Outdoor Counterheight Farmhouse Table
I had so nuch fun making this table. I love how it turned it out.
Mrs. Lasley
I had so nuch fun making this table. I love how it turned it out.
Mrs. Lasley
This was one of my first projects. I just used a circular saw but a mitre saw would be better. I’ll look for one soon. It was rewarding, fun and we love how it looks on our back patio.
Despite how it looks, this chair was actually pretty cheap and easy to build. The one caveat is that it really needs to be built from hardwood. The minimalist design of this chair requires the strength of solid hardwood. I don't think pine would cut it.
I started by building my angled legs. My chair is nice and lounge-y. If you don't like the relaxed, lounger style, you may want a slightly more shallow angle to your back. The total length of the back is 33". I wanted the leg portion to be 4" tall, so I first cut 2, 33" lengths. Then, measured 4", and cut at a 10-degree angle. I inverted the 2 pieces, and attached them together with glue, pocket holes, and screws.
Once I had my angled legs, I put together my back frame, front frame, and finally joined them together with the armrests and side supports. I used wood glue and countersunk, 3" screws at each joint.
To create the sling, I took two, 52" leather belts, and strung 19" wide slats, 1" apart. I attached the slats to the leather using a pop rivet gun. For this size chair, I used 17, 1.5" wide slats to create the sling. I then attached the sling to the frame using carriage bolts and nuts.
I followed the plan exactly including the suggestion of the fence paint (2 coats). This was a very easy build. It took much longer to paint than it did to build. These boxes are the perfect accent on our new patio/firepit.
I modified the Farmhouse X Desk plan from Handmade Haven to add the shelving on both ends. I also have a Z on the end instead of the X as that was the way my husband preferred it (it is for him after all). The top is live edge wood which is tricky to work with since the thickness is different from board to board but I still like the way it turned out! The live edge top did add time to the build as well as staining and varnishing as opposed to painting the base.
Corner cabinet project based on Ana's plans and adjusted to my own decor and measurements.
This is my more traditional take on the modern craft table (I guess that means it isn't technically "modern"!). We call it the "Lego Table" at our house. I doubled up the ends like others have so that my two daughters can have their own sides. My wife asked that the there be backs on the side shelves so that items aren't pushed off. I also added trim around the tabletop and molding to give it a bit more traditional appearance. Finally, I made the shelves adjustable.
I created these 16" cedar patio planters using Ana's plans. I bought four 6' cedar pickets from Lowe's for $1.98 each or under $8 for the lot. I used the extra picket to cut our my 1x2s and 1x3s so the whole construction is made of cedar including the pieces to hold a potted plant. I used Behr's clear and cedar finish to complete the job in under 1 hour. Thanks Ana for the motivation.
Fri, 03/05/2021 - 11:10
Looks great and doesn't break the bank! Thanks for sharing:)
I hope this is OK to add here. It's not an Ana White plan, so moderator please delete if it is not allowed. I made this bed for my grandson. I bought a plan online and modified it from a twin to a full size bed. The dome light and running lights work as night lights. A motion sensor light activates if he crosses the door to illuminate the ladder. Front tire is made as a step so his parents can climb in and read to him. The whole thing is on EZ Sliders so they can move it away from the wall to make the bed.
Mon, 07/05/2021 - 21:59
Wonderful job, thank you for sharing! The details are spot on:)
I built this outhouse to go with a dry cabin I'm working on, and also as an emergency backup for my house. I used treated lumber on the base/deck and splurged on T-111 for the siding. I wanted to use greenhouse polycarbonate for the roof, but found a piece of metal roofing in my shed that was exactly the right size so I used that instead. I thought about doing a fancy cutout on the door but ended up going with a half moon because it was easy. I'm thinking about cutting out stars of different sizes all over the rest of the door to let in more light. I'll trim and stain it next summer.
I've been looking for a simple design for a consol table that I could easily modify to fit in my kids' club house. This one fit the bill perfectly! I also happen to have a pile of 2x4s left over from a closet demo, so I wanted to use those up. I basically built 2 of the consol tables, letting the 2 outer-most horizontal beams extend across and 25.5 inch space and connect the two consols. Then I put in a middle beam and that created the perfect space to set some catering pans in it. Also, I only had 2x4s so I used those for all the pieces, making the gaps a little wider than the original design. And lastly, because I didn't quite have enough wood, I shortened the vertical beams. If you look at the picture, all of this will make more sense! Thanks for the inspiration and direction! ps - I have no idea how to rotate the photos. Sorry!
I really wanted to build something for our first home so 3 months after moving in (and 7-8 months pregnant) I started on our dining table. To fit our dining room, the measurements were modified to have a 7ft-table, with the bench just long enough to slide all the way under the table. The legs are made of 4x4s of Douglas Fir and everything else is pine. I also removed the stretchers underneath because I wanted to be able to have chairs on the ends. The table seats 8 people very comfortably. It took me a little longer than anticipated, since I couldn't do any of the lifting until my husband came home, and he stained it with 2 coats of Rustoleum Weathered Grey stain and 2 coats of poly (with my light sanding in between each coat).
I started with the basic plans and dimensions, then made it my own from there. I added a center shelf, used regular (cheap) hinges and a removable brace instead of the shelf brackets, with stop blocks on the brace cleats to help easily center them. Added 2x4s on the sides to mount the hinges and let the wings fall flush, 2x4s on the bottom to mount 4” casters, 1/4” plywood backing, and 1x3 trim on the front for aesthetics and as a lip to hold items in place. The backing completely covers the lower shelf, and I left a gap to run cables through in the upper shelf backing. Velcro strips on the back hold the wing braces when they’re not in use. Even though it’s plywood, I sanded everything thoroughly to reduce splinters and snags.
Sat, 02/03/2018 - 08:22
Hi there. I’m planning to use Ana White’s plan to build this miter saw cart but I like some of your alterations like with adding the 2x4s to allow the leaves to fall flush and the 2x4s at the bottom to attach the casters. How did you attach the casters? I have ones similar to yours- plate casters with 4 holes. Did you use bolts or screws?
Wed, 02/21/2018 - 20:50
I used large pan head wood screws for the casters, I think 1.5”.
Entire wall fireplace built-in!
So I've always wanted to build a Murphy bed. And by always I mean since I first came across plans here that made it look so simple. It ended up taking me a while to do because my job has me working 6 days a week so I was only able to work on it for short chunks of time.
I ended up utilizing a few different plans and mashed them together to build a full size murphy bed. The shelves are the support legs when the bed is down. The "hinge" mechanism are heavy duty 360 degree seat swivels.
All-in-all it turned out WAY better than I expected with only some minor issues throughout the construction process.
Next up is a twin xl Murphy bed with a murphy desk attachment that will serve as a craft table when up.
Completed the corner bookshelf (we opted to not use cupboard doors on the bottom) in two afternoons.
Beth and Jess Wegz
This was a Baby Gift for my sister and her little boy, Xander who was born just a couple weeks ago. I wanted to do something special that would last for my sweet nephew. She found a bookshelf similar to this on cool-rooms.com and we decided to try to make our own version. I've posted about it on my blog if you're interested in the process.
Sun, 03/18/2012 - 16:03
The best 'plans' I could come up for this are described here on my blog post for this... not too specific, but hopefully gives you a good idea of the process: http://alabahamians.blogspot.com/2012/03/dr-seuss-bookshelf-for-sweet-b…
Thanks for the sweet comments!!!
Mon, 01/22/2018 - 17:52
I would love to see the instructions you have in your blog, but it says you must be invited to see the blog. May I have access? Thanks! Brooke
Mon, 01/22/2018 - 17:52
I would love to see the instructions you have in your blog, but it says you must be invited to see the blog. May I have access? Thanks! Brooke
Sun, 03/18/2012 - 19:22
Clever cute creative. Cant stop looking at it. I love it. Thank you so much for posting.
Sun, 03/18/2012 - 19:52
Thank you so much for posting .You did a beautiful job. Your a good sister and a Terrific aunt.
Sun, 03/18/2012 - 22:16
WOW!!!!!! Wow wow wow wow!!! This is just beyond cool.
Sun, 03/18/2012 - 23:30
I love how you have taken a typical shelf and gave it a spark that is SO ONE of a KIND! WOW! This gives me ideas! There is just not enough time in the day thought.
Thank you for sharing your Awesome creativity. Your Family is SO lucky to have someone as talented as you! Keep up the good JOB!!!
Again AMAZING!!!
Best Christmas present according to my 4-year-old twins :) I combined ideas from Jen Woodhouse's "cabin bed" and "loft cabin bed" after seeing another brag post from someone who had turned it into a bunk bed. I added a separate platform for the lower mattress for uniformity and to provide some air circulation for the mattress. I also opted for a 2x6 as the bottom weight-bearing beam because I wanted to be able to add an extra couple pocket screws since this mama likes to play in the top bunk too! My girls took turns sleeping in the top/bottom for the first 2 nights, and have been camping out together in the top bunk ever since... and my husband and I are finally getting to sleep in on the weekends because they never want to come out of their room!
**Side note -- I'm not sure how my pictures got flipped but I have no idea how to fix it!
Wed, 01/08/2020 - 06:09
This is exactly what I am looking for. How tall is it? Can you post plans of how you modified it?
Fri, 10/02/2020 - 09:33
I am SO sorry but I haven't been on here since I posted the bunkbeds (almost 9 months ago!) I had written out all of my modified measurements on the Jen Woodhouse plans but have since lost it somewhere in my garage :( Here is what I can tell you at the moment: short side of "front" & "back" panels = 77.25" ; I kept the angles on the sides/roof the same, so the highest point of roof = 89" (I have short 8' ceilings so this leaves ~7" space up top). I used what I believe were 5" tongue & groove flooring panels instead of plywood for all sides, framed by 2x4s and 2x6 underneath for a little extra support. The height from the bottom of the top bunk to the floor is 38", and I added a 2x6 piece between the bottom legs of the 2 side pieces, flush with the outside edge. I built a rectangular frame for the bottom mattress using 2x6" on the long sides and 2x4 on the short sides -- the 2x4s are raised off the floor in order to allow for air circulation under the mattress and act as the end slats (they're flush on top with the rest of the slats, which I used 2x4s instead of the 1x in the plans)... instead of the 2x2 supports for the mattresses I used some scrap 2x3s from my kids old toddler beds which I had also built but tried to recycle as much of the wood as I could for this project, plus the 2x6 gave me a little more wiggle room -- if you use 2x4 you won't have space for 2x3 supports. The front "door" opening is 22.75", which I based on my size and me being able to get in and out easily (as mentioned above, I like to camp out with my kids sometimes!). The window openings are 12" w x 13.5" h, but the height is measured after I made a 1x3" window ledge which is flush with the inside of the wall; the rest of the windows are framed with 1x2s and 1x3s.
The full width of the side panels is 38" and the front/back are 78.5" -- I based these on the mattresses which I had already bought (Novaform twin from Costco -- since they're memory foam they're a little easier to "squeeze" in the top bunk than I would imagine a regular mattress would be).
I think that covers everything, sorry again about replying so late!
Fri, 10/02/2020 - 09:42
2 more things:
The bottom "frame" was meant to be removable for easy assembly/disassembly as my family moves a lot! That is why I used the inner 2x4s to hold the long side rails together, and the short-side 2x6s which are attached to the side frames are merely fore the illusion that it's all one piece. I did place a couple 2.5" screws through the inside of the 2x4s right into the legs of the upper bunk to make sure it stays in place.
When building the front panels with the windows, I decided on door opening first, then window opening (based on the size of the tongue & groove flooring), then calculated the width of all the pieces to create the window opening. I used pocked holes to connect the tongue & groove flooring to the "frame" created by the 2x4 pieces, and TONS of wood glue in between the boards. Adding the window frames with glue & nails helped provide a little more stability to the windows, although once the glue was dry there was zero movement around the window but I never know with my extremely-destructive twins! Now they're able to climb all over the bunk using the window ledge for support and it's no problem.
Sorry the the photos were taken from my phone so the lighting is making it look darker than it really is.
Basically I followed the plans to a T other than the poplar trim and crown molding.
For the head board I Used 3/4" red birch ply and made some stiles with excess from the sheet and then just trimmed it with poplar molding. instead of stacking 2 2x4 for the sides i just used a solid 4x4 and cut the spot out to old the rails on. I was afraid how the stain would react or how it would look since 2x4 have rounded edges. Thats pretty much it. The finish was a tricky process. since I used red birch and white poplar I had to find a way to get everything to stain evenly. So basically I
Dyed all the wood then sealed then stained then toner then glaze then a little more toner then when i got the color i wanted i put 2 layers of top coat.
Wed, 05/16/2012 - 06:11
That's simply stunning. That WAS a tricky finishing process, but obviously well worth the effort.
Thu, 05/17/2012 - 03:41
That is one of the most beautiful finishes I have ever seen on this site.
Thu, 05/17/2012 - 11:38
I'm doing a bed very similar to this... but i'm only doing 2 larger panels rather than 4 like you have. How do you the insides of the panels? Quarter round and then crown molding? I was thinking I would attach the trim on top of the plywood and then just attach some quarter round on the inside to round it and make it stand out a little more.
Thu, 05/17/2012 - 17:00
I didn't use any round(but that is the idea to hide the ugly plywood layers that are exposed when cut). Its just 2 3/4 x3/4" whitewood/poplar casing that I had left over from a project i was working on. the frame of the squares was 3/4" birch ply so the casing laid nice and flush with it so it looked nice. the trick is to get the stiles(the frame of the squares to lay flat against the plywood backing other wise the casing won't lay even all the way around.
heres a link to the casing i used
http://www.lowes.com/pd_105664-81562-OML14-7FTWHW_4294801993_4294937087…
heres the link to the crown that i used on the top
http://www.lowes.com/pd_105626-81562-1069-8FTWHW_4294801991_4294937087_…
the trim stuff at the box places are considered paint grade and don't take stain very well. its easiest to paint if you don't have the right setup to finish things. and if you are going to stain I recommend a product called timbermate its stainable wood filler its hard to get but its amazing stuff it blows the minwax stuff out of the water.
I wanted something special for my Daughter’s room. I made her bed and bedside table and then I experimented with your book case plan. I was pleasantly surprised with the finished product.
Somewhere in Louisiana