Farmhouse Style Toy Box / Blanket Chest
I built this for my daughter after Christmas sinse she had the living room covered in toys. The dimensions are 37" x 18" x 20"
I built this for my daughter after Christmas sinse she had the living room covered in toys. The dimensions are 37" x 18" x 20"
I took the plans for ana white's benchwright coffee table and created this end table. This is an exact replica of the Pottery Barn benchwright end table. The wood was distressed by hand and finished with dye, dark walnut gel stain and three coats of satin poly.
- Brad
Mon, 02/09/2015 - 14:33
Your finish work is phenomenal. Closest I've seen to pulling of the PB finish. What color transtint do you use? Any other finishing tips? I've build a couple of knock off PB pieces, but haven't nailed the finish yet.
In reply to Great finish! by marenras
Mon, 03/09/2015 - 22:10
Hi. Thank you for the compliments. First of all, using Alder vs douglas fir or pine plays a big difference in the finish look, but start with pine and see where you get using this process. I first mix de-waxed shellac with a few drops of medium brown transtint dye. It MUST be de-waxed shellac. Experiment with the amount of dye added. I spray one coat of that shellac and dye mixture on the wood. The shellac seals the wood allowing for even stain absorption and a non-blotchy finish. The dye obviously darkens the wood. Then I apply one to two coats of gel stain. I like general finishes antique walnut color. At the next step I sometimes add a glaze, and sometimes I don't, it just depends on what I am seeing. Lastly I seal the wood with a water based poly. Good luck!
In reply to Great finish! by marenras
Mon, 03/09/2015 - 22:10
Hi. Thank you for the compliments. First of all, using Alder vs douglas fir or pine plays a big difference in the finish look, but start with pine and see where you get using this process. I first mix de-waxed shellac with a few drops of medium brown transtint dye. It MUST be de-waxed shellac. Experiment with the amount of dye added. I spray one coat of that shellac and dye mixture on the wood. The shellac seals the wood allowing for even stain absorption and a non-blotchy finish. The dye obviously darkens the wood. Then I apply one to two coats of gel stain. I like general finishes antique walnut color. At the next step I sometimes add a glaze, and sometimes I don't, it just depends on what I am seeing. Lastly I seal the wood with a water based poly. Good luck!
Tue, 03/31/2015 - 10:04
I love the finish you've done on these, and like someone else said it is the closest to PB I've seen yet! I am trying to fix a horrible stain job I did on a project and had a quick question. When you said you sprayed the shellac and dye, do you mean with a spray bottle? Also what kind of de-waxed shellac did you use? I've never used shellac and I see they have flakes and premixed stuff. Thanks!
In reply to Wow! Awesome job! by colleenps
Thu, 04/09/2015 - 15:25
Hi There. Sorry for the late response. The spray the shellac with the dye using a HVLP sprayer. Google HVLP sprayers. They are very cheap and will help out tremendously. I don't recommend using shellac flakes, they can be challenging for a beginner. I use premixed shellac. I use de-waxed shellac because you can apply polyurethane over it. If you plan on applying shellac as a top coat instead of poly you don't have to worry about de-waxed.
Thu, 03/24/2016 - 11:41
This is absolutely beautiful and what I've been looking for to match my Benchwright coffee table!! Do you remember the dimensions you used?
Fri, 01/21/2022 - 09:26
I really like your take on this PB table. It looks like you changed it significantly from the console table plans from which you derived it, and I have a couple questions. First, the legs do not look like 2x4s; what are the dimensions you used? Second, the bottom shelf is much thicker than the 1x12 from the plans; what lumber did you use? And how is this bottom shelf attached to the legs? Square-notched to fit around the corners of the legs?
I wanted to attempt making a dining room table. This is my very first woodworking project. I did use store bought legs from one of the big box stores. Your site completely inspired me to just go for it. It's not quite finished. I've got to do all the sanding and staining. I plan to use a mahogany tone stain to coordinate with my brown/black parsons chairs and hutch in my dining room. Finally finished and I think it looks great! It took a lot of sanding to get all the wood pieces even, but so worth the effort. I love the rustic country look.
This was my first project from Ana's website and I'm hooked! I'm a beginner, but thank goodness for my Dad's help because I have a lot of learning to do!
I wanted the drawer to be 1 drawer instead of 3. I feel like it looks cleaner (without having to adjust 3 drawers constantly to make it look good when you push them in). I was thinking the bed could actually be used as a trundle bed in the future too! I use this to store toys right now and it is Awesome!
I increased the bed size to fit a twin mattress and increased the height of the bed slightly so that the drawer would be a little bit deeper. We also added a back to the bed and carried around the trim to make all sides look the same. We added a bumper to the back and sides of the inside of the bed so the drawer is easy to push in and fits in snug. Finally we reinforced the bottom of the drawer with more 1x4 boards so that if a child does sleep in it, it would be more sturdy. I now have kids come over and jump into the drawer (literally) and I'm glad we reinforced it.
The changes we made did add to the cost and our time (as well as being newbies), but I think it's worth it and the bed turned out beautiful!
Sat, 01/15/2022 - 08:02
Any chance you have your cut list for this? Will the trundle storage drawer fit a twin mattress in it? Also, you say you increased the bed size to a twin, was the original not a twin too?
I didn’t want to have to paint or cut the metal angles - plus I wanted 4 basket tall so I used pre-drilled melamine for the sides making the unit 48” tall. Then cut top and bottom same as plans and bought 5mm L shelf pegs and had shelves cut 24 1/4”. Used white wainscot panel for back. Very easy - especially since I had big box store make all my cuts! Just have to make sure you have peg holes lined up at bottom or you won’t be level.
Deb D.
Wed, 09/13/2023 - 09:38
Thanks for sharing, it looks like the perfect fit and solution for your laundry room!
My attempt at the murphy bar featured on this site. Still have to add the sash locks. Added pallet crossmembers at the back, an x in the leg, and a french cleat to mount to the wall.
Tue, 12/31/2019 - 11:49
This looks awesome! I want to help my friend build this for his kitchen. I've looked at the plans in the link & I'm wondering what modifications you made for the X pattern-- how much did it alter the material & cut list?
Would you please share your material & cut list for this?
Fri, 08/14/2020 - 09:28
I don't understand why I cannot find the material list or the instructions for this every link takes me back to the pictures
Wed, 12/08/2021 - 00:27
It is perfect wall management which is used it in small space
Sun, 01/29/2023 - 13:16
Are there plans for this? I'd love to make this. Thanks
I have been wanting garage cabinets for a long time but couldn't afford them. When I saw these shelves I knew it would be easy to add side panels and create doors for the sections. The size is 8'x8' with the 4'x3' under the ceiling rack. I put a 2"x4" in the middle to divide each section, measured and cut doors from 5mm lauran plywood. I also cut the stiles and rails from the same material to give it interest but mainly to make it thicker to avoid warping as much as possible. I added 2"x4" to create a facing for the doors to rest on. Also used overlay hinges to simplify the hanging as much as possible. I was able to follow the design plan and the only thing I did was add a shelf at the bottom. The cleats were definitely not necessary, it's very sturdy.
Making the doors
The first thing is to learn how to measure for cabinet doors. There are plenty of sites and YouTube videos showing how to correctly measure. If you are doing the same type of doors like I have, with no middle divider, then be sure to pay attention how to correctly measure for those instead of a single door.
The easiest way to make the doors will be getting 1/2 in sanded plywood and use a table saw to cut each door to size. Skip the shaker style trim and put the hardware on and be done. Make sure the hinges will be able to hold the weight of the door.
Unfortunately, I didn't have a table saw but I did have a router and a jig saw, and found a great video on YouTube on how to use a router to cut straight edges without a table saw. I measured out one door and used that outline to cut two identical doors. It turned out that each section was slightly a different width so I had to do two at a time. However, if you have a circular saw you can rig it to make a table saw and make a guide to rip the doors. It all depends on what tools you have available to you.
I have a compact plunge saw and was able to cut the 3 inch strips for the shaker style with it. Honestly, that was the most tedious part and most time consuming by far. That also had to do with the fact that because the plywood is only 5mm thick I cut strips for both the front and the back to make it over 1/2 inch thick to help minimize warping and give the hinges something to grab.
I used the miter saw to cut the stiles and rails to size and a 23 gauge nailer with 1/2 nails and glue to get them on the door. I glued and nailed the front and the back of each side at the same time because the nails are a bit longer than two pieces of plywood. I then turned it over and nailed the other side. The great thing about using a 23 gauge is that I didn't have to fill any holes because they are so small you can hardly see them at all.
The last thing is to use your sander to ensure all of the pieces are even. I used a 60 grit and then followed it with a 220 where needed.
If you want to avoid cutting the strips but still want to have the shaker style, Home Depot sells 1/4 thick Polystyrene flat moulding that will add vertially no weight to the door but the cost can easily add up if you have a lot of doors.
Lastly, if you are wondering why I got such thin plywood that ended up creating more work. The reason is because I wanted to save money on hardware and I didn't trust the inexpensive hinges I got off eBay would hold a heavy door for many years.
Wed, 06/19/2019 - 13:20
What kind of paint did you use? Looks really nice, the whole thing!
Thu, 07/18/2019 - 10:28
This is amazing! Thank you for sharing so much detail on your project too.
Wed, 06/10/2020 - 13:14
Can we get detailed plan of how you made this from the start to end like a material list and cut list.
This is one of the cheapest projects for my kids I have ever completed!! And the most rewarding. I think everyone of my neighbors has been on the teeter totter...including adults :) My kids just love it and I am thinking of making a few for my nephews for Christmas. I was able to find all the wood I needed in my scrap pile. I had the PVC pipe and bolt already also so all I had to make a trip to the store for was the foam for the seats. My son helped me build this in an hour. I liked the unfinished look so I just sprayed it with a little Thompson Water Seal. Thank you Ana White!!
I used the basic framing plan for the project, but extended roof overhangs, added engineered siding / trim and cedar shake roofing. I put 2x4 bracing on for the platform.
Working off your idea. Added another holder. There will be a bottom drawer for bigger stuff.
One day project with hubby! Wanted a wood set, but couldn’t find a reasonable price. Bought tools, wood, supplies, and cushions for under the cost of one online!
I scaled back the length of the sofa by a few inches and I made the sectional only one seat to fit my space on the deck. This was my first woodworking project that I did by myself. I got the cushions for more than 1/2 off at Ikea so the whole project cost about $150 ($80 for the cushions). It took me about a week to complete but the total time was less than 10 hours to build and stain. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.
I fell in love with a set of bookshelves from a big box store (ahem, T@#get) but was disheartened to find that they would not help me get the corner shelf ordered to Canada from their website.
With inspiration from Ana, I decided to design and build the whole thing myself. It cost 1/3 the price, and as my first wood project, I'd say it turned out pretty well.
I made my design to work best with the wood available local to me, and to fit specifically in our room. The biggest challenge wasn't wood-related at all, but was actually dealing with the electrical outlet that I needed to attached to the base of one shelf.
Check it all out at my blog; http://projectjumanji.blogspot.ca
My first Ana White project. My friend Shelley and I are RN's, and she got me hooked on woodworking. I started with cushions from Lowes ( in the sizes that you recommended)to see if I loved the sectional for a few years. I loved it so much I decided to have custom Sunbrella fabric ones made. Even though the custom ones were more expensive, it has been worth it. They go perfect with my California Mission style home. Now I want to add the armless one and make it a U-shape. I did add a piece at the bottom back of each sofa to hold the cushions in. The seat cushions would slide out the back when sitting on the sofa. I made the coffee table to match. Our family loves it!
Proud of this, my very first build. Thanks to Ana White for the detailed, easy to follow plan. Can hardly wait to start the next project!
Fri, 06/16/2023 - 22:02
Absoutely love this, way to go! Can't wait to see your next project.
The pergola is finally complete! I'm sure I'll be adding some more things, but for now....I'm happy. I can not take credit for the Pergola, my husband built that, but there are lots of projects inside to tell you about. I built the sofa, coffee table, 2 chairs and 2 planters. It's a great spot for entertaining or just sitting with glass of wine. I really loved the Rectangles Daybed , but I really had no use for a Daybed, so with a few modifications, I came up with the sofa version. To make it more comfortable I used the slanted back idea from the simple outdoor sofa plan.I love how it turned out and it was fairly inexpensive too. Lumber cost was around $50. I used 2x 6′s, 2×2 furring strips, 1×2 furring strips and 1×4 furring strips. You really have to pick through the furring strips, with some patience I was able to find pieces that would work well for my project. Using the more expensive would would make things much easier, because there would be much less sanding and filling involved…but I love a bargain!! When I first built the sofa for this collection, it was for our covered porch. I was not intending to build any matching pieces. When we moved it to the pergola, I decided to build these 2 chairs. I used plan from the simple outdoor chair and modified the back to match the sofa. The lumber for the chairs cost about $25 per chair. I bought some 2X2 quartz tiles from the Habitat ReStore for $3 each! I thought they would work perfectly for the tabletop. I sketched up a quick design to match the other pieces and came up with this. I used 2×3′s and 1×2′s. The lumber cost was about $15. I also used the Square Planters with Finials plan. I love these planters do much and they were so simple! Thanks for all the fantastic plans and inspiration!!
Tue, 06/10/2014 - 11:05
Thank you so much Ana! I really love your work and can't thank you enough for all the fantastic plans!!
Thu, 05/12/2016 - 21:30
What a lovely space! Including the water feature behind the pergola. I'd love to pull it straight from your photos and drop it into my yard! (I'd better get to work!!) Thanks for sharing.
Well, I started with one chair and finished with a full set. Not bad for a first timer. Definitely room to improve. Little tip if you're going to make this amazing set... raise the backs as they are too low with thicker cushions. I built a casing to go on top after the fact. Pretty happy with how it all turned out. Thanks Ana for the plans... now onto the next project!
Fri, 04/28/2023 - 08:41
Very nice workmanship. I'm curious as to how comfortable they are with the straight 90* backs? Let me know please at [email protected]. Again nice workmanship.
Fri, 04/28/2023 - 08:41
Very nice workmanship. I'm curious as to how comfortable they are with the straight 90* backs? Let me know please at [email protected]. Again nice workmanship.
I built this project totally from pallet wood and leftover 2x4's. I already had the paint and stain from other projects, so the only cost was for the baskets, which were $6 a piece at Ikea. This project turned out even better than I expected and I couldn't be happier.
I saw this super simple farm house table plan on my Facebook feed from Ana and I just had to do it !!$50 in lumber a Saturday afternoon and I was done!!!! Followed all her tips and it turned out great
Great little project. Finished just in time for Thanksgiving.
Andy
Comments
jwelch
Wed, 01/18/2017 - 13:06
Details?
Great job! Can you share more about how the legs were constructed and joined? Was this project based on Ana White's "Simple" toy box plan? Any info appreciated.
jgreaff
Tue, 01/09/2018 - 05:51
More details!
HI Anna,
Can you provide more pictures or instructions on how you assembled this toy box? i want to make one just like it!
Thanks!
zduchene
Tue, 04/16/2019 - 17:43
Plans
Does anyone have the link to the plans for this build?
apezz
Wed, 03/10/2021 - 16:31
Pronounced panel edges
Looking at the wall panels they look like the long edge of each panel has a small bevel cut on it. This gives each panel edge a more pronounced or well-defined edge? Is this true? Was it done with a router?