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This dollhouse was super easy to make! Harper (the doll) wanted an open concept living/kitchen, and that is the first floor. Second floor are the bedroom and bathroom. Top floor is the closet. The roof is made from 3.5" slats of luan glued together and painted with black sanded paint. Notice the baseboards and crown molding? My granddaughter helped cut windows out with a jig saw. I still owe my granddaughter a garage and patio with pergola, and kitchen appliances and chairs, but that will wait until summer when she can help craft/build them. 

Harper's bed is modeled after the farmhouse bed plans available on this site, but I used smaller scrap lumber. I wanted milk paint but was unwilling to pay the high price, so I bought a sample jar of antique ivory paint and watered it down. It turned out great!

This was our first major project, so we learned a lot while we were doing it. We painted our bed white, and rather than using metal bed rails (which no one seemed to sell), we improvised and fastened 2x4s to the inside of our side rails. Then we cut slats to rest on the 2x4s and run the width of the bed. The 2x4s lend great stability to the side rails, and are much less costly, not to mention easier to obtain. ($10 vs. $75) This bed is sturdy and solid. I think we will be handing it down to our grandchildren in fifty years!

I have added a few things to make this workbench comprehensive. I added a paper towel holder, go Jo holder, cord hooks, electric bar,  and I enclosed the sides and put a door on the front and a hinged pegboard on the back which makes it able for me to store all of my tools and lock them up.

I followed Anna's incredibly easy to follow plans pretty darn closely. I used Cherry for 90% of the bed and the cross-boards on the headboard and footboard are poplar. I used lumber that I had been holding on to for some time and purchased construction-grade lumber for the frame. Anna's plans allowed me to bring to fruition my dream to build my own bed. This was the largest project I'd built to date, and I was incredibly happy with the outcome. For a mattress I ordered foam from http://www.mattressbymail.com/ I ordered 5" of high quality foam and 4" of the 5lb viscomax memory foam and it is the most comfortable bed I've ever slept in for

This Rekourt dining table was a slightly more complicated build as it involved planning for removable extensions. I finished the base using a slightly off-white milk paint from Homestead House Paint Company (Canadian) with a distressed finish.

The tabletop was stained using a process of Orange Pekoe Tea solution, followed Steel Wool and White Vinegar solution, stained with Minwax's Dark Walnut stain and finished with an oil-based satin polyurethane from Varathane (Canadian subsidiary of Rust-Oleum).

To achieve the distressed and antiqued look on the base, I first applied stain on the edges of the base and on some middle parts where I knew I would sand down.  I then applied vaseline on certain spots that I had stained which created a beautiful effect of crackling paint. I then painted the entire base using VOC-free milk paint from the Homestead House Paint Company.  I even went over the vaseline spots. As soon as the paint dried, the spots that had vaseline, you could immediately notice that the paint had not adhered to the wood and it started cracking which made these wood pieces appear old and weathered.

For the extensions, I carefully cut out two openings on the first leg braces that touch the bottom of the tabletop.  These were JUST wide enough to allow two 2x4's to slide in and out with a bit of force, but without being too tight.  I made sure I left enough space for when the wood would expand.  The extensions are basically two 2x4's support pieces with a two 10" board planked together for addition breadboards. I used the same width of boards as the breadboards to maintain a consistent look.  I painted the support pieces white to contrast with the tabletop and to match the base.

I really enjoyed this one as it challenged me to modify the plan and come up with my own solutions/designs.
 

To see my other projects, make sure to visit my facebook page (only after you have spent enough time on Ana's site!)
www.facebook.com/simplyrustik

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Couldn't be happier with how this turned out! I was going for a rustic look so I beat up and scratched up all my boards before staining. I built with pine. I used walnut stain, then rubbed on a thin layer of black paint to achieve the color.

I tried a few combinations of paint and stain with scrap, then let my wife choose which color combo she loved best!

Our baby's turning 3 and is ready for a twin bed, having slept in a toddler version since 18mo... but we just HAD to build this adorable canopy toddler bed for her while she can still use it. We added a small window box that had been above her previous bed to the footboard, she stores her stuffed animals/bedtime books in there. Just need to pick out new sheets and fabric for the canopy :) Both she and the puppy love it, Thanks Ana!!

I built this in my spare time over a couple weeks.  I am really happy with the results.  It was easier to build than I expected, considering this was my first builf that has a drawer. I am wanting to build the storage bed, and I am trying to get a few practices in with drawer making first.  We draw names for Christmas in my husbands family and I drew the name of a wine lover.  I hope she likes it!

After painting this bench, I customized it by adding the child's name, as well as some other art to it using black acrylic paint.  Turned out awesome!

My husband and I needed a small bench for our long hallway. This plan was perfect! Somehow though we bought extra wood, I followed the shopping list exactly. Took about an hour to cut and put together. Painted it a matte black and sanded edges to looked distressed, and then 1 coat of polycyrlic. Cost about 15.00 to make.

Made in South Africa. Have a cutting list which takes into account our timber lengths.    I made it on my own on my dining room table. I did the tops and then transported it in a flat pack in my car to the farm (4 hour drive) and completed the assembly and placement there. I painted it with wood preservative before I started to ensure that it was all coated. As we were placing it on a covered veranda I stapled 100 micron black plastic to the base. It is perfect for outside as the lid ensures that all animals and other creatures are kept out of the sand. I used washed sand for the box as the kids using it are toddlers and it is a good idea to include bulk coarse salt to keep creepy crawlies out.

It is perfect for mommies to sit with their toddlers as the seats are a comfortable height!

I added black accent brackets to this project to give it a more unique feel. Love it!

I built this using the plans in the book, which are basically the same as the older plans linked here. I did not intend to build a nearly identical set to the one in the book, but that's basically how it turned out.

Modifications:

I used a 1x12 (plan calls for 1x10) for the shelves in both the sink and oven and ripped it down by 3/4" making it 10.5" in width. This allows the oven door to rest against the shelf when closed. It also allowed me to attach a magnetic clasp to one side to keep the door closed.

I also used a router table to make a rabbet around the inside opening of the oven door so that the plastic sits flush to the door surface.

We built this bed for my three and a half year old son and gave it to him for Christmas. He and also my almost two year old daughter LOVE it! We did modify the plans a little: we added a handle for getting into the bed from the stairs and also added more slats for support. 

Using the daybed plan I modified the beds to hang supported by two walls. I mounted the bed to the wall into the studs using 5/16 GRK Rugged Structural Screws, and also used structural screws to attach all the framing supports. I originally tried to hang the unsupported side with rope from a lag thread screw eye in the wall stud and a lag eye bolt in the bed frame, but the rope had too much stretch and would not adequately hold the corner (as the rope stretched the weight on the corner pulled on the 2x4 wall support at an odd angle that would probably eventually break the frame). So, I found stainless steel uncoated wire rope, with the appropriate fasteners, and that seemed to hold well with less give on the corner. I was still a little uncomfortable with the amount of force pulling on the 2x4 center supports at the 2x4 wall brace so I also added 2x4 joist hangers on the center supports. The corner still moves slightly when I hang on it (I'm about 110lbs), but I have no doubt the bed will support the weight of my kids without issue. My 200lb husband got on it without any problems. The beds are straight forward  and cost-effective to make, you just have to be sure you mount them safely. Also, a tip for those of you planning on mounting the beds to a wall, mount the frame first and then screw on the decking boards...so much lighter and easier to work with that way!!