This bed plan has been updated and improved. If you need the original plans, we have created a printable PDF for your convenience.
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Preparation
12 - 2x4 8 feet long
2 - 2x6 8 feet long
2 - 1x10 8 feet long
2 - 4x4 8 feet long
1 - 2x2 8 feet long
6 - 1x6 8 feet long
4 - 1x4 8 feet long
100 - 1-1/4" long brad nails
75 - 2-1/2" long self tapping wood screws
HEADBOARD CUT LIST
2 - 4x4 @ 54"
2 - 2x2 @ 30"
11 - 1x6 @ 30"
2 - 1x4 @ about 60-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
1 - 2x4@ 67-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
1 - 2x6 @ 69-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
FOOTBOARD CUT LIST
2 - 4x4 @ 21"
2 - 2x2 @ 8"
2 - 2x2 @ 3"
11 - 1x6 @ 15"
2 - 1x4 @ about 60-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
1 - 2x4@ 67-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
1 - 2x6 @ 69-1/2" - measure and cut to fit
MATTRESS SUPPORT FRAME/SIDERAILS
3 - 2x4 @ 83-1/2"
1 - 2x4 @ 60-1/2"
2 - 2x4 @ 12-1/2"
2 - 1x10 @ 80"
20 - 2x4 @ 32" - can be as short as 30" if you need to burn up scraps
Cut all boards except as noted to measure and cut. We recommend using a compound miter saw for the straightest cuts, but you can also use a circular saw and a carpenter's square - just make sure your cut ends are nice and straight.
Instructions
Step 1
Attach the longest 2x2s to the longest 4x4s, flush to the back edge with 2-1/2" self tapping screws.
Step 2
Layout the 30" 1x6 boards flat, side by side. Measure the overall width of all the 1x6 boards. Cut two 1x4s to this measurement.
Nail the 1x6 boards with glue to the 1x4s. Apply glue between the 1x6 boards as you go.
Make sure the panel is built square by measuring opposite diagonals (outside top corner of 1x4 to outside bottom corner of opposite 1x4) and adjusting so the opposite diagonals match.
Step 3
Attach the headboard panel to the 2x2s on the legs with 2-1/2" screws. Only screw to the headboard panel at the top and bottom portion backed by the 1x4s.
Also attach the panel from the front 1x6s to the 2x2s with 1-1/4" brad nails.
Step 4
Measure and cut the 2x4 for the top. Attach with 2-1/2" screws.
Step 5
Repeat steps for the 2x6 top, leaving a 1" overhang on all four sides.
This completes the headboard build.
Step 6
The footboard is constructed exactly as the headboard, with the exception of the 2x2 cleats and the overall height.
Attach the 2x2 cleats with 2-1/2" screws. The smaller cleat may split on you since the wood piece is so small. You can predrill holes to help prevent wood from splitting.
Step 7
Build the panel and attach to the 2x2 cleats.
Step 8
Attach top 2x4 and 2x6 to the footboard with 2-1/2" screws.
Step 9
Attach the 2x4 cleat to the footboard, set in the 2x2 cleats, resting on the bottom cleat. Use 2-1/2" screws to attach the 2x4 to the 4x4 legs.
Mark the headboard legs as shown in the diagram, and attach 2x4 cleat to the 4x4 legs with 2-1/2" screws.
Step 10
Use 2-1/2" screws to attach the headboard support between the cleats.
Step 11
Center legs add a ton of support and strength to the bed.
First attach the shorter 2x4 "legs" to the center 2x4. Then place the center 2x4 in place inside the bed, and attach to the footboard and the headboard 2x4.
Step 12
Measure and cut to fit the 1x10 siderails.
Attach with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.
NOTE: If you find your 1x10s need to be attached at the top, you can buy small L brackets and use to attach
Step 13
Cut the wood slats from remaining 2x4s and set inside the bed with about a 1/2" gap in between each slat. You only need one screw on the siderail cleat to attach - but you can also add screws to the center support.
Comments
natalie&morgan (not verified)
Mon, 05/02/2011 - 18:48
BIG problem..
hi ! we're making this bed for our daughter, in the full size version, and cannot find 4 1/2" screws ANYWHERE ! all our lumber and all the other supplies are bought already, we even bought an air compressor and a realllly expensive nail gun for this project.. dont know what to do now that we cant find nails that size.. please help !
natalie&morgan (not verified)
Mon, 05/02/2011 - 19:09
oh.. and i dont have a ace or
oh.. and i dont have a ace or true value.. im in grande prairie alberta canada..
aria_dia
Wed, 05/11/2011 - 02:36
are the plans fixed or still broken?
has the plans for the bed been fixed about the discrepancy on the 1x8's not fitting and the mattress not fitting correctly or are they still incorrect?
Also to chime in with the crowd... could I just screw in my metal frame or would that ruin the bed or show through?
mindymom79
Wed, 05/11/2011 - 06:29
The headboard and footboard are fine.
Just make the frame (joists) a little wider and the rails a little shorter, so you can attach to the front of the 4x4's, instead of the inner sides. It's just as easy. or if you haven't started, go ahead and extend the headboard. I admit I made the king, not the queen, but I found some great brackets from Rokler, that I'm going to attach to the front, not the sides, so it's easy to collapse to move.
Guest (not verified)
Tue, 05/24/2011 - 18:58
Beautiful!
Ana -
I've been rummaging through my old barn and have discovered a treasury of old wood! I was wondering, for the sideboards, can I use 1x10s or does it need to be a 2x10?
Thanks,
Ashley
Ralph S (not verified)
Sat, 05/28/2011 - 19:33
Sideboards
1*10s might be a bit thin if actually using to support the mattress\boxspring but if just decorative I don't see why they would not work.
R
Ralph S (not verified)
Sat, 05/28/2011 - 19:31
Great Project!
I have just started this project in Queen size. Being an apartment dweller with lots of restrictions on what we can do, I went over to a friends to do the cutting of the lumber. While visiting both the Orange Box and Blue Box building supply stores I was a bit surprised to find that 8" boards measured in at 7 1/4". So I have to go back and pick up some 1/4 inch filler. I am thinking Dowels or something similar to give a bit of a beaded look between the boards. Just need to get the Side Boards and Hangers before I have everything to complete it. Keep up the great site!
Mark (not verified)
Mon, 06/20/2011 - 20:19
Pressure treat 4x4's
Hey everyone, I'm in the process of building this bed, cost me just $300.00 (I live in Canada so prices on lumber may differ substantially). I just wanted to mention to all who are considering building this bed that YOU DO NOT USE PRESSURE TREATED 4X4 as the chemicals used in pressure treating can be very harmful and nasty (even if you get a sliver you can get a bad infection). They use arsnic and other harmful substances so I just thought I would put that out there. You can get untreated 4x4's...just ask for them at your lumber store!
Tim and Amy
Wed, 08/03/2011 - 06:39
Stained pine finishing
Hi Ana,
We LOVE your blog. We just started building, and I've even got my mother hooked with plans of things to build! We started making the farmhouse queen this weekend and are staining it a dark walnut colour using minwax. It looks great, but there is no sheen at all and I'd like a more 'finished' look. I'm hesitant to use polyurethane due to the toxins, and am considerin watco teak oil. What is your experience with finishing stained pine products? Are there any alternatives that you can recommend that would be less toxic but still seal and give a bit of a shine?
Thanks,
Amy
yogashell
Tue, 09/27/2011 - 12:03
Less toxic sealant
Hi Amy,
We have used AFM Safecoat sealant on other wood projects and also plan to use it on the bed. It leaves a slightly shiny surface and seems to protect well although we just recently tried it. I would recommend giving that a try, they have a good reputation for being low toxicity and environmentally responsible.
shelli