Community Brag Posts

Outdoor Sectional and Pallet Coffee Table

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Sun, 11/20/2016 - 17:56

Hi Ana! 

My husband used your plans to build the 2x4 outdoor cedar sectional :) He did it in 1 day and it couldn't have been easier! He even tried first time working with pallets to make a small table and it came out perfectly too! Can't wait to enjoy family time on our new back porch.

Thanks Again & Love From Austin ❤️

Kathleen 

Estimated Cost
$350
Estimated Time Investment
Day Project (6-9 Hours)
Finish Used
Stain
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

meredithl

Thu, 10/24/2019 - 16:35

Hi, your furniture is beautiful.  May I ask:   Where did you find your cushions?  And what color/ brand stain did you use?  Lovely job.

Seasonal And Holiday

4x4 Truss Table with Benches

My first furniture project. Made the 4x4 Truss table and matching benches. I used cedar for the 4x4’s as they are the only kind of untreated 4x4’s available here other than knotty pine for $9 a foot. The rest is spruce as that’s what most dimensional lumber here is. The only changes I made were to the pocket holes. I didn’t feel 2 on 1 side would be a tight enough joint so for the table I put them where the plans called for them and then 2 more on the opposite side. I filled in the visible pocket holes with 1/2 dowels and sawed them off flush

Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
For the bases I used Varathane Ultimate Ebony stain and minwax fast drying polyurethane spray in satin.

For the tops I use Varathane Ultimate White Linen stain and Varathane Diamond Finish Soft Touch polyurethane in matte. I applied polyurethane with a brush. Very light sanding with 220 between coats to remove any dust particles that settled and with 400 after last coat. Final sanding was very very light. Just ran the rubber block sander over with the grain to remove any imperfections. This product really is aptly named. The matte finish is beautifully soft to touch.

I believe in the US the Varathane stains I used are branded Rust-Oleum.
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

Barn Greenhouse with Entryway

Submitted by MikeMc100 on Sun, 11/09/2014 - 19:46

This was built mainly as a place to bring our pond plants in for the winter. After looking at various kits we decided this was the best option for us and much cheaper.

The size was increased to 12 X 12 and the walls/ceiling were increased another 15" in height over the original plans. An entryway was added to block the cold wind as our original barnstyle door wasn't tight enough and ended up being too drafty. Also added an RV type autoswitching propane system and blue flame heater for backup. For the winter months we insulated the lower portion of the interior walls with spun fiberglass and 6 mil film stapled over it. 

This is a very utilitarian version that serves our needs well. Great original plans and easy to build.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$1200
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

cmswebster

Mon, 11/10/2014 - 09:57

Did you have to change the angles for the roof beams?  If so, what angle did you use?  

Ana White

Tue, 11/11/2014 - 16:04

Wow, this looks awesome!  I love the arctic entryway (thats what we call them up here in Alaska) and all the mods!  Thanks so much for sharing!

Cedar Chest

We have considered buying a cedar-lined chest to store blankets, towels, etc. for many years.  However, we couldn’t find one that came close to matching the Knotty Pine bedroom set that we had in our master suite. 

Hence, our design criteria was quite simple; match the bedroom set and have a chest sturdy enough to support our Beagles as they peer at the squirrels outside the window.

We used plans / ideas from several different chest designs which were readily available on the internet.  Most of those plans were using hard woods such as oak.  Those plans called for a hard wood framing with ¼” oak plywood for the panels.  Since we needed to use Knotty Pine to match the bedroom set, we used 1” Knotty Pine for framing and Knotty Pine ¾ ply w/ Kreg Screws and copious glue to strengthen the construct.  We finished it off with locally available 3/8” cedar T.G. planks.  It is very heavy and very strong!  This project was done entirely w/ Kreg Screws and no router rabbeting for the panels.

We learned the following while doing this project:

·      When using soft woods, always put the power sander on the wood before you start the sander.  Otherwise, you can get scratching / sander burns that don’t present themselves until staining begins.

·      While very strong, ¾” plywood is very heavy!

·      When using plywood, it is recommended that you stain both the visible and non-visible sides of each piece where glue is not to be applied.  Otherwise the chance for delaminating increases dramatically.

60 hours work and $350 to build.   

Estimated Cost
$350.00
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Minwax stain and hand-rubbed varnish.
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

Outdoor Toys Contained

Submitted by lmflerlage on Mon, 02/22/2021 - 12:32

I love this dual outdoor seating plus toy storage bench. I lengthened the plans so I needed to add some additional support for the lid. I also decided to go with a rope pull which is easier for the kiddos to utilize.

Estimated Cost
$40
Estimated Time Investment
Day Project (6-9 Hours)
Finish Used
Cedar finish
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

Farmhouse table and bench - white base with stained top

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Mon, 05/15/2017 - 19:36

We went off the Farmhouse table and bench design but had to customize the length of the table and bench so that it fit in our kitchen space. The table was our first ever project and we made a few mistakes but learned from them and built the bench and are hoping to move up to the Farmhouse bed and then the fullstorage bed. 

Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Finish Used
Used everlasting in chalk paint for bottom and top then brushed blue over the top let dry then stained the top with minwax dark walnut and wiped off. Applied a few layers until desired look. Dry brushed more blue and white in between stain layers then used polycrylic semi gloss finish
Recommended Skill Level
Starter Project

Barn Greenhouse

Submitted by Tristankb on Sun, 04/14/2013 - 23:44

So a few notes... We added a base of 2x4 pressure treated wood footing around the entirety of the greenhouse which should help keep it from rotting? Blocks are an alternative here. Our lumber store didn't carry the right size of tin sheets so we added a 2x10 at the bottom which seems to work and still look okay. We picked up a 30" metal screen door there which should assist in keeping out the critters and allows us to lock out our small kiddos who might wreck the plants :) This is a great plan!!! Thank you so much! Oh - materials ran about $700 including screen door? We went through about 4 1-pound boxes of sheet metal screws and at least a large box of 3" screws?? and 2 small boxes 1.25"?? If you cut you pieces right you may end up with an extra 8' clear sheet of corrugated plastic? We spent about 20 hours building just the greenhouse but we had hauled a lot of stuff to the site by hand... We are new to carpentry and pulled this off so anyone can do this!! Dremel tool works for cutting plastic, but not as good as the tin!! Good luck and cheers!

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$700
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
None yet planning to waterseal
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

romanweel

Tue, 04/16/2013 - 16:02

This looks amazing! Are you planning to raise your beds in there? Is there a floor, or is that just mulching over the grass? This looks like Exactly what I'd like in my own back yard!

Farm house table and bench

Table and bench before we finished it

Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

Red, White, and Blue Coop

We built this A-frame chicken coop using the plans from Ana White. We modified them a bit to include a front door, a solid front wall, and 8-foot untreated cedar fence boards (cut in half) for the loft floor instead of plywood. We also used hardware cloth instead of chicken wire since racoons are a problem where we live, and they have been known to reach through chicken wire to grab at hens. Instead of being able to open both sides of the top of the coop, we only put doors on one side just to make the building process a little simpler. The hardest part of building the whole coop was cutting the 60* angles on the 2"x4" trusses. Our cuts are not exactly perfect, so the nodes (meeting points of the 60* angle cuts) are a little rough, but we plan on covering this with a roof cap eventually. More photos and details are on my blog: http://littlefarmbigcity.wordpress.com/2013/06/29/red-white-and-blue-co… -kate

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$175 with hardware cloth, paint, front door, and solid front wall
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Paint (only on the exterior of the coop and coop ramp)
Recommended Skill Level
Starter Project

Comments

yurra-bazain

Thu, 07/04/2013 - 02:51

I love this! Makes me want to build one for my neighbor's hens with your touches in mind; perhaps in the near future. :)

Seasonal And Holiday

8 foot long shelf with a little twist

Submitted by Daniel_ram on Mon, 01/03/2022 - 17:25

I just made this shelf using 2x4s 8 ft long wood. It is very strong and looks great. My garage size required the shelf to be max 16 in deep, so I used a 1 plywood sheet divided by 3 equal parts for the upper 3 shelfs. Since I made a 4th shelf, I used 3 1x2s for the 4th bottom shelf instead of a new plywood sheet and avoided having extra 2/3 of the sheet around and also saved like 30$ since the 2x1s were only 2$ea. That touch makes it look a bit stylish too so a win win. If you do that, here's a tip: use the outer 2x4s as rails - make sure that the cleats on the lower shelf are placed a bit lower ~ 1in. In such way, you can place the three 1x2 rails at the same level as the outer 2x4s and this you end up having 5 rails total in the shelf. Do use the wooden screws with star head if you can, they were muuuuuch easier to use compared with the regular ones. Note, this shelf is very strong, probably too strong for my needs. For a 8ft long, and my storage needs (camping, Christmas stuff, other lighter things), I'd probably use 2x2s instead of 2x4s. That would save costs, specially since wood isn't cheap these days( I spent ~$150 in materials Jan 2022).

Comments

Play fort and Swing Set

Submitted by gsnpbc on Fri, 03/16/2018 - 20:33

I wanted to build a structure for the kids to play in and on. I used the playhouse deck design and made it 8 feet by 8 feet. The "roof" is removable to provide shade when it's sunny. It's just 2x2 and a tarp - pretty simple, but it does the job. I used treated posts, dog eared fence boards andlots of screws. I stained and built the walls in my garage before assembling it. Once all of the wood at been stained, it came together pretty quickly with the grandkids help...Lol

 

Estimated Cost
$350
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

Modified PATIO TABLE WITH BUILT-IN BEER/WINE COOLERS

This build was our first one. I completed all the cutting and putt together while my better half completed all the staining and weather treating.

I loved the plan of the cooler table, while looking at that one i saw a modified version that was longer and had 4x4 for legs...

i choose that design due to the weight of the table and figured 2x4s just wouldn't be sturdy enough for the extra length my girl friend wanted.

Estimated Cost
200
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
stain: summer oak
weather coat: clear coat
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

kevolution

Tue, 06/10/2014 - 10:37

Hello! Came across your cool website looking to make a similar table. Do you have the original source from which you had found plans or have the plans yourself and can you recall the approximate cost for this project?

Thank yoU!

My laundry basket dresser with doors

Submitted by jensimmons on Sun, 07/03/2011 - 20:19

I wanted to use our laundry basket dresser as a collector for dirty laundry in our bathroom, and wanted it to have doors so it would blend in better. I also made the shelf above for our towels. It is painted white with a faux-zinc finish on the top. I made the top slightly larger so it would overhang and added cute little bun feet. My talented friend Carli helped me build the doors (and by helped I mean I handed her things while she impressed me with all her tools and skills!) and frame.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$75-100 (can't remember exactly)
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
white semi-gloss paint, zinc faux finish: layer 1 dark charcoal paint, layer 2 dark pewter metallic glaze, layer 3 white paint thinned with water & rubbed on/off.
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

Guest (not verified)

Fri, 07/29/2011 - 23:37

this is perfect! i totally need a bunch just like this! I love the added doors!

Pam in Colorado (not verified)

Sat, 09/17/2011 - 12:48

This is the look I'd like, fit the baskets and hide them behind doors until you are ready to do the laundry. These could be made for bedrooms, bathrooms, toy rooms (okay, toys instead of dirty laundry)...

Guest (not verified)

Fri, 11/11/2011 - 08:05

I absolutely love this! Could you please add instructions on how to make/paint and install the doors? I am a newbie to making my own furniture. Thanks!

Guest (not verified)

Wed, 01/11/2012 - 08:29

I love this idea! I will have a new bathroom soon and I think this will get used! What are the dimensions, or what style cabinet would you suggest to look for? TIA!

Jennifer Simmons (not verified)

Fri, 02/17/2012 - 05:57

The dimensions are the same as Ana's plan: http://ana-white.com/2010/11/laundry-basket-dresser except that the top is slightly bigger (3/4" overhang on front/sides) to look more like a countertop. On the doors we just made a frame w/ angled pieces, routed a notched line on the back & glued/nailed some beadboard in from the back. Sorry I can't be much more detailed on that, a friend did most of the doors for me!

Guest (not verified)

Sun, 02/19/2012 - 07:42

I actually got the plywood to do this project and I was going to add doors. I looked at the baskets suggested but it seems they would stick out the front. I was just curious, did you use different baskets that would fit inside the cabinet or did you make the cabinet slightly deeper?

Jennifer Simmons (not verified)

Sat, 02/25/2012 - 05:36

Actually I discovered the same problem after it was built. I just didn't put a back on and they stick out a tiny bit in the back. I actually kind of like it that way because it lets some air in (being in the bathroom and putting towels in I could see it getting mildewy without much circulation). But if I had gotten the baskets first I probably would have made it about 2" deeper, then leave some open space, but not all, on the back.

Modern Slat bench

Two tone 3 ft long slat bench

Estimated Time Investment
An Hour or Two (0-2 Hours)
Finish Used
Dark walnut and chestnut fence stain
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

Audrey Wright

Thu, 10/22/2015 - 05:16

I love the two toned rhytm. I wonder how you attached the slats. Did you just glue or did you nail / pocket hole etc.. 

Mailbox Base

Submitted by TxDork76 on Wed, 11/14/2018 - 20:27

my mailbox was hit by a vehicle so I decided I wanted to do something creative/different but also didn't want to spend much money as it may just get taken out again in the future :)

this is a good project to get kids to help you with

instead of cutting into the concrete easement, I installed 2 post bases & locked them with sleeve anchors.  They're sturdy enough but will give if hit again.  drilling the holes for the sleeve anchors was the hardest part of the project.

I used a left over 4x4x8 for the posts, scrap 1x4s, 1x2s up the sides (1/2" gap between boards), and a 2x4 scrap to attach the mailbox.  I eyeballed the width between posts using the mailbox itself. I left over stain from another project (almost bought a quart of oops paint at HD)

I figure the total cost would have been about $100

It's a super easy project that took about 4hrs. I've already had a couple of neighbors come by to take measurements to try something similar.

FYI: USPS guildlines for installing a curbside mailbox: https://www.usps.com/manage/mailboxes.htm

Estimated Cost
$75-$100 depending on materials/tools on hand.
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Finish Used
valspar semi-transparent stain & sealer in "Pinebark"
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Rustic Farmhouse Table with Distressed Finish

Submitted by petesveen on Tue, 10/15/2013 - 13:06

When I saw Ana's plans I had to make this table for my home. I like the rustic look, and so I distressed the wood using a steel wool and vinegar solution. I modified the top by using four 2x8's and one 2x10. Otherwise everything is the same. It turned out great and everyone who has seen it at my home loves it.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$130
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Brushed one coat of steel wool and vinegar. Then brushed on 2 coats of Minwax semi-gloss. Next, I sanded using 400 grit. After sanding, I wiped on a very thin 3rd coat of poly using a clean rag.
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

Kabarie

Mon, 11/04/2013 - 14:00

The finish you chose just sold this table to me. Love it love it! Great job!

beccalc1981

Fri, 09/05/2014 - 05:55

So very very new to all this wood working but very excited to get started! I LOVE the finished look of this table. I had never heard of steel wool and vinegar, but just googled and can't to try it! Thanks!

charchav

Wed, 11/25/2015 - 07:14

I Love this Table . You should just come to our house and make it for us.LOL

I was just wondering what type of wood did you use? We live in the south east and cant find any Douglas Fir wood. what other wood would you suggest?

thanks Char

Misha1dibbs

Tue, 08/09/2016 - 07:12

The table looks fantastic. I know you built this two years ago. How has the top of the table held up? I am currently working on this table, and I am debating weather or not to use the kreg pocket screws or to use 7/16ths dowels for the body and mortise and tenon joints for the breadboards. However, that is more work than the kreg screws. If the kregs hold up well, than I would rather do that. Anyway, the table looks fantastic.

Rustic Hall Tree

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Mon, 02/27/2023 - 14:31

I had a lot of fun making this. Thank Ana, I enjoy looking at your work and doing new projects.

Built from Plan(s)

Comments

mod bar wine rack

I made the mod bar and made some adjustments for what I needed. DIdn't need alot of wine racks. Getting the drawer on the slides was a real challenge. I added some trim that's hard to see in the pic. I will add another pic when I get it finished and in the house. Just used plywood and pine boards, and stained it with Golden Oak.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
50.00
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Minwax golden oak
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Rustic X Hall Tree

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Mon, 01/27/2020 - 14:22

I built this scaled down version of Ana's Hall Tree to fit into a 3 foot wide space in my daughter's living room.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$55
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Finish Used
Whitewash
Recommended Skill Level
Starter Project

Closet Organizer for two!

Submitted by tannisg on Mon, 05/07/2012 - 11:51

My two girls (9 and 12) share a room and their dressers (cheap from Ikea) were not only taking up too much space, but also falling apart!

I used Ana's closet organizer plan as inspiration for this, adding more shelves since they won't have any drawers to use.

All of their clothes fit (though its tight!) and they each have their own space, plus much more space to move in the rest of the room.

I made a google sketchup file to work with, but I'm not sure how to upload it?

Basically, I just bought 7 1x12 boards (6' length).

I used 4 of them as uprights: one on either side wall because I couldn't find any studs!?

Then one more is the top shelf (for storage of things they don't use often)

Then the final three were cut to make the shelves - I had very little waste.

One 6' wood dowel (1.25" diameter) for the closet rods. I screwed them directly into the vertical supports instead of using a bracket.

Additionally, I used a couple small 1x4 scraps to make a toe-kick for the middle bottom shelf and a brace at the top. I was going to use the top brace to attach the whole unit to the back wall, but it ended up being too tight a fit and too heavy to pull out to drill into it :) So I think its stable for now at least!

I chose to leave it unfinished because I was in a hurry and the boards I got (at Lowes) were really clean and smooth to start with. The girls have been using it for a few months so far and I don't see any problems with it (splinters, etc.)

I managed to get a picture while it is tidy (hardly ever) and also a picture of the curtains I made to replace the doors - much easier to see the whole space now, and still close it up when (always!) its not tidy.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Time Investment
Day Project (6-9 Hours)
Finish Used
none
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments