I read and studied every comment and brag post about this shed. I must have read the plans a hundred times before I got up the courage to tackle it. It’s a very attractive and affordable shed design. I thought a double wide version would be perfect for our long, narrow side yard, and it is! I mostly stuck to the plans except for a few things. I made it 10” taller overall so there would be plenty of head clearance under the doorway. That was a very easy modification. I used 2x4s for the walls instead of 2x2s because we have high winds in our area. That modification was a little bit more challenging, but I planned it out and it worked! Also I used 2x6s for the headers instead of 2x4s. I also added 2x4s at the thresholds because I couldn’t image making it stay square without them. I basically made two sheds joined by a common wall in the center. I did not increase the depth, mostly because I was afraid to mess with the angles and how that would change the pitch of the roof. Joining two sheds together meant that I didn’t have to put the exterior pickets on the middle wall. But it also meant that I had to build 4 doors. Yuck. They were difficult to get lined up and level, but I was amazed it actually worked and that all the doors operate properly and smoothly. I was questioning the wisdom of my decision to do 4 doors while I was in the thick of it, but now that all the work is done, I love that I can open all 4 doors and have easy access to absolutely everything in the shed. Very convenient! I told my dad I was building a shed and he recommend that I add cross braces. It seemed sturdy enough without them but it certainly can’t hurt. My dad knows everything about building and I know nothing, so I took his recommendation. If I were to do this again, I would overlap the cedar pickets by 1” instead of ½”. My pickets were not quite wide enough. I could swear they shrunk after I applied the stain/uv protection. I used liquid nails along each lap but it didn’t hold. Where the glue DID hold tight, the wood split lengthwise. Anyway, for whatever reason, gaps appeared and I spent a fortune on clear silicon applied on the interior walls to make it water tight. I had to keep going back for “just one more tube.” So with hind sight I would have been better off just buying a few more pickets and increasing the overlap. Another thing I might do is make it deeper. I decided against it initially because I was worried that increasing the depth would make it flimsy. Now I don’t think that would be a problem. This shed is sturdy. I can’t say thank you enough. Great plans and a great website! I am completely hooked.
Comments
davidmauer15
Thu, 08/01/2013 - 08:10
Ingenious
I originally just had a 2x2 and two blocks to hold up the wings on the cart. They kept falling out, so I replaced them with hinged arms, which were a pain to fit and install, but they work well. Your approach has the same advantage of hinging the support arms: the wood can't fall out and it looks way simpler to install than my system.
One hint if you try Nermell's approach: Flip the cart upside down when you fit and install the support arms. I did all kinds of complex sketches and measurements, then realized it was just faster to lean the support bracket at roughly 45 degrees, then I installed the two block (one on the side, one on the wing) to hold the bracket in place. Flip the cart over, and your wing will sit at a perfect 90 degrees to the sides of the miter saw cart.