Community Brag Posts

Instead of building a free-standing, 4-poster Pergola, I attached one side directly to the house. There are various Pergola design types and shapes. Simply Google for "pergola" images and decide which design you like best, or combine design ideas together (as I did).

Couple things to consider:
A: Is your Pergola more for decorative purposes or actual shade?
My design was more for actual shade (but with a decorative design), which is why I added the 1in x 12in x 12ft Pine boards between the cross beams at the very end (last picture). If your design is more for decorative purposes, you can space out your support beams and cross beams wider (using less wood and money).

You can also choose to use 2x4s as your support beams with 2x2 cross beams on top (essentially furring strips) either close together or spaced farther apart. This would also reduce the overall cost of your Pergola and make it much lighter as well. I chose to use all 2x6s for both support beams and cross beams.

B: What path does the sun follow across the sky over your Pergola?
If the sun passes directly over your Pergola and you want a lot of shade, you'll obviously need to consider this in your design (i.e., more cross beams that are close together).

C: Do you want your support beams and cross beams to inter-lock (by cutting square notches and assembling them like linking logs), or simply stacked on top of each other? (Again, Googling for Pergola images will help you see the differences in designs.)

I chose to interlock all of my beams by cutting notches and fitting them together. Obviously more time consuming to measure each notch, cut, and chisel them but the stability of inter-locking beams should hold up a little better in the strong winds of Las Vegas.

HOW TO (abbreviated)

Overall Pergola Dimensions: 10ft Height, 12x12ft

Tip: Paint or stain all your wood prior to assembly. Much easier. You can always touch-up scuffs and scrapes after it's built.

1. 2x6x12 installed directly onto the house (thru the stucco into the studs) using 3/8in. x 5in. lag screws. (Tip: Seal the top edge of the 2x6x12 that's against the stucco so water doesn't run behind it and down into the lag screw holes.)
2. Install the 2x6 Double Shear Hangers (as many as you need for your design)
3. 4x4 post anchors secured directly into the cement patio using Tapcon 3/16 in. x 2-3/4 in.cement anchor screws.
4. 4x4x10ft posts screwed on top of the anchors. Ensure level on all sides (use a partner to help hold the posts).
5. Attach the front and side 2x6 beams to the 2 posts (again, use a partner to help hold posts while you're up on the ladder screwing your beams to the posts)
6. Attach the remaining 2x6 support beams.
7. Attach the 2x6 cross beams on top (whether you inter-lock them by cutting notches or simply resting them on top, be sure to toe-nail screw them in with 2in exterior screws).
8. Lay 1x12x12ft pine boards on top in between the cross beams and secure with 2in exterior wood screws.
9. Construct the post bases ("sleeves" or "leggings") which greatly adds to the look, as outlined in the "Weatherly Pergola" plans.
10. Touch-up paint / stain any areas you need.

I designed this desk from another desk I built. With this one, I wanted the overall foot-print smaller but still something that was able to organize all our office stuff and be able to close everything to keep it clutter-free. We have a small apartment, and although this desk is about the size of an up-right piano, it works perfectly into our living space!

I made it out of raw hardwood (Ash) and because I knew just the wood alone would make this desk heavy/bulky to move I made the top hutch removable. It's held in place by wood pegs (dominos). All the shelves are adjustable and the drawers are full-extension (something I've never had - wahoo)! The drop-down door is help up by 2 pull-out boards on each side (my first desk had chains). I spend a lot of money on this desk because I knew it was a chance in a lifetime to make and wanted it to be perfect and something that would last generations.

I built the main carcass off of plans/measurements I designed, but then all the insides, drawers, shelves, doors, etc where made as I built (because just a millimeter difference in building changes everything)!

If you want more pictures/descriptions of the building process I wrote about it in a 4-part series on my blog.

king sized headboard. Various wood. Finished in a weekend. First project!

After getting sick of barely being able to seat 4 at our teeny-tiny table from college, we decided we wanted a bigger, more solid table for our dining room.

We actually combined two sets of plans to create the finished project as well as adjusted the measurements to fit our room size (and vertically gifted resident). As beginners, we weren't entirely certain what to expect as the outcome of this project (especially since the plans are slated as intermediate/advance skill level) but we found it actually, surprisingly easy to build!

We substituted 2x6s rather than 1x6s for a more 'sturdy' table top, but it makes the table quite heavy.

Now that the weather is getting nice we can drag the table outside for finishing touches (we finished it in November!)

Interested in the complete build? Go here

Pergola is 10x12 made of all cedar except posts.  Posts were 6x6 brown wood then covered in 1x6 cedar. Slats on top were attached using L brackets. Stained the same year.

This is my second project. (My first was the canopy doll bed.) It just took a couple of days to get it all cut, put together and sanded. This was my first time with the Kreg Jig and I loved using it. So awesome.

My daughter's room has no closet and is pretty small, and I just couldn't find any furniture I liked around here. But I found tons on Ana-white.com! So, her entire room (except one old bookshelf) is now ana-white originals.... the cubbies hide her clothes and toys; the dress-up center functions as her hanging closet; she colors on the easel (originally made for her brother, but he never used it...); and the doll bed serves as a resting place for several different dolls (sometimes all at once). I think I will build her the dollhouse bookshelf to replace the older bookshelf, and once she's ready for a real bed (as opposed to the mattress on the floor), I'll be building that too! The chalkboard easel was one of my first builds, and I have to say, it still remains one of the most challenging (my screws kept splitting, I had a hard time fitting things together, esp. without another pair of hands....), but watching my daughter scribble all over it nearly every day makes it worth every minute! Building the dress-up center and cubbies took almost no time at all - but it took me over a month to get them finished (sanded, painted and poly'd). Thanks again Ana for the great plans and all your hard work!

Awesome plan, used 10” boards and 6” wheels to add height. Also added hinges so that the top opens up for storage. Found some hardware to give it some personality. 

This was a fun project that I made for my wife. I saw a Crate & Barrel table with legs that alternated directions. The plans were easily adapted to match. I stained the standard pine boards with Minwax Prestain, Minwax Red Mahogany stain (2 coats) and sealed with a matte polyeurathane. The matte finish cut down any shine and should prevent any fingerprints from showing up, though witha 2-year and 6-year old this is inevitable. I may still add some small 3-4" triangular braces on the ends of the table at the legs to add stability, but it seems quite stable as it is. The bench is next on the list, but this will have to wait until after Thanksgiving.

Our large lap dog finally discovered he could easily get whatever he wanted out of the trash, so I built the tilt out bin to help keep him out of trouble. lol. I made it cabinet height so we could move the microwave off the counter, and added a drawer to the extra space to keep garbage bags and such in.

The cover is a tonneau cover for a pickup truck. It's for a 6.5' truck bed so if you notice, I had to ad a 2x4 and one more picket on top to accommodate the extra length. 

The cover would add a ridiculous amount of money to the project but it was repurposed.  I found it on a truck that was in an accident and going to the scrap yard. I think it it came out great and my grandson loves it.

John

When I saw the plans for the flower storage table, I realized it was just what we needed for homework time.... Except our only child is a boy, so I just made the top a square instead of a flower. Also because I bought the least expensive plywood, it was too rough for a homework surface so we bought very thin plexiglass to go over it. The thick plexiglass would have cost $60 for a sheet, but the thin option was around $14.00. My son loves it so much he eats his breakfast and dinner at the table. It sits in the corner of our livingroom and is just the right size.

Ever since I got a riding mower, I’ve been waiting for the chance to do something really cool with it (other than cut the lawn, of course).  So what started off as a joke to bring a hayride farm experience to the backyard for my son became a real project to build a wagon for my riding mower.  Not only do I use it to pull my son and his friends around the yard, but its such a timesaver for hauling things back and forth (like 10+ bags of grass clippings to the curb).  Check out my blog post at JustMeasuringUp.com for all the details.  I documented the project from beginning to end with lots of pics.

I made these two Adirondack chairs. I decided to put a deck stain on them (Cape Cod Gray and Pewter)