Community Brag Posts

Favorite Outdoor Piece!

Submitted by Ana White on Fri, 06/06/2025 - 11:38

I built two of these a few years ago.  They work both as an outdoor sofa and as a lounger.  The versatility is great to make our small deck work in multiple ways.  The cushions are camp pads ($20 each!) that I covered in outdoor fabric.  Everything has held up very well.  I did add a coat of solid color exterior stain in "wrought iron" by Benjamin Moore.  Coordinating the color of all my outdoor furniture and adding more throw pillows has made my outdoor space feel like a fancy resort!

Built from Plan(s)

Comments

Seasonal And Holiday

Outhouse with Skylight

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Fri, 08/04/2023 - 11:03

Our favorite throne in town.

My daughter and I built the outhouse in the snow a few years ago. Once the TwoGa was named after the Stuga, the outhouse quickly became “The PooGa” (aka “The Ash-Hole “🤣). We use ash in the winter and sawdust in the summer, to keep away the stink, which works like a charm.

This is an adaptation to an Ana White outhouse design.

 

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Outhouse with Skylight

Built from Plan(s)

Comments

Pergola Swing

Submitted by grarob1956 on Thu, 04/23/2020 - 17:59

I saw this project on YouTube under Arbor Pergola Swing. It did not mention any specific detailed plans or cut list but it was enough to get me started. I began with (2) 10' 6" x 6" post. buried each 24" and cemented. I cut the post tops at 83" from ground line. The rafter consist of (2) 10' 2"x 6". I used the leftovers of the 6" x 6" post tops in the middle of my rafters to hang the swing from with 1/2 " eye bolt. Then I used (9) 2" x 2 " x 8' and cut each at 36" to finish off the top and (2) 2x6x8 for the 4 rafter supports. I drew out the designs of the rafters and top ends free hand and at made a template for the cuts with s jigsaw.

The entire cost including hardware minus the swing was $170. My wife had purchased the swing last Fall at a clearance for $40 brand new.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$170.00
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Valspar Duramax Special Walnut
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Garden Tool Shed (based on plans for Small Outdoor Shed)

Submitted by aceecee on Tue, 09/22/2020 - 14:07

My husband and I built a garden tool shed using your plans for a "Small Outdoor Shed or Closet." We needed exactly this size for our available space. (THANK YOU! The video was really helpful and the plans were very detailed.) We are not handy at ALL, and are definitely beginners when it comes to woodworking. But, when the person who was supposed to build it for us was delayed, we thought we could try it, or at least START.

We bought a lower-end Kreg pocket jig and a secondhand mitre saw, and set to work, using T1-11 siding. We ended up building the entire shed ourselves, and were very surprised at the end result (and proud too!). The hardest part was building the doors, since we weren't really sure how to construct them to keep them from bowing. We ended up putting trim all around the edges of the T1-11 plywood doors, inside and out. (We were too far into building them when we realized we probably should have done it differently.) We also couldn't figure out how to get the double doors to stay tightly shut, but ended up using a rotating block (see picture) at the bottom and it works great, especially given that one of the doors had a slight bow at the bottom.

I think the only ways in which we deviated from the plan were that we added trim, an additional 2x4 up high across the back of the shed (for hanging long-handled tools), and two interior shelves on the left (from leftover siding). We used colored corrugated polycarbonate sheeting over the roof instead of asphalt shingles. (Unfortunately you have to use specific screws for the sheeting and one length was too short and the other too long and protrudes through the roofing slightly, into the interior. But we like the pop of color the sheeting adds, and REALLY didn't want to do shingles for such a small area, nor did we know how to do shingles.)

My final suggestions would be that a mitre saw and pocket jig are REALLY helpful and using star head screws is easier. I would also suggest that you paint everything (prime and color coat) before assembly and just touch up afterwards, especially if you use a lot of trim as we did. We primed and painted the siding but just primed the trim, and it was a real pain to put the color coat on all that 1x3 trim after construction.

This plan is listed as an "intermediate" project and I think that's probably a correct designation. As beginners, it just took BOTH of us to figure it all out (we work really well together) and to build it, and it took a much longer time than it would for someone with more experience.

Estimated Cost
I think we probably spent between $300 and $400 on lumber, hardware and paint, not counting buying the secondhand mitre saw and the Kreg jig.
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Primed and painted, green and tan. (We bought the green and had the tan on hand.)
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

laurawelsh

Tue, 10/06/2020 - 15:56

Well done! I love this! Can I ask what dimension your garden tool shed is? And how did you decide on the new roof size/angle? I have a similar space and am contemplating something similar. Thanks!!

laurawelsh

Tue, 10/06/2020 - 15:56

Well done! I love this! Can I ask what dimension your garden tool shed is? And how did you decide on the new roof size/angle? I have a similar space and am contemplating something similar. Thanks!!

Pet Stairs

Submitted by alli2410 on Tue, 03/13/2018 - 06:26

I needed sturdy stairs for my 2 60lb dogs.  My bed is 33 inches from floor to top of mattress.  So, this is my very first project completed by myself!  Custom size pet stairs 24inx24inx24

Estimated Cost
$40-50
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Finish Used
Minwax polyshades Espresso gloss (3 coats)
Recommended Skill Level
Starter Project

Comments

6' Square Sandbox

I've been wanting to buy or make a sandbox for my son for a couple of years now. Since seeing this on Ana White I knew I had to make it. My son is 4 yo and I didn't think the 4' square sandbox would be big enough for him, so I made it bigger. Ours is 6' square. Materials: 4@1x8x6' 12@1x6x6' 2x4 - used leftovers from another project 8 hinges 4 handles decking screws Cut lengths: 2@1x8 cut to 71.5 (long sides of the box) 2@1x8 cut to 70.5 (short sides of the box) did not cut the 1x6 boards (top planks) - actually designed the other boards to fit their length to prevent cutting (saving time) (note that original plan uses 1x4 planks - I used 1x6s so I could use the same number of planks but cover a larger area) 4@2x4 cut to 11.5 (arm rests) 4@2x4 cut to 18.5 (back supports) followed instructions for assembly otherwise. At my husbands suggestion we put the handles on the sides and can easily open from either side - prevents having to lean over to the middle to open (back saver) I finished the project in 4 hours including clean up and a couple of small breaks. This is my first Ana White project. It was a lot of fun to build and I hope my son will enjoy it for years to come!

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$190
Estimated Time Investment
Day Project (6-9 Hours)
Finish Used
Sand and stain with sealer included
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

Mrs. Chellebelle

Sat, 09/01/2012 - 20:59

Wow, this is just what I need! I've been wanting to make a sandbox for under the playhouse but the other plan was too small. This would be great for the little guys. Thanks!

Garage shelves with doors

Submitted by CarolinaL on Thu, 01/11/2018 - 03:59

I have been wanting garage cabinets for a long time but couldn't afford them. When I saw these shelves I knew it would be easy to add side panels and create doors for the sections. The size is 8'x8' with the 4'x3' under the ceiling rack. I put a 2"x4" in the middle to divide each section, measured and cut doors from 5mm lauran plywood. I also cut the stiles and rails from the same material to give it interest but mainly to make it thicker to avoid warping as much as possible. I added 2"x4" to create a facing for the doors to rest on. Also used overlay hinges to simplify the hanging as much as possible. I was able to follow the design plan and the only thing I did was add a shelf at the bottom. The cleats were definitely not necessary, it's very sturdy. 

Making the doors

The first thing is to learn how to measure for cabinet doors. There are plenty of sites and YouTube videos showing how to correctly measure. If you are doing the same type of doors like I have, with no middle divider, then be sure to pay attention how to correctly measure for those instead of a single door.

The easiest way to make the doors will be getting 1/2 in sanded plywood and use a table saw to cut each door to size. Skip the shaker style trim and put the hardware on and be done. Make sure the hinges will be able to hold the weight of the door.

Unfortunately, I didn't have a table saw but I did have a router and a jig saw, and found a great video on YouTube on how to use a router to cut straight edges without a table saw. I measured out one door and used that outline to cut two identical doors. It turned out that each section was slightly a different width so I had to do two at a time. However, if you have a circular saw you can rig it to make a table saw and make a guide to rip the doors. It all depends on what tools you have available to you.  

I have a compact plunge saw and was able to cut the 3 inch strips for the shaker style with it. Honestly, that was the most tedious part and most time consuming by far. That also had to do with the fact that because the plywood is only 5mm thick I cut strips for both the front and the back to make it over 1/2 inch thick to help minimize warping and give the hinges something to grab.  

I used the miter saw to cut the stiles and rails to size and a 23 gauge nailer with 1/2 nails and glue to get them on the door. I glued and nailed the front and the back of each side at the same time because the nails are a bit longer than two pieces of plywood. I then turned it over and nailed the other side. The great thing about using a 23 gauge is that I didn't have to fill any holes because they are so small you can hardly see them at all. 

The last thing is to use your sander to ensure all of the pieces are even. I used a 60 grit and then followed it with a 220 where needed. 

If you want to avoid cutting the strips but still want to have the shaker style, Home Depot sells 1/4 thick Polystyrene flat moulding that will add vertially no weight to the door but the cost can easily add up if you have a lot of doors.

Lastly, if you are wondering why I got such thin plywood that ended up creating more work. The reason is because I wanted to save money on hardware and I didn't trust the inexpensive hinges I got off eBay would hold a heavy door for many years.

 

Estimated Cost
About $300 not including some tools I needed to buy anyway.
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Interior satin
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

Pool Noodle Holder from DIY Planter Box

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Sat, 06/04/2022 - 06:58

I modified the plans for the planter box to make a holder for Pool Noodles. I made it 40" tall and used 4-4" fence pickets and 1-5.5" fence pickets. I used a 4" spacer and the openings worked out perfect. I stained inside and out since it would show with 2 coats of the solid stain. It is perfect! Thank you so much for the inspiration and plans!

Comments

Washer & Dryer Pedestal / Platform with Drawers

Submitted by dmccoy on Tue, 03/12/2013 - 10:26

Platform (Pedestal) with Drawers for front-loader Washer & Dryer. Cheaper than buying the manufacturer's plastic pedestals and more fun to build anyway! The drawers are also much wider and deeper than the manufacturer's pedestals. We can usually fit about 3 full loads of laundry in each drawer. (That's 6 loads of laundry before we have to start folding!) It's a very easy and basic DIY project. I made a 2nd one for my brother using these plans (sans the drawers). I gotta say, the drawers are SO nice to have though. But you could just leave the front open, without drawers, and slide some laundry baskets underneath for an even quicker project. We've been using this platform now for over 2 years and there is still no squeaking or rattling. The washer & dryer haven't moved from the vibration even in the slightest. They're exactly where I placed them on the pedestal 2 years ago. There's also zero problem with the weight of the washer either...it really is a strong frame. (After finishing, I jumped up and down on it!) A couple small tweaks I would make doing it over is raising the drawers a 1/2" in. off the floor to tuck a rug underneath (as is, they sit about 1/8" in. off the floor). Also, I would cut out a couple of square holes in the back panel to access those socks that fall behind (I can't access the sides of my W&D in our particular laundry room). Lastly, I would have painted with a quality paint (I just used a few cans of white spray paint to be quicker). Step-by-Step Plans and Materials List (PDF) and many more photos found at the Blog Link below...I'm certainly no professional "Plans Writer" so email if you have questions! Happy DIY-ing! Estimated Cost: ~$200 (2x6 lumber, plywood, drawer trim, nails, screws, paint)

Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
White spray paint
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

nikolegraves@h…

Wed, 03/13/2013 - 10:12

I have wanted to do the pedestal project for quite a while. I am so glad I held off though. Yours are fantastic! I would never have thought of drawers to hide the dirty laundry! Love it!

gmccoy20

Tue, 04/02/2013 - 11:06

Really appreciate the help with mine brotha! We really like them (even without the drawers) and are glad you had these plans to go off of for ours.

I'll be calling you for our next project!

strahmers8

Fri, 02/07/2014 - 17:05

Hello this looks great and for the amateur carpenter I am but one item I need clarified "the top measurement at 64" is .25" greater than the bottom at 63.75"

Please explain if I am missing something
Thanks

dwm22

Mon, 02/10/2014 - 15:33

Not sure what measurement you mean that's 63.75" since there's no "bottom" to the pedestals. Or do you mean 1/4" wider than the sides? The top panel should overhang both sides by 1/4" each so that when the side plywood is attached, it will be flush. Hopefully that helps? (If I'm understanding the question correctly)

jmkc

Mon, 02/24/2014 - 10:29

Could leave the back panel of plywood out so you could reach what may fall behind? Then you would just have to pull the drawers out?

heverest

Wed, 06/22/2016 - 16:35

Back panel is very very structural and provides lot of strength. If i wanted more access than the 5-7 inch of duct space behind the pedestal gives me, then i would replace the back panel with a long 2x6, that holds the three legs from going in different directions due to all that weight.

dmccoy

Mon, 12/12/2016 - 14:58

This is the one modification I could make if i could redo these plans...I would still put on the back panel of plywood as it stabilizes the pedestal, I would just have cut out a rectangle (behind each drawer) so that I could remove the drawers and stick my hand/arm through to grab fallen clothes or vacuum the lint.

dachiri

Mon, 12/18/2017 - 19:17

Rather than cut holes in the back, I just cut the back and side boards a little small and left a gap around the bottom the whole way around.  That way I can get a vaccuum hose in there or reach through and get lost items.  Because my washer and dryer seem to be deeper than yours (I needed at least 33" depth, so I went with 3'), that also worked out well in getting the most out of the boards.  I could do the top, back, and sides out of one single sheet of good 3/4" plywood just leaving those small gaps at the bottom for clean-up and retreival.

Jperera

Fri, 11/20/2015 - 05:23

Hello,

I downloaded the pdf but have exactly the same information that the website html, where can I find a solution step by step guide?

Thank you for all the interesting posts.

Reclined Back Outdoor Sofa and Chair DIY

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Sat, 04/09/2022 - 07:12

OK, I think this build may be my biggest project yet! It is definitely the heaviest. With the strong winds we can get here in Florida we needed substantial outdoor furniture.
I did make some modifications along the way measurement-wise so the sofa would fit my front porch better. All in all, this took 2 full days. I built the sofa first, stained it the next day and then decided (due to trying to get stain in all the nooks and crannies) to stain the chair pieces first before putting it together.
I am so happy with the results and so far, almost a year later, this furniture looks great and hasn't moved an inch in any of the thunderstorms we've had! Thank you Ana!!

Comments

Outdoor Garbage Can Shed

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Fri, 12/08/2023 - 08:45

Chose the small firewood shed project as a "template" if you will .. built this to house our garbage cans and eventually put a gate on it to "help deter" the Florida black bears (we do multiple things to keep them at bay) but this will also just be a nicer looking way to keep the cans outside.

I modified the floor since the firewood shed had a floor that was suitable for, well, firewood but not so much for rolling garbage cans. Had to leave the one slat off the back for the depth of the can which I didn't completely account for in the beginning. Overall, still need to paint it and water seal it but happy with how it turned out.

Built from Plan(s)

Custom Outdoor Sectional Seating with Table Built-in

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Thu, 07/18/2024 - 12:20

custom outdoor sofa

It is a merge of different ideas based on your plans. Thank you. Greetings from The Netherlands.

Irina Jacoub

Comments

jbruhn

Wed, 04/23/2025 - 15:13

Hi - does anyone have an idea on what stain was used for this iteration of the project? Or what stain could get me close to that color? I’m using cedar wood. Thanks!

Seasonal And Holiday

Modern 2x4 and Fence Picket Outdoor Chair

Submitted by vendo on Tue, 04/22/2025 - 11:12

Hard to believe common 2x4’s and cedar fence pickets can produce such a beautiful outcome. Planning to knock out 1 chair a week over the next month to have them ready in time for summer! Thanks for the easy plans Ana.

Wife's Kindergarten Classroom

Been a while since I had time to actually build anything worth posting about! My wife wanted some items for her Kindergarten classroom this year, so built several items, most inspired by the Farmhouse family.

Estimated Time Investment
Day Project (6-9 Hours)
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

sido17

Thu, 07/18/2019 - 15:27

I would love the dimensions or plans for this. Would love to make it for my classroom.

dlee69

Tue, 07/30/2019 - 12:07

Hello

Can I please get the plans to the u shape table?

Thanks

Linguine

Mon, 08/19/2019 - 12:09

I am guessing the corner posts are 2 x 4s, the top is 2 x 10s.  It looks like the width is 6’ (looking at the floor carpet tiles being 24” square). So 2 - 2 x 10s side by side for the main part of the desk top and 2 - 2 x10s perpendicular on each side of the chair.  I guess the height is subject to choice and the length of each side would also be subject to choice or to the length of the 2 x 10s to be economical.

 

an educated guess would be 4 - 8’  2x10s for the top and 6 - 6’ 2 x 4s for the legs?  

 

Anyone else have any input here?  Open to suggestions.....

Sliding Pet/Baby Gate

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Mon, 02/27/2023 - 20:13

We desperately needed a gate to keep our pets from accessing the rooms, with carpet, in our new home. We originally thought about building a full barn door but, the security system was in the way and it wouldn’t have allowed the light to pass through to our dark entryway anyway. We definitely wanted to steer away from the “barn door looking” gate we did at our last home and wanted to try something more timeless with the sprayed, black caning. We have a very eclectic style. Very vintage industrial, MCM, with pops of RH glam and a touch of BOHO. Sounds confusing but, I needed this gate to take the pressure off of trends we didn’t quite fit in and be easy to use for my teenager. The gate leads to her bed/bath and the guest rooms. The mechanism is not my design but, it’s brilliant, especially for the industrial element to our home. Took me close to 4 days from start to finish. Lost my Kreg jig in our move and was so thankful to a stranger-neighbor that willingly let me borrow his on the curiosity of what exactly I was building. NGL, it felt pretty good when he said how impressed he was with the build. 💞

Comments

DIY Breakfast Nook with Storage

Submitted by jfelker on Wed, 10/23/2013 - 08:54

DIY Breakfast Nook

I completed this project in a weekend, over 2 days. The space was an empty void in the corner of our kitchen, so I decided to fill with a functional seating and eating space.

I first removed the trim from the wall, so I could reuse it on the front of the box later, to make the bench match the rest of the kitchen. One challenge I came across was rerouting the a/c vent through the front of the box so we didn't lose that circulation.

My sister-in-law chipped in to make the cushions and pillows to soften it up. I added the DIY table, and further defined the space with wainscoting and trim.

Estimated Cost
$500
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Semi-gloss trim paint was use, to have the ability to clean later after meals, etc.
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

homeideas5099

Wed, 10/23/2013 - 10:10

Looks fantastic. Love how you reused the trim to have the whole unit blend in with the rest of the kitchen. Well done.

PDubs74

Sun, 01/09/2022 - 16:45

Hey there,
Absolutely love your DIY breakfast nook. Unfortunately the additional blog/info link is no longer working as I'm trying to gather more information. Would anyone be able to send the instructions and/or new link?
Thank you

Two Story Rabbit Hutch

For my first woodworking project, I foolishly decided to build a rabbit hutch without plans for my daughters new Easter Bunny. So I literally scratched some ideas on my wood working bench and started going to work. I did some construction over a decade ago, but never attempted to build any furniture before, so I'm pretty happy with how this came out.

I spent a few days researching various rabbit cages and for our place we needed something that was ascetically pleasing and functional as it was going in our living room. I got some ideas from the web and decided the best thing for us would be to have an entry ramp, 2 sets of barn doors for each level (for easy cleaning) and an open roof. We went with linoleum floors since she's already litter trained. The floors could easily be modified to add 1/2" wire mesh if we decide to change things down the line. Also, we chose an espresso finish with silver hardware to accent the wire mesh

I pretty much crashed and burned on the staining as I've never done that before, but it ended up looking ok after all. I did a light sanding, but will probably invest in a planer and jointer to get my wood in better shape before assembling in the future. Also, I'll probably lightly dab some stain on ends of wood before final assembly as it made it difficulty trying to hide the white pine with the dark stain.

Other cages I saw ran around $200-$350.00 so i don't feel so bad about the cost. It's really the time that it took learning and making mistakes. I'm sure if I had plans I could of cut my time in 1/2.

Total Cost came out to around $150.00 but probably would of been cheaper if I had some plans to go by. I probably wasted a few 2x2s and accidentally mis-cut a scrap piece of 1/4"plywood which added another $16.00 to the bottom line.

Here's a breakdown of my total cost.

Hardware - $30.00
Includes 5 latches, 4 sets of hinges (8 total) and a 3' piano hinge

Stain - $8.00

Linoleum Tile @ ¢.69 sq ft - $16

Brushes, Stain Rags - $5.00

Screws - $6.00

Wire Mesh Roll $30.00
Needed 2 rolls at $15.00 each. I used 1" Wire Mesh measuring 2'x15'

Total Wood $50.00-$60
I used 2x3's for the legs - 2 @ 8' - $2.00 each ($4.00)
probably 15-20 2x2's - $1.52 each - can't remember how many I used to be honest ($30.00)
and a few 1x6's for the Doors - $2.00 each ($6.00)
Sheet of 1/4 plywood - $12.00

Estimated Cost
$150
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

ashinshaw

Thu, 05/03/2012 - 08:09

I also have been thinking with the idea of building a two story hutch for our rabbit. I love your ideas so now i have a new project to work on. Thanks for sharing!

Nicolene (not verified)

Mon, 10/08/2012 - 12:46

I LOVE your cage! We have 2 rabbits and 2 Guinea pigs which means we have 2 ugly cages in our living room. We are planning something similar, but a bit bigger (but lower if that makes sense). And we'll put a 3rd story on for our Guinea pigs. So we have everyone on the same patch of real estate so to speak. I was going to do 3 solid walls with wire "windows" too keep all the hay, poops and such contained. I am also going to put lockable wheels underneath, so I can move it to my office if I ever need to (parties and renovations).

Is there anything that you can now think of that you would like to change on yours? R my research purposes.. :) It looks awesome, I'm just picking your brain for "hindsight" tips.

Murphy bed

Submitted by bpcooper14 on Wed, 05/08/2019 - 06:09

So I've always wanted to build a Murphy bed.  And by always I mean since I first came across plans here that made it look so simple.  It ended up taking me a while to do because my job has me working 6 days a week so I was only able to work on it for short chunks of time.

I ended up utilizing a few different plans and mashed them together to build a full size murphy bed.  The shelves are the support legs when the bed is down.  The "hinge" mechanism are heavy duty 360 degree seat swivels.

All-in-all it turned out WAY better than I expected with only some minor issues throughout the construction process.  

Next up is a twin xl Murphy bed with a murphy desk attachment that will serve as a craft  table when up.

Estimated Cost
3 - 4x8 sheets of 3/4" plywood ($25 each)
3 - 1x2x8 to wrap the frame ($2-3 each)
1 pack Door Hinge pins to serve as the pins to hold the bed upright ($3-5)
1 pint stain
1 pint shellac
2 - Heavy Duty 360 degree seat swivels ($20)
Screws/nails/etc.

All told, this project probably cost around $200
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

2x4 DIY Pantry

Submitted by Michael K on Thu, 08/15/2019 - 11:50

Anything is possible when you put your mind to it. This is my 4th DIY furniture project. First time working on cabinet/doors. Installing them straight was the biggest challenge. The side of the pantry is actually four 2x4's. I measured the frame so tightly that I had to use a hammer to bang in the fourth 2x4 on each wall, also adding a distressed look in the process. The pantry is very large, 48in wide and about 17 inches deep. Our kitchen lacks storage space and we could use a little more space for food and also pots, pans etc. The staircase to our basement is off our kitchen, so I placed the pantry right at the bottom of the staircase for easy access. I am thrilled with how this came out considering the time and effort it took. Very gratifying. Build on!

diy pantry made from 2x4s

Estimated Cost
$180-$200
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Miniwax English Chestnut
Miniwax Semi Gloss Poly
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

Michael K

Thu, 03/05/2015 - 07:51

Thanks, to the both of you! Possibly the most fun part of this project was buying a Ryobi Airstrike Brad Nailer. That thing is fun to use! Used it for the back of the doors, back of the pantry and also for the door stops.

denverdave66

Sat, 07/23/2016 - 18:21

I am thinking about building one but I am not sure if my skill level is up to this yet. I am going to attempt to build the Kentwood Bookshelf and see how that goes. I am remodeling my office and want real wood shelves instead of that pressed wood junk. Great job on your build.  I love this website!

langgin26

Sat, 01/13/2018 - 18:09

Hey Michael I really love the pantry and would love to make this exact one but there is not enough info on the sizes and what all you used for all the wood. If you have  time I would greatly appreciate it if you could give us some more info thank you 

Steve Phil

Fri, 12/25/2020 - 10:42

Haha. Nice. But ya did not pound it in ... You persuaded it in as old timber framers would say using an old mallet called a Commander. 😉

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