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Pottery Barn benchwright farmhouse dining table

Submitted by Nathan1342 on Sat, 05/19/2012 - 21:57

UPDATE: For everyone that was asking to see additional photos, I have uploaded them all to flickr. Here is the link: HERE Since doing this table I have built probably 15 more just like this one and developed a much better process then in the pictures above.  If you have any questions or want to chat about it further shoot me a comment or email at [email protected].

I had originally seen this table on the Pottery Barn website. My wife and I really liked it but couldn't afford to pay the $1200 bucks after tax and shipping. it didn't look to difficult to build so I decided to give it a shot. The wood for the top of the table was almost 3in thick 4.5in wide and 51in long. It was wood from an old pallet that was used to transport a very large air handler. Very heavy dense wood. Since the lengths were only 51 inches I opted to put 2 horizontal pieces on either side to extend the total length to approx 70in. I was inspired by the plans for the benchwright table that I saw on this site but chose to deviate from the plans on here to make it as close to the real thing as possible. I also happen to have access to very thick pieces of hardwood. The only thing I had to buy at lowes were the legs. The legs are 4x4 Douglas fir posts. The top pieces were all glued and screwed together. The ends were also done this way but had a very large lag bolt that held them together to match the pottery barn table. This was originally very rough wood so anything to help get the warp out was used. The legs are set at a 10 degree angle and the table stand 30 in tall. The hardest part of this table was finding the turnbuckle and the threaded rods so it could officially be 99% like the pottery barn table. I also had no idea how hard it was to find left hand threaded anything. I ended up finding everything I need at McMaster.com and my local Fastenal store. To make the brackets that went on either side of the rods i simply bought a piece of 1/8 sheet metal at my local Home depot and cut it to size. They also sold hammered brown paint which gave the metal a worked old look. Once this was all constructed I used two heavy coats of wood conditioner to seal the wood. This was the key to getting the color I wanted. It tells you on the can not to let the wood conditioner dry on the wood but if it does, when you apply the stain you get a 100% consistent color. Worked wonders. It almost felt like I was cheating. I used a water based condition and stained it with rustoleums "dark walnut" stain. Finished it with 5 coats of minwax semi gloss. I only did 5 coats because I was brushing it on and had trouble getting the bubbles out of it. In the final picture it looks much shinier then it is in person. The last picture of when it was still in my garage is a better indication of the final finish. I have a boat load of additional picture, so if you have any questions or want to see more pictures of how it was constructed, shoot me a message. Thanks!

Built from Plan(s)
Benchright Industrial Farmhouse Table
Estimated Cost
300
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Minwax Semi-gloss
Rustoleum Dark Walnut Stain
Minwax water based wood conditioner
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

Bunnie1978

Sun, 05/20/2012 - 08:16

I've had trouble with bubbles too... I have two pieces of advice for your next bubble-free project...
1. Get a sprayer. Seriously.
2. If you don't get a sprayer, use the foam pad-brushes for your final layer of poly. Put the last layer on thick and use the largest side of the brush (the side) and lay it down over the wood and drag it slowly accross with the whole large surface on the wood. If it is soaked in poly it will lay it down smooth with little if any bubbles, keep the surface you're working on flat, and after you've finished that, just make sure you clean up any edges where the poly may have dripped down. Last step, when it's almost dry, use 600 grit sandpaper to VERY lightly smooth out any little bumbs, which will come off more like paste than dust. But really, you should just get a sprayer. :)

Nathan1342

Sun, 05/20/2012 - 17:42

Hey Bunnie,

Thanks for the tips! I completely agree with you about the sprayer. I do actually have a sprayer but didn't want to get the garage covered in over spray. Maybe one of these days I will get ambitious and apply another coat. :)

Bunnie1978

Sun, 05/20/2012 - 19:22

My whole living room is covered in overspray right now... just got a sprayer and used it for the first time this weekend. LOL. I don't have a garage.

SawgrassHomeGirl

Sun, 05/20/2012 - 09:35

This is awesome! Can you give more direction as to which specific items you got at mcmaster.com and Fastenal?

Also, how did you attach the sheet metal pieces? If you have any more pictures of the underside (frame) of the table, I'd love to see them!

Thank you very much, and again, this is spectacular. We want to try to build this, too.

Great job!

Cindy from Indiana (not verified)

Sun, 05/20/2012 - 10:38

Love it! This project turned out great and I love how you tracked down the hardware - that finishes it off perfectly!

Like SawgrassHomeGirl, I'm wondering what the actual names of the items are that you tracked down. I went and paged through the McMaster and Fastenal sites, but since I'm completely unfamiliar with mechanical doodads I'm not even sure which categories to look under.

Fantastic job! Thanks for posting this!

Nathan1342

Sun, 05/20/2012 - 18:13

Thank you for the nice comments. This was my first official project so I am happy that it turned out well!

Sure! I'd be happy to know the names of the hardware items. At Mcmaster.com the turnbuckle I purchased was Item number 30045T44 . It is about 6in long and seemed to fit nicely with the length of the table. the rods were just simply threaded rods which I purchased at fastenal since we have a few of their stores in town. The rods come in 6 ft pieces so I didn't want to have to pay the shipping. If you don't have a Fastenal near by here are the item numbers for the rods; 90322A220 -right hand threaded rod and 95625A160 - left hand threads. They are a bit more expensive at mcmaster though.

The biggest thing I was worried about was that the entire rod had threads on it so I was worried that it would look odd. But after getting it painted you don't even notice that it isn't just a solid pipe.

Sawgrass: shoot me your email address and I'll send you some more pictures. This site only allows me to post 5 additional photos. But to elaborate on the frame and the metal pieces, I didn't' really build a frame for it. You can essentially break it down into two pieces: Top and the legs. Instead of building a frame and screwing the pieces down on it, I opted to screw each of the pieces together using a Kreg tool and also glue them. the wood was heavy enough to support everything without an elaborate internal structure. The two end pieces help keep things from warping. The only reinforcement I did for the top was to take 3 2x4's and screw them horizontally on the underside. You will be able to see all of this in the pictures. As for the metal pieces, i drilled 5 holes in each piece. 4 holes for the screws that hold it to the leg region and one half inch hole in the middle for the rod to go through. I have a bunch of close ups of this process so you should be able to get a very good idea of how things work. Overall I tried to keep everything as simple as possible.

Thanks for all the interest and if anyone has anymore questions please don't hesitate to ask!

Cindy from Indiana (not verified)

Tue, 05/22/2012 - 09:01

Thank you so much for taking the time to answer our questions! You did a fantastic job on this table and I am adding it to my ever-growing list of projects to do!

Now I'm off to find that hardware. :-)

Thanks, again!

lillylamp

Fri, 11/08/2013 - 06:33

My e-mail is [email protected]
My husband is making this table for Thanksgiving dinner. We are expecting 14 people so he is making the table a total of 12 feet long! Any input or pictures will be greatly appreciated!
Lisa and Gary Peters
Angola, IN

aclisto

Fri, 09/05/2014 - 14:53

Could you send me the more pictures link?  Great job!  goldmoon8(@)hotmail(dot)com

Destiny (not verified)

Tue, 05/22/2012 - 16:58

So i wanna build this table this summer, could you shoot me some more pictures of the designs and actual steps for building it. i absolutely love it, and i hope mine comes out as good as yours!

Robert (not verified)

Sat, 05/26/2012 - 13:13

This has been on my to do list for a while now, but I haven't been able to work out the hardware details like you did. I would love to get some more pictures especially of the underside and of your rod to stretcher connection. Thanks again and you did an amazing job!

Bulldog1Jack

Fri, 04/25/2014 - 18:43

Nathan,
Can you send me the link for the other photos...table is awesome.
Thanks
John

Aubrey (not verified)

Sat, 05/26/2012 - 17:54

I love this table! I am new to this site and to building, but I want this to be my first project. Could you possibly email me the detailed pics and plans also so I can get started? :) Thanks so much!

ajmccallister

Tue, 05/29/2012 - 18:41

I am really inspired by the table you built. It looks like you built your legs with 4x4s. Did you drill through them to get the notch on the outside or did you do something else just to get the look? Great work!

Nathan1342

Tue, 05/29/2012 - 20:58

Hi Aj,

Yes, I did use 4x4's for the legs. It was much easier this way, did a great job achieving the heavy look I was interested in and was the closest I could come to the pottery barn table. To answer you question, no I did not drill through. I attached the 2x4 cross member with 2 leg screws from the outside of the 4x4 leg. I then cut a small piece of the 2x4 and nailed it over the lag screw holes to simulate the 2x4 cross member coming through. It looks just like I cut a hole and the whole thing is coming through. I get asked how I did it by people that see it in person because it doesn't look like a separate piece is just nailed on.

If you look at IMAG0306 and IMAG0308 on flickr you can see what it looks like without them on and if you look at the bottom left hand corner of the picture you can see the pieces that have been cut and not put on yet.

Sara (not verified)

Mon, 06/11/2012 - 06:48

Your table is gorgeous! I'm curious how much this cost for you to build (lumber and finish materials) and how much of an increase in cost do you think it would be if you had to purchase all the lumber?

Nathan1342

Mon, 06/11/2012 - 11:01

The Lower portion was probably about $200. The biggest expense was the threaded rods and the turnbuckle. The rods were about $30 each and the turnbuckle after shippping was about $20. The wood for the lefts and cross members were purchased at my local lowes so they were pretty cheap. As for the top, its hard to say since wood prices vary quite a bit between types and thickness. If you were to buy wood like I used you would probably have to visit a sawmill and see if you could get rough cut wood that is at least 2.5 inches thick. I would estimate $300 give or take. If you follow the plans that ana has setup for the top you don't necessarily need to get wood that is that thick. You can achieve close to the same look but just using 3/4 in pieces. I think if you look very closely at the pottery barn pictures, they do not use 100% solid wood either. But I wanted the heavy look and the solid appearance. So total you are probably looking at $500-$600. Hope this helps!

Curt (not verified)

Wed, 06/20/2012 - 11:28

Great job Nathan - I appreciate your workmanship on the table. You've answered one of my questions regarding the look of the cross member protuding thru the leg - slick idea. My other question - why all the large round holes in the bottom of the table? By the way, the dowel effect that you accomplished really pops. I too like the looks of the thicker boards. Thanks for posting an interesting and comprehensive article. Curt

Nathan1342

Thu, 06/21/2012 - 13:06

Those holes in the bottom of the table were there when the wood was salvaged. This was a pallet so they had it bolted together with large lag bolts. The bolts had large washers inset into the wood. The bolts were secured on the underside of the wood and went through every piece. Luckily, they were consistent and only bolted from one side.

Thanks!

Sara (not verified)

Tue, 07/10/2012 - 06:36

Thank you, Nathan, that really helps! Did I mention your table is beautiful?

leabea28

Fri, 08/03/2012 - 12:53

Hi Nathan,

Awesome table. I just hope I can find some 3" thick lumber without breaking the bank! It looks like you attached the legs by putting 2 bolts through the legs into the small apron on the short ends of the table. It also looks like you might have also put in some pocket holes on the inside of the legs, going straight down into the underneath of the table boards. Is that right? I am just wondering how sturdy it is, since it's such a heavy table.

Thanks!

Lea

Nathan1342

Mon, 08/06/2012 - 11:43

Yes, you are correct. I attached the legs with 2, 6inch lag bolts. I pre-drilled them at the correct angle (which I eye balled) and ratcheted them in. I was a little worried about them being sturdy enough so I went ahead and made a few pocket holes and secured it that was also. The legs overall are very sturdy. The table probably weights 150-200lbs and I was able to pick up one side of it only holding onto one leg. Table doesn't wobble at all. The cross member holding the legs together also helped pull everything together.

Thanks for the question! Feel free to ask any others!

Nathan

JenFarrell (not verified)

Sun, 08/12/2012 - 18:17

Fantastic table! Thanks for posting all the instructions and places to buy hardware. My husband and I can't wait to try this!

JenFarrell (not verified)

Sun, 08/12/2012 - 18:19

Fantastic table! Thanks for posting all the instructions and places to buy hardware. My husband and I can't wait to try this!

3RaysofSunshine

Fri, 08/24/2012 - 09:33

Nice work! I made bench seats in this style - maybe I'll post pics sometime too! I saw in your description that you used thick wood to be more like the original... just wanted to let you know that I have seen the "original" and yours is much better! Pottery barn does NOT use solid 3" wood for the top. If you look closely at the pics in their online catalog you can even tell... they use thin planks with a side piece to make them look thick. The only hefty piece is on the very end .

Also, I wanted to mention that I have had great luck with wipe-on polyurethane... never any bubbles. Just be sure to use lint free cloths and lots of thin layers.

Again, nice work!

3RaysofSunshine

Fri, 08/24/2012 - 10:05

I apply with a cloth. It takes many coats but they are so thin they dry fast. In between coats, I wet sand with 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper. After towel drying, I run my hand across the surface. You'll feel any spots you missed. Then use a tack cloth to pick up any dust (there's always some...) I get a perfect finish using this method. I'm sure spraying is great too... I just like not having another piece of equipment to clean!

My last project (a patio table) I had run out of the wipe-on poly and decided to use something else - whatever I had on hand. Grr! Not nearly as nice looking so I'm doing it over. I'll post pictures of a few projects as soon as I can figure out how.

greenebeansmom (not verified)

Sun, 11/18/2012 - 21:15

Why cant my husband make stuff......booooooooo! Wonderful table I am so jealous lol.

Shannan with an A

Tue, 04/16/2013 - 16:34

Before I clicked on your brag photo, I really thought it WAS a Pottery Barn table posted for comparison! Wow, that is beautiful!!!

Nathan1342

Thu, 05/02/2013 - 15:04

Hey Lea,

It was only 1/8 in thick metal so a simple jig saw with a metal bit worked great. Wear eye protection though. It shoots off all sorts of hot metal bits. To drill the holes I just used a power drill with a metal bit. Make sure you drill 100% straight or the bit will bind and jerk the drill right out of your hand. Ideally, a drillpress would work much better since I nearly broke my wrist on the second large hole.

Let me know if you have any other questions!

Thanks,

tcoche

Sat, 06/01/2013 - 20:36

The table looks awesome man! Love it. I just got done building the benchright table to Ana Whites plan, see mine here http://ana-white.com/2013/05/farmhouse-benchright-table-build-0

I just ordered the left hand threaded rod, right hand threaded rod and turnbuckle from McMaster.com...total cost for all 3 was 22 bucks. Here are the McMaster part numbers:
90036A033- left hand rod
98841A033- right hand rod
30045T44- galvanized turnbuckle

I'll hopefully get the rods and turnbuckle this week so I can totally complete this project.

Again, awesome job nathan!!!

CoreyOrvold

Sat, 07/13/2013 - 22:28

What a great table. We plan on starting ours soon but are having trouble find large bolts for the table top sides. What size did you use and where did you find them?

2x4 and 2x6 Chairs and Couch

Submitted by clintusaf on Mon, 05/11/2020 - 16:43

I used the Modern Outdoor Chair from 2x4s and 2x6s plans and slightly modified then to make a 3 seater couch. My cushions(most expensive part) were 24 in x 24 in and purchased from Lowes for $40 per seat. The couch is 79 inches in total length. I also dropped the seat down to the lower level to allow more room for my cushion backs to sit further down into the seat.

Built from Plan(s)
Modern Outdoor Chair from 2x4s and 2x6s
Modern Outdoor Loveseat from 2x4s and 2x6s
Estimated Cost
$400
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Thompsons Waterseal Teak Oil Walnut Semi-Transparent
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Modern Adirondack Chair Set

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Wed, 06/10/2020 - 17:25

I used 5 5/8 fence pickets I had in the scrap box to give the chairs a wider arm rest. I wanted something wide enough to safely hold a paper plate and drinks.
I planned them, routered the edges and put a coat of oil based polyurethane on them.
The table is just something I put together and the top is a 1.5 inch thick 16x16 concrete paver.
If you like the wide arms, use wood glue and clamps, not nails or screws. Saves you from having to fill them and it looks better too.
Enjoy
And thank you Anna for a great build!

Built from Plan(s)
Modern Easy Build Adirondack Chair
Estimated Cost
$60
Estimated Time Investment
Day Project (6-9 Hours)
Finish Used
Exterior paint and oil based polyurethane
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate
Seasonal And Holiday
Spring
Summer

Adirondack chair from Pallets

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Fri, 03/24/2017 - 19:42

I decided to try and use the plans on Ana's site but with a twist. I wanted to limit myself to using only pallets. I think it turned out great! I can't upload all the photos because they exceed the maximum size limit. If I was able to you could see how each chair is slightly different and has a lot of character. I finished them with a waterproofing oil which I highly recommend over other finishes. 

Blog Link
JC Carpentry
Built from Plan(s)
Heavy Duty Adirondack Chair Plans with Back Leg and Footstool
Estimated Cost
$10 for screws.
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Finish Used
Cabot oil
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

Twin Sleeper Chair

Submitted by Hoff7.62 on Sat, 06/04/2022 - 15:20

This was my take on your Twin Sleeper Chair. I made it into a full. I used 2x4’s where there was suppose to be 1x4’s because I changed the width. This was a very fun project, my first project actually. Thank you for the plans and idea.

Built from Plan(s)
Twin Sleeper Chair

Comments

Vintage Step Stools

Submitted by nmnguyen7 on Wed, 01/18/2012 - 12:11

This was our first build. My husband and I really enjoyed working on these! The build went very quickly and the plans were well-detailed. The painting was the most time-consuming part!

Built from Plan(s)
Essential Two Step Stool
Estimated Cost
$30 for the two
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Finish Used
We used oops paints from Home Depot, a pink and a blue that just happened to coordinate with each other very well!
Recommended Skill Level
Starter Project

Wood Storage Box

Submitted by Joni on Sun, 03/18/2012 - 10:42

My wood scraps were definitely getting out of control, and I needed something to store the wood vertically. I had some spare wood (free from Craigslist), so I put together a wood storage bin. All in all, the project cost me the price of some Kreg screws.

Estimated Cost
Free!
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

hoffer5353

Wed, 06/06/2012 - 13:21

I have been struggling to organize my space because my lumber is on one of my work spaces. I have the perfect space for that, thanks for the great post!

Live Edge Custom Built Entryway Bench

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Fri, 08/25/2023 - 11:01

Entryway Bench. I customized the plan with a maple live edge top and a fourth bay that had to be modified to extend the right side of bench down to lower level floor. Worked out perfectly! I am a total amateur woodworker but impressed with how easy it was and how professional it looks.

web: floatingislandsstudio.com

Blog Link
Floating Islands Studio on Instagram
Built from Plan(s)
Essential Entryway Bench

Wardrobe closet

Submitted by jd4300 on Mon, 04/27/2020 - 04:58

Built this based off the french wardrobe closet. Thanks for the inspiration. Lots of sanding and painting

Estimated Cost
250
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Interrior swiss coffe.
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Garden Tool Storage Rack

Submitted by kwildman on Tue, 04/28/2020 - 20:45

This isn't an Ana White plan but I've learned so much from this site that I designed and built this garden tool rack. Its pine 2x4 construction. I love it!

It is 84" tall x 72" long x 26 wide (opening) and 48"wide for garden tool hangers.

Blog Link
White House Wood Shop
Built from Plan(s)
DIY Garage Shelves [Freestanding]
Estimated Cost
100
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Finish Used
No finish
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

4x4 Truss beam/Providence altered outdoor table

Submitted by Sdsbwc on Mon, 06/02/2014 - 08:11

I've always wanted a wooden outdoor table for our patio. This site has inspired my husband and I to finally make our own. We combined the 4x4 Truss beam table design with the Providence table design, and created this cedar table that can seat 10. My husband built it and I stained it with Behr transparent cedar naturaltone stain. It only took about 6 hours for my husband to build despite all our measurements are different than the original designs due to change in table size and the wood size purchased. Sanding took about hour to 2 and then follow by a wash. Staining took 3 hours since I did double layers. It turned out amazing and we can't wait to put it to use! Thanks Ana for making these plans available.

Built from Plan(s)
4x4 Truss Beam Table
2x4 Truss Style Farm Table
Estimated Cost
$300
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Behr transparent cedar naturaltone
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Entryway Bench and Coat Hook Storage

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Sat, 12/21/2024 - 13:34

Used the Banquette bench plans with mudroom locker plans, to make a beautiful reading nook and mudroom storage for the kids backpacks. Plenty of storage for everyday life. - Clay Roffer

Built from Plan(s)
Banquette Bench with Flip Up Storage - Customizable Size and Shape
Mudroom Locker Hutches - How to Build in Any Size
Seasonal And Holiday
Back 2 School
Fall
Spring
Summer

Little Farmhouse Action

Submitted by SamWiseMan on Fri, 06/07/2013 - 21:34

I used 2x8s for the tabletop and bench tops, with 1x4 to frame it. The legs on the table are 2x4 times 2 to look like 4x4 (can only find them treated around here). I messed up in my calculations on the benches. I intended to do the same with the legs there, but was forced to do 2x4. I don't like it as much, but they will do fine. The table is stained in Rustoleum Kona, used a wire brush to make it look rough, and then sanded it a little bit. The bottom is actually spray painted in Ivory.

Built from Plan(s)
Farmhouse Bench - No Pocket Holes Version
Benchright Industrial Farmhouse Table
Estimated Cost
$100
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Rustoleum's Kona water-based stain and Rustoleum's matte finish poly. Rustoleum spray painted bottom in Ivory.
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

basteeley

Fri, 04/08/2016 - 16:09

This is a most difficult site. I have signed in and would love to have the plan for the Little Farmhouse Action table and bench for outside use by SamWiseMan.

Deck Chairs

Submitted by mgb11184 on Thu, 07/21/2022 - 19:54

I made a couple of additions/modifications

I also made a couple of side tables and foot stools for the chairs. A total of four chairs, two tables and two foot stools for the deck set.

Built from Plan(s)
Essential Wood Outdoor Chair Frame for Deep Seat Cushion

Comments

Farmhouse Toy Box

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Thu, 03/21/2019 - 11:28

Picture of my own version of the Ana White Design linked here
http://www.ana-white.com/2017/01/DIY_furniture/farmhouse-style-toy-box-…

Added Gas Shocks from Amazon 100N/18lbs.

Built from Plan(s)
Farmhouse Toy Box
Simple Modern Toy Box with Lid
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
White Paint
Minwax Espresso
Minwax Red Mahogany
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Outdoor Sofa and Chair with Slanted Back

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Sun, 07/16/2023 - 10:22

OK, I think this build may be my biggest project yet! It is definitely the heaviest. With the strong winds we can get here in Florida we needed substantial outdoor furniture.
I did make some modifications along the way measurement-wise so the sofa would fit my front porch better. All in all, this took 2 full days. I built the sofa first, stained it the next day and then decided (due to trying to get stain in all the nooks and crannies) to stain the chair pieces first before putting it together.
I am so happy with the results and so far, almost a year later, this furniture looks great and hasn't moved an inch in any of the thunderstorms we've had! Thank you Ana!!

Blog Link
The Simple Salty Life
Built from Plan(s)
Outdoor Sofa - Modern Comfort Collection

Vegetable Rack with Slide Out Trays

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Sat, 12/12/2020 - 05:12

This is the application of the "Vegetable Rack with Slide Out Trays" from Ana White.
I just added a door and some mosquito net, to avoid midges in summer.

Built from Plan(s)
Vegetable Rack with Slide Out Trays
Estimated Cost
100€
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
A mix of coconut oil and wax.
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

Bathroom sliding vanity

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Thu, 01/21/2021 - 16:58

I don’t know anything about carpentry but my wife seen this and told me that I can do it and I said no way so she trusted me and here it is. Mirror was bought at the Goodwill $2.00 thank you

Built from Plan(s)
Full Length Mirror with Sliding Storage Cabinet
Estimated Cost
30.00
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Finish Used
Varathane classic penetrating wood stain classic gray
Recommended Skill Level
Starter Project

Comments

Classic storage bed with farmhouse headboard

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Tue, 02/02/2021 - 12:54

Hubby and I finished our couples project. We combined the plans from the classic storage bed and the farmhouse headboard design. I love the storage aspect and the farmhouse style. We also converted the measurements to a california king size. The build is really sturdy, I know it will last the test of time.

Built from Plan(s)
Classic Storage Bed (King)
Farmhouse Bed - Standard King Size
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Paint and stain
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments