Community Brag Posts

A's Full Size Loft Bed

Submitted by Hulsberg on Sun, 08/12/2012 - 14:58

My son needed more room in his bedroom...and to be rid of the very girly furniture he inherited when he moved into his "big boy-ish" bedroom. At 10 yrs old, it was high time he got a bed that wasn't pink-tinged, white washed pine with 4 posters and enough curlicues to choke a forest. He also needed a desk which I couldn't really fit in his room with the armoire and chest of drawers that came with the Queen sized bed.

So off to Ikea we went and I saw a black loft bed for $300, but it was really, really high which meant I would have to cut it down and it was not sturdy at all. I looked at PB and saw the $1800 bed. Um, no - that wasn't happening. So, off to Ana-White I went and I'm so happy I did!

I built the full sized version of these plans and, to keep costs down, used wood I had on hand. This meant I had to work a bit at the cuts, but it all worked out.

Mods:
1) I modified the railings to have the ladder at the end of the bed to keep away from the ceiling fan.

2) Because I put the ladder at the end of the bed, I got very nervous about having a soon-to-be teen climbing on to a ladder secured to a 1x10 that was only connected to the side railings with glue and screws. So I sandwiched extra 1x3s over the bottom rails and attached them to the top railing.

3) I was very nervous about making sure that the bed was adequately supported so I put a 2x4 down the center instead of the 1x2.

4) I went a wee-bit overboard screwing things together to the point where it's a bit embarrassing and now I have to paint over the screw heads.

5) I made the ladder treads with 2x4's, modifying the inside spacer board cut lengths.

Because I had quite a bit of lumber on hand, the bed only ended up costing me about $90.

For the bookcase, I did end up buying the 1x12s and the adjustable shelf railings. I made the book shelf the entire width of of the bed and split the two sections based on width of the 1x24 board I bought for the desk. I only put the backer board up half way so that the daylight could get underneath the bed and make it not so cave-like.

The book case cost me about $70.

The desk was the easiest...but most costly item. A 1x6x24, 4 table legs and the table leg mounts ran me about $80. The plexiglass top that I had cut for the top cost me about $80.

Time wise, this would have taken me a lot less time than the 4 months it took - but I worked on it as I could and when I could, by myself. I got some friends to help me bring it upstairs and put it back together, but it was mostly done when I could fit in some time.

My son LOVES this and it really does give him so much room!!! Thanks Ana - I really appreciate it!

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
with paint, screws and bookcase hardware, about $450
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
gloss spray paint / primer in one.
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

Jennifer P (not verified)

Fri, 01/18/2013 - 07:38

Hi!

To modify this to be full sized, I just added 15" to the width of the bed. Ana said this in the plans:

Cutting Instructions:

Converting to Full Size This bed can easily be converted to full size. You will simply need to add 15″ to all boards that run parallel to the ends. This includes the planks, end top pieces and the slats. Shopping list will need to be adjusted as well.

So I modified the cuts to the head and foot board parts and the full size mattress fits perfectly.

For the shelving underneath, I just looked at some of Ana's other plans for shelves and winged it.

Front porch planters

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Thu, 01/07/2021 - 20:21

Followed your plan but added extra 1 x 2 trim to the sides, feet made from 1 × 3 and 1x 3 trim around the top

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$35 per planter
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Finish Used
Cedar Naturaltone Behr Waterproofing Wood Finish
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

Seasonal And Holiday

Modified for double hanging

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Tue, 04/04/2017 - 14:50

I used 8 ft precut boards for shelves and modified the design so there was enough room for two racks on each side. In addition I screwed 1x4 to the studs to secure the shelving to the wall.  I have a 5 year old climber so it was best to be proactive and secure it. It was easy project took about 4 hours to complete.  I plan to paint the vertical boards a medium gray and stain the shelves a dark coffee color. 

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$350
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Washer & Dryer Pedestal / Platform with Drawers

Submitted by dmccoy on Tue, 03/12/2013 - 10:26

Platform (Pedestal) with Drawers for front-loader Washer & Dryer. Cheaper than buying the manufacturer's plastic pedestals and more fun to build anyway! The drawers are also much wider and deeper than the manufacturer's pedestals. We can usually fit about 3 full loads of laundry in each drawer. (That's 6 loads of laundry before we have to start folding!) It's a very easy and basic DIY project. I made a 2nd one for my brother using these plans (sans the drawers). I gotta say, the drawers are SO nice to have though. But you could just leave the front open, without drawers, and slide some laundry baskets underneath for an even quicker project. We've been using this platform now for over 2 years and there is still no squeaking or rattling. The washer & dryer haven't moved from the vibration even in the slightest. They're exactly where I placed them on the pedestal 2 years ago. There's also zero problem with the weight of the washer either...it really is a strong frame. (After finishing, I jumped up and down on it!) A couple small tweaks I would make doing it over is raising the drawers a 1/2" in. off the floor to tuck a rug underneath (as is, they sit about 1/8" in. off the floor). Also, I would cut out a couple of square holes in the back panel to access those socks that fall behind (I can't access the sides of my W&D in our particular laundry room). Lastly, I would have painted with a quality paint (I just used a few cans of white spray paint to be quicker). Step-by-Step Plans and Materials List (PDF) and many more photos found at the Blog Link below...I'm certainly no professional "Plans Writer" so email if you have questions! Happy DIY-ing! Estimated Cost: ~$200 (2x6 lumber, plywood, drawer trim, nails, screws, paint)

Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
White spray paint
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

nikolegraves@h…

Wed, 03/13/2013 - 10:12

I have wanted to do the pedestal project for quite a while. I am so glad I held off though. Yours are fantastic! I would never have thought of drawers to hide the dirty laundry! Love it!

gmccoy20

Tue, 04/02/2013 - 11:06

Really appreciate the help with mine brotha! We really like them (even without the drawers) and are glad you had these plans to go off of for ours.

I'll be calling you for our next project!

strahmers8

Fri, 02/07/2014 - 17:05

Hello this looks great and for the amateur carpenter I am but one item I need clarified "the top measurement at 64" is .25" greater than the bottom at 63.75"

Please explain if I am missing something
Thanks

dwm22

Mon, 02/10/2014 - 15:33

Not sure what measurement you mean that's 63.75" since there's no "bottom" to the pedestals. Or do you mean 1/4" wider than the sides? The top panel should overhang both sides by 1/4" each so that when the side plywood is attached, it will be flush. Hopefully that helps? (If I'm understanding the question correctly)

jmkc

Mon, 02/24/2014 - 10:29

Could leave the back panel of plywood out so you could reach what may fall behind? Then you would just have to pull the drawers out?

heverest

Wed, 06/22/2016 - 16:35

Back panel is very very structural and provides lot of strength. If i wanted more access than the 5-7 inch of duct space behind the pedestal gives me, then i would replace the back panel with a long 2x6, that holds the three legs from going in different directions due to all that weight.

dmccoy

Mon, 12/12/2016 - 14:58

This is the one modification I could make if i could redo these plans...I would still put on the back panel of plywood as it stabilizes the pedestal, I would just have cut out a rectangle (behind each drawer) so that I could remove the drawers and stick my hand/arm through to grab fallen clothes or vacuum the lint.

dachiri

Mon, 12/18/2017 - 19:17

Rather than cut holes in the back, I just cut the back and side boards a little small and left a gap around the bottom the whole way around.  That way I can get a vaccuum hose in there or reach through and get lost items.  Because my washer and dryer seem to be deeper than yours (I needed at least 33" depth, so I went with 3'), that also worked out well in getting the most out of the boards.  I could do the top, back, and sides out of one single sheet of good 3/4" plywood just leaving those small gaps at the bottom for clean-up and retreival.

Jperera

Fri, 11/20/2015 - 05:23

Hello,

I downloaded the pdf but have exactly the same information that the website html, where can I find a solution step by step guide?

Thank you for all the interesting posts.

Outdoor Recording Studio Shed Build

Submitted by brittanyj on Wed, 09/01/2021 - 10:48

As an on camera actor, I found myself with zero work during the pandemic. All productions were shut down and my day job no longer existed. It was time to get creative.
Voice over work started booming, particularly for actors who could record from home, because recording studios were shut down. I've dabbled a bit in voice over and had been interested in diving in and took my first step by buying a sound reducing booth called a whisper room.

The problem? There was nowhere in our house to to put the 6'x8' booth. So it sat on the back porch for months, covered by a tarp.
For a woodworker, this just wouldn't do! It was time to build an out building to house the booth and have my own outdoor recording studio. I read endless books and watched videos on building recording studios and made my plans over a few months.

Finally, in March, I excavated the land and prepped it for a pour. We had a concrete guy come in and pour the slab.

As soon as that set, I began work from the ground up in building this fancy shed. It took me 3 months, but I learned so much about the basics of building a house, and now I am auditioning for professional projects in my beautiful studio. I couldn't be prouder.

I ran electric, ethernet, I put in flooring, I roofed, drywalled, made a custom door threshold, inserted a window and framed every last bit of this building. There were bumps along the way- to be expected in a one person build- but she's done and ready for work.

I documented the build from start to finish here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yPcEW6cqhcQ

Comments

Lounge Chair

Modified the arm rest and the back to my liking. 

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

gmhurley

Tue, 06/23/2020 - 08:59

Hi, are plans available for this modified chair design? I like that the seat pan appears to be flat and the Adirondack style to the back slate.

Western Upholstered Bench

Submitted by deskjockie on Sat, 04/16/2011 - 18:20

I've been wanting a bench for the foot of my bed for a long time, but could not find one I wanted at a price I wanted to pay.  When I saw Ana's Upholstered Bench, it was just what I'd been looking for!  I went out to the barn and scrounged some lumber, and then, because I am not comfortable using a circle cut saw, but I am comfortable using a table saw, I went online and found some videos on how to make a taper cut jig for a table saw and used that method to cut the tapers on the legs.  I finished cutting out the frame and then sanded, stained and tung oiled the legs.  My husband helped me assemble the frame and then I upholstered it.  I am redoing my bedroom in a 'western' theme, and I used the remnant of the same faux suede  fabric we used on the headboard.  I added the nailheads but apparently I chose some that are only carried in one store in the area, so I'm having to wait a week for them to restock since I bought all they had! Then I'll add the rest to the front.

I am delighted with how it turned out!  It not only looks good, it's really sturdy, and since I have less than $20 in out-of-pocket expenses, it sure beats those high priced benches!  Thanks, Ana, you are a real inspiration to this 61-year-old grandma!

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$20.00
Finish Used
Minwax Walnut, Tung Oil Satin
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Ana White Greenhouse

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Wed, 04/06/2022 - 12:41

We built the first one about 8 years ago, and then the wind flipped it over and scattered it all over the back part of the property. I then dug footings and anchored the second one down; I was able to save the Dutch Door I made for the first one. Thanks for the plans!!!

Built from Plan(s)

Comments

Seasonal And Holiday

Farmhouse Toy Box

Submitted by frmoody on Thu, 08/18/2022 - 15:01

My second build from Ana's toy box plan. I had my son use his CNC machine to carve boy's name into the front. Depth of the letters is about 0.25". Looks really good.

Built from Plan(s)

Comments

Farmhouse Table with Reclaimed Lumber Top

We found this beautifully chippy lumber on the side of the road and snagged it knowing it would make a perfect table top someday.  When I decided to build a table for our back patio makeover, I knew exactly what I had to make the top out of.  

This was my very first build and the pocket hole plans made it so much easier than I thought it would be!  I built the top first then modified the cut list dimensions based on the top.  I also flipped the ends around so the braces would show on the inside instead of the outside.  

I seriously can't get enough of the top, it's so pretty and I don't have to worry about it at all since it's already wonderfully rustic.  The table fits six chairs perfectly.  We are looking forward to having many evenings around this table with family and friends!

Estimated Cost
$100
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
On the base, I applied two coats of Sherwin-Williams' SuperDeck solid stain in "Caribou" then sealed it with Minwax Spar Urethane clear satin with a sprayer.

For the top, I sealed the underside with Thompson's Water Seal clear waterproofer, and have plans to seal the top with Miss Mustard Seed's Tough Coat Sealer (http://missmustardseed.com/2015/09/cleaning-sealing-chipping-antique-pieces/)
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

Patio couch

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Mon, 04/03/2023 - 08:09

I have been looking at your blog and always been interested in making my own furniture. However, I was scared to try. Your diagrams and measurements were awesome. Thank you! Gave me the encouragement to try!

Built from Plan(s)

Comments

Sturdy Workbench Sink

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Mon, 05/01/2023 - 09:57

Used sturdy workbench plans with 2x6 cedar top for outdoor sink. Turned out much better than I expected!!

Built from Plan(s)

Comments

Over the toilet medicine cabinet / storage

Submitted by skyzen on Tue, 11/19/2013 - 17:06

I recently discovered your blog and got really inspired. After building a couple of beginner projects following your plans, i started to think about making something that can be used as medicine cabinet and does not take much space. Came up with the idea for this over the toilet storage rack.

My goal was to recycle/reuse some of the stuff that was sitting in my garage.
Started with building a frame using 1x6s (24 inch for shelves and 72 inch height). Used plastic table mats were used as sliding windows. Found a PVC trim (8 ft) for $2 at lowes that has been used as the rails/track for the windows. The back is piece of cardbord that was scrap from an old broken ikea bookshelf.

I am pretty happy that i recycled some stuff and made this in less than $15.

Estimated Cost
$15
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Finish Used
Minwax Bombay Mahogany Satin
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

kevinwdavies

Tue, 12/01/2020 - 14:20

Did you do anything to the bottoms of the legs to prevent wet floors from wicking into the wood? I am wanting to build something similar to replace a particle board cabinet-in-a-box because the particle board did soak up water and get ruined. What I'd REALLY like are metal end caps with an adjustable foot (like you put at the bottom of a table leg) but I can't find a combination of the two anywhere.

Kitchen Island Butcher Block

Submitted by nick837 on Thu, 11/21/2013 - 15:23

This "island" was inspired by the plans for the Easy Kitchen Island, with a bit of a twist. My roommate is really into cooking, and had a little butcher block that he wanted to upgrade. Our kitchen is fairly narrow, but there was a huge bare spot underneath some cabinets that was begging to be used. Our cabinets were overflowing and we needed more storage space. The kitchen island-butcher block combo solved both problems and fit nicely under our cabinet.

After a little research, we decided to go with an end-grain board made with maple. We looked around and ended up getting a bunch of wood off of eBay for about 65 bucks. The butcher block turned out to be a bear of a project. Without access to a table saw (not going to happen in this apartment) it took some sanding, then more sanding, then a trip to my dad's to use a table saw after all, then more sanding, then more...well, you get the picture. Once all the pieces were assembled, we glued a 1"x4" poplar border onto the sides to give it a more uniform appearance from the sides, as well as to hide the connection to the structure.

Finally the block was complete and it was time to build the structure of the island. The cuts and the assembly of the main pieces took a grand total of an hour and a half - a great relief after spending weeks on the butcher block. We decided to glue the slats onto the supports to make life easier. Once we got done with that it was time to finish the structure.

We decided to follow Ana's directions on crackled milk paint. We tried to follow them exactly, but weren't able to get the same amount of crackling on ours. No worries, though, we just sanded down some edges and gave the whole thing a good coat of Polycrylic.

Once all that was done, we screwed the block on and construction was complete! We gave the block and the poplar several coats of Boos Block Mystery Oil as the conditioner and we were done. The oil really brought out the color and the body of the wood, and we couldn't be happier with the results. Can't wait to chop a turkey on it!

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
145
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Minwax Gel Stain, Minwax Polycrylic, Old Fashioned Milk Paint, Boos Block Mystery Oil
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

JoanneS

Fri, 11/22/2013 - 15:38

This looks super! I'm intrigued by your butcher block top. The squares look so perfect and even. It looks like a tremendous amount of work went into it, and it's absolutely beautiful! Love the paint and stain used on the island structure too!

King Farmhouse Bed

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Tue, 10/01/2019 - 21:30

Fun weekend project to build together. We are loving the fresh look to our master bedroom.

Estimated Cost
350
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
General Finishes Snow White milk paint with Satin Topcoat
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

Raised Cedar Beds

THANK YOU Ana's your plans are a life saver and pocket book saver as well. You make your plans so easy to follow and use. For my project I used the cedar fence pickets and redwood 2" x 2" stakes that where on sale at the orange box store for "6 pack bundle" for only $.50 each. All I can say is SCORE! ;') Since we live in Arizona I treated all the lumber with a outdoor weather proofing wood finish (Cedar Color), lined all the interior beds (only the Wood Sides) with 4 mil plastic to keep the cedar from absorbing all the water and wired mesh on the bottom of the garden prior to adding dirt. This keeps my local rabbits/other creatures from eating my roots from the bottom up. And I have my dog from the top side. We are already a 100 degrees here and we needed to get our seedlings in a garden asap. Thanks Again for the Plans, Ana! I will be making more of these garden boxes to come.

Estimated Cost
$15
Estimated Time Investment
An Hour or Two (0-2 Hours)
Finish Used
Behr Premium Transparent Weather Proofing Wood Finish (Cedar Color)
Recommended Skill Level
Starter Project

Comments

Mariel

Thu, 08/08/2013 - 09:39

Love this! We are new to Phoenix - originally from the Midwest - and I really would like to add some raised beds to our backyard. I appreciate your comments on how you adapted these for the desert! May I ask what side of your house they are on? I'm thinking to put mine on the east side so they get morning sun, but not the scorching afternoon rays. Thanks for your AZ advice!

Seasonal And Holiday

A-Frame Chicken Coop (with modifications)

Submitted by anniejw17 on Mon, 07/02/2012 - 18:39

We followed the plans for the A-frame chicken coop very closely, and then modified it a bit at the end.

1. Trim was added to two doors on each side, as suggested. They are secured with latches at the top, more to keep them from falling open than to keep critters from getting in. We used 2x4x10's instead of 2x4x8's on the middle horizontal rail, giving us foot-long handles on each side. My husband and I are able to move the coop about 15 feet at a time, which is pretty good considering it is STURDY!

2. We used 1/2" galvanized hardware cloth instead of chicken wire, as suggested by one commenter (and lots of others in blogland).

3. I cut 1/4" plywood to fit the loft space and coated it with vinyl stick-on tile. This should make it easier to clean. We didn't screw down the plywood, so if we have to, we can remove it to hose it off/scrub it.

4. I cut a triangle of plywood to make an egg door at the end of the roost. It hinges at the bottom (with a 2x4 ripped into a 1x4 to cover the hardware cloth and provide a mounting spot for hinges) and latches at the top. I plan to use cotter pins or something to secure the latch. There is also a piece of untreated 1x4 held in place with tabs at the egg door to prevent bedding from falling out once it's converted to the nesting box (I'm planning to get pullets, not ready to lay yet, so they won't even have a tempting nest box)

5. There was no bottom door in the plans (to allow free-ranging), so I cut a piece of 2x4 to make a triangle against the bottom (same size as the egg door). It folds out (just like the egg door) and will allow the chickens easy access to the yard. We do have hawks in our neighborhood so free time will always be supervised. We also have a dog (who I coaxed into the coop for the main picture, haha!) who will need supervising. She's been around chickens before but you never know what will make her turn on them!

6. There was also no roost in the plans (although if you look at Ana's coop, there is a 2x4 across the middle of the side walls). I had a leftover closet rod, so I mounted that in the covered section parallel to the ladder. The ladder was shifted to the side. For the ladder, I just used a piece of cedar fencing and cut 2 48" dowels into 4 pieces each, and secured those with screws from the underside. I hope my chickens will be able to get up the ladder!

7. I also made a tube feeder from PVC and a dog bowl, and am working on a nipple waterer. Will update post when those are finished!

Now I just have to get some hens! I've been searching craigslist and can't wait!

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
200
Estimated Time Investment
Day Project (6-9 Hours)
Finish Used
Unfinished except for plywood floor (vinyl stick-on tile) and plywood doors (white exterior acrylic paint)
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

Beer Wall for Wedding

My cousin recently got married and wanted a beer wall at her wedding. I quickly searched Ana's site for the perfect plan and chose the Tall Panel Headboard for my starting point. With a few modifications it became a beer wall in no time at all. I love how Ana's plans can be easily modified to make a totally different project.

No fancy wood was used here. Just regular wood from the big box store. A jockey box was attached to the back side of the wall. It worked awesome!

Since I discovered this site in January, I've made close to 30 items from her plans. I'm ridiculously addicted and not just with Ana's site but also with her blog friends. For Valentine's Day I asked for a Air Strike gun and got it. It was better than jewelry and chocolates! I'm well on my way to collecting my own tools and learning how to save money by making it myself. Oh, and I can't even begin to tell you how impressed everyone is with my finished products.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
roughly $200.00
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Valspar paint from Lowes
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate
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