Community Brag Posts

Full over Full bunk beds. Adjusted for Full from a twin measurement. only 1" off floor for more head room.extra rail bar coverage upstairs for my daughter who rolls out of bed regularly.

This can be put together pretty quick. The finishing is what takes the longest. And I used the Kreg plugs to fill the pocket holes, which meant extra time for gluing and sanding, But they work nicely.

Argie bedside table painted teal and yellow. Lights attached to underside of shelves as well.

This was a big project to tackle. I'm not very good at modifying building plans, so my husband was frustrated during the beginning of this build. But we are very happy with the way it turned out.
The hardest part of the build was the steps. We modified them to look like blocks, so getting the dimensions equal was tough. We also made it a full size bed so that there was more room under the bed.
We used plexiglass for the doors and LED lighting under the bed.

Full Instructions HERE

What you will need to build this DIY Welcome Post:

1. 4 x4 Fence Post Cut: 30 inches long 1×6 down to make 2 5 1/2″x5 1/2″ squares and 2 4 1/2″x 4 1/2″ square.
2. Different Widths of wood cut into squares. For the three tear welcome post I have 3 different sized squares. They measure: SMALL: 5 1/2 by 5 1/2 inches MEDIUM: 7 1/2 by 7 1/2 inches LARGE: 9 1/2 by 9 1/2 inches.
3. Single Hook
4. Long wood screws & Drill
5. Stain
6. Rust-Oleum Varathane Outdoor Classic Clear Water Based Spray, Gloss Finish
7. Wood Glue
8. Orbital Sander or some muscle & some sand paper
9. Wood filler (not required)

Full instructions on how I put this together on my blog.

I made this hall tree as a gift for my wife. It's a classy way to store coats out in plain sight. it is larger than the design specs from Mimi (7'H by 4'1" W) and built-in instead of free standing. Our house has a boiler with floorboard radiators. There is a radiator inside the hutch, and heat comes out of the holes just behind the lid to the bench this heats up the coats as they hang on the rack. The radiator also heats the compartment under the bench which aids in drying damp boots and other items. Fun project, also an easy project thanks to the Kreg Jig!

Made a bit shorter to fit our decorative arch and opted for more different hardware.

I used the chicken shed plans to create the coop, with a modification to include two nesting boxes, one on each side.

I slightly modified the nesting boxes, using a U shaped frame and added hinges for the front to swing down and the pine shavings to be swept out.

For the siding, we found it easiest to do the tack and trace method. We tacked each full sheet of siding in place and traced the cuts for the window, roof line, doors, and nesting boxes. We then took them down, darkened the lines, cut 'em, and re-hung them. It made it a million times easier, IMHO.

For the inside, I designed several roosting bars with poop platforms. The water is a gravity fed chicken nipple/pvc setup, which I found online.

The food stations, also gravity fed, are (new) sewer pipes with wye connectors.

I used the roof and siding scraps to make shelves for storage inside.

By sourcing reclaimed materials, I built the coop, run, interior, feeding stations (5), and waterer for $550. I only bought 27 pieces of new lumber (15 2x4's and the 12 8 foot long 1x3's)

Even the paint was free! (We have a drop and swap at the haz mat recycling center run by the county. We have gotten 100's of dollars of free paint, stain, and varnish there. I even used a can of free spar varnish to seal the inside of the coop)

There are still a few pieces of trim to be cut and painted, but the girls are inside eating, drinking, and merry!

I did find that at the Home Depot, if you buy chicken wire, it costs way more then 150 feet x 36 inch "stucco netting". The stucco netting was $54 for 150 feet, and chicken wire is $76 for the same amount. It is the exact same wire.

I built the run out of resourced 1x2 furring strips. They were a pain to work with, very prone to breaking when not supported, but with the entire run costing $25 for wood and $54 (with half a roll left over) for chicken wire, I can handle some extra time and effort.

If anyone has any questions for me, feel free to contact me! I'd love to help!

I made a few changes. I added walls and a hinge to the table to allow for a cooler to fit inside. I also decided to paint mine. The was a fun project and I love how it turned out.

We had a very limited area for these to fit, so my hubby had to change the dimensions to fit these square baskets. We needed enough spots for our family of 10! I LOVE THEM, thanks; Ana!

I had an idea in my head of what I wanted for deck seating/lounging in my mind but just couldn't seem to get to the "nitty gritty" of creating workable plans. Then, while googling through images of double loungers I stumbled onto Ana's site. Wow! I felt like a fish that had just found the water! With the detailed plans generously provided for a double lounger I was able to create my "vision" with just slight modifications. The loungers are actually two chairs and two ottomans that fit together or come apart depending on how much "togetherness" the situation calls for. And best of all - almost all the materials were left overs and cut pieces from another deck and fencing project. For cushions (not in this photo) I used two inexpensive "Hide A Mats" folding beds from Costco that I covered with waterproof duck fabric. I can't thank you enough, Ana, for taking the time to share your talent so freely. I'm truly grateful. As is Jake, the Redbone Coonhound, who insisted on being in the photo!

I wanted to build a small shower bench. I used the Providence Bench Plans and just made it a bit smaller with a few adjustments. This bench is 35" long and 18" tall. I did not use the cross supports on the bottom because it was so short. Also, you will see that I turned the bottom stretcher and side supports flat/horizontal. I put the screws for the seat boards through the top down just because this was the easiest way for me to do it. The plans did not show in detail how to attach the seat boards from the underside. It just said "finally, the seat boards." I guess they probably used a pocket jig. I bought a pocket jig and used it in the couple of places, but this was my first time using it. I used brown, coated decking screws in the places I did not use the pocket screws. This was my first attempt at building anything and my first time to use a pocket jig. I used a natural wood stain and Behr Weather-Proofing since it will be in a wet area.