Chicken Coop
Great for a small flock of 5 or less.
Great for a small flock of 5 or less.
I made this with 1x6 since Home Depot didn’t have any 1x10 treated wood. All the wood I used is treated. I also used the exterior screws and put on a gray poly mixed stain for a little extra protection. I of course messed up the angles twice on the feet, but they just look like I gave them extra decoration now lol. Everybody loves this chair!
I liked the simple design of the camp loft bed, so I took the plan and modified it to fit over top of our existing Ikea daybed. I adjusted the width of the loft bed and made it a little taller, so that I could sit on the bottom bed and read to the kids with out hitting my head on the loft bed all the time.
I built the ladder into the side of the loft bed so that it wouldn't interfere with the drawers on the front of the daybed. This worked out well, as it also gives the girls more room to play!
This build is super easy, but I have to say that I don't like working with 2x4s. They are so rough....I spent a lot of time sanding and filling, and it's still not perfect. But I'm ok with it ;) I may add another cross support because it is a bit wobbly (probably b/c I made it taller).
The finish is a color matched 'All surface enamel' from Sherwin Williams.
Wed, 08/04/2021 - 06:38
Hello Millhouse. I love the loft bed you created. I have the exact hemnes daybed for my daughter and I beg to build the same loft bed. Do you have the exact modified plan you used with the measurements that fit the bottom bed? This would be super helpful!! Thanks in advance!
I made these two Ana White outdoor end tables for my patio. Next up will be the matching coffee table
Sun, 01/29/2023 - 16:04
Thanks for sharing, they will be a nice outdoor additon!
I'm happy to share with everyone my IKEA hack 6" tray cabinet.
I found a 24" cabinet box in IKEA's As-Is section and took it home for half price ($23)! I would have preferred plywood, but my table saw is a little small and cutting large sheets of plywood is a little scary. When I deconstructed the cabinet, it sustained some damage (as its particleboard), so if you try this at home, be careful! I ended up changing the depth to 22" in order to cut off the damaged piece, but that shouldnt be noticeable with average trays and cutting boards.
I used Ana's 6" tray cabinet plan and modified the dimensions a little for my planned space. It still needs the back, face frame and door (which will be a replacement drawer front from the cabinet manufacturer). I plan on building the face frame at the time the cabinets are installed, since this will go in between the 36" corner easy-reach and the 36" sink base. Once its done, I'll post updated pics!
Thank you! You've helped me look like a true carpenter who knows what he's doing! My whole family is impressed with my woodwork lately, and now I'm addicted. I've done your seesaw, bar table and stools plus the treehouse in 2 weeks. Thank you for sharing your plans!
We needed extra storage in the living room and I didn’t want to pay mega bucks for our cabinet guy to make something I thought I could do.
Its four ft tall, 3 ft long and 16 inches deep. I added 1x3’s to the sides and 1x4’s to the bottom.
I bought the Kreg shelf pin jig and it was super easy to use. Plan to use it again on a bigger project.
Next is a fireplace and TV surround.
Thanks Ana for the easy to follow plans!
I saw the plans on Ana White website and and used them to put this together. I changed it slightly to fit my needs. I made this for my in-laws and it was a lot of fun to do. Hardest part was using blue tape on stain and paint.
I used the Rustic X Hall Tree plans and slightly modified them. I'm very happy with how it turned out. I used black pipe for the hooks as I have a lot of this style of decor in my home. The stain color is Dark Bourbon from Varathane. The back is luan with screen bead across the front to hide the cut panels (I have a Ford escape and had them cut the luan into panels). The back is secured with 1x2s so I had something to hold my 5/8 inch brad nails for the screen bead. I didn't use the X design; I can always add it later if necessary. The baskets are from Amazon sized 12x12x10. I also didn't add the 16 inch side pieces or the top piece. I used pocket holes on 95% or more of the piece.
Ana White inspired chaise lounge......
I built these doors for a very good friend of mine who actually helped me get started turning my new love for building (after finding Ana's site) into a way for our family to make some extra money.
It took me a little while to wrap my brain around building something without using my Kreg Jig. I used a router table set up with some raised panels bits and put the whole thing together with glue and nails! Wonderful experience!
For the finish, I used a vinegar solution to give the cedar wood an old barn look. I think the final result turned out great and the final step was a clear coat sprayed on out of a rattle can.
Thu, 08/02/2012 - 10:51
These turned out great! I haven't seen this style of door in forever! They used to be really popular, I remember my Aunt and Uncle having these in the entry to their kitchen. They were the coolest thing ever when I was a kid! Maybe they are a making a comeback?
I'm really impressed with your routing skills, that's a task I have yet to tackle, but I've got the bits laying around waiting.
Nice job!
Thu, 08/02/2012 - 21:10
Thanks a bunch! My friend is replacing an old set of louvered doors that went into her laundry room. Her family are farmers and rodeo people so the western decor really fits in their house. Great western stuff there. They made a chandelier out of a wagon wheel! Really cool!
This was my first attempt at routing so I really appreciate your compliment! It's really simple if you can get the basics of it. I'm sure you'll do just fine when you get to that point. If I can do it, anyone can do it! Thanks again!!
Mon, 01/23/2017 - 09:32
I really want to try and build this for a closet. Are there any instructions for this? This is the first door of this style that I have come across that I absolutely love.
My garage is in a different dimention now! Thank you Ana!
I had a bit of trouble with the length of the dowels but overall I am so happy with it.
Sun, 09/25/2016 - 12:33
Glad to see these made! It is such a simple project but so userful! Your space looks great, thanks for sharing! Ana
In reply to Glad to see these made! It by Ana White
Sun, 09/25/2016 - 18:56
I have to say I will be making a few of those! I find the plan you designed is simply awesome! The boots are of the floor which simplifies the cleaning, the dowels are not very long so you wouldn't stumble upon them, the spacing is great! I can go on and on about this one very well thoughtout !!!
This is a realtively easy build. Simply follow the instructions and it will come together beautifully. I have down a couple of these so far and this one was actually narrower than the plans called for. The lady I built them for wanted the center section to match her cushion width as closely as possible so I simply used one less cedar 1x4. It turned our perfectly.
I have found most of the plans I have built from this site are pretty simple and most of my time has been spent on the finish.
This is my 10ft long picnic table (which is bar height) that we built for the patio. We needed better seating for parties and BBQ's. I will post the plans later! Also featured is the couch that we designed and built with the center table.
Thu, 04/02/2015 - 17:06
Table looks great exactly what I need for my patio, do you happen to have the plans?
The enclosed garden plan.
I made mine 12x12 and added a middle The instructions were very easy to follow. I also had old paver stones, sand and gravel kicking around from a project from last year so created a floor to help with weed control. I used screws and fender washers instead of staples to attach the caging. I added two tiny beds to the inside for sweet peas to grow up the caging to attract pollinators. Let the growing begin!
Barb
Took be about 2.5 weeks to build this bed, working evenings and a couple full days on the weekend. I HIGHLY recommend getting a Kreg Jig. It made life so much easier.
To go from a queen to a king, simply add 16" to all of the width pieces. All of the length pieces will be the same for a queen and king.
I added one 2x2 support beam down the middle of the bed, with two 16 3/4 inch legs attached to it, for added support. I screwed the slats into all 3 of the 2x2 support beams.
The drawers are the trickiest part. Make sure you follow the plan in order, waiting to install the drawers until after you have screwed the storage bins to the headboard and footboard.
I built this closet system based on the plans here. So easy and so basic, just putting them all together to make a very nice looking closet setup. I used 12 sheets of birch plywood, and premium select 1x2 pine. All stained in Minwax Jacobean and satin clear througout with semi-gloss clear on the drawer fronts.
For the rods, I used chainlink top bars, which cost $6 for a 10' piece, and used #0000 steel wool to buff them out and then polished them. For the 45 degree corners, I used 1" electrical conduit, and placed two 45 degree bend in each piece, and again steel wool and polished them as well.
For the drawers, I used soft-close slides. When using these, I highly recommend installing the rear brackets as well, as they make installation so much easier. 16 pairs of soft-close drawer slides with brackets cost $120 for all of them on Amazon.
Thu, 01/02/2020 - 17:28
Great closet! Which soft close slides on Amazon did you buy?
For this project, I used 6 foot cedar fence posts and 8 foot cedar 2x4s. I used a pencil to space the boards and allow extra air flow. More space between boards is acceptable - even to the extent of dropping off one full board and putting an inch between each side rail.
Another option is to make your sides interlocking layers, one or two boards high - http://cedarstackingcompostbin.blogspot.com/
Since I am composting large amounts of leaves and grass clippings, mine is made in one piece. I don't turn my pile often - when I do, I can either lift the whole thing up or move the pile from side to side. I cut the 2x8x8 posts - cut a 3 foot length off of each end. Save the 2 foot center piece to brace the long sides. Affix your 1/2 (3 foot side) and full fence (6 foot side) boards to the 2x4, leaving the desired gap between each board. Affix each board with 2 weather proof screws - I used coated deck screws.
Attach the vertical posts to the inside of the cedar fence boards, including the short 2 foot boards that are just long enough to brace the long sides. I alternated the dog eared sides, so that each corner had one flat and one notched board.
I used 24 cedar fence posts and 16 feet of cedar 2x4. Note, I was able to do this all along. The trash cans acted as supports - no clamps or saw horses needed.
Fri, 12/07/2012 - 18:43
This is a little heavy when finished. I can easily flip it over to turn the compost, but after building it and tiring my arms out with the cutting and drilling, it was a long haul to the back yard to position it. You might be happy with a 3x3 bin, in which case, I suggest making it 1 board shorter and leaving wider spaces - if you think through the math, you can probably get it down to 10-12 cedar fence posts and 1 longer 2x4. Cost would be about $35 that way - cheaper than most compost bins.
My first real wood project with no help from my father. I wanted to make this for my mother for christmas and I got it done 2 hours before church. I recently purchased a kreg jig r 3 and put it to good use. I made a few changes to the plan that helped me achieve the look that I desired. First, through trial and error I adjusted the kreg jig to be able to drill pocket holes to secure the shelves without the need to go back and wood putty the scrww heads that normal would have been exposed on the outer walls. There is a picture of this set up that I uploaded. Also, when byielding the drawers I made two changes. From what I could tell, the plans called for 1/4 inch plywood for the bottoms of the shelves and that is the way I made them at the beginning. However I was not happy with the appearance of the plywood on the nice face boards I was using for the drawers. So I decided to rip down the two side pieces and the back piece of the drawers ( should be 1 - 5 1/2 inch back piece and 2 - 5 3/4 inch pieces ) but I left the face Plate the full inch and a half that way the plywood wous not show from the front. The last change I made on the drawers was I made 2 pocket holes on each side piece to attach the face to the drawers that way the nail holes would not be showing from the front view. While these steps might not have be necessary , it worked for me. Thank
you very much for the plan my mom cried when she opened the box for the first time.
Made this toy chest for my niece this Christmas. Pretty easy build. Used some leftover wood and plywood for the top to cut down on cost. Instead of edge banding, I used some screen moulding. The wooden owls were purchased from Hobby Lobby and glued on to match her room, as well as the "C" on top. Cutouts routered on both front and sides to better protect fingers, and for looks.
I saw this plan a couple of months ago, and knew right away that this is what we need for our kids - their old table was always filled with papers, crayons and they never had enough space to store whatever they did.
I made the table longer so that it would be enough for both of them, and added foldable legs to support the table top.
Since I didn't find the right hinges for the legs, I used a piece of 1x1 with wood dowels which are attached to the inner side of the legs when unfolded.
Fri, 03/22/2013 - 16:08
Well, I now know what I'm doing tomorrow! I'm going to make a small hinged one to go in our entryway because we have nowhere to put stuff while we're getting our shoes on. Yours looks great!
Comments
Ana White Admin
Sun, 07/10/2022 - 18:01
Nice Coop!
Looks great, thanks for sharing your project!