Community Brag Posts

Using the counter height planter plans from Janettx. Thanks!

This was my first major woodworking project and i couldn't be happier with the result! I also built a miniature version for our dogs' dishes.

This was a big project to tackle. I'm not very good at modifying building plans, so my husband was frustrated during the beginning of this build. But we are very happy with the way it turned out.
The hardest part of the build was the steps. We modified them to look like blocks, so getting the dimensions equal was tough. We also made it a full size bed so that there was more room under the bed.
We used plexiglass for the doors and LED lighting under the bed.

Living in a cottage on a lake during the summers, I needed a picnic table that would take care of a big family so I built the Octagonal picnic table on Ana's site, however with a twist.

Since we are under a bunch of trees, I wanted to be able to scrub the table easily and not have to do any maintenance on it over the long term. So I built the top and the benches using Trex. Yes, it was more expensive but the result (if I do say so myself) was incredible.

Since Trex isn't as structural as 2 x 6's, I reinforced the seats using 2x4s laid horizontally underneath the seam of each of the two bench pieces. I also drove a few extra screws through the Trex benches along the 2 x 4's to further strengthen seating area.

Aesthetically, I didn't care for the 1/2 inch spacing for the table top and benches so I reduced it to 1/4 inch and cut the length of the Trex accordingly. I used decking screws that exactly matched the color of the Trex.

I did take the advice of one of the former builder's of this table and staggered the legs to make it easier to get in and out. That was a worth while suggestion.

The only 'warning' I was given about using Trex was that it could get 'hot' if in the sun for long periods during the day during the summer. This table is in the shade almost all the time, but having said that I have read that the Trex as decking gets no hotter than treated lumber stained the same color.

This is a great design at it was lots of fun to build.

Really fun build! I changed the plans a bit and made the spindles go all the way to the bottom. Made it more open for the dog. Took a while to finish since I would tinker when I had the extra time! Turned out great with the two tone, stained from and top with white spindles and door. Thanks for the plans!

I built this closet system for our basement gym as a Christmas present to my boyfriend.  He loved it!

I stained all of the boards before building as suggested in the plan - it definitely saved a lot of time and stress.  After cutting and staining, and I brought all of the pieces downstairs to build.  

The actual building went relatively quickly, but without perfectly straight boards, the shelves themselves were a little tricky.  I also just nailed the shelf boards down with wood glue rather than screwing them in to save time - it's still sturdy and secure.

The length of the closet is about 8 feet long, so the middle shelf is about 1 foot and the two rod shelves are about 3.5 feet long.

I used the chicken shed plans to create the coop, with a modification to include two nesting boxes, one on each side.

I slightly modified the nesting boxes, using a U shaped frame and added hinges for the front to swing down and the pine shavings to be swept out.

For the siding, we found it easiest to do the tack and trace method. We tacked each full sheet of siding in place and traced the cuts for the window, roof line, doors, and nesting boxes. We then took them down, darkened the lines, cut 'em, and re-hung them. It made it a million times easier, IMHO.

For the inside, I designed several roosting bars with poop platforms. The water is a gravity fed chicken nipple/pvc setup, which I found online.

The food stations, also gravity fed, are (new) sewer pipes with wye connectors.

I used the roof and siding scraps to make shelves for storage inside.

By sourcing reclaimed materials, I built the coop, run, interior, feeding stations (5), and waterer for $550. I only bought 27 pieces of new lumber (15 2x4's and the 12 8 foot long 1x3's)

Even the paint was free! (We have a drop and swap at the haz mat recycling center run by the county. We have gotten 100's of dollars of free paint, stain, and varnish there. I even used a can of free spar varnish to seal the inside of the coop)

There are still a few pieces of trim to be cut and painted, but the girls are inside eating, drinking, and merry!

I did find that at the Home Depot, if you buy chicken wire, it costs way more then 150 feet x 36 inch "stucco netting". The stucco netting was $54 for 150 feet, and chicken wire is $76 for the same amount. It is the exact same wire.

I built the run out of resourced 1x2 furring strips. They were a pain to work with, very prone to breaking when not supported, but with the entire run costing $25 for wood and $54 (with half a roll left over) for chicken wire, I can handle some extra time and effort.

If anyone has any questions for me, feel free to contact me! I'd love to help!

This was my first build and I had a blast! Let me say at the outset that if I can build this table with limited tools and expertise, then so can you! What I lack in know-how, I made up for by not being afraid to try something new. If you do the same, you can sure build this table. This table combines Ana's Triple Pedestal Dining Room Table (pedestals from this plan) and her Farmhouse Table (tabletop modified from this plan). Because Ana's plans are so great and thorough, I will only make note of a few key areas where I either tried something different or where I recommend paying extra close attention. First, on the tabletop, I reduced the length to 90 inches to accommodate our space, and therefore eliminated the center pedestal. As you can see, I alternated 2x10's and 2x8's. I also eliminated the breadboards simply because my wife and I preferred the rustic plank style. I also moved the pedestals in to allow a full 15 inches for a chair to slide underneath. When constructing the tabletop, I used both glue (clamped) and pocket holes on the underside. Don't overdo the glue, as it will tend to drip down (which is the top of the table...I had some drip issues). I also strongly recommend buying/borrowing clamps to keep the top flush or making them from 2x4's as I did. I worked hard on this part, and I'm glad that I did. It was still hard to keep it flush. On the pedestals, I used slightly bulkier decorative pieces (I started the arcs 1.25" from the edge on both ends of the arc). I also attached the top plank directly to the underside of the tabletop rather than to the top of the pedestal in order to both bolster the tabletop and to more easily attach the pedestals precisely where I wanted them. Finally, I drilled shallow flat-bottom holes and used wood bolts to fasten both the pedestals and the crossbeam. This created a nice-looking, low-profile fastener that still enables disassembly should we ever need to move the table (it is HEAVY fully assembled!). The finish is two coats of Minwax Ebony Wood Finish (pre-treated with Minwax Wood Conditioner) and three coats of Minwax Fast-Drying Polyurethane (two coats on pedestals). Thank you, Ana, for the inspiration! Our family has a new table because of it! Thanks to all of you for sharing in our excitement, and I'm happy to share dimensions/details/etc should it be helpful to anyone.

A good friend of mine, a pastor of a local church, asked me to build a pulpit for their recently finished church up in the countryside of Grenada. She showed me a picture of what she had in mind and based on that, I drew my own plan in SketchUp, and then built it out of Yellow Pine boards and Plywood.

Note to the dimensions:
After I drew the plan, and just when I was at the lumberyard to have the plywood and boards cut, I thought I might have had it estimated not wide enough, so I decided on the spot to make it 2" wider and the top panel 2" wider and deeper too. So if you'd like to build based on my plans, please consider if it's wide enough for your purposes.

This is what I used (corrected measurements here):

2x 2x8 26" long YP Boards (Base)
1x 18 1/2" x 6 1/2" Plywood (Base Support Panel)
1x 26" x 16" Plywood (Top)
1x 18 1/2" x 9" Plywood (Shelf Panel)
2x 45" x 9 1/2" Plywood (Side Panels ) - these are cut angled, see plans
1x 44 1/2" Wood Moulding (for the "stopper" on the top panel, and the "back" of the top shelf.

Weekend swing project

I have to say, there is something about listening to music on vinyl that just gives me the warm fuzzies! A little bit of crackle, fuzz and hum.. physically having to flip over the record to get to the next side, & listening to an album start to finish just has a nostalgic feel to me and I love it.

We’ve started quite the collection of LP’s and quickly found we needed some good storage for them. Since vinyl isn’t exactly the most popular form for listening to music, I just had to make my own.

I knew it had to have 3 things.. size to fit, wheels and easy of searching through records.

I had some scrap poplar plywood lying around, and just had to purchase some casters and furring strips to frame out the box. I even had an extra cabinet handle laying around to use.

I made it 12 inches wide by 16 inches deep, framed it out shaker style with furring strips and then stained it.. added casters and a handle ;)

This is a Murphy Bed that I made for my daughter Alicia for their getaway home at Canadian Lakes, MI. Due to limited space i had to make it horizontal instead of the normal way of being vertical. It really comes in handy and takes up very little space.

Love getting to watch my daughter play with stuff that i made her.