Community Brag Posts

Corner unit for kids bedroom. Added fabric boxes from ikea. The fit perfectly 

Project took a lot more time and patience than the last few little ones that I have done. I like the simple outdoor table but wanted a little bit more. I used the basic concept and mixed it with a patio table from PB that I really enjoyed but didnt want to pay $800 for. The table looks fantastic and am still debating on what type of finish, if any, to use. Hoping to make the matching bench soon for one of the sides of the table.

My wife and I loved the version that Finns-Dad made but we wanted it to be rectangular. The top is 1x6s around the edges with 1x4s in between. The frame is 1x4s. The bench tops are all 1x4s with 4x4 legs. There are 3/8 inch lag bolts in the legs. We did 4 coats of the urethane.

This was my first major project, and while there are many things that I would do differently if given the opportunity, we're still very pleased with it.

This was a fun project. Easy instructions great piece of furniture. It is very sturdy. I'm a beginner at DIY wood projects so this was a rewarding project.

We used the plans for the Farmhouse Table Knockoff similar to the one from RH, to build this table. We made some changes, and some hints:

1. The table is made of Cedar, as it will be used outside. Pine is just not an outdoor-friendly material, but Cedar is rather insect-proof. This will be used at a beach house.

2. We used 1x, not 2x on the top. The top just seemed to clunky with the 2x size. Plus, it's near impossible to find 2x in cedar.

3. We couldn't find 8x1 or 8x2 for the breadboard, so we used 6x1 (same as the table top).

4. We measured the length of the breadboard before we cut. I"m glad my husband made that suggestion because I found the seven (7) 1x6's totaled 38 3/4, not 38 1/2 as the plans call for. So it really does depend on the wood and humidity and such. So I think it's a wise decision to measure the width of all of the boards before you cut that piece.

5. We did not screw into the table top as recommended by the plans.

I made this cabinet to house my murphy bed.  I used the Toy or TV Armoire plans as a start and adjusted the measurements as needed.

Modified the plans for a full size mattress, also used 2x6 lumber for the main frame. Installed LED strip lighting around the perimeter for a night light. Also built my own headboard, modified for the full size. I used laminate flooring for the center inlay.

Fun project, about 6 hours to build, total cost around $200 with the lighting.

Built in May of 2020, made some modifications to install a fan unit. Has raised beds left and right.

Moltzvt

Hello Everyone! This is my FIRST brag post here on Ana-White.com - but not the first project that we've built from her awesome plans. :) 

We have an unfinished basement that desperately needed some shelving because 1. It's our workshop in the Winter and 2. We don't have an official 'storage' room in the basement of our split level home. When I saw these plans I immediately thought they could be modified to fit our space and get my stuff off the floor! 

I modified the plans just enough to fit our space. After reading through them completely, I realized for an 8 ft wide space (beside the stairs) I only needed three supports for the shelves. Easy! The only trick was fitting the shelf into the space AFTER installing the shelves. Because I had walls on two sides (unlike the tutorial) I couldn't do the shelves as the last step. 

I LOVE how these turned out! They are a strong as a ladder (we tested them... :)) and they hold everything I need them to, and a little bit more. It's a definite improvement on my previously messy, cluttered, saw-dust covered space ... :) 

This was a pretty easy build. This was my first project and this looked like a pretty straightforward plan. I read over it several times before deciding what to do. I didn't like that it was held together using only screws. I anticipated that these beds will be moved several times over their lifetime and I did want to hassle with the screws stripping out the wood. Instead I used a 3/8 bolt and washer/nut set up so I could take the bed apart without worrying about stripping out the wood with screws. This necessitated drilling several large unsightly holes at the connection points. To help disguise this I trimmed it out using door casing and finished it out by staining the whole bed. The result was a classic look that will last my daughter's lifetime.

I will note that I changed a few parameters. I routed and the edges including the slats with a rounded corner edge. I used a 2x6 for the top cap of the head/footboards. With the addition of the trim work and bolt hardware, this did change the overall cost of the project. Total cost was probably close to $200. Had I stuck strictly to the plans I would have been closer to $100.

I made this coop twice as wide like Ana suggested since I have 4 chickens and wanted to make sure there was some extra wiggle room in case “chicken math” got the best of us. I made a nesting box to mount on the outside. I also used plywood for the sides like Ana did in the video. I installed a Run Chicken automatic door that opens at sunrise and closes at sunset. I added some hasps and clasps to make sure all my doors would close tightly. I put hardware cloth across the top before installing the roof panels. I stapled and buried hardware cloth around the perimeter for predator protection. I also spray painted the hardware cloth flat black so that it would be easier for us to see inside the coop. I stained the rest of the wood with Varathane Semi-Transparent stain, color “Carbon Gray.” I also added some roosts and cedar shingle siding for some extra protection during our New England winters at to match our house. Working 2-4 hours a day, off and on, with a bum shoulder and weak hands, this took me about a week! Thanks for the great plan, Ana!

2nd project, but learning quickly! :)

I first started with the wall treatment, love board and batten walls, they add such a crisp look and tons of character, but then the entry way was a little bare. So I needed a table for our keys and some lighting...so this table was perfect, narrow and Pottery Barn looking...

It took about 1 hour to build, including cuts and everything....the staining was the task...my God was I impatient!
I started with the wood conditioner, which only gives you a 2 hour window to add the stain, but do need to wait 15 minutes to start...then I did 2 coats of dark walnut stain and after 8 hours of drying time came in the top coat...which takes 4 hours to dry and then a 2nd coat needed to be added (which I skipped) but I love the color, love the turn out.

So light, I carried it ALL by myself. :)

Great plans!  I modified the bench by adding a slanted back (which enabled me to put the slats closer together), extending and curving the front of the arms and extended the seat to the outside of the legs.

This is my build of the sliding door console. I built this for my wife after she insisted we needed this for our dining room. The build overall was pretty easy, after my wife decided to change the paint color 3 times (yes, after we had bought the gallons, and I had it completely painted every time). I will say though that if you plan on painting this then you should use plywood for the front facing boards of the frame. I built mine over the course of about a month and after I had painted it I noticed significant wood shrinkage on the areas where boards came together. Plywood shrinks minimally if any at all so it should take care of that issue.

P.S. Don’t mind the unfinished construction in the background, we are in the process of installing bigger baseboards, and the planked walls are still unfinished.