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Night Tables

Submitted by Aisha on Fri, 07/20/2012 - 09:40

I used the plans for the Reclaimed Wood bedside tables but I didn't want to make all those drawers (being a beginner) so I settled on one. It took me fairly long to complete but really it should have been only a weekend project. I love the way they turned out.

Built from Plan(s)
Reclaimed Wood Look Bedside Table
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
One coat each of Varathane's Early American followed by Red Mahogony. Two coats of poly.
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

Debi_G (not verified)

Fri, 07/20/2012 - 20:16

I too fear drawers.
Your bedside tables have turned out beautifully!

Washer & Dryer Pedestal / Platform with Drawers

Submitted by dmccoy on Tue, 03/12/2013 - 10:26

Platform (Pedestal) with Drawers for front-loader Washer & Dryer. Cheaper than buying the manufacturer's plastic pedestals and more fun to build anyway! The drawers are also much wider and deeper than the manufacturer's pedestals. We can usually fit about 3 full loads of laundry in each drawer. (That's 6 loads of laundry before we have to start folding!) It's a very easy and basic DIY project. I made a 2nd one for my brother using these plans (sans the drawers). I gotta say, the drawers are SO nice to have though. But you could just leave the front open, without drawers, and slide some laundry baskets underneath for an even quicker project. We've been using this platform now for over 2 years and there is still no squeaking or rattling. The washer & dryer haven't moved from the vibration even in the slightest. They're exactly where I placed them on the pedestal 2 years ago. There's also zero problem with the weight of the washer either...it really is a strong frame. (After finishing, I jumped up and down on it!) A couple small tweaks I would make doing it over is raising the drawers a 1/2" in. off the floor to tuck a rug underneath (as is, they sit about 1/8" in. off the floor). Also, I would cut out a couple of square holes in the back panel to access those socks that fall behind (I can't access the sides of my W&D in our particular laundry room). Lastly, I would have painted with a quality paint (I just used a few cans of white spray paint to be quicker). Step-by-Step Plans and Materials List (PDF) and many more photos found at the Blog Link below...I'm certainly no professional "Plans Writer" so email if you have questions! Happy DIY-ing! Estimated Cost: ~$200 (2x6 lumber, plywood, drawer trim, nails, screws, paint)

Blog Link
Washer & Dryer Pedestal (with Drawers)
Built from Plan(s)
Farmhouse Washer Dryer Pedestals Bases
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
White spray paint
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

nikolegraves@h…

Wed, 03/13/2013 - 10:12

I have wanted to do the pedestal project for quite a while. I am so glad I held off though. Yours are fantastic! I would never have thought of drawers to hide the dirty laundry! Love it!

gmccoy20

Tue, 04/02/2013 - 11:06

Really appreciate the help with mine brotha! We really like them (even without the drawers) and are glad you had these plans to go off of for ours.

I'll be calling you for our next project!

strahmers8

Fri, 02/07/2014 - 17:05

Hello this looks great and for the amateur carpenter I am but one item I need clarified "the top measurement at 64" is .25" greater than the bottom at 63.75"

Please explain if I am missing something
Thanks

dwm22

Mon, 02/10/2014 - 15:33

Not sure what measurement you mean that's 63.75" since there's no "bottom" to the pedestals. Or do you mean 1/4" wider than the sides? The top panel should overhang both sides by 1/4" each so that when the side plywood is attached, it will be flush. Hopefully that helps? (If I'm understanding the question correctly)

jmkc

Mon, 02/24/2014 - 10:29

Could leave the back panel of plywood out so you could reach what may fall behind? Then you would just have to pull the drawers out?

heverest

Wed, 06/22/2016 - 16:35

Back panel is very very structural and provides lot of strength. If i wanted more access than the 5-7 inch of duct space behind the pedestal gives me, then i would replace the back panel with a long 2x6, that holds the three legs from going in different directions due to all that weight.

dmccoy

Mon, 12/12/2016 - 14:58

This is the one modification I could make if i could redo these plans...I would still put on the back panel of plywood as it stabilizes the pedestal, I would just have cut out a rectangle (behind each drawer) so that I could remove the drawers and stick my hand/arm through to grab fallen clothes or vacuum the lint.

dachiri

Mon, 12/18/2017 - 19:17

Rather than cut holes in the back, I just cut the back and side boards a little small and left a gap around the bottom the whole way around.  That way I can get a vaccuum hose in there or reach through and get lost items.  Because my washer and dryer seem to be deeper than yours (I needed at least 33" depth, so I went with 3'), that also worked out well in getting the most out of the boards.  I could do the top, back, and sides out of one single sheet of good 3/4" plywood just leaving those small gaps at the bottom for clean-up and retreival.

Jperera

Fri, 11/20/2015 - 05:23

Hello,

I downloaded the pdf but have exactly the same information that the website html, where can I find a solution step by step guide?

Thank you for all the interesting posts.

Foldable Farmhouse Table 2

I recently published my first foldable farmhouse table last week here: http://ana-white.com/2013/06/foldable-farmhouse-table The first one I made was very heavy because I used 2x6 tops and 4x4 legs. I decided to make another one that would be lighter and easier to transport. The plans are basically the same just instead I used 1x6 for the top and put 2x4s together for the legs. I also shorted the length by about a foot. The only issue with making the table shorter length is that the legs don't fold completely flush. You could easily make the legs short enough to fold flush, but then the table was a little too short from the ground up for us. The same as before I simply used kreg joints to join the top boards together. I then made a 2x4 frame and attached it to the bottom. I made each of the legs separately by joining 2x4s together and sanding everything down. Everything was stained before putting the legs on using Miniwax Dark walnut stain. I used 2 coats of Miniwax water based clear coat to seal it. A notch was cut out on each of the bottom 2x4 supports on the legs and I glued in a small piece of wood cut to size. These are so I can put in a 2x4 support board under the table so that the legs do not fold in on themselves when it is standing up. The legs are just attached using door hinges you can buy in packs in the hardware section. Be careful when screwing into the 1x6 top not to use too long of screws or else you will over screw and have them come through into your table top. Table design was by Amber Veatch Designs and photographed by Andi Mans Photography

Blog Link
More pictures
Built from Plan(s)
Farmhouse Table - No Pocket Holes Plan
Farmhouse Table - Updated Pocket Hole Plans
Estimated Cost
120.00
Estimated Time Investment
Day Project (6-9 Hours)
Finish Used
Sand to finish and then used Miniax dark walnut stain followed by Miniwax water based clear coat.
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

Freddyflis

Tue, 07/07/2015 - 06:41

We have built something very similar and we have a good bit of wobble at the top, even though the stretcher down the center of the table is holding solid in there and secred with clasps. Were thinking of some sort of sliding pin into the top of the leg to the apron. Anyone run into this before?

Seasonal And Holiday
Summer

Laundry Dresser

Submitted by biffnderf on Sat, 07/02/2011 - 23:08

We had a very limited area for these to fit, so my hubby had to change the dimensions to fit these square baskets. We needed enough spots for our family of 10! I LOVE THEM, thanks; Ana!

Blog Link
Laundry Basket Dresser
Built from Plan(s)
Laundry Basket Dresser
Estimated Cost
$50 each
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Finish Used
Water based paint
Recommended Skill Level
Starter Project

Comments

Guest (not verified)

Wed, 01/11/2012 - 14:53

We are going to have to turn the baskets the same way due to the space in out laundry room. Do you happen to remember the dimensions of them? Thanks.

Guest (not verified)

Thu, 02/09/2012 - 07:08

Do you have the dimensions for the square baskets? These would work much better in my home.

Guest (not verified)

Tue, 02/14/2012 - 16:42

We did something similar when our family was 8 (6 foster children). We bought 4 baskets (2 people per room) and then just had them on regular shelves. I LOVE the look of these! Unfortunately baskets give out over time and I can't ever seem to find baskets that once again are the same size as previous baskets. Did you order the baskets on-line someplace that you can consistenly get the same size for when the baskets wear out?

Guest (not verified)

Wed, 02/22/2012 - 12:35

I have all the same laundry baskets that I bought at wal mart for like 3 or 4 bucks a piece. I would think that just meausring out the size according to the laundry baskets would work out fine! they have never stopped selling the ones that I buy, i find them at every wal mart I go to

Lindy Holcomb (not verified)

Fri, 03/02/2012 - 06:05

I would love the Dimensions for this shelf.

Lindy Holcomb (not verified)

Fri, 03/02/2012 - 06:19

I would love the Dimensions on this shelf.

Guest (not verified)

Thu, 03/08/2012 - 05:13

Seriously? $50 for these plans. Get real. Fine woodworking plans don't cost this much. Take some wood, make a box, and put slats in it to fit the baskets. The entire set wouldn't cost $50!

davidmac (not verified)

Thu, 03/08/2012 - 06:18

The plans are free. The build costs $50. See the plans on the link above the cost.

christine (not verified)

Sat, 03/17/2012 - 20:54

once again can anyone please give the measurements for this square basket design and the basket model number as well. i am very challenged when it comes to building things, but with the idea of home depot doing the cutting i think i could manage if i had the measurements. i need the square size to work for my space though. thanks in advance.

Guest (not verified)

Sun, 04/01/2012 - 09:18

I have tried clicking on the link above the cost to get the Plans...however it brings me back to the ORIGINAL Plan rather than YOUR plan (skinnier and taller)...Im sorry if I am being dense but I would really love to get the dimensions of YOUR plan but am having trouble accessing them?? Help please!!

Guest (not verified)

Fri, 04/13/2012 - 23:27

Where it says PS there is a link to the other dimensions.

Cari Downing (not verified)

Fri, 04/20/2012 - 14:05

If you use the large wire baskets made by elfa they would not break like the plastic. The initial investment would be more but would save money over time.

Sonya Chapin

Tue, 07/24/2012 - 04:34

Easy and awesome! My teenage children and I made these over the week-end! Super easy and great looking! Our first project was the laundry pedestal and these are a great compliment. We let Home Depot cut the wood due to time restraints and assembly was a snap! Thanks for the great family projects. My husband passed away in April and these projects have really helped us in the healing process (excellent for constructive bonding time).! Thanks again

King Farm House Bed

My husband designed this after the farm house bed. I wanted panels on the head board and foot board to "dress it up a bit" and storage drawers. He did a wonderful job. I don't think I have ever had a more prized piece of furniture. Now to find some tall night stands.

Built from Plan(s)
Farmhouse Bed (California King Size)
Farmhouse Storage Bed with Drawers (Queen)
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Off white oil based semi gloss paint
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

vanash2012

Wed, 09/23/2015 - 11:54

Any chance you or your husband would share the adjusted plans to include the storage under mattress?

Thank you so much! love your site and your work!

vanessalust

Thu, 01/21/2016 - 21:52

Hi Ana! 

I was wondering if you had the plans available for this bed with the drawers underneath and the head and foot board ? 

 

:) thank you!

vanessa

nateleejohnson

Fri, 02/10/2017 - 05:27

What a beautiful bed.  Like others I was looking for the plans for the headboard and drawers.  Are they available?

Thanks,

 

Nate

danthony313

Sun, 12/17/2017 - 16:03

the wife loves this design but are there plans for the whole thing yet?

Tacoma9596

Wed, 09/25/2019 - 10:40

Ana,

   Can you provide plans with pics for this bed?   My wife wants it and I got tasked with doing it.

My laundry basket dresser with doors

Submitted by jensimmons on Sun, 07/03/2011 - 20:19

I wanted to use our laundry basket dresser as a collector for dirty laundry in our bathroom, and wanted it to have doors so it would blend in better. I also made the shelf above for our towels. It is painted white with a faux-zinc finish on the top. I made the top slightly larger so it would overhang and added cute little bun feet. My talented friend Carli helped me build the doors (and by helped I mean I handed her things while she impressed me with all her tools and skills!) and frame.

Built from Plan(s)
Laundry Basket Dresser
Estimated Cost
$75-100 (can't remember exactly)
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
white semi-gloss paint, zinc faux finish: layer 1 dark charcoal paint, layer 2 dark pewter metallic glaze, layer 3 white paint thinned with water & rubbed on/off.
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

Guest (not verified)

Fri, 07/29/2011 - 23:37

this is perfect! i totally need a bunch just like this! I love the added doors!

Pam in Colorado (not verified)

Sat, 09/17/2011 - 12:48

This is the look I'd like, fit the baskets and hide them behind doors until you are ready to do the laundry. These could be made for bedrooms, bathrooms, toy rooms (okay, toys instead of dirty laundry)...

Guest (not verified)

Fri, 11/11/2011 - 08:05

I absolutely love this! Could you please add instructions on how to make/paint and install the doors? I am a newbie to making my own furniture. Thanks!

Guest (not verified)

Wed, 01/11/2012 - 08:29

I love this idea! I will have a new bathroom soon and I think this will get used! What are the dimensions, or what style cabinet would you suggest to look for? TIA!

Jennifer Simmons (not verified)

Fri, 02/17/2012 - 05:57

The dimensions are the same as Ana's plan: http://ana-white.com/2010/11/laundry-basket-dresser except that the top is slightly bigger (3/4" overhang on front/sides) to look more like a countertop. On the doors we just made a frame w/ angled pieces, routed a notched line on the back & glued/nailed some beadboard in from the back. Sorry I can't be much more detailed on that, a friend did most of the doors for me!

Guest (not verified)

Sun, 02/19/2012 - 07:42

I actually got the plywood to do this project and I was going to add doors. I looked at the baskets suggested but it seems they would stick out the front. I was just curious, did you use different baskets that would fit inside the cabinet or did you make the cabinet slightly deeper?

Jennifer Simmons (not verified)

Sat, 02/25/2012 - 05:36

Actually I discovered the same problem after it was built. I just didn't put a back on and they stick out a tiny bit in the back. I actually kind of like it that way because it lets some air in (being in the bathroom and putting towels in I could see it getting mildewy without much circulation). But if I had gotten the baskets first I probably would have made it about 2" deeper, then leave some open space, but not all, on the back.

Garage shelves with doors

Submitted by CarolinaL on Thu, 01/11/2018 - 03:59

I have been wanting garage cabinets for a long time but couldn't afford them. When I saw these shelves I knew it would be easy to add side panels and create doors for the sections. The size is 8'x8' with the 4'x3' under the ceiling rack. I put a 2"x4" in the middle to divide each section, measured and cut doors from 5mm lauran plywood. I also cut the stiles and rails from the same material to give it interest but mainly to make it thicker to avoid warping as much as possible. I added 2"x4" to create a facing for the doors to rest on. Also used overlay hinges to simplify the hanging as much as possible. I was able to follow the design plan and the only thing I did was add a shelf at the bottom. The cleats were definitely not necessary, it's very sturdy. 

Making the doors

The first thing is to learn how to measure for cabinet doors. There are plenty of sites and YouTube videos showing how to correctly measure. If you are doing the same type of doors like I have, with no middle divider, then be sure to pay attention how to correctly measure for those instead of a single door.

The easiest way to make the doors will be getting 1/2 in sanded plywood and use a table saw to cut each door to size. Skip the shaker style trim and put the hardware on and be done. Make sure the hinges will be able to hold the weight of the door.

Unfortunately, I didn't have a table saw but I did have a router and a jig saw, and found a great video on YouTube on how to use a router to cut straight edges without a table saw. I measured out one door and used that outline to cut two identical doors. It turned out that each section was slightly a different width so I had to do two at a time. However, if you have a circular saw you can rig it to make a table saw and make a guide to rip the doors. It all depends on what tools you have available to you.  

I have a compact plunge saw and was able to cut the 3 inch strips for the shaker style with it. Honestly, that was the most tedious part and most time consuming by far. That also had to do with the fact that because the plywood is only 5mm thick I cut strips for both the front and the back to make it over 1/2 inch thick to help minimize warping and give the hinges something to grab.  

I used the miter saw to cut the stiles and rails to size and a 23 gauge nailer with 1/2 nails and glue to get them on the door. I glued and nailed the front and the back of each side at the same time because the nails are a bit longer than two pieces of plywood. I then turned it over and nailed the other side. The great thing about using a 23 gauge is that I didn't have to fill any holes because they are so small you can hardly see them at all. 

The last thing is to use your sander to ensure all of the pieces are even. I used a 60 grit and then followed it with a 220 where needed. 

If you want to avoid cutting the strips but still want to have the shaker style, Home Depot sells 1/4 thick Polystyrene flat moulding that will add vertially no weight to the door but the cost can easily add up if you have a lot of doors.

Lastly, if you are wondering why I got such thin plywood that ended up creating more work. The reason is because I wanted to save money on hardware and I didn't trust the inexpensive hinges I got off eBay would hold a heavy door for many years.

 

Built from Plan(s)
BEST DIY Garage Shelves (Attached to Walls)
Estimated Cost
About $300 not including some tools I needed to buy anyway.
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Interior satin
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

DIY Breakfast Nook with Storage

Submitted by jfelker on Wed, 10/23/2013 - 08:54

DIY Breakfast Nook

I completed this project in a weekend, over 2 days. The space was an empty void in the corner of our kitchen, so I decided to fill with a functional seating and eating space.

I first removed the trim from the wall, so I could reuse it on the front of the box later, to make the bench match the rest of the kitchen. One challenge I came across was rerouting the a/c vent through the front of the box so we didn't lose that circulation.

My sister-in-law chipped in to make the cushions and pillows to soften it up. I added the DIY table, and further defined the space with wainscoting and trim.

Blog Link
More Info and Pictures
Built from Plan(s)
Banquette Bench with Flip Up Storage - Customizable Size and Shape
Estimated Cost
$500
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Semi-gloss trim paint was use, to have the ability to clean later after meals, etc.
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

homeideas5099

Wed, 10/23/2013 - 10:10

Looks fantastic. Love how you reused the trim to have the whole unit blend in with the rest of the kitchen. Well done.

PDubs74

Sun, 01/09/2022 - 16:45

Hey there,
Absolutely love your DIY breakfast nook. Unfortunately the additional blog/info link is no longer working as I'm trying to gather more information. Would anyone be able to send the instructions and/or new link?
Thank you

nestikos

Tue, 06/24/2025 - 14:21

I was scrolling through a UK football forum when a lad posted about winning a cheeky sum playing slots. Couldn’t resist having a nosey. Landed on Betti Casino and instantly got dragged in by the mad variety of games. Been smashing the blackjack tables and those reels ever since. Can’t say it’s made me rich, but damn, it's proper entertaining when I’m bored at home.

Poolside Towel Cabinet from Benchmark Cabinet Plan

Submitted by Reader Submission (not verified) on Thu, 03/23/2017 - 11:21

My father and I made this awesome poolside towel cabinet using the Benchmark Cabinet plans. A super easy 1 day build and it looks amazing on the patio. Bring on the pool weather! 

Built from Plan(s)
Benchmark Storage or Media Tower
Estimated Cost
$60
Estimated Time Investment
Day Project (6-9 Hours)
Finish Used
Chalk paint/Poly topcoat
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Farmhouse Table

Submitted by deckroid on Fri, 04/26/2013 - 10:15

My wife and I really love the farmhouse look and feel. We saw one of these tables at a furniture store for $2000 with no chairs. I had already bought the Kreg Tool, something that I cannot believe I have done without for so long, when I went to build some $10 Shelves that Ana has on her site. My wife asked me how hard it would be to build the table and I told her I have never done anything like it. I also told her if she didn't like the end project, we could use it as a picnic table outside. It was fantastically easy with the plans and Kreg Jig. Thanks to Ana for all the helpful tips!

Now to the build. We decided that the table needed to be a bit wider and longer for our needs, so I adjusted the plans. It came out to 90"x48". The center board is a 2x12 with the other 4 being 2x10s. The end pieces are 2x8s that I had from building garden boxes. The benches that I also built were from scrap lumber, they are not pictured here as they need one more coat of stain and then three coats of polycrylic. They are 52" long and go on the ends where the kids can use the cross beam as a foot support.

Building this project was rather quicker than I thought. Of course, borrowing a radial arm saw helped out a bunch with the legs. Once it was all together, I sanded the table three times. I used 80, 150 then 220 grit. The palm sander got a real workout over the space of about a week and a half.

Finishing the project, I decided to follow the plans and went with Minwax Weathered Oak and topped that with Minwax Polycrylic. The legs and underside of the table received 2 coats of each, but the top I gave 3 coats of stain and 2 coats of the Poly with a very light sanding in between each coat.

The table then sat completed in the garage for 3 weeks as I had to find enough help to get it into the house. This is one heavy bugger. If we ever sell the place, it stays! There are ~150 screws and all but 12 of those had pocket holes.

Fantastic build and now I am going to build the farmhouse king size bed. And a murphy bed. And more shelves. And a shoe cubby with coat rack. And a wine rack. And a greenhouse... the list goes on and on...

Built from Plan(s)
Farmhouse Table - Updated Pocket Hole Plans
Estimated Cost
$80 for Lumber
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Minwax Weathered Oak and Minwax Polycrylic
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

Junker Dic

Fri, 04/26/2013 - 14:09

Could you have used heavy duty steel leg braces? These could slipped into saw kerfs on adjacent sides of the apron. Then used hanger bolts to fasten the legs. This would allow the legs to be removed if needed.

deckroid

Fri, 04/26/2013 - 15:09

I thought about making the legs removable, but really, it was much easier this way and very sturdy. I had a lot of fun building this.

Jake

Sat, 04/27/2013 - 18:55

You have just joined the league of addict builders. You really did a great job on this table. Did you get the lumber from big orange or blue and have it jointed? The boards look really good and the fit is tight. Anyway I am sure we will see more of you in the future.

deckroid

Wed, 05/01/2013 - 07:19

Hey everyone!

Thanks for your kind words. The chairs were from our previous table we bought some years ago. I was astounded to find that Ana's plans were the same height as our previous table. Great fit for the chairs.

As for the lumber, I got it from a local building supply company (one of the last, sad to say) and they were only a bit straighter. I got them tight by using clamps. Clamps and LOTS of pocket holes.

George

wjc129

Thu, 05/02/2013 - 18:45

Great Job! Thanks for the extra pictures. I am working up the courage to build the farmhouse queen bed myself. If it works out I might tackle this table, as I like your plans.

goalist

Thu, 08/08/2013 - 11:08

This table looks great and I've decided that its going to be my first project, I just have two questions.

1. What version of the Kreg Jig did you use for the pocket holes?
2. Did you use satin or semi-gloss for the Minwax Polycrylic?

Thanks

amytrz

Wed, 08/26/2015 - 10:53

Hi! You did a wonderful job on this table.  I would like to attempt it but am having trouble figuring out what type of wood to use.  The only wood I could find in the 2x8 and 2x10 dimensions was contruction lumber fir.  Is that right?

Thank you!

deckroid

Fri, 01/01/2016 - 11:03

Sorry about not answering... my wife told me this has been pinned over 17k times on pintrist and that there are still some questions... 

 

I used pine, but fir would be great too.  The lumber dimentions for the top were 2x10s and a single 2x12 for the center piece. 2x8s for the ends.  Really, though, any dimemtion works. Just keep going until you get the size you want.

 

George

Drop Leaf Mobile Kitchen Island

Submitted by jkjackson on Sun, 03/14/2021 - 11:19

This was born out of the need for more counter space in our galley kitchen. We don't have the space to add an island. Especially around the holidays, it would be great to have extra space for making cookies, serving big meals, etc. I used Ana's Small Kitchen Island Prep Cart plans for inspiration. I adapted the dimensions to fit at the end of our counters when not in use and added a drop leaf to give us almost 4 additional feet of butcher block counter top when we need it. I used scrap lumber that I had for the cabinet and had an extra drawer handle that matches our kitchen cabinets but bought the butcher block, locking casters, drawer slide and hardware for the legs. Also, the weight of the butcher block makes it want to tip when it's away from the cabinet with the drop leaf down so I added a lead counter weight inside the drawer.

Blog Link
Kick Can’t to the Curb
Built from Plan(s)
HOW TO: Small Kitchen Island Prep Cart with Compost
Estimated Cost
$150-200
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Behr paint for the cabinet, food grade mineral oil and cutting board wax for the butcher block
Recommended Skill Level
Advanced

Comments

jkjackson

Sat, 07/24/2021 - 16:59

Sure! I used a 4 foot butcher block and cut it down. The horizontal part is 13 1/2" and the drop leaf part is 32 1/8" attached with a piano hinge. The legs need to be cut and hinged to fit when folded up. This one is made so that the drop leaf fits right under the overhang of the kitchen countertop that it is next to so it's snug against the cabinet and not an issue but, if you want it to be freestanding, the weight of the butcher block will pull it over if you don't weight the cabinet down with something as well. I got a 5 pound lead bar from Amazon in case we need to use it somewhere else. I hope that helps! Let me know if you have any other questions.

Bedside End Tables

Submitted by Grace734 on Mon, 02/05/2018 - 07:38

These are made from the three drawer plans but modified the size to meet our needs and used planks for shelves instead of drawers. Painted white and black gel stain. 

 

UPDATE FROM ANA - We have received MANY requests for this plan and have created a plan inspired by this post here.

Shopping List (for ONE bedside table) + Tools

  • 1 - 1x2 @ 6 feet long
  • 5 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 1-1/4" and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4" brad nails
  • wood glue
  • Kreg Jig
  • Compound Miter saw
  • Drill
  • Brad Nailer (18 guage)

Cut List (for ONE bedside table)

  • 4 - 1x2 @ 14" - Side panel trim
  • 8 - 1x4 @ 23-1/4" - Side panels
  • 4 - 2x2 @ 27-1/4" - Legs
  • 6 - 2x2 @ 14" - Shelf support
  • 8 - 1x4 @ 17" - Shelves
  • 5 - 1x4 @ 18" - Top

Cut 1x4s and 1x2s with miter saw. Layout side panel 1x4s as shown above.  Measure and cut 1x2 to length.  Nail the 1x2 to the 1x4s, two nails per overlap with glue.  Make sure your side panels are square.  Build two.

Drill 3/4" pocket holes on inside edge of 1x4 ends as shown above.  Cut 2x2s with compound miter saw. Attach to the 2x2 legs with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Set Kreg Jig to 1-1/2" setting.  Drill 1-1/2" pocket holes on end of each 2x2, one per end.  Attach to 2x2s with wood glue as shown above.

Cut 1x4 shelf boards with compound miter saw.  Nail and glue to the inside of the project as shown above.

Cut 1x4 top boards with compound miter saw.  Nail and glue to top with 1-1/4" nails and wood glue.

If you wish to add a back, measure and cut from 1/4" plywood and attach with 3/4" brad nails.

Built from Plan(s)
Planked Wood Bedside Table with Shelves
Reclaimed Wood Look Bedside Table
Estimated Cost
100.00 for both.
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
One coat of eggshell white PPG
Two coats of ebony gel stain
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

Outdoor sofa and coffee table

Submitted by 14ermom on Thu, 03/05/2020 - 14:27

We LOVE our new patio set!  Total cost of 2 sofas, coffee table and cushions: $530

Cushions B&G Retro Diamonds Deep Seat cushion set purchased from Walmart.

Thanks for sharing the plans!  

Built from Plan(s)
2x4 Outdoor Sofa
2x4 Outdoor Coffee Table
Estimated Cost
175 wood & screws
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Olympic Elite - American Chestnut - semi-transparent
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

Seasonal And Holiday
Spring
Summer

Bench with soft-close drawers for Front Entry

Submitted by drickstan on Tue, 08/11/2020 - 10:43

We needed a bench to fill the space in our front entry and provide some storage for seasonal gear. We couldn't find anything to buy that would work for us, so when my wife found these plans, I had to try it! Couldn't be happier with the results. We widened the bench by a foot to 84" to fill the space. Basically, it just made each drawer 4" wider. Everything else was built to plan. The most expensive thing was the soft-close 24" drawer slides (~$100). As soon as you go above that 24" depth, they get pricier! It was also tricky to get the drawers to catch properly on the soft-close mechanisms, but I made sure to take the time to get it right before closing it all in. Now I just open and close the drawers for the pure satisfaction of it! I used premium pine plywood for the top and I find it still doesn't give that smooth finish I like, even after sanding. I think I'll create a new top out of joined knotty pine planks later and just attach it to the top.

Built from Plan(s)
Mudroom Bench with Easy Drawers
Estimated Cost
$300 CAD
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Primer and pearl finish paint.
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Mini Dresser for Jewelry and keepsakes

Submitted by JoanneS on Tue, 12/20/2011 - 13:32

These little dressers are inspired by Ana's Master Closet System drawers, and the Willy Bookshelf. These were made entirely from scrap wood, so it only cost me for the knobs and the felt for the drawers/bottom. These drawers were sized to fit inside the cubes in my vanity/desk, and to fit the left over wood available from my scrap bin. This took a while to cut everything, but it was fun and didn’t cost me anything but my time. On the top dresser I used some ‘slices’ of lauan for trim, to hide the cut edges and the bit of ‘cup’ on my side pieces (these were re-purposed old shelf boards from the garage). I used my finish nailer and glue for these.

Here’s a shopping and cut list (and a few tips) to make the 4-drawer equivalent (similar to the top one) with standard sized 1x12 lumber, and using 1x2 for drawer front/back/sides and applying 3/16” lauan ply for the bottoms. Haven't figured out how to use sketch up yet, so I can only provide a shopping list, cut list, and finished dimensions, so here goes:

Shopping list: (my 1x12’s are 11.25” wide and .75” thick, and 1x2’s were 1.5” wide, and .75” thick, and lauan is 3/16” thick)

1 pc 1x12x8
2 pc 1x2x8
2 pc 24” x 24” lauan (3/16’ plywood) (you’ll have some left over from the 2nd piece)
Felt - 4 pc 8.5” x 9.75” for insides of drawers, 4 pc 10” x 11.25” for drawer bottoms, and 1 pc 11.75" x 11.25" for dresser bottom. You can use 9 sheets craft felt (9” x 12”) for this – the 11.25” front – back measurement on the drawer bottoms is what’s most important –craft felt is 9” wide, and it’s OK if the felt doesn’t go all the way to the edges on the side-to-side measurement
(Sticky-back felt works and looks great, but costs a lot more than regular. I use sticky back on something I’m making as a gift, but these were for me so I just used regular felt and glued it in place with wood glue)
4 mini-knobs (Mine are unfinished ones from Ace, got for 2/$1.29 and spray-painted them)
Finish nails (I had 1 ¼” on hand) and plenty of glue
Finishing materials - filler, sand paper, plus paint/stain to suit your tastes

Cut list:
2 pc 1x12, cut at 2” (spacers - use these 'slices' for spacers while assembling, so the shelves are all spaced the same distance apart – this idea is from the Kreg jig demo video where they built the bookshelf). I like to cut these first, making sure they are nice and square. To me it’s easier and safer to cut these thin pieces from a larger piece with my miter saw.
2 pc 1x12 @ 11.75” (dresser top/bottom)
5 pc 1x12 @ 10.25” (2 for sides, 3 for shelves)
8 pc 1x2 @ 10” (drawer front/back)
8 pc 1x2 @ 9.75” (drawer sides)
4 pc 10” x 11.25” lauan plywood (drawer bottoms)
1 pc 11.75" x 11.75” lauan plywood (back)

Finished dimensions:
Dresser: 11.75” H x 11.75” W x 11 7/16” deep (includes back)
Drawer opening size: 10.25” wide x 2” tall x 11.25” deep
Drawer dimensions: 10”wide x 11.25” long x 1 11/16” tall (felt on the bottom of the drawer will make this height just a little taller)
Finished inside depth of drawer 1.5”, drawer inside dimensions 8.5” wide x 9.75” long

Finish: sanded, filled, sanded some more, and painted with some left over white paint, and used silver spray paint for the knobs

Assembly tips: Dresser part is constructed very much like the Willy bookshelf. The top and bottom are the same size on this one and the dresser bottom is applied the same way as the top of the Willy bookshelf. Once the bottom is on, use the ‘spacers’ to make sure the shelves are the same distance apart all the way up, then the top goes on last. 3/16” plywood goes on the back. Drawers are constructed like the master closet system drawers. Drawers slide directly on the shelves (and bottoms of drawers covered with felt) so no drawer glides are used. Applied the felt and knobs after sanding and finishing. Make sure the felt goes all the way from the front to the back of the drawer bottom, and is glued on thoroughly.

Built from Plan(s)
How to Build 1x12 Bookshelves with Pine Boards (With Free Custom Configurator, Diagrams & Photos)
Master Closet System Drawers
Estimated Cost
$10 (would be about $30 for materials for a 4 drawer cube done in whitewood)
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Finish Used
White paint (left over)
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

Guest (not verified)

Thu, 12/22/2011 - 20:43

These are so neat! I wish I had enough jewelry to fill one!!

JoanneS

Fri, 12/23/2011 - 11:56

Thanks very much! For the ring drawer, I used a piece of 1" thick high density foam (I cut up a kitchen chair pad) and on top of this is a piece of sticky-back felt. I drew lines on the paper side and cut slits into the felt first, then stuck it on top of the foam, and cut into the foam following the slits, using a utility knife. I didn't cut all the way through the foam, but almost to the bottom. The slits go all the way across the foam (to about 3/4" from edge) to fit more rings in there, but you can also do individual slits for each ring (if you have more patience than me - haha). The other drawers have regular felt cut to size and attached with wood glue. (Sticky back felt inside the drawers would have worked fine too, it just costs more).

claydowling

Fri, 12/23/2011 - 16:55

I just built a gentleman's valet for my sister in law's boyfriend, partly to test out some joinery ideas, and partly because I found a beautiful piece of white oak in the discount bin while I was looking for something else at the lumber dealer. I was pretty impressed with myself, but it's got nothing on the ambition of this project.

Excellent work. I absolutely wouldn't have guessed it as a beginner project.

I'm almost certainly going to have to build a jewelry chest like this for my wife pretty soon. My dad just built my mom a nice one, and my wife will be wanting her own.

JoanneS

Sat, 12/24/2011 - 13:54

Clay, thanks very much for the nice compliment. I've seen your projects here and on your blog and they are beautiful, so I'm very flattered! I've edited my original post to include measurements and cut list for a 'regular lumber' equivalent to the top chest. Lots easier than cutting all those drawer sides out of plywood and 1x12 like I did with my 'prototypes'. :) The next one I do will be with regular size lumber. Thinking of building one for my Mom. Happy holidays!

Lucy Huynh (not verified)

Thu, 02/02/2012 - 00:26

do you sell these? Its awesome. I've been looking for a tabletop drawer to store my makeup but everything is made of plastic! I was actually googling to see if there was someplace I can do woodshop to make my own jewelry drawer but alas I dont have the skills nor do I have any tools. I really admire this drawer!

claydowling

Thu, 02/02/2012 - 04:56

Lucy, try looking for something like a Makerworks. These are communal workshops with space and tools that you can use for a fee or a subscription. I don't know how prevalent they are in most of the country. I live in a suburb of Detroit, and because of the large manufacturing base there are a lot of them around.

The more expensive ones offer classes where you can pick up basic skills on unfamiliar equipment, but even those "expensive" ones don't cost a lot of money. The inexpensive ones still offer training on their equipment, but less formally than a scheduled class.

One of the more interesting features of these places, at least around here, is that they have CNC machines available. A CNC machine would let you transfer sketchup drawings directly to cut parts. For a one-off item it's not worth the trouble, but if you wanted to duplicate an item it would be great.

2x4 Outdoor Sectional Sofa

Submitted by lknolan2 on Sat, 04/18/2020 - 20:19

Great Plan! Loved how easy it was to build and how little the cost was.

Built from Plan(s)
Armless 2x4 Outdoor Sofa Sectional Piece
One Arm 2x4 Outdoor Sofa - Sectional Piece
2x4 Outdoor Sofa
Estimated Cost
$200
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Finish Used
Outdoor deck stain by Valspar in Canyon Brown
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

jwood4

Sun, 08/01/2021 - 18:40

Looks amazing! What method did you use (pocket holes, dowels, deck screws, etc) to join the visible portions like the arms?

Seasonal And Holiday
Spring
Summer

Second Project: table saw/ miter saw work bench

Submitted by jamesjill on Sat, 01/30/2021 - 20:34

Used part of the Ultimate Roll Away Workbench with Miter Saw Stand to just build one of the roll-away workbenches to work with my miter saw and table saw. I'm very happy with how it turned out.

Built from Plan(s)
Ultimate Roll Away Workbench with Miter Saw Stand
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

Wife's Kindergarten Classroom

Been a while since I had time to actually build anything worth posting about! My wife wanted some items for her Kindergarten classroom this year, so built several items, most inspired by the Farmhouse family.

Built from Plan(s)
U Shaped Table or Desk for School
Estimated Time Investment
Day Project (6-9 Hours)
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

sido17

Thu, 07/18/2019 - 15:27

I would love the dimensions or plans for this. Would love to make it for my classroom.

dlee69

Tue, 07/30/2019 - 12:07

Hello

Can I please get the plans to the u shape table?

Thanks

Linguine

Mon, 08/19/2019 - 12:09

I am guessing the corner posts are 2 x 4s, the top is 2 x 10s.  It looks like the width is 6’ (looking at the floor carpet tiles being 24” square). So 2 - 2 x 10s side by side for the main part of the desk top and 2 - 2 x10s perpendicular on each side of the chair.  I guess the height is subject to choice and the length of each side would also be subject to choice or to the length of the 2 x 10s to be economical.

 

an educated guess would be 4 - 8’  2x10s for the top and 6 - 6’ 2 x 4s for the legs?  

 

Anyone else have any input here?  Open to suggestions.....

Rolling Tote Workbench

Submitted by Reader Submission (not verified) on Mon, 04/21/2025 - 10:10

Thank you Ana for the storage tote generator. Last night I spent an hour salvaging materials from my scraps and salvaged materials. Worked on it today and it’s all finished. Everything is stuff I had on hand. I have been storing a bed I made my son and I finally dismantled it. So even the screws were salvaged. Top was from a sheet that’s been behind the stairs in my shop since I moved in. It was so dirty and rough looking I was going to toss it. But it sanded up just fine. - Angie Williams

Built from Plan(s)
Free DIY Tote Storage Rack Configurator and Plans by Ana White
Seasonal And Holiday
Back 2 School
Christmas Decor
Easter
Fall
Father's Day
Fourth of July
Halloween
Mother's Day
Spring
Summer
Thanksgiving
Valentine's Day

Reclined Back Outdoor Sofa and Chair DIY

Submitted by Reader Submission (not verified) on Sat, 04/09/2022 - 07:12

OK, I think this build may be my biggest project yet! It is definitely the heaviest. With the strong winds we can get here in Florida we needed substantial outdoor furniture.
I did make some modifications along the way measurement-wise so the sofa would fit my front porch better. All in all, this took 2 full days. I built the sofa first, stained it the next day and then decided (due to trying to get stain in all the nooks and crannies) to stain the chair pieces first before putting it together.
I am so happy with the results and so far, almost a year later, this furniture looks great and hasn't moved an inch in any of the thunderstorms we've had! Thank you Ana!!

Blog Link
Super Simple Salty Life
Built from Plan(s)
Outdoor Sofa - Modern Comfort Collection
Outdoor Chair - Modern Comfort Collection

Comments