Farmhouse Side Table -First Class Project
Modern farmhouse side table. I chose this as my first project for woodworking class!
Mary Healy
Modern farmhouse side table. I chose this as my first project for woodworking class!
Mary Healy
Followed your plan but added extra 1 x 2 trim to the sides, feet made from 1 × 3 and 1x 3 trim around the top
Platform (Pedestal) with Drawers for front-loader Washer & Dryer. Cheaper than buying the manufacturer's plastic pedestals and more fun to build anyway! The drawers are also much wider and deeper than the manufacturer's pedestals. We can usually fit about 3 full loads of laundry in each drawer. (That's 6 loads of laundry before we have to start folding!) It's a very easy and basic DIY project. I made a 2nd one for my brother using these plans (sans the drawers). I gotta say, the drawers are SO nice to have though. But you could just leave the front open, without drawers, and slide some laundry baskets underneath for an even quicker project. We've been using this platform now for over 2 years and there is still no squeaking or rattling. The washer & dryer haven't moved from the vibration even in the slightest. They're exactly where I placed them on the pedestal 2 years ago. There's also zero problem with the weight of the washer either...it really is a strong frame. (After finishing, I jumped up and down on it!) A couple small tweaks I would make doing it over is raising the drawers a 1/2" in. off the floor to tuck a rug underneath (as is, they sit about 1/8" in. off the floor). Also, I would cut out a couple of square holes in the back panel to access those socks that fall behind (I can't access the sides of my W&D in our particular laundry room). Lastly, I would have painted with a quality paint (I just used a few cans of white spray paint to be quicker). Step-by-Step Plans and Materials List (PDF) and many more photos found at the Blog Link below...I'm certainly no professional "Plans Writer" so email if you have questions! Happy DIY-ing! Estimated Cost: ~$200 (2x6 lumber, plywood, drawer trim, nails, screws, paint)
Wed, 03/13/2013 - 10:12
I have wanted to do the pedestal project for quite a while. I am so glad I held off though. Yours are fantastic! I would never have thought of drawers to hide the dirty laundry! Love it!
Fri, 02/07/2014 - 17:05
Hello this looks great and for the amateur carpenter I am but one item I need clarified "the top measurement at 64" is .25" greater than the bottom at 63.75"
Please explain if I am missing something
Thanks
Mon, 02/10/2014 - 15:33
Not sure what measurement you mean that's 63.75" since there's no "bottom" to the pedestals. Or do you mean 1/4" wider than the sides? The top panel should overhang both sides by 1/4" each so that when the side plywood is attached, it will be flush. Hopefully that helps? (If I'm understanding the question correctly)
Mon, 02/24/2014 - 10:29
Could leave the back panel of plywood out so you could reach what may fall behind? Then you would just have to pull the drawers out?
Thu, 12/03/2015 - 06:11
Did you ever find out if you can leave off the back panel?
Wed, 06/22/2016 - 16:35
Back panel is very very structural and provides lot of strength. If i wanted more access than the 5-7 inch of duct space behind the pedestal gives me, then i would replace the back panel with a long 2x6, that holds the three legs from going in different directions due to all that weight.
Mon, 12/12/2016 - 14:58
This is the one modification I could make if i could redo these plans...I would still put on the back panel of plywood as it stabilizes the pedestal, I would just have cut out a rectangle (behind each drawer) so that I could remove the drawers and stick my hand/arm through to grab fallen clothes or vacuum the lint.
Mon, 12/18/2017 - 19:17
Rather than cut holes in the back, I just cut the back and side boards a little small and left a gap around the bottom the whole way around. That way I can get a vaccuum hose in there or reach through and get lost items. Because my washer and dryer seem to be deeper than yours (I needed at least 33" depth, so I went with 3'), that also worked out well in getting the most out of the boards. I could do the top, back, and sides out of one single sheet of good 3/4" plywood just leaving those small gaps at the bottom for clean-up and retreival.
Fri, 11/20/2015 - 05:23
Hello,
I downloaded the pdf but have exactly the same information that the website html, where can I find a solution step by step guide?
Thank you for all the interesting posts.
Mon, 12/12/2016 - 14:55
The original step-by-step plans are found on Ana-White:
http://www.ana-white.com/2011/01/sausha%E2%80%99s-washerdryer-pedestals
My second build from Ana's toy box plan. I had my son use his CNC machine to carve boy's name into the front. Depth of the letters is about 0.25". Looks really good.
Used sturdy workbench plans with 2x6 cedar top for outdoor sink. Turned out much better than I expected!!
Tue, 05/02/2023 - 07:09
Way to go, it is beautiful and functional! Thanks for sharing.
By far my favorite project! It was challenging combining two sets of plans, changing dimensions, and learning new skills all at the same time yet so, so, rewarding.
I loved the look of the Mini Farmhouse Bedside Tables but wanted to create a bookshelf as well so, I used the planks idea from the Planked Wood Bedside table plans to create solid sides, and a plywood backing for support and to hide lamp and phone cables.
I have a very low bed, so I shortened the height and made the top proportionate in size.
I used 1x6s for the top, 1x4s for the bottom shelf, 1x3s and a 1x2 for the side panels, 1x4s for the drawer, and 1x2s for the trim and a piece of 1/4" plywood for the backing.
I found that the drawer fell out when you pulled it too far so I added piece of wood between the drawer and the top to keep it from dropping as you pulled it out.
visit us at www.madeatthisplace.blogspot.com, for details. We built a large platform off the ground and just put a house on top. Then gradually extended the design.
Wed, 05/23/2012 - 05:50
This is so bad ass!! One of my favorite memories of my own childhood was a huge cardboard box play house that my dad made. It has 3 or 4 rooms, I loved it. This takes it to a whole new level! Fantastic!!
Wed, 05/23/2012 - 15:12
...
^^^ There are no words up there because I am speechless. This is the coolest FORTRESS I've ever seen.
When are you installing the moat??
Sat, 06/23/2012 - 07:46
Thanks guys, I'm lucky I have a husband who doesn't roll his eyes when I say, how about....... He loves building and so do I.
I had so nuch fun making this table. I love how it turned it out.
Mrs. Lasley
We were looking for outdoor furniture for our deck, and for the size and amount we needed it would have cost us at least $2000. We really like the idea of having an outdoor sectional that we can also use for dining, and we had trouble finding a set we liked. We found Ana's plans for the 2x4 Outdoor Sectional, and i loved the look. After seeing what others have done with the plans, I thought I would be able to modify it to get everything we needed for much less cost than buying a set.
We ended up extending the size of the 2x4 outdoor sofa by one 24" section, for a total length of 96". I then used the same design to make two outdoor chairs, just reduced the length to 24". I modified the 2x4 outdoor coffee table plans to create two ottoman's that can be moved around to make the seating more lounge style Finally, I modified the coffee table plans to make a 5 foot outdoor dining table. All in all, it took about a week and I couldn't be happier with how it turned out!
Mon, 08/02/2021 - 09:44
Looks amazing! What method did you use (pocket holes, dowels, deck screws, etc) to join the visible portions like the arms?
Basically I took Ana's plan and tweaked it to create a diy sofa, a love seat, and a corner piece to make a sectional. All 3 pieces have the same basic design and function (they all have a storage compartment), although the corner piece, because of its placement and the thickness of the seating cushions, doesn't open unless the couch is opened first. We purchased custom cut, 6" thick foam cushions for the seats (we bought the XL-38 foam from https://www.buyfoam.com/, but if we had to do it again, we'd go with the XL-28 as the 38 is VERY firm). We also used upholstery fabric instead of a paint drop-cloth to cover the couches. The foam and upholstery fabric upped the overall cost significantly. Other changes from Ana's plan, I used 15/32" OSB because the 1/4" plywood just felt too flimsy (I'm a large guy). I also added I bolts to the underside of the seat before the foam and upholstery so I could add a stress relief rope to prevent the kids from opening the top and dropping it and ripping out the hinges. I used piano hinges as they seemed to me to provide the most support. Finally, I ended up using 1x2s for the base trim since I couldn't find any 2x2s that were straight and finish-ready, then I added router detailing to provide some visual interest. I used 3" pieces of 4x6 for the feet and added matching router detail. Additionally, I used T-Nuts and bolts to make the feet and base trim completely removable.
Mon, 08/17/2020 - 07:46
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Sofa table
When I decided to build a woodshed I was freaked out because I've never done anything even remotely like this. I struggle with precision and patience, which made this project seem overwhelming as I knew I had to do a lot of prep work to properly level the ground, measure the wood, learn how to operate a saw, calculate angles to cut, etc... I did a lot of research online and found this simple blueprint a great starting point. I made some adjustments since i needed a much bigger shed, it's 11.5' x 7' x 7'. Also, I already had the wood resting on pallets so I just build this shed around the wood with no built in floor. Overall, I'm thrilled with how it turned out!
With Christmas approaching and the realization that my three young boys had way too much “stuff”, I enrolled the help of my dad to build this amazing basement play area. When I found Ana’s plans for the play gym with monkey bars, I knew we were in business. I modified the design to fit our space and we were off. Such a fun build and my boys absolutely love spending time down there. Thanks so much for your continued inspiration and the confidence you give us mamas to build with the big boys, Ana!!
In reply to Fabulous! by Ana White Admin
Fri, 01/08/2021 - 16:23
Thank you so much!! 🙏
I built this outdoor play area for my kids this past summer. The area under that portion of the deck was always messy and muddy and so I wanted to make use of it. I built the deck and anchored it with lag bolts to the deck supports. On the one side I used rubber mulch and on the other there is play sand. I dug holes in various locations and filled with gravel to allow for drainage under the sand and mulch. For the awning I used plain cedar shingles. I added a shower that is just regular 1/2" metal pipe with a hose adaptor. The shower wall and fence are just old pallets that I had for a while, cut to size, which was pretty much random but they came out great. I added a misting system under the awning that works great, the kids love the cool mist on the hot days. Overall, a heavy job ripping up the grass, moving the wood, gravel, stones, sand and mulch, but a fun deck build and even better experience doing this with my kids by my side!
Tue, 01/13/2015 - 09:37
What an amazing use for a weird outdoor space ! You are genius !
Wed, 01/14/2015 - 06:21
I love it! I'm now trying to convince my husband to let me add a slide to the deck. Who wouldn't love that?!
I designed (in Sketchup) and built some bunk beds for my boys. They're made out of all common sized lumber, SUPER sturdy, and have no exposed nails or screws! The kids LOVE them and I'm really happy with how they turned out!
This portion of the build is just for 2 bunks, but the design allows for a third, lofted bunk to be added (I'll build that next year)
I've got the full step-by-step build at
http://www.iliketomakestuff.com/iltms-project-bunk-beds-part-1/
http://www.iliketomakestuff.com/iltms-project-bunk-beds-part-2/
Just finished this beauty, entirely made with 2x4, plans were modify to match our outdoor sofa and coffee table. I think our best looking project so far ;) Thank you for inspiring me to build !!!
In reply to Very nice! by Ana White Admin
Tue, 03/01/2016 - 18:13
Little by little I am transforming my ugly concrete patio with no view in Zen garden...
Tue, 03/01/2016 - 18:15
Little by little I am transforming my ugly concrete patio with no view in a Zen garden...
Tue, 03/01/2016 - 18:16
Little by little I am transforming my ugly concrete patio with no view in a Zen garden...
This was my first project building something from this site. I absolutely love it! We didnt add the X's because the miter saw was at my dad's house, which I was kind of sad about, but I think it still looks good. Not too bad for mine and my husbands first build!
The Gíaffe Free Standing TV Mount. Handcrafted and engineered to use its center mass to deliver strength and balance for tv sizes 30-60". Display your television without detracting from your home's decor. The Gíaffe Free Standing TV Mount is the perfect solution and its rich finish will be perfect for any house/office room.
Wed, 03/11/2020 - 07:16
I absolutely love this!! Are there plans available?
Added kitchen and dining room storage by building bookcases / shelf units to fit under the peninsula breakfast bar overhang. It's the simplest possible "box with a toe-kick", loosely based on Ana's plans for a bookshelf and the closet master system.
Much of the "working time" was stain and finishing time. Actual cutting and assembly time was under 3 hours.
No dimensions: every breakfast bar is different.
1 - The boards were cut to fit under the overhang, with 1/8 or less clearance. Top and bottom of unit is between the upright pieces.
2 - Width of units was also cut to fit. One unit is the width of the lower section of countertop (appx 23 in), the taller section was divided into 2 equal units (appx 21 in)
Shelves were cut about 1/4" narrower than the insiude dimension of the unit, to allow for insertion and the shelf pegs.
3 - Toekick space cut to match the cabinet on the far side of the peninsula. Used a circular saw and then a hand saw to finish the corners.
4 - Drilled pocketholes in the top and bottom boards.
5 - Used Rockler's jig for drilling shelf pin holes in the 6 uprights. Oops! I should have drilled every possible hole. I drilled every other hole and don't have the shelf flexibility I really need.
6 - Stained and topcoated everything, let it dry.
7 - Assembled each shelf unit, using corner clamps and a carpenter's square to make sure it was square. The bottom shelf is screwed at the same level as the toe-kick.
8 - Slid units under the overhang, shimmed them firmly under the countertop.
9 - Added shelf pegs and shelves
DONE!
Doors could be added, using the hinges for inset doors on frameless cabinets.
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NOTES:
The units are backless. I considered nailing a 1/8 hardboard back onto them, but because the finished back of the peninsula is visible behind them, and they are shimmed into place to prevent slouching it was not needed.
Cost is low because we had some 1x12 boards in the attic. Already had the tools and stain from earlier projects. 3 1x12 x 6ft boards were new, the rest were salvage.
Ana your plans are amazing- here’s how mine turned out, I love it
Arlene