This pedestal base for the washer and dryer really created the perfect opportunity to organize and declutter our tiny laundry room. Had to resize it a bit to fit the space but it turned out perfect! I added a super easy top for an even counter space and bought some stock laundry room cabinets to sit in the back for extra storage. Such an upgrade!
We loved the idea of the Jr. Loft Bed, but made some modifications to fit our needs.
Modifications:
-I didn't really feel the 2x6 railing was needed, so to cut costs, we used all 2x4s. On the end, I put two 2x4s one on top of the other to keep the mattress from sliding off the ladder side.
-Height was a concern for me as my kids are 4 & 2. So I lowered the overall height by about a foot. 54in is the height. Since we are putting my youngest on the bottom (on the floor) we made sure she had enough head room.
-We wanted this to be STURDY and reversible. So we added bottom supports on both long sides to ensure that the frame wasn't going to move. We also added six 2x4 supports under the mattress on the top. I can climb up there to tuck in sheets with no problem.
-We skipped the stairs & landing. I didn't want my kids to be playing on the bed. So we skipped the stairs and just built a ladder into the frame instead.
This was a fairly easy build. We previously built a HUGE Ana White Table. And I felt like I was kreg jigging for DAYS. This was only a few hours of cutting, sanding, kreg jigging, and a simple put together. Staining took the longest! It's a great bed and we're so excited it's finished!
Super easy and useful project. I made mine 8 ft. long because my studs are on 24 in. centers and I had a lot of tools to hang. It was fun building it and even more fun getting all those tools and things off the floor.
I wanted to build an L shaped outdoor bar with a 2 post pergola over the grill. I couldn't find any plans online that would fit the space I had, so I decided to build it myself with custom dimensions. The top bar is approx. 7'3" across, and 15" wide, while the distance from the right edge (next to the house) to the end of the bar is approx. 9'1".
I framed it with PT lumber and the 2 pergola posts are sitting on top of the pavers and supported internally within some of the framing studs. Since the pavers sit on top of concrete, I didn't feel the need to dig up the existing pavers and achor them in the ground.
I used hardiboard for the exterior and tiled the lower section of the bar.
For the actual high bar top, I wanted to do something unique, and found a 900 year old scrap slab of Cypress at a local lumber yard. One side was smooth, but underneath was gouged out from different saw cuts and very uneven. I screwed a piece of 3/4" PT plywood underneath and trimmed it with 1-1/2" Cypress. I stained the whole thing with a dark honey colored stain and put a generous amount of poly on it once it was dry. There are a few cracks and nicks on it, but once it was stained, it looked awesome.
Wed, 06/19/2019 - 13:23
Looks awesome. I have been wanting something like this for a while now. Where can we can plans for this?
Platform (Pedestal) with Drawers for front-loader Washer & Dryer. Cheaper than buying the manufacturer's plastic pedestals and more fun to build anyway! The drawers are also much wider and deeper than the manufacturer's pedestals. We can usually fit about 3 full loads of laundry in each drawer. (That's 6 loads of laundry before we have to start folding!) It's a very easy and basic DIY project. I made a 2nd one for my brother using these plans (sans the drawers). I gotta say, the drawers are SO nice to have though. But you could just leave the front open, without drawers, and slide some laundry baskets underneath for an even quicker project. We've been using this platform now for over 2 years and there is still no squeaking or rattling. The washer & dryer haven't moved from the vibration even in the slightest. They're exactly where I placed them on the pedestal 2 years ago. There's also zero problem with the weight of the washer either...it really is a strong frame. (After finishing, I jumped up and down on it!) A couple small tweaks I would make doing it over is raising the drawers a 1/2" in. off the floor to tuck a rug underneath (as is, they sit about 1/8" in. off the floor). Also, I would cut out a couple of square holes in the back panel to access those socks that fall behind (I can't access the sides of my W&D in our particular laundry room). Lastly, I would have painted with a quality paint (I just used a few cans of white spray paint to be quicker). Step-by-Step Plans and Materials List (PDF) and many more photos found at the Blog Link below...I'm certainly no professional "Plans Writer" so email if you have questions! Happy DIY-ing! Estimated Cost: ~$200 (2x6 lumber, plywood, drawer trim, nails, screws, paint)
Wed, 03/13/2013 - 10:12
I have wanted to do the pedestal project for quite a while. I am so glad I held off though. Yours are fantastic! I would never have thought of drawers to hide the dirty laundry! Love it!
Fri, 02/07/2014 - 17:05
Hello this looks great and for the amateur carpenter I am but one item I need clarified "the top measurement at 64" is .25" greater than the bottom at 63.75"
Please explain if I am missing something
Thanks
Mon, 02/10/2014 - 15:33
Not sure what measurement you mean that's 63.75" since there's no "bottom" to the pedestals. Or do you mean 1/4" wider than the sides? The top panel should overhang both sides by 1/4" each so that when the side plywood is attached, it will be flush. Hopefully that helps? (If I'm understanding the question correctly)
Mon, 02/24/2014 - 10:29
Could leave the back panel of plywood out so you could reach what may fall behind? Then you would just have to pull the drawers out?
Thu, 12/03/2015 - 06:11
Did you ever find out if you can leave off the back panel?
Wed, 06/22/2016 - 16:35
Back panel is very very structural and provides lot of strength. If i wanted more access than the 5-7 inch of duct space behind the pedestal gives me, then i would replace the back panel with a long 2x6, that holds the three legs from going in different directions due to all that weight.
Mon, 12/12/2016 - 14:58
This is the one modification I could make if i could redo these plans...I would still put on the back panel of plywood as it stabilizes the pedestal, I would just have cut out a rectangle (behind each drawer) so that I could remove the drawers and stick my hand/arm through to grab fallen clothes or vacuum the lint.
Mon, 12/18/2017 - 19:17
Rather than cut holes in the back, I just cut the back and side boards a little small and left a gap around the bottom the whole way around. That way I can get a vaccuum hose in there or reach through and get lost items. Because my washer and dryer seem to be deeper than yours (I needed at least 33" depth, so I went with 3'), that also worked out well in getting the most out of the boards. I could do the top, back, and sides out of one single sheet of good 3/4" plywood just leaving those small gaps at the bottom for clean-up and retreival.
Fri, 11/20/2015 - 05:23
Hello,
I downloaded the pdf but have exactly the same information that the website html, where can I find a solution step by step guide?
Thank you for all the interesting posts.
Mon, 12/12/2016 - 14:55
The original step-by-step plans are found on Ana-White:
http://www.ana-white.com/2011/01/sausha%E2%80%99s-washerdryer-pedestals
My husband and I made the table and chairs for our screened porch. We really like how the project turned out. Many more Ana White projects on the our list!
When I was 8 months pregnant and going through my “nesting phase” I knew I needed to get my garage organized. Prior to building this, my tools were all over the place. To try to get it done before the baby came, I called my dad to help me out, and we built it together in just a couple days. It was a weekend I will never forget and I smile every time I walk into my shop knowing we did it together.
Built the 2 chairs according to the plans, and then modified it for a bench that's 48" (our cushions are 23.5 x 23.5). Worked really well!
Night Stand
My father-in-law and I knocked this project out in about 5 hours including the trip to the lumber yard. You've got a great basic design here! A few modifications we made:
1. I thought the depth of the shelves in the original plan was a little too shallow so I used 3 2"X6"s instead of the 4 2"x4"s. That made the shelves 1 1/2" deeper. Although 2"x6"s are obviously more expensive, the overall cost for the project didn't change much because we only had to use 3 boards per shelf instead of 4. This also reduced the amount of screwing and made it easier to position the shelf boards without taking measurements since we only had one middle board to deal with (instead of 2 with the 2"x4"s). We just eyeballed the spacing of the middle shelf board as we worked.
2. Since our garage has a 10' ceiling, I decided to go 8' tall with the unit. This allowed us to add a 5th shelf.
3. Some oversized tubs can be 18-20" high or more so I varied the height of each shelf -- 24" at the bottom, then 20", 18" and 16". There's approx. 24" available between the top shelf and the ceiling.
4. Due to the position of the garage door track, I had to notch out a couple feet at one side. The end support piece is only 6' high.
5. Since many storage tubs can be 16-18" wide, I made sure that there was at least 54" between 3 of the vertical support structures. This will allow us to store 3 tubs side-by-side and maximize storage. You might notice that I have two vertical supports that appear to be very close together near the back wall. I did this so I would have something on that side to attach more shelving to on that short wall where the garage door opener is.
The only cuts we had to make for this entire project were for the 18 1/2" 'braces' or support pieces on the vertical ladder structures. The shelves are either 14' or 12' (top shelf only) and the vertical 2"x4"s are either 8' or 6'. Most lumber yards will carry these lengths in either 2"x4"s or 2"x6"s.
We didn't use any wood glue, and I admit this may come back to haunt me. However, to get a good fit and eliminate gaps, I used clamps I already owned to squeeze the boards together before adding the screws. Everything feels very solid and sturdy to me.
Because of the extra height compared with the original plan, I was worried about it possibly tipping over (we have a 10-year-old who likes to climb 
) so I made sure that 3 of the supports are lined up with the wall studs. After leveling the entire unit, I plan to anchor it to the wall using 3 1/2" screws.
So for about $187 in lumber and maybe $20 in construction screws, I've got 76 feet of STURDY shelving that should accommodate hundreds of pounds! Not a bad investment at all...
We built our greenhouse a couple years ago and I absolutely love it! We just recently ran electricity to it so I can use heat mats and get an earlier start on my seeds!
Kristin Golden @goldenacresgirl
We were looking for outdoor furniture for our deck, and for the size and amount we needed it would have cost us at least $2000. We really like the idea of having an outdoor sectional that we can also use for dining, and we had trouble finding a set we liked. We found Ana's plans for the 2x4 Outdoor Sectional, and i loved the look. After seeing what others have done with the plans, I thought I would be able to modify it to get everything we needed for much less cost than buying a set.
We ended up extending the size of the 2x4 outdoor sofa by one 24" section, for a total length of 96". I then used the same design to make two outdoor chairs, just reduced the length to 24". I modified the 2x4 outdoor coffee table plans to create two ottoman's that can be moved around to make the seating more lounge style Finally, I modified the coffee table plans to make a 5 foot outdoor dining table. All in all, it took about a week and I couldn't be happier with how it turned out!
Mon, 08/02/2021 - 09:44
Looks amazing! What method did you use (pocket holes, dowels, deck screws, etc) to join the visible portions like the arms?
Basically I took Ana's plan and tweaked it to create a diy sofa, a love seat, and a corner piece to make a sectional. All 3 pieces have the same basic design and function (they all have a storage compartment), although the corner piece, because of its placement and the thickness of the seating cushions, doesn't open unless the couch is opened first. We purchased custom cut, 6" thick foam cushions for the seats (we bought the XL-38 foam from https://www.buyfoam.com/, but if we had to do it again, we'd go with the XL-28 as the 38 is VERY firm). We also used upholstery fabric instead of a paint drop-cloth to cover the couches. The foam and upholstery fabric upped the overall cost significantly. Other changes from Ana's plan, I used 15/32" OSB because the 1/4" plywood just felt too flimsy (I'm a large guy). I also added I bolts to the underside of the seat before the foam and upholstery so I could add a stress relief rope to prevent the kids from opening the top and dropping it and ripping out the hinges. I used piano hinges as they seemed to me to provide the most support. Finally, I ended up using 1x2s for the base trim since I couldn't find any 2x2s that were straight and finish-ready, then I added router detailing to provide some visual interest. I used 3" pieces of 4x6 for the feet and added matching router detail. Additionally, I used T-Nuts and bolts to make the feet and base trim completely removable.
Mon, 08/17/2020 - 07:46
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I have been dreaming about building so many things featured on this website, and I finally buckled down and built something. I figured that an outside garden shed would be a bit more forgiving than a project requiring a bit more precision, and from the picture, you can see that it's not perfect! I'm still working on trimming the shingles and I still have to stain/seal it. I've got to admit, when I first picked up the wood for the project at the store, I wondered what I had gotten myself into. But I just jumped in, and here it is.
Thu, 10/11/2012 - 10:45
What a perfect spot for it as well! Really good job with your first project.
We live in the south so we opted for treated wood. We weren’t able to locate all the connectors to combine sink sprayer and water hose so we ended up just getting another garden hose and sprayer. Works just as well. We used Smokey Mirror exterior stain to add some color. Didn’t have all the tools handy so we opted for a farm style sink that sits on top of the wood. Kids loving it so far, they have been playing non stop. Thanks for the great plan.
I changed plan to make deeper. I also modified the bottom trim and top. I put a ball bearing soft door drawer guide on modern door so it can slide back and forth. I feel we need more modern plans on here but with a bit of creativity and using plans you can make anything. I have never built anything before. I love General Finishes Milk Paint in Snow White and I brushed rolled it on (sanded between 3 coats). It’s basically self leveling and leaves a nice matte finish. Used door glide in picture bought from homedepot in the 24 inch and that’s how wide door was and it was 36” tall. Door glide I only used one on top of the door not on bottom as well. Door piece of fiberboard with just strips glued on and quarters spacing them correct.
Base was made from recycled timber and the top was made with new pine.
The rails were made from curtain rails.
One end has wheels for easy moving.
In reply to Amazing! I love the two tone by Ana White
Thu, 09/07/2017 - 05:50
Thank you :)
Sun, 08/11/2019 - 22:41
Hi,
All of the base was made from free pallet Wood and the timber top was one line length of new timber which cost about $8 and the wheels I had in the shed and the curtain rail was a couple of dollars from Bunnings. The paint and stain I already had.
I hope this helps. 😀
Thank you Ana for you Fireplace design as it was exactly what I needed! We’ve lived in our house for 3 years now and I’ve wanted a fireplace ever since. Your plan was perfect and with a few modifications I made it come to life. My 9yr daughter as I was almost done building thought there should be a shelf for books and movies below the fire place. It gave me the idea of adding storage on the sides. I had already had the idea of the mantle storage and just used a floating shelf idea and made that. This was a lot of fun!! It took me a little over a week to build. But can’t wait to build something else for our house… like the mudroom!
Amy
Thu, 12/01/2022 - 16:07
Oh my goodness, you knocked this one out of the park! Amazing job, thank you for sharing.
Sun, 01/08/2023 - 19:02
That looks awesome! My husband and I are planning on doing this as well. I do have a question, as I see you have carpet just like us. Did you cut out the carpet where you built out, and if so how did you go about that, or did you just build on top of it?
I've finished my swing but my porch don't have enough clearance so I built A frame stand for it.
Fri, 03/02/2012 - 07:09
You did such a great job on your swing! I hope I can build up to making one someday.
In reply to I love this swing! by beachmama79
Thu, 05/10/2012 - 14:02
Thanks and you will. I just added the dimensions in case
Fri, 04/19/2013 - 15:37
I love the idea of adding the A-frame considering that where i live there are no real trees to hang it on and building a porch where one doesn't already exist is a pain in the butt! Lol. How wide do you think we could go before it starts compromising the frames integrity? And how much weight can it hold?
I modified this chair with 2x4's as the base and 2x2 for decoration on arms, this is prior to sanding and finishing
