When I was 8 months pregnant and going through my “nesting phase” I knew I needed to get my garage organized. Prior to building this, my tools were all over the place. To try to get it done before the baby came, I called my dad to help me out, and we built it together in just a couple days. It was a weekend I will never forget and I smile every time I walk into my shop knowing we did it together.
First cabinet in my kitchen remodel.
My neighbors grand-daughter is about to turn 3 and I thought this would make a great present for her.. plus, when she saw it online while visiting me (I was checking the website as usual), she said "Oh, I NEED one of those!". I laughed and then that night went out and checked my scrap pile to see if I had everything I needed to build it.
Hidden door bookshelves hide a furnace closet. Built by Kraig Faulkner
Thu, 01/23/2020 - 07:05
Great idea! Do the bookshelves swing freely when weighed down with books? What type of hinges did you use?
Thu, 09/17/2020 - 08:01
I'm currently working on a basement renovation project. I'm probably going to incorporate a feature like this for my mechanicals, too.
One important safety note for anyone who wants to do this: It's recommended that your furnace be a minimum of 30" away from any combustible materials. That includes walls and partitions. The image of this project displayed is right next to the furnace, which is not a good idea.
This was my first attempt at building anything....ever. It was so incredibly fun and I certainly learned a lot. My 8 little chickens are loving their new home and I can't wait to build my next project!
Wed, 06/19/2013 - 11:51
Hello! Could you repost the picture / info on your chicken run? I keep getting "page not available" and I've been trying for days :O) I think I want to build that chicken shed (too big for 3 hens?? It's just so cute!) and a run like that to go with it! Thanks! Have a great day!
Wed, 06/19/2013 - 11:51
Hello! Could you repost the picture / info on your chicken run? I keep getting "page not available" and I've been trying for days :O) I think I want to build that chicken shed (too big for 3 hens?? It's just so cute!) and a run like that to go with it! Thanks! Have a great day!
Awesome mechanic's workbench with sweet mods!
Good plans and easy construction. Thanks!
Thu, 08/08/2013 - 08:54
Planning to build a set like this for my new patio. The angles on the bench legs don't appear to be 45s. Could you share a few detail about them? Thanks!
A farmhouse table I built based on one of your inspiration projects! All by hand and chiseled myself 😍
Thu, 12/29/2022 - 11:13
Thank you for sharing, such a beautiful handmade piece!
I made one set for my son, the one with the stained top. His friends liked it so much and kept borrowing his set, that he wanted to surprise them with their own and asked me to build them one with the LSU colors. Thought they turned out great! Thank you for the plans!
Thu, 02/09/2023 - 09:40
These look fabulous, ove the paint/stain job! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks to Ana White we learned how to make these cubbies. The wood for the stained bench is from trees milled from my husband’s family farm.
This pedestal base for the washer and dryer really created the perfect opportunity to organize and declutter our tiny laundry room. Had to resize it a bit to fit the space but it turned out perfect! I added a super easy top for an even counter space and bought some stock laundry room cabinets to sit in the back for extra storage. Such an upgrade!
This was the first time I ever built anything - before this is hardly used a drill. It was big for a first build, and I did it entirely alone aside from a few text messages with questions. I added a couple little end tables to it for a book and a drink, and it’s now my favourite outside summer spot.
Facebook user @robyn.marie.3572
UPDATE: For everyone that was asking to see additional photos, I have uploaded them all to flickr. Here is the link: HERE Since doing this table I have built probably 15 more just like this one and developed a much better process then in the pictures above. If you have any questions or want to chat about it further shoot me a comment or email at [email protected].
I had originally seen this table on the Pottery Barn website. My wife and I really liked it but couldn't afford to pay the $1200 bucks after tax and shipping. it didn't look to difficult to build so I decided to give it a shot. The wood for the top of the table was almost 3in thick 4.5in wide and 51in long. It was wood from an old pallet that was used to transport a very large air handler. Very heavy dense wood. Since the lengths were only 51 inches I opted to put 2 horizontal pieces on either side to extend the total length to approx 70in. I was inspired by the plans for the benchwright table that I saw on this site but chose to deviate from the plans on here to make it as close to the real thing as possible. I also happen to have access to very thick pieces of hardwood. The only thing I had to buy at lowes were the legs. The legs are 4x4 Douglas fir posts. The top pieces were all glued and screwed together. The ends were also done this way but had a very large lag bolt that held them together to match the pottery barn table. This was originally very rough wood so anything to help get the warp out was used. The legs are set at a 10 degree angle and the table stand 30 in tall. The hardest part of this table was finding the turnbuckle and the threaded rods so it could officially be 99% like the pottery barn table. I also had no idea how hard it was to find left hand threaded anything. I ended up finding everything I need at McMaster.com and my local Fastenal store. To make the brackets that went on either side of the rods i simply bought a piece of 1/8 sheet metal at my local Home depot and cut it to size. They also sold hammered brown paint which gave the metal a worked old look. Once this was all constructed I used two heavy coats of wood conditioner to seal the wood. This was the key to getting the color I wanted. It tells you on the can not to let the wood conditioner dry on the wood but if it does, when you apply the stain you get a 100% consistent color. Worked wonders. It almost felt like I was cheating. I used a water based condition and stained it with rustoleums "dark walnut" stain. Finished it with 5 coats of minwax semi gloss. I only did 5 coats because I was brushing it on and had trouble getting the bubbles out of it. In the final picture it looks much shinier then it is in person. The last picture of when it was still in my garage is a better indication of the final finish. I have a boat load of additional picture, so if you have any questions or want to see more pictures of how it was constructed, shoot me a message. Thanks!
Sat, 05/19/2012 - 22:40
This is incredible. I mean really, really incredible. I cant wait to see what you build next!
Sun, 05/20/2012 - 08:16
I've had trouble with bubbles too... I have two pieces of advice for your next bubble-free project...
1. Get a sprayer. Seriously.
2. If you don't get a sprayer, use the foam pad-brushes for your final layer of poly. Put the last layer on thick and use the largest side of the brush (the side) and lay it down over the wood and drag it slowly accross with the whole large surface on the wood. If it is soaked in poly it will lay it down smooth with little if any bubbles, keep the surface you're working on flat, and after you've finished that, just make sure you clean up any edges where the poly may have dripped down. Last step, when it's almost dry, use 600 grit sandpaper to VERY lightly smooth out any little bumbs, which will come off more like paste than dust. But really, you should just get a sprayer. :)
In reply to Bubbles... by Bunnie1978
Sun, 05/20/2012 - 17:42
Hey Bunnie,
Thanks for the tips! I completely agree with you about the sprayer. I do actually have a sprayer but didn't want to get the garage covered in over spray. Maybe one of these days I will get ambitious and apply another coat. :)
Sun, 05/20/2012 - 09:35
This is awesome! Can you give more direction as to which specific items you got at mcmaster.com and Fastenal?
Also, how did you attach the sheet metal pieces? If you have any more pictures of the underside (frame) of the table, I'd love to see them!
Thank you very much, and again, this is spectacular. We want to try to build this, too.
Great job!
In reply to This is awesome! Can you give by SawgrassHomeGirl
Mon, 05/21/2012 - 09:23
See my comments below...
Sun, 05/20/2012 - 10:38
Love it! This project turned out great and I love how you tracked down the hardware - that finishes it off perfectly!
Like SawgrassHomeGirl, I'm wondering what the actual names of the items are that you tracked down. I went and paged through the McMaster and Fastenal sites, but since I'm completely unfamiliar with mechanical doodads I'm not even sure which categories to look under.
Fantastic job! Thanks for posting this!
Sun, 05/20/2012 - 18:13
Thank you for the nice comments. This was my first official project so I am happy that it turned out well!
Sure! I'd be happy to know the names of the hardware items. At Mcmaster.com the turnbuckle I purchased was Item number 30045T44 . It is about 6in long and seemed to fit nicely with the length of the table. the rods were just simply threaded rods which I purchased at fastenal since we have a few of their stores in town. The rods come in 6 ft pieces so I didn't want to have to pay the shipping. If you don't have a Fastenal near by here are the item numbers for the rods; 90322A220 -right hand threaded rod and 95625A160 - left hand threads. They are a bit more expensive at mcmaster though.
The biggest thing I was worried about was that the entire rod had threads on it so I was worried that it would look odd. But after getting it painted you don't even notice that it isn't just a solid pipe.
Sawgrass: shoot me your email address and I'll send you some more pictures. This site only allows me to post 5 additional photos. But to elaborate on the frame and the metal pieces, I didn't' really build a frame for it. You can essentially break it down into two pieces: Top and the legs. Instead of building a frame and screwing the pieces down on it, I opted to screw each of the pieces together using a Kreg tool and also glue them. the wood was heavy enough to support everything without an elaborate internal structure. The two end pieces help keep things from warping. The only reinforcement I did for the top was to take 3 2x4's and screw them horizontally on the underside. You will be able to see all of this in the pictures. As for the metal pieces, i drilled 5 holes in each piece. 4 holes for the screws that hold it to the leg region and one half inch hole in the middle for the rod to go through. I have a bunch of close ups of this process so you should be able to get a very good idea of how things work. Overall I tried to keep everything as simple as possible.
Thanks for all the interest and if anyone has anymore questions please don't hesitate to ask!
Tue, 05/22/2012 - 09:01
Thank you so much for taking the time to answer our questions! You did a fantastic job on this table and I am adding it to my ever-growing list of projects to do!
Now I'm off to find that hardware. :-)
Thanks, again!
Fri, 11/08/2013 - 06:33
My e-mail is [email protected]
My husband is making this table for Thanksgiving dinner. We are expecting 14 people so he is making the table a total of 12 feet long! Any input or pictures will be greatly appreciated!
Lisa and Gary Peters
Angola, IN
In reply to More information please! by lillylamp
Fri, 11/08/2013 - 08:13
Hey Lisa,
Check your email. 12ft long! I think you'll have to edit the build a little from my design but if you have any questions about the pictures please let me know and i'll be happy to help you out!
Thanks!
Tue, 05/22/2012 - 16:58
So i wanna build this table this summer, could you shoot me some more pictures of the designs and actual steps for building it. i absolutely love it, and i hope mine comes out as good as yours!
In reply to Love this table by Destiny (not verified)
Thu, 05/24/2012 - 10:59
Sure will, what is your email address?
Thu, 02/28/2013 - 18:35
Hey Nathan can you send more the steps also of how you build the table and any difference between the Ana White steps.
In reply to Pottery Barn Table by Jay Daniel
Wed, 04/10/2013 - 13:54
Hey Jay,
I didn't really follow the plans listed, I just kind of built things as I went. So i don't have anything that I can send you. However, I'd be happy to answer any questions you might have about any part of it.
Thanks Jay
Thu, 02/28/2013 - 18:35
Hey Nathan can you send me the steps also of how you built the table and any difference between the Ana White steps.
Sat, 05/26/2012 - 13:13
This has been on my to do list for a while now, but I haven't been able to work out the hardware details like you did. I would love to get some more pictures especially of the underside and of your rod to stretcher connection. Thanks again and you did an amazing job!
In reply to Awesome table! by Robert (not verified)
Mon, 11/04/2013 - 13:30
Hey Robert,
Here is a link to the rest of the pictures:
Sat, 05/26/2012 - 17:54
I love this table! I am new to this site and to building, but I want this to be my first project. Could you possibly email me the detailed pics and plans also so I can get started? :) Thanks so much!
Sat, 05/26/2012 - 18:07
Sorry, I forgot to sign in before I submitted my post. I posted the above post as Aubrey but this is my username so you can contact me.
Thanks Again.
In reply to Love the table!! by Aubrey (not verified)
Mon, 11/04/2013 - 13:30
Thanks! If you have any question please ask away!
Tue, 05/29/2012 - 18:41
I am really inspired by the table you built. It looks like you built your legs with 4x4s. Did you drill through them to get the notch on the outside or did you do something else just to get the look? Great work!
In reply to Amazing Table by ajmccallister
Tue, 05/29/2012 - 20:58
Hi Aj,
Yes, I did use 4x4's for the legs. It was much easier this way, did a great job achieving the heavy look I was interested in and was the closest I could come to the pottery barn table. To answer you question, no I did not drill through. I attached the 2x4 cross member with 2 leg screws from the outside of the 4x4 leg. I then cut a small piece of the 2x4 and nailed it over the lag screw holes to simulate the 2x4 cross member coming through. It looks just like I cut a hole and the whole thing is coming through. I get asked how I did it by people that see it in person because it doesn't look like a separate piece is just nailed on.
If you look at IMAG0306 and IMAG0308 on flickr you can see what it looks like without them on and if you look at the bottom left hand corner of the picture you can see the pieces that have been cut and not put on yet.
In reply to Cost? by Sara (not verified)
Mon, 06/11/2012 - 11:01
The Lower portion was probably about $200. The biggest expense was the threaded rods and the turnbuckle. The rods were about $30 each and the turnbuckle after shippping was about $20. The wood for the lefts and cross members were purchased at my local lowes so they were pretty cheap. As for the top, its hard to say since wood prices vary quite a bit between types and thickness. If you were to buy wood like I used you would probably have to visit a sawmill and see if you could get rough cut wood that is at least 2.5 inches thick. I would estimate $300 give or take. If you follow the plans that ana has setup for the top you don't necessarily need to get wood that is that thick. You can achieve close to the same look but just using 3/4 in pieces. I think if you look very closely at the pottery barn pictures, they do not use 100% solid wood either. But I wanted the heavy look and the solid appearance. So total you are probably looking at $500-$600. Hope this helps!
Wed, 06/20/2012 - 11:28
Great job Nathan - I appreciate your workmanship on the table. You've answered one of my questions regarding the look of the cross member protuding thru the leg - slick idea. My other question - why all the large round holes in the bottom of the table? By the way, the dowel effect that you accomplished really pops. I too like the looks of the thicker boards. Thanks for posting an interesting and comprehensive article. Curt
In reply to Benchright Farmhouse Table by Curt (not verified)
Thu, 06/21/2012 - 13:06
Those holes in the bottom of the table were there when the wood was salvaged. This was a pallet so they had it bolted together with large lag bolts. The bolts had large washers inset into the wood. The bolts were secured on the underside of the wood and went through every piece. Luckily, they were consistent and only bolted from one side.
Thanks!
Tue, 07/10/2012 - 06:36
Thank you, Nathan, that really helps! Did I mention your table is beautiful?
Fri, 08/03/2012 - 12:53
Hi Nathan,
Awesome table. I just hope I can find some 3" thick lumber without breaking the bank! It looks like you attached the legs by putting 2 bolts through the legs into the small apron on the short ends of the table. It also looks like you might have also put in some pocket holes on the inside of the legs, going straight down into the underneath of the table boards. Is that right? I am just wondering how sturdy it is, since it's such a heavy table.
Thanks!
Lea
In reply to Attaching Legs by leabea28
Mon, 08/06/2012 - 11:43
Yes, you are correct. I attached the legs with 2, 6inch lag bolts. I pre-drilled them at the correct angle (which I eye balled) and ratcheted them in. I was a little worried about them being sturdy enough so I went ahead and made a few pocket holes and secured it that was also. The legs overall are very sturdy. The table probably weights 150-200lbs and I was able to pick up one side of it only holding onto one leg. Table doesn't wobble at all. The cross member holding the legs together also helped pull everything together.
Thanks for the question! Feel free to ask any others!
Nathan
Sun, 08/12/2012 - 18:17
Fantastic table! Thanks for posting all the instructions and places to buy hardware. My husband and I can't wait to try this!
Sun, 08/12/2012 - 18:19
Fantastic table! Thanks for posting all the instructions and places to buy hardware. My husband and I can't wait to try this!
Fri, 08/24/2012 - 09:33
Nice work! I made bench seats in this style - maybe I'll post pics sometime too! I saw in your description that you used thick wood to be more like the original... just wanted to let you know that I have seen the "original" and yours is much better! Pottery barn does NOT use solid 3" wood for the top. If you look closely at the pics in their online catalog you can even tell... they use thin planks with a side piece to make them look thick. The only hefty piece is on the very end .
Also, I wanted to mention that I have had great luck with wipe-on polyurethane... never any bubbles. Just be sure to use lint free cloths and lots of thin layers.
Again, nice work!
In reply to Better than the "real" PB Benchwright by 3RaysofSunshine
Fri, 08/24/2012 - 09:54
Thanks for the nice comments!
Did you apply the poly with a brush or with a cloth?
Fri, 08/24/2012 - 10:05
I apply with a cloth. It takes many coats but they are so thin they dry fast. In between coats, I wet sand with 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper. After towel drying, I run my hand across the surface. You'll feel any spots you missed. Then use a tack cloth to pick up any dust (there's always some...) I get a perfect finish using this method. I'm sure spraying is great too... I just like not having another piece of equipment to clean!
My last project (a patio table) I had run out of the wipe-on poly and decided to use something else - whatever I had on hand. Grr! Not nearly as nice looking so I'm doing it over. I'll post pictures of a few projects as soon as I can figure out how.
Sun, 11/18/2012 - 21:15
Why cant my husband make stuff......booooooooo! Wonderful table I am so jealous lol.
Fri, 01/04/2013 - 07:37
This is a great Table! I'd love to build something like this. Good Job!
In reply to Amazed by Shannan with an A
Tue, 04/23/2013 - 10:23
Thanks for the comment! Glad you like it :)
Thu, 05/02/2013 - 10:52
Hi! Just wondering what tool(s) you used to cut the sheet metal and drill the holes in it.
Thanks.
Lea
In reply to sheet metal cutting by leabea28
Thu, 05/02/2013 - 15:04
Hey Lea,
It was only 1/8 in thick metal so a simple jig saw with a metal bit worked great. Wear eye protection though. It shoots off all sorts of hot metal bits. To drill the holes I just used a power drill with a metal bit. Make sure you drill 100% straight or the bit will bind and jerk the drill right out of your hand. Ideally, a drillpress would work much better since I nearly broke my wrist on the second large hole.
Let me know if you have any other questions!
Thanks,
Sat, 06/01/2013 - 20:36
The table looks awesome man! Love it. I just got done building the benchright table to Ana Whites plan, see mine here http://ana-white.com/2013/05/farmhouse-benchright-table-build-0
I just ordered the left hand threaded rod, right hand threaded rod and turnbuckle from McMaster.com...total cost for all 3 was 22 bucks. Here are the McMaster part numbers:
90036A033- left hand rod
98841A033- right hand rod
30045T44- galvanized turnbuckle
I'll hopefully get the rods and turnbuckle this week so I can totally complete this project.
Again, awesome job nathan!!!
In reply to Very nice job, nathan!! by tcoche
Fri, 11/14/2014 - 05:06
I saw your listing for the parts number, thank you. I was wondering, these are galvanized parts....how are they being made dark for the finished product?
Fri, 06/28/2013 - 10:52
Please, PLEASE send me the plans on how to build this table. Yours turned out great!
Thu, 07/11/2013 - 12:55
I'd love to if I had plans. I kind of just built this as I went. Feel free to ask any questions though if you aren't sure where to start or your stuck somewhere.
Thanks!
We followed the plans for the A-frame chicken coop very closely, and then modified it a bit at the end.
1. Trim was added to two doors on each side, as suggested. They are secured with latches at the top, more to keep them from falling open than to keep critters from getting in. We used 2x4x10's instead of 2x4x8's on the middle horizontal rail, giving us foot-long handles on each side. My husband and I are able to move the coop about 15 feet at a time, which is pretty good considering it is STURDY!
2. We used 1/2" galvanized hardware cloth instead of chicken wire, as suggested by one commenter (and lots of others in blogland).
3. I cut 1/4" plywood to fit the loft space and coated it with vinyl stick-on tile. This should make it easier to clean. We didn't screw down the plywood, so if we have to, we can remove it to hose it off/scrub it.
4. I cut a triangle of plywood to make an egg door at the end of the roost. It hinges at the bottom (with a 2x4 ripped into a 1x4 to cover the hardware cloth and provide a mounting spot for hinges) and latches at the top. I plan to use cotter pins or something to secure the latch. There is also a piece of untreated 1x4 held in place with tabs at the egg door to prevent bedding from falling out once it's converted to the nesting box (I'm planning to get pullets, not ready to lay yet, so they won't even have a tempting nest box)
5. There was no bottom door in the plans (to allow free-ranging), so I cut a piece of 2x4 to make a triangle against the bottom (same size as the egg door). It folds out (just like the egg door) and will allow the chickens easy access to the yard. We do have hawks in our neighborhood so free time will always be supervised. We also have a dog (who I coaxed into the coop for the main picture, haha!) who will need supervising. She's been around chickens before but you never know what will make her turn on them!
6. There was also no roost in the plans (although if you look at Ana's coop, there is a 2x4 across the middle of the side walls). I had a leftover closet rod, so I mounted that in the covered section parallel to the ladder. The ladder was shifted to the side. For the ladder, I just used a piece of cedar fencing and cut 2 48" dowels into 4 pieces each, and secured those with screws from the underside. I hope my chickens will be able to get up the ladder!
7. I also made a tube feeder from PVC and a dog bowl, and am working on a nipple waterer. Will update post when those are finished!
Now I just have to get some hens! I've been searching craigslist and can't wait!
Thu, 09/20/2012 - 19:31
I really like the addition of the roosting bar and how you made the ladder. Your little chickens will be so happy! Good luck!
We have been looking for a deal on an outdoor sectional for a whole year. Nothing. The cheapest we could find was $899 for one that was much smaller than this one and with thinner cushions. So we upped and drove to the lumber yard and purchased the lumber on the list and got to building. The total cost of lumber was $200, the Spax screws we already had on hand. We used pocket holes for the joints. The wife made the cushions herself. She had most of the fabric on hand, we just had to buy 3 yards for the back cushions, which are made of standard size pillows. They have been sprayed with fabric protectant for outdoor use (I think she used the Scotch brand). The seat cushions are 5 inches thick (they are wrapped in silk film to protect them from getting soaked when it rains or when someone who just got out of the pool sits on them), around $100 for both. It took her a couple of days to sew the box cushion covers.
I followed the plan exactly including the suggestion of the fence paint (2 coats). This was a very easy build. It took much longer to paint than it did to build. These boxes are the perfect accent on our new patio/firepit.
We found your great plans and site online. My son, Michael made 6 Garden Benches for his Eagle Scout Service Project and donated them to the local Master Gardener’s Association.
They turned out beautiful!
Thank you for sharing your plans. We’re looking forward to building more of your projects!
The Taylors
My wrist has not taken well to the work at home requirement of the pandemic. So, I decided to replace my desk with a similar one that I have at work. Only, this one is much prettier.
Essentially, I built two desks using the farmhouse desk plans. One of them I made less wide than the plans by simply making the horizontal pieces 36" instead of the plan's 47 1/2".
For the middle portion of the corner desk , I based it off of the Office Corner Desktop plans. I made just the middle portion for those plans, but made the edges 46" instead of 38" for a deeper desk as well as to allow more room for my legs not to hit the uprights of the farmhouse desks. I made the corner desktop detachable, so it was easier to fit down the stairs to the office, using some small ~2" cubes placed on the bottom. They just serve to keep the desktop from moving around on the frame. The base of the middle portion I made up using the same ideas used to create the farmhouse desk frames.
I made plenty of mistakes along the way as I'm a software engineer, not a carpenter. I think next time I'll buy a miter saw, most of these cuts were by hand and aren't as straight as I'd like them to be. But, I like to work with my hands and this has made my day job less painful while I'm working from home.
4' x 4' x 32" planter boxes perfect for square footage gardening. Added pre-made trellis to back for tomatoes and melons/cucumbers. Had to use pressure- treated 4x4 for legs but wrapped them in plastic so not near the soil. 4" lag screws holding just fine with 5 horizontal strapping bars on bottom and 1 vertical 2x4.
I spent a lot of time looking at photos that my wife tagged on pinterest, most from builders who frequent Ana's site. I learned a lot just from looking.
I stole particular ideas from Ana, Tommie and Ellie, and another site that I can't find right now, but they really did the trestle / farmhouse hybrid idea first and I just modified their idea a bit. If anyone has seen their site, please remind me so I can give credit where it is due!
I didn't really use a plan other than having a general idea of what I wanted the size of the table to be. I believe it came out to about 102" x 44"
I built 6 chairs and the bench.
All is built out of construction grade lumber, and gets lots of compliments.
The table came together in a solid weekend, the bench took a couple of evenings, and the chairs...those chairs took forever to cut out, shape, assemble, and finish.
Mon, 02/02/2015 - 18:15
Wow these are so great! Beautifully built, and your finish looks flawless! You have a dining room that will last for generations! Love it!
Tue, 03/07/2023 - 12:47
Truly an inspiration for when we are to the point of building our table. Thank you for sharing.
We built this in early 2013. We ended up turning the house 90 degrees on the deck, because the slide worked best off the backside of the deck due to the various heights around the deck. The sloped back yard caused some challenges, but in the end it's a very sturdy deck with the cross beams attached. Thanks for posting these plans online for us, our 3 daughters are loving the playhouse and swingset! Here are some more pics of the project: http://www.flickr.com/photos/11031534@N00/sets/72157633009259873/
Fri, 03/22/2013 - 16:39
Love this - my grandson's back yard is too small to build something like this; which is why we had to settle for his loft bed airport/clubhouse.
Thu, 06/27/2013 - 05:24
I'm planning on building two A-Frames and no playhouse, so my questions are focused there.
Did you do any modifications to swing portion of the plans?
Is it sturdy enough for an adult to swing on as well?
It looks like you put the posts in the ground, did you cement them in too?
How high off the ground is the bottom of the support beam for the swing?
Is there any issue side-to-side swaying?
Comments
Ana White Admin
Tue, 10/05/2021 - 09:23
So sweet!
That is amazing and what a great way to spend time with your father:) Thank you for sharing!