King Headboard
Super easy and quick project! If you buy the select pine from home depot- it is a piece of cake to build. No sanding!
Super easy and quick project! If you buy the select pine from home depot- it is a piece of cake to build. No sanding!
I built these floating shelves to put in my kiddo's bathroom. They come together easily and add a ton of charm to his bathroom! These are a great beginner project.
All pocket hole joinery
Base is painted shade of white
Top is dark walnut
My husband and I took the Narrow Farmhouse Table and modified it for a school table for our children. We used two old doors we had left over from remodeling our 1925 craftsman home. One door is the top, and the rest is lumber culled from the other door. A fun, free, one-day project.
Sat, 07/16/2011 - 08:17
Did you put a glass top on this to make a flat surface? I was thinking that the recess in the center would make a good place for displaying artwork, etc. under glass.
In reply to Did you put a glass top on by Pam the Goatherd
Sat, 07/16/2011 - 13:24
Yes, the kids will be using the table for school, so we needed a flat surface. The inset from the door will have all kinds of fun things placed in it throughout the year!
My husband tackled the Fancy Farmhouse Table and finished it in 1 weekend and it looks amazing! I could not be more thrilled with the outcome.
This was a pretty easy build! I changed the plans a little bit by adding ventalation holes and the way the cubbies conntect. I wanted to be able to easily take apart the bed if I need to so I built a track system that the middle support sits on and locks in place.
I made this for a friend who has two little ones that are less than two years old. Although I enjoy the ease and convenience of the Kreg jig, I wanted to try something more difficult for this. So for the sides I used mortise and tenon joinery for the ladder rungs and top arches. The only screw I used we to place the hinges and attach the feet. I also didn’t like the gap in the platform that would have been caused by my 1x8 actually only being 7.5 in wide, so I made my own platform by joining the edges of two pieces of wood (one was 11 inches and the other was 6 inches wide). After clamping and lettting the glue dry, I trimmed up the platform to size. Due to the modifications the project took well over 20 hours, but was a fun challenge.
Hi Ana and Family,
I mostly followed your plans for my remote Alaska property outhouse build, with slight modifications. Our property is 7 miles from any road (and 2.5 hr drive from Anchorage) and I typically go there in the winter via snowmobile (December-April). I built this on my back deck in Anchorage and then took it apart and transported it in sections (back wall, 2x sidewalls, floor parts, door, roof parts, seat parts). It took me 5 trips to get it all up to my property from the truck at the trailhead via snowmobile!
The hardest part was digging the hole under 5 ft of snow! I cut several dead spruce trees in the area I planned to situate the outhouse and started a big fire (really big). We kept that going until we had melted out about a 15ft wide area down to bare soil. The next morning, while the ground was still warm from the previous evening's fire, we dug the hole (only about 3.5x3.5ft). Then I cribbed in the hole with old cedar fence slats to help prevent the inevitable ground cave-in that we often see with soil melt and rains in Alaska. Then, I pieced the outhouse together, with the frame sitting on small pavers.
I used a combo of T&G pine and cedar for the walls. I used metal for the roof. As I built this in January and February over several weekends (in Alaska), it was very cold and I would take the pieces inside and paint/stain them. As such, this basically took me all winter from start to finish. It doesn't take that long if you build it on site in warm weather. Once transported to the cabin site, it took parts of 3 weekends to get it in place and useable, including site prep. I've still got a little touch-up work to do (e.g., window for light in winter and bird block to keep the spring and summer nesters out). I put some anti-slip tape on the frame so that I don't slip on the frame base.
There is some waste wood if you follow the plans directly (especially 2x6), but I am using that to build a small firewood cover at home. This was not an inexpensive outhouse even without pandemic prices (I could have chosen a less expensive siding), but I wanted a nice outhouse and I'm very pleased with the outcome, so it was money well spent. Great plans! Thanks.
Tue, 06/07/2022 - 15:29
Snow always makes everything more challenging! Thank you for sharing, this looks great:)
Built this a little smaller - only 15" deep and 42" wide for use behind the couch with multiple functions - laptop desk, dining room buffet table, and behind-the-couch-set-things-on table. Love it!
Tricky parts - the drawers. Because I changed the dimensions, I built the drawer box to fit my new dimensions and installed it. Then, I cut the sides of my drawers 10" deep (the smallest drawer slides I could find and a perfect fit). I laid the Hettich ball bearing drawer slides (from my local lumber and cabinet supplier, not big box) in the drawer box and trimmed down my drawer front/back until they fit nicely. If you're interested, it was 15 1/8" wide.
Nail gun is a must on this project!!! And remember to glue and use 2" nails.
I used the Kreg jig to build my drawers because I'm familiar with building drawers that way and feel comfortable getting them squared. I highly recommend the Kreg jig!
Then, I attacked it with my orbital sander until it was nice and smooth.
Love Ana's great patterns!
Sat, 06/22/2013 - 13:34
I've been looking for a post with dimensions more similar to my sketch and found yours. Thanks! I must say that I'm a bit puzzled with how to attack my drawers. My table's dimensions being 44Lx16D. I am in desperate need of a comp table to fit along a short wall, but need it to be functional, hence the need for drawers. Were your drawer dimensions limited to the length of the drawer slides you found? If possible, I'd like my drawers deeper. However, I'm open to one longer, less complicated, drawer as well, lol. I'm curious. Help!
After living in the basement with our young children for the first few years after moving into our new home, we were ready to claim the master bedroom on the main level. We made it a winter project and re-did the whole room (good-bye lavender walls). We made the headboard from Ana's "Reclaimed Headboard" plans and one of the night stands from the "Kentwood Nightstand" plans! We love the final look and saved ourselves a TON of cash in the process.
My wife was needing some extra storage in the garage for seasonal decor totes.
So, of course, I first go to Ana White's website. Voila, I found the perfect plans for the space I had to work with.
- The final product ended up being 72"Hx54"Lx21"W
- I used a counter sink bit to pre-drill screw holes so the heads would be slightly below the surface of the boards. This way the totes would not get caught on or damaged by the screws.
Built by Toni Wood, more photos here: https://www.instagram.com/p/Bo2V-b5gvxt/?taken-by=woodworkbytoniwood
Built this from the plans and customized so it was a finer finish. No pocket holes, went with dowels and glue. Some screws in base for added strength.
We built this corner cabinet shelf in three days (only because it is over 100 degrees here, so we had to wait until 9:00 at night to work on it) for our office space. We love, love, love it and can't believe how nice my corner cabinet turned out. Only our second building project ever. :)
Mon, 07/25/2011 - 12:45
I love this!!! I want one in my kitchen. I wonder if I could mount it so it doesn't interfere with my baseboard heater?
Wed, 09/07/2011 - 17:40
How did you do this, do you have directions? I love it!
Mon, 01/21/2013 - 16:08
Do you have plans for this project? I'd love to try my hand at this.
Sun, 03/20/2016 - 07:47
Couldn't find the pdf but a printable version of complete building instructions are available via archive.org.... Thank you Wayback Machine! :)
https://web.archive.org/web/20120803002423/http://ana-white.com/print/5…
Tue, 08/02/2016 - 14:54
I do cedar. Thank you very much for the drawings. This site is to become one of my favorites.
Greetings from Xalapa Veracruz Mexico
This Adirondack chair was done in pine. I followed Ana's plan, with only one modification ... went with a wider armrest. I thought the wider armrest would be handy for resting a drink.
There were a few of these floating around pinterest so I just looked at a few pictures and kinda winged it. It is made almost just like Jamie’s except I used additional 2x2’s as you can see in the pics… I needed something to thread the bungee cords through. I tied them off on the top and bottom. I ordered a roll of pink bungee cord off of amazon. This is actually two years old as you can see from how much it has filled up. I also went back and added additional rows of bungee cord between all the others as stuffed animals were falling out. Again, I winged it. Having plans will make this build much easier!!
Wed, 10/02/2019 - 06:37
Sorry its so late... I just saw your comment. the 2x2's were furring strips that were untreated. I used dimensional lumber for the 1x3's
I'm a student at a local votech. Built this for a neighbor.
Our kitchen table buggered out so I decided to give making one a try. This was my first project. With seriously low funds available- I asked around to family for scrap lumber. Turns out the old lumber in the barn was black walnut! I had to plane and join it by hand so it took quite a bit longer to make.
I made the table one foot shorter and one foot wider. It seats 6 comfortably on the sides. Thank you so much for the plans!
My husband and I bought our California king Sleep Number bed several years after we bought our solid wood bedroom furniture and it was too big to use with the bed that came with our dressers. After our most recent move, I decided I would have to finally part with the dressers in order to have a bedroom set that matches, which was hard because I love the simple, classic style of the dressers. Then I found this site and the plans for the Cassidy bed.
To make the Cassidy bed work for us, I extended height of the side rails and footboard to the floor so that our little dog could not hide under the bed when it was time for her to go into her kennel. That means I had to buy two sheets of plywood, one for the headboard to be cut from and one for the footboard to be cut from, and I bought 1x16s instead of 1x12s for the side rails. I also adapted the entire dimensions of the bed so that it fits around the plastic platform of our Sleep number bed, so we did not need to use the 2x4 slats. In fact, we did not use any of the 2x4s in the plan. The side rails are hung on the scrap lengths of the plywood. Finally, we did not decorate the headboard with door shims.
In the end, the bed is incredibly solid and beautiful. Afterword, I finished it to match our dressers, which I had stripped, as well.
Fri, 10/04/2013 - 08:02
Your bed looks great. We also have a sleep number bed and I was trying to decide if I wanted to still use the base or not. Thanks for posting.
I built this saw several years ago using plans i got on the internet. At the time I needed a way to easily breakdown full sheets by myself. It is extremely accurate and easy to use. With the removeable wings attached it opens up to over 12'. It easily collapses for storage. I would reccommend this to anyone who does not have the room for a professional quality cabinet saw. It took me about a weekend to build. All parts were readily available at my local homecenter and hardware store. I since have gotten a cabinet saw and a tracksaw so sadly this saw now sits in a corner of my shop.
I needed an entry table and when I saw this plan for a bedside table I knew with just a couple of size modifications it would be perfect for me. It is a little taller and wider that Ana's plans, but other than that is true to her design. Couldn't be happier with the new table!