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The perfect sewing table!

I have been looking at sewing furniture for years, but the prices always made my jaw drop. I have a small craft room, so I needed a table that could also triple as a cutting table and fabric storage. Thank you so much to Ana White for this plan! I built exactly to the plan in The Handbuilt Home, and it's the PERFECT size.

So the sewing machine can sit flush with the top, making working on big sewing projects way easier, I traced the outline of my machine on the MDF and cut it out with a jig saw. Then I built a small shelf using a 1x12 scrap and 2 1x3 scraps. Putting the 1x3s on top of the 1x12 made the shelf 3.75 inches deep, which is exactly the depth I needed. I attached it to the underside of the tabetop using a pockethole jig and screws.

I built 2 boxes using 1/4 inch plywood, and installed drawer pulls on them, giving the illusion that the table has 2 drawers built in. This is where I keep my ugly stuff--interfacing and fabric scraps.

I got the color scheme for the table from the entryway console plan in The Handbuilt Home. In order to make the MDF top look like it had a wood grain, I applied mahogany gel stain with an old washcloth in very thick strokes that spanned the length of the tabletop. It soaked in and lost the "grain" look in some places, but the majority still looks like wood. I did have to apply several coats of polyurathane over the stain; the MDF has a prickly texture that grabs fabric and makes it hard to feed through the sewing machine.

My only complaint is that I didn't quite think through the fact that seating is bar height and I'm 5'7". It's a little difficult to reach my sewing machine pedal. I may build a small stool for the pedal to sit on so I don't have to half sit/stand to sew.

This is the first woodworking project I've done alone from start to finish: from going to Lowe's and picking out the wood, to cutting the wood with a circular saw, assembly, and finishing. (My fiance did carry it up the stairs for me. :) )

I'm so in love with this table! And now to finish the quilt I started 6 months ago....

Built from Plan(s)
Modern Craft Table
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
I used 2 coats of Valspar Signature paint in Laguna Beach, and Minwax mahogany gel stain on the MDF tabletop.
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

MissMehndi

Mon, 09/23/2013 - 15:22

I love this idea!! I too have wanted a sewing table for a long time but the prices of them take my breath away. I may have to make myself one! Thanks for the inspiration!!

Herringbone Bar Height Dining Table with Hairpin Legs

Submitted by kwildman on Fri, 02/08/2019 - 07:13

We used 3/4" birch plywood and glued 1/2" thick x 3" wide wood pieces in a herringbone pattern to make the top.  We used 1 x 3 oak boards for the trim.  The wood is a variety including walnut, maple, cherry, sassafras, etc.   We ordered the metal hairpin legs.   

We started with a base stain of Danish Oil in Dark Walnut.  Once that dried, we went back over that with a very light coat of Minwax gray wash oil based stain.   We used 4 coats Laquer for the top coat.

Easy build and we love how it turned out!

Blog Link
White House Wood Shop
Built from Plan(s)
Herringbone Top Outdoor Table Featuring Cherished Bliss
Estimated Cost
$350 Bar Height hairpin legs were $100, 1/2" wood variety pack was $200
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Two coats of Dark Walnut Danish Oil, one light coat of Minwax oil based gray wash, and four coats of laquer.
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

My cozy outdoor loveseat

Submitted by Megan W on Sat, 10/08/2011 - 17:47

We followed the plans exactly. I I got 4 separate square cushions at Hobby Lobby, got the fabric there also. My friend sewed the cushions for me (so sweet!) because she knows I can't sew=)

I found the little side table at a garage sale for $3 and painted it white to match. I love this piece on my patio...it's great for reading, or to sit and sip coffee or a glass of wine!

Built from Plan(s)
Outdoor Loveseat - Modern Comfort Collection
Estimated Cost
cushions and fabric= $100ish, lumber= <$50
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
paint
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

storage chest

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Sun, 02/07/2016 - 17:13

 Started as a tool chest for garage and after reading a article on ana white about finishings thought I would give it a tfy

Built from Plan(s)
Becca Wood Trunk
Open Top Toy Box
Estimated Cost
about $15.00
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Finish Used
white wash then aged with vinegar and steel wool. Sealed with poly
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Cabin loft bunk bed

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Wed, 10/02/2019 - 08:49

Elevated loft bed for my two boys! Easy build with the plans from Ana White! I modified this version and elevated it so I could fit my youngest underneath. It was my first time using a Kreg Jig and I’m obsessed now. I would recommend buying top quality wood and increasing all numbers by 2-3 inches to make getting the mattress in easier. I would also recommend a lower profile mattress than I used. Happy Building!

Built from Plan(s)
Cabin Bed by Jen Woodhouse
Estimated Cost
$300
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
I used SW marshmellow and stained the roof walnut. Ladder is made out of steel piping that I spray painted (with primer) black.
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

Kid Table & Stools

My wife and I did this table and stools for our son’s class art project. We did something similar last year and they auction the items off in a fund raiser in March. More details and information on the blog – www.atouchofarkansas.com.

Blog Link
Kids Table & Stools
Built from Plan(s)
PLAN: Kid's Storage Play Table
1x12 Play Table Bench with Storage
Estimated Cost
$100.00
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Extra paint we had from other projects, so the estimated cost includes buying paint, but if you have some already, obviously you can take that off the total costs.
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

Sandbox with built in seats/lid

6'x6' with 12'' Treated Sides, 1x4 and 1x6 SPF tops/seats and 2x4 Brace under Seats to accommodate the 6 foot span. Sanded and Painted.

Completed in 2 days, couple hours each day, sanded/painted all boards before assembly.

Built from Plan(s)
Sand Box with Built-In Seats
Estimated Time Investment
Day Project (6-9 Hours)
Finish Used
Exterior Grade Paint.
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Pottery Barn benchwright farmhouse dining table

Submitted by Nathan1342 on Sat, 05/19/2012 - 21:57

UPDATE: For everyone that was asking to see additional photos, I have uploaded them all to flickr. Here is the link: HERE Since doing this table I have built probably 15 more just like this one and developed a much better process then in the pictures above.  If you have any questions or want to chat about it further shoot me a comment or email at [email protected].

I had originally seen this table on the Pottery Barn website. My wife and I really liked it but couldn't afford to pay the $1200 bucks after tax and shipping. it didn't look to difficult to build so I decided to give it a shot. The wood for the top of the table was almost 3in thick 4.5in wide and 51in long. It was wood from an old pallet that was used to transport a very large air handler. Very heavy dense wood. Since the lengths were only 51 inches I opted to put 2 horizontal pieces on either side to extend the total length to approx 70in. I was inspired by the plans for the benchwright table that I saw on this site but chose to deviate from the plans on here to make it as close to the real thing as possible. I also happen to have access to very thick pieces of hardwood. The only thing I had to buy at lowes were the legs. The legs are 4x4 Douglas fir posts. The top pieces were all glued and screwed together. The ends were also done this way but had a very large lag bolt that held them together to match the pottery barn table. This was originally very rough wood so anything to help get the warp out was used. The legs are set at a 10 degree angle and the table stand 30 in tall. The hardest part of this table was finding the turnbuckle and the threaded rods so it could officially be 99% like the pottery barn table. I also had no idea how hard it was to find left hand threaded anything. I ended up finding everything I need at McMaster.com and my local Fastenal store. To make the brackets that went on either side of the rods i simply bought a piece of 1/8 sheet metal at my local Home depot and cut it to size. They also sold hammered brown paint which gave the metal a worked old look. Once this was all constructed I used two heavy coats of wood conditioner to seal the wood. This was the key to getting the color I wanted. It tells you on the can not to let the wood conditioner dry on the wood but if it does, when you apply the stain you get a 100% consistent color. Worked wonders. It almost felt like I was cheating. I used a water based condition and stained it with rustoleums "dark walnut" stain. Finished it with 5 coats of minwax semi gloss. I only did 5 coats because I was brushing it on and had trouble getting the bubbles out of it. In the final picture it looks much shinier then it is in person. The last picture of when it was still in my garage is a better indication of the final finish. I have a boat load of additional picture, so if you have any questions or want to see more pictures of how it was constructed, shoot me a message. Thanks!

Built from Plan(s)
Benchright Industrial Farmhouse Table
Estimated Cost
300
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Minwax Semi-gloss
Rustoleum Dark Walnut Stain
Minwax water based wood conditioner
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

Bunnie1978

Sun, 05/20/2012 - 08:16

I've had trouble with bubbles too... I have two pieces of advice for your next bubble-free project...
1. Get a sprayer. Seriously.
2. If you don't get a sprayer, use the foam pad-brushes for your final layer of poly. Put the last layer on thick and use the largest side of the brush (the side) and lay it down over the wood and drag it slowly accross with the whole large surface on the wood. If it is soaked in poly it will lay it down smooth with little if any bubbles, keep the surface you're working on flat, and after you've finished that, just make sure you clean up any edges where the poly may have dripped down. Last step, when it's almost dry, use 600 grit sandpaper to VERY lightly smooth out any little bumbs, which will come off more like paste than dust. But really, you should just get a sprayer. :)

Nathan1342

Sun, 05/20/2012 - 17:42

Hey Bunnie,

Thanks for the tips! I completely agree with you about the sprayer. I do actually have a sprayer but didn't want to get the garage covered in over spray. Maybe one of these days I will get ambitious and apply another coat. :)

Bunnie1978

Sun, 05/20/2012 - 19:22

My whole living room is covered in overspray right now... just got a sprayer and used it for the first time this weekend. LOL. I don't have a garage.

SawgrassHomeGirl

Sun, 05/20/2012 - 09:35

This is awesome! Can you give more direction as to which specific items you got at mcmaster.com and Fastenal?

Also, how did you attach the sheet metal pieces? If you have any more pictures of the underside (frame) of the table, I'd love to see them!

Thank you very much, and again, this is spectacular. We want to try to build this, too.

Great job!

Cindy from Indiana (not verified)

Sun, 05/20/2012 - 10:38

Love it! This project turned out great and I love how you tracked down the hardware - that finishes it off perfectly!

Like SawgrassHomeGirl, I'm wondering what the actual names of the items are that you tracked down. I went and paged through the McMaster and Fastenal sites, but since I'm completely unfamiliar with mechanical doodads I'm not even sure which categories to look under.

Fantastic job! Thanks for posting this!

Nathan1342

Sun, 05/20/2012 - 18:13

Thank you for the nice comments. This was my first official project so I am happy that it turned out well!

Sure! I'd be happy to know the names of the hardware items. At Mcmaster.com the turnbuckle I purchased was Item number 30045T44 . It is about 6in long and seemed to fit nicely with the length of the table. the rods were just simply threaded rods which I purchased at fastenal since we have a few of their stores in town. The rods come in 6 ft pieces so I didn't want to have to pay the shipping. If you don't have a Fastenal near by here are the item numbers for the rods; 90322A220 -right hand threaded rod and 95625A160 - left hand threads. They are a bit more expensive at mcmaster though.

The biggest thing I was worried about was that the entire rod had threads on it so I was worried that it would look odd. But after getting it painted you don't even notice that it isn't just a solid pipe.

Sawgrass: shoot me your email address and I'll send you some more pictures. This site only allows me to post 5 additional photos. But to elaborate on the frame and the metal pieces, I didn't' really build a frame for it. You can essentially break it down into two pieces: Top and the legs. Instead of building a frame and screwing the pieces down on it, I opted to screw each of the pieces together using a Kreg tool and also glue them. the wood was heavy enough to support everything without an elaborate internal structure. The two end pieces help keep things from warping. The only reinforcement I did for the top was to take 3 2x4's and screw them horizontally on the underside. You will be able to see all of this in the pictures. As for the metal pieces, i drilled 5 holes in each piece. 4 holes for the screws that hold it to the leg region and one half inch hole in the middle for the rod to go through. I have a bunch of close ups of this process so you should be able to get a very good idea of how things work. Overall I tried to keep everything as simple as possible.

Thanks for all the interest and if anyone has anymore questions please don't hesitate to ask!

Cindy from Indiana (not verified)

Tue, 05/22/2012 - 09:01

Thank you so much for taking the time to answer our questions! You did a fantastic job on this table and I am adding it to my ever-growing list of projects to do!

Now I'm off to find that hardware. :-)

Thanks, again!

lillylamp

Fri, 11/08/2013 - 06:33

My e-mail is [email protected]
My husband is making this table for Thanksgiving dinner. We are expecting 14 people so he is making the table a total of 12 feet long! Any input or pictures will be greatly appreciated!
Lisa and Gary Peters
Angola, IN

aclisto

Fri, 09/05/2014 - 14:53

Could you send me the more pictures link?  Great job!  goldmoon8(@)hotmail(dot)com

Destiny (not verified)

Tue, 05/22/2012 - 16:58

So i wanna build this table this summer, could you shoot me some more pictures of the designs and actual steps for building it. i absolutely love it, and i hope mine comes out as good as yours!

Robert (not verified)

Sat, 05/26/2012 - 13:13

This has been on my to do list for a while now, but I haven't been able to work out the hardware details like you did. I would love to get some more pictures especially of the underside and of your rod to stretcher connection. Thanks again and you did an amazing job!

Bulldog1Jack

Fri, 04/25/2014 - 18:43

Nathan,
Can you send me the link for the other photos...table is awesome.
Thanks
John

Aubrey (not verified)

Sat, 05/26/2012 - 17:54

I love this table! I am new to this site and to building, but I want this to be my first project. Could you possibly email me the detailed pics and plans also so I can get started? :) Thanks so much!

ajmccallister

Tue, 05/29/2012 - 18:41

I am really inspired by the table you built. It looks like you built your legs with 4x4s. Did you drill through them to get the notch on the outside or did you do something else just to get the look? Great work!

Nathan1342

Tue, 05/29/2012 - 20:58

Hi Aj,

Yes, I did use 4x4's for the legs. It was much easier this way, did a great job achieving the heavy look I was interested in and was the closest I could come to the pottery barn table. To answer you question, no I did not drill through. I attached the 2x4 cross member with 2 leg screws from the outside of the 4x4 leg. I then cut a small piece of the 2x4 and nailed it over the lag screw holes to simulate the 2x4 cross member coming through. It looks just like I cut a hole and the whole thing is coming through. I get asked how I did it by people that see it in person because it doesn't look like a separate piece is just nailed on.

If you look at IMAG0306 and IMAG0308 on flickr you can see what it looks like without them on and if you look at the bottom left hand corner of the picture you can see the pieces that have been cut and not put on yet.

Sara (not verified)

Mon, 06/11/2012 - 06:48

Your table is gorgeous! I'm curious how much this cost for you to build (lumber and finish materials) and how much of an increase in cost do you think it would be if you had to purchase all the lumber?

Nathan1342

Mon, 06/11/2012 - 11:01

The Lower portion was probably about $200. The biggest expense was the threaded rods and the turnbuckle. The rods were about $30 each and the turnbuckle after shippping was about $20. The wood for the lefts and cross members were purchased at my local lowes so they were pretty cheap. As for the top, its hard to say since wood prices vary quite a bit between types and thickness. If you were to buy wood like I used you would probably have to visit a sawmill and see if you could get rough cut wood that is at least 2.5 inches thick. I would estimate $300 give or take. If you follow the plans that ana has setup for the top you don't necessarily need to get wood that is that thick. You can achieve close to the same look but just using 3/4 in pieces. I think if you look very closely at the pottery barn pictures, they do not use 100% solid wood either. But I wanted the heavy look and the solid appearance. So total you are probably looking at $500-$600. Hope this helps!

Curt (not verified)

Wed, 06/20/2012 - 11:28

Great job Nathan - I appreciate your workmanship on the table. You've answered one of my questions regarding the look of the cross member protuding thru the leg - slick idea. My other question - why all the large round holes in the bottom of the table? By the way, the dowel effect that you accomplished really pops. I too like the looks of the thicker boards. Thanks for posting an interesting and comprehensive article. Curt

Nathan1342

Thu, 06/21/2012 - 13:06

Those holes in the bottom of the table were there when the wood was salvaged. This was a pallet so they had it bolted together with large lag bolts. The bolts had large washers inset into the wood. The bolts were secured on the underside of the wood and went through every piece. Luckily, they were consistent and only bolted from one side.

Thanks!

Sara (not verified)

Tue, 07/10/2012 - 06:36

Thank you, Nathan, that really helps! Did I mention your table is beautiful?

leabea28

Fri, 08/03/2012 - 12:53

Hi Nathan,

Awesome table. I just hope I can find some 3" thick lumber without breaking the bank! It looks like you attached the legs by putting 2 bolts through the legs into the small apron on the short ends of the table. It also looks like you might have also put in some pocket holes on the inside of the legs, going straight down into the underneath of the table boards. Is that right? I am just wondering how sturdy it is, since it's such a heavy table.

Thanks!

Lea

Nathan1342

Mon, 08/06/2012 - 11:43

Yes, you are correct. I attached the legs with 2, 6inch lag bolts. I pre-drilled them at the correct angle (which I eye balled) and ratcheted them in. I was a little worried about them being sturdy enough so I went ahead and made a few pocket holes and secured it that was also. The legs overall are very sturdy. The table probably weights 150-200lbs and I was able to pick up one side of it only holding onto one leg. Table doesn't wobble at all. The cross member holding the legs together also helped pull everything together.

Thanks for the question! Feel free to ask any others!

Nathan

JenFarrell (not verified)

Sun, 08/12/2012 - 18:17

Fantastic table! Thanks for posting all the instructions and places to buy hardware. My husband and I can't wait to try this!

JenFarrell (not verified)

Sun, 08/12/2012 - 18:19

Fantastic table! Thanks for posting all the instructions and places to buy hardware. My husband and I can't wait to try this!

3RaysofSunshine

Fri, 08/24/2012 - 09:33

Nice work! I made bench seats in this style - maybe I'll post pics sometime too! I saw in your description that you used thick wood to be more like the original... just wanted to let you know that I have seen the "original" and yours is much better! Pottery barn does NOT use solid 3" wood for the top. If you look closely at the pics in their online catalog you can even tell... they use thin planks with a side piece to make them look thick. The only hefty piece is on the very end .

Also, I wanted to mention that I have had great luck with wipe-on polyurethane... never any bubbles. Just be sure to use lint free cloths and lots of thin layers.

Again, nice work!

3RaysofSunshine

Fri, 08/24/2012 - 10:05

I apply with a cloth. It takes many coats but they are so thin they dry fast. In between coats, I wet sand with 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper. After towel drying, I run my hand across the surface. You'll feel any spots you missed. Then use a tack cloth to pick up any dust (there's always some...) I get a perfect finish using this method. I'm sure spraying is great too... I just like not having another piece of equipment to clean!

My last project (a patio table) I had run out of the wipe-on poly and decided to use something else - whatever I had on hand. Grr! Not nearly as nice looking so I'm doing it over. I'll post pictures of a few projects as soon as I can figure out how.

greenebeansmom (not verified)

Sun, 11/18/2012 - 21:15

Why cant my husband make stuff......booooooooo! Wonderful table I am so jealous lol.

Shannan with an A

Tue, 04/16/2013 - 16:34

Before I clicked on your brag photo, I really thought it WAS a Pottery Barn table posted for comparison! Wow, that is beautiful!!!

Nathan1342

Thu, 05/02/2013 - 15:04

Hey Lea,

It was only 1/8 in thick metal so a simple jig saw with a metal bit worked great. Wear eye protection though. It shoots off all sorts of hot metal bits. To drill the holes I just used a power drill with a metal bit. Make sure you drill 100% straight or the bit will bind and jerk the drill right out of your hand. Ideally, a drillpress would work much better since I nearly broke my wrist on the second large hole.

Let me know if you have any other questions!

Thanks,

tcoche

Sat, 06/01/2013 - 20:36

The table looks awesome man! Love it. I just got done building the benchright table to Ana Whites plan, see mine here http://ana-white.com/2013/05/farmhouse-benchright-table-build-0

I just ordered the left hand threaded rod, right hand threaded rod and turnbuckle from McMaster.com...total cost for all 3 was 22 bucks. Here are the McMaster part numbers:
90036A033- left hand rod
98841A033- right hand rod
30045T44- galvanized turnbuckle

I'll hopefully get the rods and turnbuckle this week so I can totally complete this project.

Again, awesome job nathan!!!

CoreyOrvold

Sat, 07/13/2013 - 22:28

What a great table. We plan on starting ours soon but are having trouble find large bolts for the table top sides. What size did you use and where did you find them?

Rustic Modern 2x6 Platform Bed

I recently moved to Boulder, CO and finally have a garage where I can actually work on projects. Since I moved here with practivally nothing, I decided I should build my own bed. This is probably one of the most ambitious wood working projects I've attempted. I also tend to be slightly anal, so I've probably spent way more time on this project than most people have or will.

After reading the plans and other Brag Posts, I felt I was ready to start. I ordered the Kreg Screws, and a few other supplies I would need for the Project on Amazon and was off to the races. Several trips to Home depot to get various pieces of wood, (since I wasn't going to fit it all in my Subaru in one go), I finally had most of the lumber for the bed frame. Let me tell you, it's not easy getting straight pieces of lumber (as mentioned before, I'm a little anal). I decided to go with oversized lumber, since I would have more usable leftover pieces for other projects.

I spent several hours after work during the week, and several more on the weekend, sanding down all the lumber with 60 Grit, then applied the first coat of Stain, to raise the grain. I was out of town for the weekend, and let the stained wood sit in my garage while gone. When I got back, I noticed a lot of marks which I didn't notice before staining. Some of these were from the belt sander I used to knock down really rough parts of some of the lumber. But most of the marks were because I put too much pressure on my random orbital sander.

Lesson learnt: Sanding takes time, and patience! DO NOT press down hard on the sander, if you don't want marks on your wood. These marks will be significantly more prominant after staining.

I decided to sand everything again, 60 grit, then 100, then 150. I gotta say, the wood feels so much nicer to touch and I'm glad I decided to re-sand. I spent a few hours after work to get most of the head board pieces done, but noticed that the 2x4 had warped beyond repair... I'm going to get the upper and lower 2x6 pieces ready to assemble with my kreg jig this weekend, and then decide if I want to add a 2x4 in the middle like the plans call for.

I decided to go with just 2x6s for the headboard, I used the Kreg Jig to put it all together, I also attached 4 supports made of some scrap Plywood I got from my neighbor for the headboard.

I stained it all with a Staining pad twice, then applied 3 coats of Poly with a brush. I didn't sand between coats since I was applying very thing coats and I had already sanded everything down with 150 grit. 

Built from Plan(s)
Rustic Modern Platform Bed Frame with Headboard (All Bed Sizes)
Estimated Cost
$100-150
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Stain: Minwax Oil based Dark Walnut - 2 coats with a staining pad
Varnish: Satin Water based Indor Polyurethane by Varathane - 3 coats with a brush.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Minwax-1-qt-Wood-Finish-Dark-Walnut-Oil-Based-Interior-Stain-70012/100376185

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Varathane-1-qt-Clear-Satin-Water-Based-Indoor-Polyurethane-200241H/100169146
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

username.

Fri, 03/02/2018 - 19:17

Sick job dude! What stain is that? I like the color of it and might use it for mine. Did you notice a stain odor at all after applying the stain and covering it with the poly? 

Fold down laptop desk

Submitted by Taa-daa on Wed, 09/21/2016 - 21:42

Inspired by Ana's Flip down wall art desk. It has different dimentions since wall space was limited. I used a magnet as a lock, added upholstered back, dowel for storage and extended the bottom part to add some strength. It is very handy!

 

Built from Plan(s)
Flip Down Wall Art Desk
Estimated Cost
30$
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Finish Used
spray paint and home made chalk paint
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

PATIO TABLE WITH BUILT-IN BEER/WINE COOLERS

Submitted by Joagirard on Fri, 07/04/2014 - 21:05

My sister was in love with my 4x4 truss table i made and needed a patio table so we decided to take one day to make 2 tables, one for each. We convinced both daddys to take care of the kids while we made the table by telling them the tables were gonna have beer coolers inside! Attaching the to of the table was a lot a job. If you plan of doing this you really want to have a kreg jig. It works well, we love it. I made a bench to go with it. I made my how plan for it.

Built from Plan(s)
Patio Table with Built-in Beer/Wine Coolers
Estimated Cost
200$
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Sico outside wood stain color oak. 3 coats for the top and 3 coat sico chocolate for the bottom. All applied with a brush.
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Farmhouse Table - No Pocket Holes Plan

Submitted by mcronin on Sun, 07/19/2020 - 07:48

The published plans for this were great. This was my first attempt at a project like this. I have always liked the idea of dining at a large table outdoors and the farmer's style is appealing to me. I adjusted the length to fit my deck, but also made a few changes for aesthetic purposes. I notched 4x4s rather than join a pair of 2x4s for the legs. Added caps to the screw holes rather than filler and used pegs to secure the top planks in addition to screws from the bottom. The frame and top were stained/sealed with Cabot Australian Timber Oil.

Built from Plan(s)
Farmhouse Table - No Pocket Holes Plan
Estimated Cost
$200.00
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Cabot Australian Timber Oil, Natural
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Large Bench

This bench is freaking huge but I love how it turned out. A lot of pocket holes for the back so it took a lot of putty to cover those up but that’s to be expected. Proud of this one.

Built from Plan(s)
Large Outdoor Bench with X Backs
Estimated Cost
40
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Loft Bed with Desk & Bookcase

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Tue, 04/04/2017 - 12:47

Created but Modified from the plans found on here, my daughter has a great new bed. This bed saved a ton of space in her very small room. PLUS it allowed her to have an area to do her homework and all the art projects she does! Very easy build. Took a day to build and another to paint. 

Blog Link
This DIY Home
Built from Plan(s)
How to Build a Loft Bed
Under Loft Bed Tall Bookcase
Estimated Cost
$250.00 CDN
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Behr Marquee Paint
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Love my table!

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Sun, 05/28/2017 - 23:14

This is my one and only woodworking project so far, and I am so proud of it. I used reclaimed 2x6 redwook deck boards for the top and had to modify the design to make the table a little bigger. I also added an umbrella hole to the center. I'm hoping to add benches one of these days, but with two daughters and a baby, I'm not sure when that will be! Thank you, Ana, for your design!

Built from Plan(s)
Simple Outdoor Dining Table
Estimated Cost
Less than $100
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Satin water-based polyurethane on the redwood top, primer and flat white paint on the legs.
Recommended Skill Level
Starter Project

4x4 Truss beam table and bench

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Mon, 10/04/2021 - 13:42

The plans were very easy to follow for non avid woodworkers. We decided to upholster the seat on the bench.

Built from Plan(s)
4x4 Truss Beam Table

Comments

Paper Roll Dispenser

Submitted by vendo on Wed, 11/17/2021 - 10:44

This took me about 20 minutes! I love the look of it and that it can just be left out when the kids aren't doing art. A great little item to add to keep the kids busy and inspired. I made a couple of mods from the plan. I used glue and nails instead of pocket holes and I did that bottom board flat instead of on it's side. I also used a little bigger dowel, and bought two rolls of paper on Amazon for $14.I'm giving this to my daughter for her birthday with some fun art supplies, so I think it's a great gift idea for any occasion for those crafty people out there!

Built from Plan(s)
Craft Paper Roll Holder

Comments

Monika

Tue, 04/02/2024 - 06:09

Sometimes, when working with papers, you might need to convert file formats, right? So, I recently came across this website https://pdfflex.com/webp-to-png It's super handy for converting. It's been a real time-saver for me, especially when I need to tweak documents for printing or sharing. I'd desided to share in case it helps someone else out there too!

Shoe dresser

Submitted by RoseOfShaz on Thu, 07/04/2013 - 15:26

I didn't build this shoe dresser because I particularly needed one, but it looked so lovely that I couldn't resist.

- I modified the plans by building 3 bins instead of 2 so it could hold more shoes.
- I decided against the dowel stick and opted for hinges instead, which were surprisingly not too difficult to assemble. I found that I didn't even need the magnets after installing the hinges as the doors stay closed.
- I used 7" chains on both sides of each bin instead of a belt to make it extra sturdy.
- I added two back legs.

Et voila! This is the end result. I'm very pleased.

PS. Those flopping bins are a pain when you're trying to build!! An extra pair of hands is definitely recommended.

Built from Plan(s)
Shoe Dresser
Estimated Cost
$150 (with extra bin)
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Walnut (can't remember the exact name of the stain, but it's the one Shanty 2 Chic always uses!)
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

SoCaliforniaMel

Fri, 07/05/2013 - 22:49

Pretty :) Good Job. Now if I only had the space for one thats 10 rows high :P I like the stain color too. Shanty 2 Chic always uses Rust-o-leum. I think its called dark walnut. Dont quote me though. I love the stain and spray paint combo colors they use.
~Melody

Designer Shoe Shelves on a Budget

When we first bought our house, one of the things that appealed to me was the walk in closet off the upstairs foyer. A walk in closet in a house from the 20′s? That’s unheard of! I know I could have designed this in a way that fit more, but I switch out my shoes seasonally, and I personally wanted slanted shelves. Come on, they’re so much prettier! Shopping List 1 – sheet of 1/2″ plywood (4 x 8′ sheet) 2- Primed 1×2′s @ 8′ 1 – 1/2″ Square Wood Dowel (like this) 2- Chair Rail @ 8′ (like this) Kilz Paint Primer Behr Semi Gloss White Paint Indoor Caulk Wood Putty 2″ Screws 2″ Nails Cuts Plywood- 5 pieces at 23″ wide and 12″ deep. Cut either of the 23″ end at a 45 degree angle. Plywood- 1 piece at 23″ wide and 12″ deep 1×2′s- 10 pieces at 12″ with ends cut at 45 degree angle. Then measure 1″ down from the top of the front piece, and cut it straight across. 1×2′s- 2 pieces at 12″ 1×2′s- 1 piece at 21.5″ Wooden Square Dowel- 3pcs at 23″ Chair Rail- 6 pieces at 23″ How To Build 1. I first figured out how far apart I wanted my shelves to be. I don’t have particularly tall shoes, so I had the first shelf 17″ off the ground in the front, and then they were set approximately 12″ apart after that. I located the studs, and screwed in the 1×2′s on the walls directly into the studs. 2. I then added the wooden dowels to the tops of 3 of the shelves. I didn’t even nail these down, just used wood glue and caulk. I set the wooden dowel 2.5″ from the back of the shelf. 3. After that I dry fit the actual shelf on top of the 1×2′s. This was probably the hardest part because of course this house doesn’t have even walls. Why would anyone ever need even walls? What a silly concept. I ended up having to sand a lot of the edges to make them fit. Caulking will help fill in those gaps! I then nailed in the shelves to the 1×2′s from above. 4. I slowly worked my way up the wall. When I got to the top shelf, I knew that I wanted a flat shelf to store boxes of shoes. I also added an extra 1×2″ to the back wall just in case I really decided to stack those shoes high. I followed the same process as I did for other 1×2′s, and screwed this into the stud. Closet 1x2 All Shelves 5. Then I used the chair rail and aligned it at the bottom of the 1×2″ and nailed it to the front of the shelf. It sticks up higher than the front of the shelf, which is great for catching shoes that tend to slip down. 6. After this I, I ended up using wood putty and caulk to fill any gaps. They work miracles on wood. 7. Finally I just painted everything and viola! Budget 1 – sheet of 1/2″ plywood (4 x 8′ sheet) – $28.97 2- Primed 1×2′s @ 8′- $5.98 1 – 1/2″ Square Wood Dowel - $1.75 Chair Rail - $16.00 Kilz Paint Primer- already owned Behr Semi Gloss White Paint- already owned Indoor Caulk- already owned Wood Putty- already owned Screws- already owned Nails- already owned TOTAL: $52.70

Blog Link
Sunshine and Sawdust
Estimated Cost
$50.00
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
White Semi Gloss Behr Paint
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Cottage bedroom bookcase

Submitted by yhaas on Thu, 10/29/2015 - 20:42

I used 1 x 10s to make the bookcase a little shallower, and left the back open. Thanks for the great plan.

Built from Plan(s)
Channing Bookcase
Estimated Cost
$100
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Varathane diamond finish water-based polyurethane, satin.
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner